Yuletide Mandala

This mandala design was inspired by the Yuletide Blanket, and the pattern follows a very similar construction with a few little adjustments. I used Stylecraft Special DK yarn left over from making the blanket, and followed the same colour order, but you could use any DK weight yarn you like - mandalas are a great way to explore colour combinations.

There are 13 rounds in total, and you can choose as many or as few colours as you like.

Use whichever hook size suits your yarn and crochet tension (I used a 4.5 mm with Stylecraft Special DK)

The finished mandala measures approx. 23cm across.

I've created this tutorial to help you with each round of this pattern, but if you don't need the photos and would just like a written pattern, you can download a PDF by clicking on the following link >>

❂ DOWNLOAD YULETIDE MANDALA PDF PATTERN ❂

Before we begin with the Yuletide Mandala pattern, I thought it would be helpful to chat a little bit about crocheting circles, in particular how to close a round so that you create a neat join, and how to recognise the anatomy of a treble stitch so that you make sure you are putting your hook in the right place each time. It can be very easy to add in an extra stitch by mistake  - circular patterns need to follow an accurate stitch count for the maths to work out - we need to avoid adding in stitches that shouldn't be there! 

Lets start by looking at the anatomy of a treble crochet stitch. In the photo above, I've illustrated the two parts of a treble. The vertical twisted part of the stitch is called the post, and the chain at the top is called the loop.

Note that the loop of a stitch always sits directly to the right of the post (shown above in red) - it really helps to learn how to see a stitch in this way so that you can count your stitches accurately, and more importantly so you know which loop to stick your hook into.

A top tip when working a circular pattern is to change the starting point with each round (unless the pattern tells you otherwise). This way you avoid having all your starting chain-3's stacked on top of each other (which can look a bit messy and creates a bit of a "seam") and also you avoid any bulkiness from darning in your ends all in one place.

Now have a look at the photo above - the arrow is pointing to the top of the chain-3 which is where the previous green round was joined with a slip stitch. Often the joining process can open up the chain and make it look like a stitch - it should be ignored!! My needle is showing you the next real stitch which is a nice neat loop, and your hook should go in here to make the next treble.....

.....see above? You don't want to crochet into the top of the chain-3 by accident, as this will be adding in an extra stitch which you don't want.

My other top tip is to do with closing a round neatly with a slip stitch into the top of a chain-3. Make sure that when you create your slip stitch you don't pull the final stitch tight - leave the loop of the stitch fully formed (I've pointed an arrow to it in the above photo). This loop will be part of the stitch count for the next round and you will need to insert your hook into it, so make sure you can see it and count it as a stitch.

I hope that helps, especially if you are new to crochet.

Right....on with the Yuletide Mandala.....

I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

Spike = a treble crochet worked into the skipped stitch two rows below the current one, drawing the loop up to the height of the current working row (note :: this is equivalent to a US dc spike stitch)

If you don't need any step-by-step photos, you can click on the following link to download/print a PDF pattern for the Yuletide Mandala >>

 

Round 1 – Tomato (tr round)

Chain 4; slip stitch in 1st chain to form a ring;

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 11 tr into ring; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. DO NOT fasten off. [12 sts]

Round 2 – continue with Tomato (tr round)

Slip stitch into the next stitch to anchor your yarn in the correct place; chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same stitch; *2 tr in next stitch;

Repeat from * ten more times; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning ch-3 to close round. Fasten off. [24 sts]

A few notes about Round 3, which is made of groups of 2-trebles, with skipped stitches in between. When you pass over the joining point, remember what I said about the top of that chain-3. You can see in the above photo that it really does look like it's inviting you to count it as a stitch - IGNORE IT!!! You are skipping the next stitch here, and inserting your hook where my needle is - it might feel like you are leaving a big gap, but it'll work out.....

 

....do you see?? Once you go ahead and make your next stitch, that pesky chain-3 loop will stop shouting at you. Be on your guard!!

Ok, on with the pattern for this round.....

A note about Round 3 which is a 2-tr round. We will be adding a chain-1 in between each group of 2-tr. This is different to the Yuletide blanket pattern.

Round 3 – Claret (2-tr round)

Join yarn in any stitch.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same stitch; skip 1 stitch; chain 1;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip 1 stitch; chain 1;

Repeat from * ten more times; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [12 x 2-tr]

A note about Round 4, which is a spike stitch round. This is slightly different to the Yuletide Blanket pattern in that you are going to make TWO spike stitches in the skipped stitch two rounds below (see photo above). 

So you will be crocheting 1 tr in the centre space between the 2-tr group, and two tr-spikes in the skipped stitch two rounds below.

OK, on with the pattern for Round 4....

Round 4 – Gold (spike round)

Join yarn in centre space between 2-tr.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 2 spikes in the next skipped stitch two rows below;

*1 tr in next centre space between 2-tr; 2 spikes in the next skipped stitch two rows below;

Repeat from *ten more times; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [36 sts]

A note about Round 5 which is a treble round. We will be making increases in this round to keep the circle sitting flat and not turning into a bowl. Count carefully!

Round 5 – Sage (tr round)

Join yarn in any stitch.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same stitch; 1 tr in next stitch;

*2 tr in next stitch; 1 tr in next stitch;

Repeat from * around the circle; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [54 sts]

Round 6 – Gingerbread (2-tr round)

Join yarn in any stitch.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same stitch; skip 1 stitch; chain 1;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip 1 stitch; chain 1;

Repeat from * around the circle; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [27 x 2-tr]

A note about Round 7 which is a spike stitch round. Unlike Round 4, this time we will work single spiked trebles into the skipped stitches two rounds below.

Round 7 – Lipstick (spike round)

Join yarn in centre space between 2-tr.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 spike in the next skipped stitch two rows below;

*1 tr in next centre space between 2-tr; 1 spike in the next skipped stitch two rows below;

Repeat from * round the circle; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [54 sts]

A note about the spike stitch rounds - when you've completed a spike stitch round, flip the mandala over to the reverse and check how your trebles are looking. Can you see in the above photo, my trebles have separated and it's all looking a bit bumpy and uneven? All you need to do is give the spike stitch round a little tug outwards to pull each stitch back into place and close up those bumpy gaps.....

....there, that's better! This round should sit nice and flat now.

Round 8 – Teal (tr round)

Join yarn in any stitch.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same stitch; 1 tr in each of the next 2 stitches;

*2 tr in next stitch; 1 tr in each of the next 2 stitches;

Repeat from * around the circle; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [72 sts]

Round 9 – Kelly Green (2-tr round)

Join yarn in any stitch.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same stitch; skip 1 stitch; chain 1;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip 1 stitch; chain 1;

Repeat from * around the circle; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [36 x 2-tr]

Round 10 – Claret (spike round)

Join yarn in centre space between 2-tr.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 spike in the next skipped stitch two rows below;

*1 tr in next centre space between 2-tr; 1 spike in the next skipped stitch two rows below;

Repeat from * round the circle; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [72 sts]

Round 11 – Burgundy (tr round)

Join yarn in any stitch.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same stitch; 1 tr in each of the next 2 stitches;

*2 tr in next stitch; 1 tr in each of the next 2 stitches;

Repeat from * around the circle; slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off. [96 sts]

A note about Round 12 which is a dc round. Try and keep your tension/stitches nice and even and don't let them pull too tight. If you wish, you can go up a hook size to make sure this round sits nice and flat.

Round 12 – Lipstick (dc round)

Join yarn in any stitch.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc in each stitch around; slip stitch into 2^nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close round. DO NOT fasten off. [96 sts]

Round 13 – continue with Lipstick (scallop edge)

Slip stitch into the next stitch to anchor your yarn in the correct place; chain 1; 

Skip 1 stitch; 4 tr in next stitch; chain 1; skip 1 stitch;

*Slip stitch in next stitch; chain 1; skip 1 stitch; 4 tr in next stitch; chain 1; skip 1 stitch;

Repeat from * around the circle; slip stitch into beginning chain-1 to close round. Fasten off. [24 scallops]

.

And that's it!!

Your mandala should be in good shape and sitting flat - we want to avoid any bowls or ruffles!

You can give it a light steam if you wish - always do this on the reverse, use a cool/warm iron and hover the iron above the surface of the crochet to puff out steam for just a few seconds. Never let the iron touch the crochet, and don't over-steam or over heat or you will kill your crochet.

As I mentioned earlier, mandalas are a great project to experiment with colour combinations, so do enjoy having a play. If you want to know more about the colours in the pale mandala shown above, you can find them listed in ((this post))

If you'd like to make your mandala slightly smaller, you can do this by following the pattern up to Round 8 (this is a treble round, and the stitch count should be a multiple of 4). You can then follow the instructions for rounds 12 and 13 to create the scallop edging. In the above photo, the Yuletide mandala on the left is 13 rounds and measures 23cm, and the one on the right it 10 rounds and measures 18cm.

If you would like to download/print a PDF of the Yuletide Mandala pattern, please click on the following link >>

❂ DOWNLOAD YULETIDE MANDALA PDF PATTERN ❂

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Comments

[IsobelA]

I'm making this and am really confused by round 4. It says to put 2 spike stitches in the next skipped stitch two rows below (i.e. into row 2). But, there are no skipped stitches in row 2? Row 2 is 24 TC in 2 TC clusters. Do you mean between the 2 TC clusters?

[Lee]

Thank you for the tutorial as well as the pattern! I've struggled for years with my circles not coming out right, and this explains why.

[Sherril]

I truly enjoy your colorful posts & look forward to each project. There is something so easy & calming about crochet. It is a skill my grandmother taught me 44 years ago and it still serves as my down-time therapy after the workday of managing a medical office. Your eye for color & the way you create patterns are such a great talent & the tutorials are so easy to follow. Even if I’m not in a stitching mood, your posts are a treat to read & simply appreciate all the fabulous photos. As you share your everyday joy, I find myself also being thankful for the ordinary things—my daily COFFEE being at the top of the list! Please know how grateful all of your fellow hookers (Ha!Ha!) around the world are that you allow us to share your passion. Blessings & Love from Texas.💗

[karen]

Thank you so much for the tutorial and pattern. I might just have the couage to try and crochet something other than rowws or squares.

[Kendall Toewe]

I love your tutorials, you illustrate so clearly, and your creativity is so inspiring! I could not, however, follow your step 1 and come to the stitch count you listed. Can you explain to me where I am misunderstanding?
You start with a 4 chain loop, good so far. Next you say to chain 3, counting it as the first treble, and then to make 3 tr. in the ring then to slip stitch to first ch 3; it seems to me to be only 4 stitches rather than your listed 12 (which clearly show in the photo so I know I am wrong. Help, and many thanks!

[Dawn]

Thank you for the details on joining, so helpful. I always seem to have trouble when I'm crocheting rounds.