Yuletide Blanket

I designed the Yuletide blanket as a cosy, colourful winter blanket to be used in the home during the festive season. It's a blanket I imagine draped over the back of a sofa, or folded up on the arm of your favourite chair ready for you to wrap up warm as you watch a film or sit quietly to read. 

The design was inspired by the colours, scents and tastes of the Yuletide season - oranges, gingerbread, spices and mulled wine. Candlelight, fairy lights and a crackling open fire. Pine, holly, ivy, eucalyptus and berries. This blanket will bring cosy comfort and colour to your home – a warm hug on a cold night!

I wrote a blog post all about my Yuletide blanket  and you can read it by clicking on the following link :

YULETIDE TA-DAH BLOG POST

MATERIALS

For my blankets I use Stylecraft Special DK which is a 100% premium acrylic yarn. It's lovely to work with, comes in generous 100g balls and the finished blankets are warm, soft and machine washable. 

I've chosen 12 shades for my Yuletide blanket, adding 3 additional balls of my favourite colours (Lipstick, Claret, Kelly Green) to make 15 x 100g in total. This is enough to make a blanket measuring approximately 150cm / 5ft square (or 120cm x 180cm single bed size if you wish to create a striped blanket from the Yuletide yarn pack)

MATERIALS

Top row :

♥ Burgundy ♥ Tomato ♥ Gingerbread ♥ Bottle ♥ 

Middle row :

♥ Claret x 2 ♥ Gold ♥ Cypress ♥ Teal ♥ 

Bottom row :

♥ Lipstick  x 2 ♥ Camel ♥ Sage ♥ Kelly Green x 2 ♥ 

YULETIDE YARN PACK*

* the yarn pack contains an 8 page full colour A4 printed pattern

HOOK SIZE  and TENSION

The standard hook size for Stylecraft Special DK yarn is 4mm. However, it's a good idea to be familiar with your own personal tension and experiment with moving to a larger or smaller hook to achieve a neat result. If you crochet loosely you can reduce your hook size to 3.5mm. Similarly, if your tension tends to feel quite tight, you can increase your hook size to 4.5mm or 5mm to achieve the correct size square. 

SIZE

After completing the first six rounds of the Yuletide blanket, your square should measure approx. 12 cm square. It wants to feel quite compact, not too floppy or holey. As mentioned above, you can change your hook size to achieve the correct gauge.

PATTERN NOTES

The Yuletide blanket is worked as a giant square. There are 78 rounds in total, plus an additional 7 rounds which make up the border. This is an easy pattern to change the size - to make it smaller, simply stop when you've had enough! You can also make the blanket bigger than 150cm square by continuing the pattern repeats and adding additional rounds if you wish - you will need to purchase extra yarn to make a bigger sized blanket.

The square is created by repeating three different pattern rounds which are indicated on the worksheet to help you keep  track.

tr = this is a simple treble round, easy peasy.

2-tr = this is where you create little pairs of tr stitches (which resemble a V shape) with skipped stitches in between.

spike = this is a treble crochet worked into the skipped stitch two rows below the current one, drawing the loop up to the height of the current working row.

I've created a PDF Worksheet which you can download listing the colour sequence along with the pattern note for each round to help you stay on track.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD COLOUR WORKSHEET

COLOUR NAMES

A little reminder that you get to know the colour names so that you can identify them correctly when reading the worksheets! The colour name is printed on the yarn ball band. Before you whip the paper labels off your yarn balls, please make sure you take a little snip of yarn and record it's name.

YULETIDE PATTERN

This pattern uses basic stitches to create a pretty stripe with a subtle surface texture. Each stripe is crocheted in two rows. I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :

dc [double crochet] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

2-tr :: two treble crochets worked into the same stitch

Spike [Treble Crochet Spike Stitch] :: a treble crochet worked into the skipped stitch two rows below the current one, drawing the loop up to the height of the current working row (note :: this is equivalent to a US dc spike stitch)

NOTE : This pattern is written as a photo-heavy tutorial to help beginners or those who like visual guidance. If you are an experienced hookster, you can jump to the end of the tutorial where a traditional pattern is written out for you to copy/paste into a word document and print if you wish. Please, please make sure you take note of the sizing info and measure your square after the first six rounds to check your gauge.

Round 1 : use Tomato yarn 

Chain 4; slip stitch in 1^st chain to form a ring.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 2 tr into ring; chain 1;

*3 tr into ring; chain 1;

Repeat from * twice more so that you have 4 x three-tr groups in total.

Slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 2 : use Claret yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour (as shown above).

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 2 tr in same space;

Skip 1 stitch; 2 tr in the next stitch shown by my needle above; skip 1 stitch;

*(2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) in chain-1 space; skip 1 stitch; 2 tr in next stitch; skip 1 stitch;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first chain-1 space (as shown by my needle above); slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-4 to close round. Fasten off.

And that's round 2 complete - you should have four corners, and a 2-tr stitch in the centre of each side.

Round 3 : use Gold yarn

Insert hook into first chain-1 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour (as shown above).

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 1 tr in same space; skip next stitch; 1 tr in the space between the next 2 tr (shown by my needle in the above photo);

Skip next stitch; 1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below.

NOTE : lets talk about the spike - this is just like a normal treble crochet, so yarn over, then stick your hook into the round 1 stitch shown by my needle in the above photo. Yarn over again and pull the loop back through the stitch to the front.

Gently loosen your tension so that all three loops on your hook can be pulled up to the same level as your working row. Complete the tr spike stitch just as you would for a normal treble : yarn over and pull through two loops (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops.

You'll see in the photo above how the spike stitch looks extra long (it's sometimes called a Long Treble), but the top of the stitch is level with the normal treble crochet stitch that sits to the right of it.

Once you've made a few of these spikes I promise you it will feel very easy and natural, honest!

Ok, moving on.....

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr (as sown by my needle above);

Skip next stitch; 1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below;

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; skip next stitch;

Now work the corner turn as follows :

(1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) into the chain-1 corner space, as shown in the above photo.

Now work the second side of the square as follows :

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; skip next stitch;

*1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below; skip next stitch;

1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * once more;

Work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) into the chain-1 space to turn the corner (as shown above)

Work the third and fourth sides following the pattern as for the second side, until you arrive back to where you started.

Finish off by working a slip stitch in the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-4 (as shown by my needle above); fasten off.

And that's round 3 complete - you have four corners (1 tr; chain-1; 1 tr), and 5 stitches worked along each of the sides.

Round 4 : use Sage yarn

Insert hook into first chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour (as shown above).

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 2 tr in same space;

Locate the first stitch (shown by my needle above - NOTE this stitch likes to hide, so wiggle your corner stitches out the way and make sure you find it!)

1 tr in each of the next 7 stitches;

*(2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) in chain-1 corner space;

Locate that first stitch (don't let it hide!), then work 1 tr in each of the next 7 stitches;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first chain-1 space (as shown by my needle above); slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Yay, round 4 finished, looking cute! Ok, next colour....

Round 5: use Gingerbread yarn

Insert hook into first chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 2 tr in same space;

Skip next stitch (remember this stitch likes to hide, so make sure you find it so that you make your next stitches in the right place, as shown by my needle in the above photo);

*2 tr in next stitch; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * four more times;

Work (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) into chain-1 corner space; skip 1 stitch;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * four more times; (second side complete)

Work (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) into chain-1 corner space; skip 1 stitch;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * four more times; (third side complete)

Work (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) into chain-1 corner space; skip 1 stitch;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * four more times; (fourth side complete)

Now you're back where you started, work 1 tr into the beginning corner space, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-4 to close the round. Fasten off.

You should have four corners, and 5 pairs of 2-tr stitches along each side.

Time for some spikes now - get your hook ready!

Round 6: use Lipstick yarn

Insert hook into first chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same space; skip next stitch; 1 tr in the centre space between the next 2 tr (as shown above)

*Skip next stitch; 1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below (I've shown where the spike goes with my needle in the above photo);

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr;

Repeat from * five more times (first side complete)

*To turn the corner, work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) in the chain-1 corner space;

NOTE : if you want to do a quick stitch count at this point, you should have 13 stitches along the side, not including the corners (as shown above)

Ok, on with the second side.....

Skip next stitch; 1 tr in the centre space between the next 2 tr;

*Skip next stitch; 1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below;

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr;

Repeat from * five more times (second side complete)

To turn the corner, work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) in the chain-1 corner space;

Now continue around the third and fourth sides the same as you did for the second side, until you get back to where you started.

Slip Stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-4 to close the round. Fasten off.

This is what your Yuletide square should like life after six rounds - it's now time to measure and check your tension.

After six rounds your square should measure approximately 12cm across.

This is an approximate guide, so if it looks and feels right to you, and it's a little bigger or smaller, then you can stick with the same hook and carry on. If you are wildly out, then you should begin again with a smaller or bigger hook because your hook size can really have a dramatic effect on the finished size of the blanket and the yarn quantities used. 

To give you an idea, I crochet quite tightly, and I achieve the correct tension for this pattern with a 4.5mm hook. If you are a loose crocheter, you can switch down to a 3.5mm to tighten up your stitches a little. I hope that makes sense - it's worth playing about until you get a feel for what works, especially if you're fairly new to crochet.

From this point on you will be repeating rounds 4, 5 and 6. I labelled them in the above photos so that you get into the habit of keeping a track of which stitch pattern you're making for each round (a straight tr round, then a 2-tr round with skipped stitches, and finally the spike stitch round). 

I think the pattern is very intuitive and is easy to remember once you get going.

Two top tips from me to help you keep your stitch counts correct :

1. Always make sure you locate that first stitch which likes to hide under the corners you just made - sometimes you need to locate it to stick your hook in, and sometimes you need to find it in order to skip over it. Either way, don't miss it!

2. You'll notice that the corners on the spike stitch round are skinner then the corners on other rounds, so don't get carried away and sneak in extra trebles when you work those corners. They are just (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) instead of the usual (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) as for the other two rounds.

Round 7: Use Teal yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 4  (a straight tr round)

Round 8: Use Kelly Green yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 5 (2-tr separated by skipped stitches)

Round 9: Use Claret yarn

Repeat as for round 6 (spike stitch round)

Rounds 10-78:

Rounds 4, 5 and 6 form the pattern repeat. Follow the colour sequence listed on the worksheet - download it by clicking the following link >>

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD COLOUR WORKSHEET

When you've completed all 78 rounds (or as many as you want for the size of blanket you need), you can start on the border.

BORDER

I deliberately kept the Yuletide border very simple, using three colours - Claret, Lipstick and Kelly Green. Because there are two balls of each of these colours in the yarn pack you shouldn't have any worries about yarn quantities, even though these border rounds are going to be loooong! There are seven rounds in total, a mixture of treble rounds and smaller double crochet rounds.

Round 1: use Claret yarn

Insert hook into any chain-1 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc into each stitch along the first edge; work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the ch-1 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 dc into each stitch along the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back where you started, work 1 dc into the same space where you made your first chain-2;

Chain 2; slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Round 2: use Lipstick yarn

Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 1 tr in same space; 1 tr into each stitch along the first edge; work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 tr into each stitch along the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 tr; chain 2; 1 tr) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back where you started, slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-4 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Round 3: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 4: use Kelly Green yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 5: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 6: use Lipstick yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 2

Round 7: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 1

FINISHING

Your Yuletide blanket may well have a slightly uneven shape and will benefit from a light blocking. The best way to do this is to wash your blanket on a normal 30 degree wash, then while it’s still damp, stretch it out on a carpeted floor. Use your hands to smooth out and gently stretch the blanket onto a square shape, making sure the edges are straight and the corners are stretched out to form right angles. Pin out the corners, then leave to dry thoroughly for 24 hours before unpinning and giving the blanket a huge smooch! Blocking a blanket in this way isn’t essential so don’t worry if you don’t have the space to do it. But in my experience, blocking a whole blanket greatly improves both the shape and the drape of the finished crochet.

Here is the condensed version of the Yuletide blanket for you to copy/paste into a word document to print if you wish.

Please note that if you purchase the Yuletide yarn pack from my shop at Wool Warehouse, an eight page printed colour pattern is included.

***********************************************************************

Yuletide Blanket Pattern

Round 1 : use Tomato yarn

Chain 4; sl st in 1^st ch to form a ring.

Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 2 tr into ring; ch 1;

*3 tr into ring; ch 1;

Repeat from * twice more so that you have 4 x three-tr groups in total.

Sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 2 : use Claret yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 2 tr in same sp;

Sk 1 st; 2 tr in next st; sk 1 st;

*(2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr) in ch-1 sp; sk 1 st; 2 tr in next st; sk 1 st;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first ch-1 sp; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 3 : use Gold yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same sp; sk next st; 1 tr in the sp between the next 2 tr;

*sk next st; 1 spike in the skipped st two rows below; sk next st; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr;

Repeat from * once more

*To turn the corner, work (1 tr; ch 1; 1 tr) in the ch-1 corner sp;

sk next st; 1 tr in the sp between the next 2 tr; sk next st;

(1 spike in the skipped st two rows below; sk next st; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; sk next st) twice;

Repeat from * twice more;

Sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 4 : use Sage yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 2 tr in same sp; 1 tr in each of the next 7 sts;

*(2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr) in ch-1 sp; 1 tr in each of the next 7 sts;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first ch-1 sp; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 5: use Gingerbread yarn

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 2 tr in same sp; sk next st;

*2 tr in next st; sk next st);

Repeat from * four more times;

*(2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr) in ch-1 sp; sk next st; (2 tr in next; sk next st) five times;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first ch-1 sp; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 6: use Lipstick yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same sp; sk next st; 1 tr in the sp between the next 2 tr;

*sk next st; 1 spike in the skipped st two rows below; sk next st; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr;

Repeat from * five more times;

*To turn the corner, work (1 tr; ch 1; 1 tr) in the ch-1 corner sp;

sk next st; 1 tr in the sp between the next 2 tr; sk next st;

(1 spike in the skipped st two rows below; sk next st; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; sk next st) six times;

Repeat from * twice more;

Sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 7: Use Teal yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 4

Round 8: Use Kelly Green yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 5

Round 9: Use Claret yarn

Repeat as for round 6

Rounds 10-78:

Rounds 4, 5 and 6 form the pattern repeat. Follow the colour sequence on the worksheet and repeat rounds 4, 5 and 6.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD COLOUR WORKSHEET

The Border

Round 1: use Claret yarn

Insert hook into any ch-1 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc into each stitch along the first edge; work (1 dc; ch 2; 1 dc) into the ch-1 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 dc into each stitch along the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 dc; ch 2; 1 dc) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back where you started, work 1 dc into the same space where you made your first ch-2;

Ch 2; sl st into the 2nd ch of the beginning ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Round 2: use Lipstick yarn

Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same sp; 1 tr into each stitch along the first edge; work (1 tr; ch 1; 1 tr) into the ch-2 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 tr into each stitch along the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 tr; ch 2; 1 tr) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back where you started, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Round 3: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 4: use Kelly Green yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 5: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 6: use Lipstick yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 2

Round 7: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 1

***********************************************************

Here are some useful links all in one place :

YULETIDE YARN PACK

COLOUR SEQUENCE WORKSHEET

YULETIDE BLANKET BLOG POST

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Comments

[Carole Caple]

Hi Lucy
I have turned this into a shawl instead, I hope you don't mind. I get lots of comments about it whenever I wear it and I have recommended your designs to all of the people admiring it. I knitted the body of the shawl and crocheted along the sides. It is lovely and warm and I am sure it will be well used over the coming years.
Carole (Dorset)

[G]

I am now working on my second Yuletide I love it.

Stitch count:
I took the advice of an earlier commenter and worked out a stitch count for each row. Every treble round adds 4 stitches per side, every 2-treble round adds 3 stitches per side and every spike round adds 1 stitch per side. So for example:

Row 6  Lipstick (spike) has 15 stitches per side. Then
Row 7  Teal (treble) adds 4 stitches per side = 19 stitches per side
Row 8 Kelly green (2-tr) adds 3 st per side = 22 stitches per side
Row 9 Claret (spike) adds 1 stitch per side = 23 stitches per side
Row 10  Burgundy (treble) adds 4 stitches per side = = 27 stitches per side
Row 11  Tomato (2-tr) adds 3 st per side = 30 stitches per side
Row 12  Bottle (spike) adds 1 stitch per side = 31 stitches per side

This continues throughout the pattern.

Turning work and starting from different corners:

I found turning the work over each time you start a new round helped keep the square more square, and starting from a different corner with each colour change also helped. The washing and blocking after completion also improved the final result in texture and symmetry.

It would be fantastic to have a new colour way (and wool pack - maybe including Poppy and Leaf, the new Made in Yorkshire colours!) for this brilliant pattern!

Thanks for designing it, Lucy.

[Elizabeth]

Hello Lucy! I just finished my Yuletide blanket and it is so pretty! The colors are wonderful! Of course, I seem to be constitutionally unable to follow directions exactly -- I have to change something -- but I think you would approve just the same. Here's what I did: I wanted a blanket large enough to act as a bedspread in the winter and I wanted it to be rectangular rather than square. I used your palette, in your color sequence, and I used your stitches -- but in order to turn at the end of every row, I had to add rows so that the stiches were on the right side. I added a row of bobbles atop the spike row (worked from the back), followed by two extra rows of dc. Repeat forever. I finished off with your edging. It took 2.5 yarn packs and I changed colors every row. Lots of woven-in ends! I swear I spent more time weaving in ends than I did actually crocheting. But it turned out so well and I am very happy with it. What amazes me is how different they are. Same colors, same color sequence, virtually the same stitches -- but so different. Thank you for sharing your beautiful pattern. I really enjoyed recreating it.

[Robyn]

I’ve been sitting on this project for 2 years. Finally decided this July to start it for 2024 Christmas. It’s turning out beautifully. I’m not worried about the stitch count. Also row two was very difficult for some reason but now that I’m on row 27 I see the pattern and can do it without the pattern. Just follow the colour chart now.
Happy Crocheting Loves.

[Lyn Elliott]

Hi Lucy, I have just purchased the Yuletide blanket pack and have looked at the pattern and notice that the blanket instructions do not turn after each row of the blanket is finished - my query is in the past when making a huge granny square blanket, if I don't turn my work each round, my work tends to go out of shape. Is this likely to happen with this pattern or because I will be doing different stitches each row the blanket should stay square throughout? Ive been crocheting for nearly 4 years now so have quite an even tension.
Many thanks,
Lyn

[Mary Cross]

Hi, I am on row 7 of the Yuletide blanket and finding it difficult to get even stitches on each side, is there a stitch count I could follow please. If I end up with odd numbers of stitches the pattern will be uneven.

I have already done the Fireside & Starbright blankets with no problems.
Thank you
Mary

[Lynn]

Hi, all! I found that starting each round in a different corner helps with the “wonkiness” and reduces bulk in just one corner of the blanket. I made this pattern in the Springfrost color pack and it’s of course beautiful! Such a fun pattern!

[Sue Langley]

Hi Lucy. On day 3 of the Attic24 yuletide blanket. Is there a stitch count chart for each round

[Dana]

I'm not sure what it is with this pattern. I think it's just gorgeous but for some reason I find it very difficult to keep the count correct. I've just accepted that my stitch count is off and I make it work when I hit a problem.

[Patricia Morris]

Thoroughly enjoying this Yuletide Blanket project, particularly as we've had so many dull days. The colours really brighten the day sat in front of a cosy fire with the blanket growing at a pace! I have so admired everyone else's projects which have been posted on Facebook as well as the many other various throw's that I am now completely hooked! Thank you for awakening my soul to produce some amazing worthwhile gifts!

[Mary Mason]

Maybe it's menopause but I have started this blanket so many times 'don't seem to be able to get beyond row 2,
Is it ultimately a complicated pattern?Should I give up and just do a granny stripe blanket?

[Michèle OLIVIER]

Hello !

thank you for your site Lucy !

I Would like to make Yuletide Blancket for my daughter, but without red ! Only several different greens, blue et violet.
Is it possible ?

Thank you !

[Karen Armstrong]

I made this Yuletide blanket 2 Yrs ago and it is just so gorgeous!! Did you ever put together another yarn pack for different color palette for this pattern?
Thank you! Karen

[Nat]

Is there a stitch count available for this blanket please? I’m worried as it’s starting to look a little wobbly!
Thanks for sharing your amazing talents and making these gorgeous patterns available to us. Keep them coming!

[Gill Nixon]

Having trouble with the stitch count is there any help with this please?

[Christine Wilczewski]

Hello. I received all of my materials. I believe the pattern is written in British crochet terms. I just wanted to check to make sure I am correct before I begin. Thanks for your response. Christine

[Laura]

I'm trying to figure out what exactly is meant by "fasten off" at the end of each round. Are we supposed to have a bunch of yarn ends sticking out of each round/do we darn those ends in?
Thank you!

[Heather G]

Would love to make this as a flat striped blanket. I'm new-ish to crochet. Any suggestions? Number of chains to begin/multiples? I'm assuming I'd still want to work the same repeat rows, but flat. Am I overthinking this or have I bitten off more than I can chew???

[Mary Marks]

Hello Lucy.
Just finished the Yuletide Blanket yesterday, just in time for my daughter’s Christmas present. She loved it and so do I.
Thanks for the photo instructions, I found them very helpful. Despite making several mistakes and having to undo quite a few rows, I enjoyed the whole experience. Thank you for enhancing my limited crochet skills and giving me the confidence to tackle more projects.
Merry Christmas. Mary

[Mary]

You need to make this into a PDF so that the whole thing is downloadable and printable page by page. Trying to print even one page from this pattern as its loaded onto the web page is just a nightmare

[ingrid bardyn]

kan het patroon echt niet in het nederlands bedankt

[Gerry Smith]

I recommend counting each row to ensure no mistakes. Once you get going you can see that some rows increase by 4 stitches and some by 8. This will help keep the square shape. Each rows relies on the previous one being correct so it is best to check by counting each row before moving on.

[Barbara Gorman]

I’ve just got the final border row to do, can’t believe it’s nearly finished - I’ll have withdrawal!
It’s looking great - for those who needed a stitch count - Mariken posted a formula on Oct 12th (or thereabouts) last year which I found really useful
Barbara

[Anna Vloothuis]

Hello Lucy,
I just love the Yuletide blanket colours and would like to make it in a single bed size blanket. Do you have instructions for doing such a blanket, and, if so, can you please tell me where I can find it?

Ta very much
Anna

[Trish]

Hi Lucy, I’m being very careful with not missing that hiding stitch but I’m definitely doing something wrong. Every time I recount at the 2nd row (stitch 2 miss one) the first side always has an extra pair of stitches. Thank you Trish