Yuletide Blanket

I designed the Yuletide blanket as a cosy, colourful winter blanket to be used in the home during the festive season. It's a blanket I imagine draped over the back of a sofa, or folded up on the arm of your favourite chair ready for you to wrap up warm as you watch a film or sit quietly to read. 

The design was inspired by the colours, scents and tastes of the Yuletide season - oranges, gingerbread, spices and mulled wine. Candlelight, fairy lights and a crackling open fire. Pine, holly, ivy, eucalyptus and berries. This blanket will bring cosy comfort and colour to your home – a warm hug on a cold night!

I wrote a blog post all about my Yuletide blanket  and you can read it by clicking on the following link :

YULETIDE TA-DAH BLOG POST

MATERIALS

For my blankets I use Stylecraft Special DK which is a 100% premium acrylic yarn. It's lovely to work with, comes in generous 100g balls and the finished blankets are warm, soft and machine washable. 

I've chosen 12 shades for my Yuletide blanket, adding 3 additional balls of my favourite colours (Lipstick, Claret, Kelly Green) to make 15 x 100g in total. This is enough to make a blanket measuring approximately 150cm / 5ft square (or 120cm x 180cm single bed size if you wish to create a striped blanket from the Yuletide yarn pack)

MATERIALS

Top row :

♥ Burgundy ♥ Tomato ♥ Gingerbread ♥ Bottle ♥ 

Middle row :

♥ Claret x 2 ♥ Gold ♥ Cypress ♥ Teal ♥ 

Bottom row :

♥ Lipstick  x 2 ♥ Camel ♥ Sage ♥ Kelly Green x 2 ♥ 

YULETIDE YARN PACK*

* the yarn pack contains an 8 page full colour A4 printed pattern

HOOK SIZE  and TENSION

The standard hook size for Stylecraft Special DK yarn is 4mm. However, it's a good idea to be familiar with your own personal tension and experiment with moving to a larger or smaller hook to achieve a neat result. If you crochet loosely you can reduce your hook size to 3.5mm. Similarly, if your tension tends to feel quite tight, you can increase your hook size to 4.5mm or 5mm to achieve the correct size square. 

SIZE

After completing the first six rounds of the Yuletide blanket, your square should measure approx. 12 cm square. It wants to feel quite compact, not too floppy or holey. As mentioned above, you can change your hook size to achieve the correct gauge.

PATTERN NOTES

The Yuletide blanket is worked as a giant square. There are 78 rounds in total, plus an additional 7 rounds which make up the border. This is an easy pattern to change the size - to make it smaller, simply stop when you've had enough! You can also make the blanket bigger than 150cm square by continuing the pattern repeats and adding additional rounds if you wish - you will need to purchase extra yarn to make a bigger sized blanket.

The square is created by repeating three different pattern rounds which are indicated on the worksheet to help you keep  track.

tr = this is a simple treble round, easy peasy.

2-tr = this is where you create little pairs of tr stitches (which resemble a V shape) with skipped stitches in between.

spike = this is a treble crochet worked into the skipped stitch two rows below the current one, drawing the loop up to the height of the current working row.

I've created a PDF Worksheet which you can download listing the colour sequence along with the pattern note for each round to help you stay on track.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD COLOUR WORKSHEET

COLOUR NAMES

A little reminder that you get to know the colour names so that you can identify them correctly when reading the worksheets! The colour name is printed on the yarn ball band. Before you whip the paper labels off your yarn balls, please make sure you take a little snip of yarn and record it's name.

YULETIDE PATTERN

This pattern uses basic stitches to create a pretty stripe with a subtle surface texture. Each stripe is crocheted in two rows. I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :

dc [double crochet] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

2-tr :: two treble crochets worked into the same stitch

Spike [Treble Crochet Spike Stitch] :: a treble crochet worked into the skipped stitch two rows below the current one, drawing the loop up to the height of the current working row (note :: this is equivalent to a US dc spike stitch)

NOTE : This pattern is written as a photo-heavy tutorial to help beginners or those who like visual guidance. If you are an experienced hookster, you can jump to the end of the tutorial where a traditional pattern is written out for you to copy/paste into a word document and print if you wish. Please, please make sure you take note of the sizing info and measure your square after the first six rounds to check your gauge.

Round 1 : use Tomato yarn 

Chain 4; slip stitch in 1^st chain to form a ring.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 2 tr into ring; chain 1;

*3 tr into ring; chain 1;

Repeat from * twice more so that you have 4 x three-tr groups in total.

Slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 2 : use Claret yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour (as shown above).

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 2 tr in same space;

Skip 1 stitch; 2 tr in the next stitch shown by my needle above; skip 1 stitch;

*(2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) in chain-1 space; skip 1 stitch; 2 tr in next stitch; skip 1 stitch;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first chain-1 space (as shown by my needle above); slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning chain-4 to close round. Fasten off.

And that's round 2 complete - you should have four corners, and a 2-tr stitch in the centre of each side.

Round 3 : use Gold yarn

Insert hook into first chain-1 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour (as shown above).

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 1 tr in same space; skip next stitch; 1 tr in the space between the next 2 tr (shown by my needle in the above photo);

Skip next stitch; 1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below.

NOTE : lets talk about the spike - this is just like a normal treble crochet, so yarn over, then stick your hook into the round 1 stitch shown by my needle in the above photo. Yarn over again and pull the loop back through the stitch to the front.

Gently loosen your tension so that all three loops on your hook can be pulled up to the same level as your working row. Complete the tr spike stitch just as you would for a normal treble : yarn over and pull through two loops (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops.

You'll see in the photo above how the spike stitch looks extra long (it's sometimes called a Long Treble), but the top of the stitch is level with the normal treble crochet stitch that sits to the right of it.

Once you've made a few of these spikes I promise you it will feel very easy and natural, honest!

Ok, moving on.....

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr (as sown by my needle above);

Skip next stitch; 1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below;

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; skip next stitch;

Now work the corner turn as follows :

(1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) into the chain-1 corner space, as shown in the above photo.

Now work the second side of the square as follows :

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; skip next stitch;

*1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below; skip next stitch;

1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * once more;

Work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) into the chain-1 space to turn the corner (as shown above)

Work the third and fourth sides following the pattern as for the second side, until you arrive back to where you started.

Finish off by working a slip stitch in the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-4 (as shown by my needle above); fasten off.

And that's round 3 complete - you have four corners (1 tr; chain-1; 1 tr), and 5 stitches worked along each of the sides.

Round 4 : use Sage yarn

Insert hook into first chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour (as shown above).

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 2 tr in same space;

Locate the first stitch (shown by my needle above - NOTE this stitch likes to hide, so wiggle your corner stitches out the way and make sure you find it!)

1 tr in each of the next 7 stitches;

*(2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) in chain-1 corner space;

Locate that first stitch (don't let it hide!), then work 1 tr in each of the next 7 stitches;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first chain-1 space (as shown by my needle above); slip stitch into 3^rd chain of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Yay, round 4 finished, looking cute! Ok, next colour....

Round 5: use Gingerbread yarn

Insert hook into first chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 2 tr in same space;

Skip next stitch (remember this stitch likes to hide, so make sure you find it so that you make your next stitches in the right place, as shown by my needle in the above photo);

*2 tr in next stitch; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * four more times;

Work (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) into chain-1 corner space; skip 1 stitch;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * four more times; (second side complete)

Work (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) into chain-1 corner space; skip 1 stitch;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * four more times; (third side complete)

Work (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) into chain-1 corner space; skip 1 stitch;

*2 tr in next stitch; skip next stitch;

Repeat from * four more times; (fourth side complete)

Now you're back where you started, work 1 tr into the beginning corner space, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-4 to close the round. Fasten off.

You should have four corners, and 5 pairs of 2-tr stitches along each side.

Time for some spikes now - get your hook ready!

Round 6: use Lipstick yarn

Insert hook into first chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same space; skip next stitch; 1 tr in the centre space between the next 2 tr (as shown above)

*Skip next stitch; 1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below (I've shown where the spike goes with my needle in the above photo);

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr;

Repeat from * five more times (first side complete)

*To turn the corner, work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) in the chain-1 corner space;

NOTE : if you want to do a quick stitch count at this point, you should have 13 stitches along the side, not including the corners (as shown above)

Ok, on with the second side.....

Skip next stitch; 1 tr in the centre space between the next 2 tr;

*Skip next stitch; 1 spike in the skipped stitch two rows below;

Skip next stitch; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr;

Repeat from * five more times (second side complete)

To turn the corner, work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) in the chain-1 corner space;

Now continue around the third and fourth sides the same as you did for the second side, until you get back to where you started.

Slip Stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-4 to close the round. Fasten off.

This is what your Yuletide square should like life after six rounds - it's now time to measure and check your tension.

After six rounds your square should measure approximately 12cm across.

This is an approximate guide, so if it looks and feels right to you, and it's a little bigger or smaller, then you can stick with the same hook and carry on. If you are wildly out, then you should begin again with a smaller or bigger hook because your hook size can really have a dramatic effect on the finished size of the blanket and the yarn quantities used. 

To give you an idea, I crochet quite tightly, and I achieve the correct tension for this pattern with a 4.5mm hook. If you are a loose crocheter, you can switch down to a 3.5mm to tighten up your stitches a little. I hope that makes sense - it's worth playing about until you get a feel for what works, especially if you're fairly new to crochet.

From this point on you will be repeating rounds 4, 5 and 6. I labelled them in the above photos so that you get into the habit of keeping a track of which stitch pattern you're making for each round (a straight tr round, then a 2-tr round with skipped stitches, and finally the spike stitch round). 

I think the pattern is very intuitive and is easy to remember once you get going.

Two top tips from me to help you keep your stitch counts correct :

1. Always make sure you locate that first stitch which likes to hide under the corners you just made - sometimes you need to locate it to stick your hook in, and sometimes you need to find it in order to skip over it. Either way, don't miss it!

2. You'll notice that the corners on the spike stitch round are skinner then the corners on other rounds, so don't get carried away and sneak in extra trebles when you work those corners. They are just (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) instead of the usual (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr) as for the other two rounds.

Round 7: Use Teal yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 4  (a straight tr round)

Round 8: Use Kelly Green yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 5 (2-tr separated by skipped stitches)

Round 9: Use Claret yarn

Repeat as for round 6 (spike stitch round)

Rounds 10-78:

Rounds 4, 5 and 6 form the pattern repeat. Follow the colour sequence listed on the worksheet - download it by clicking the following link >>

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD COLOUR WORKSHEET

When you've completed all 78 rounds (or as many as you want for the size of blanket you need), you can start on the border.

BORDER

I deliberately kept the Yuletide border very simple, using three colours - Claret, Lipstick and Kelly Green. Because there are two balls of each of these colours in the yarn pack you shouldn't have any worries about yarn quantities, even though these border rounds are going to be loooong! There are seven rounds in total, a mixture of treble rounds and smaller double crochet rounds.

Round 1: use Claret yarn

Insert hook into any chain-1 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc into each stitch along the first edge; work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the ch-1 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 dc into each stitch along the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back where you started, work 1 dc into the same space where you made your first chain-2;

Chain 2; slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Round 2: use Lipstick yarn

Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 1 tr in same space; 1 tr into each stitch along the first edge; work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 tr into each stitch along the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 tr; chain 2; 1 tr) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back where you started, slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-4 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Round 3: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 4: use Kelly Green yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 5: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 6: use Lipstick yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 2

Round 7: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 1

FINISHING

Your Yuletide blanket may well have a slightly uneven shape and will benefit from a light blocking. The best way to do this is to wash your blanket on a normal 30 degree wash, then while it’s still damp, stretch it out on a carpeted floor. Use your hands to smooth out and gently stretch the blanket onto a square shape, making sure the edges are straight and the corners are stretched out to form right angles. Pin out the corners, then leave to dry thoroughly for 24 hours before unpinning and giving the blanket a huge smooch! Blocking a blanket in this way isn’t essential so don’t worry if you don’t have the space to do it. But in my experience, blocking a whole blanket greatly improves both the shape and the drape of the finished crochet.

Here is the condensed version of the Yuletide blanket for you to copy/paste into a word document to print if you wish.

Please note that if you purchase the Yuletide yarn pack from my shop at Wool Warehouse, an eight page printed colour pattern is included.

***********************************************************************

Yuletide Blanket Pattern

Round 1 : use Tomato yarn

Chain 4; sl st in 1^st ch to form a ring.

Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 2 tr into ring; ch 1;

*3 tr into ring; ch 1;

Repeat from * twice more so that you have 4 x three-tr groups in total.

Sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 2 : use Claret yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 2 tr in same sp;

Sk 1 st; 2 tr in next st; sk 1 st;

*(2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr) in ch-1 sp; sk 1 st; 2 tr in next st; sk 1 st;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first ch-1 sp; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 3 : use Gold yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same sp; sk next st; 1 tr in the sp between the next 2 tr;

*sk next st; 1 spike in the skipped st two rows below; sk next st; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr;

Repeat from * once more

*To turn the corner, work (1 tr; ch 1; 1 tr) in the ch-1 corner sp;

sk next st; 1 tr in the sp between the next 2 tr; sk next st;

(1 spike in the skipped st two rows below; sk next st; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; sk next st) twice;

Repeat from * twice more;

Sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 4 : use Sage yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 2 tr in same sp; 1 tr in each of the next 7 sts;

*(2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr) in ch-1 sp; 1 tr in each of the next 7 sts;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first ch-1 sp; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 5: use Gingerbread yarn

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 2 tr in same sp; sk next st;

*2 tr in next st; sk next st);

Repeat from * four more times;

*(2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr) in ch-1 sp; sk next st; (2 tr in next; sk next st) five times;

Repeat from * twice more;

1 tr into first ch-1 sp; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 6: use Lipstick yarn

Insert hook into first ch-1 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same sp; sk next st; 1 tr in the sp between the next 2 tr;

*sk next st; 1 spike in the skipped st two rows below; sk next st; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr;

Repeat from * five more times;

*To turn the corner, work (1 tr; ch 1; 1 tr) in the ch-1 corner sp;

sk next st; 1 tr in the sp between the next 2 tr; sk next st;

(1 spike in the skipped st two rows below; sk next st; 1 tr into the centre space between next 2 tr; sk next st) six times;

Repeat from * twice more;

Sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round. Fasten off.

Round 7: Use Teal yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 4

Round 8: Use Kelly Green yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 5

Round 9: Use Claret yarn

Repeat as for round 6

Rounds 10-78:

Rounds 4, 5 and 6 form the pattern repeat. Follow the colour sequence on the worksheet and repeat rounds 4, 5 and 6.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD COLOUR WORKSHEET

The Border

Round 1: use Claret yarn

Insert hook into any ch-1 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc into each stitch along the first edge; work (1 dc; ch 2; 1 dc) into the ch-1 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 dc into each stitch along the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 dc; ch 2; 1 dc) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back where you started, work 1 dc into the same space where you made your first ch-2;

Ch 2; sl st into the 2nd ch of the beginning ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Round 2: use Lipstick yarn

Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same sp; 1 tr into each stitch along the first edge; work (1 tr; ch 1; 1 tr) into the ch-2 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 tr into each stitch along the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 tr; ch 2; 1 tr) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back where you started, sl st into the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Round 3: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 4: use Kelly Green yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 5: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 1

Round 6: use Lipstick yarn

Repeat pattern as for Round 2

Round 7: use Claret yarn

Repeat pattern as for round 1

***********************************************************

Here are some useful links all in one place :

YULETIDE YARN PACK

COLOUR SEQUENCE WORKSHEET

YULETIDE BLANKET BLOG POST

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Comments

[Elsie Hughes]

I just finished my blanket and it is now blocked and drying on my floor. It blocked very well and I am so pleased I finished and can give to my daughter who is anxiously waiting. Thank you Lucy for the encouragement you gave me about my wonky shape before blocking. I am about to open my second kit and get started

Hugs

Elsie

[Patti A Roth]

I too am having difficulty with the 2nd row-claret. what am I missing?

[Danielle Flanagan]

Hello -is there a chart for this beautiful pattern please ?

[Elsie Hughes]

Thank you for the information Lucy. I will give the carpet blocking a try and I’m sure it will work. This is a lovely blanket and I bought 2 so I will be starting another right after .

Hugs
Elsie

[Alison]

Mine is too, very disappointed, I’m hoping it will reshape when blocking

[Elsie Hughes]

I’m on the border now but my blanket is so out of shape . I should have turned my work every other row as I heard this solves the problem . Will stick to stripes in the future .

[Jelena]

Is there any chance to get the pattern presented as a chart? Thanks!

[Sarah MacLean]

Really enjoying this pattern and blanket. Our crochet class meet up on Zoom every wednesday for a bit of show and tell, blanket progress and a natter. Having great fun. Many thanks

[Rosie Pither]

Love the pattern but why will i have a new ball of kelly green and 1 new ball of claret.

[Alison]

Hi, such beautiful colours but mine twisting. I have the correct count will this straighten out in blocking?

[Kathy Geren]

Hi Lucy, I usually don’t post anything, I just read everyone else’s posts, but I just could not resist commenting on the Yuletide blanket. I was so anxious to get started with the blanket that I stayed up until 2 AM to make sure that I got my order in for the yarn pack. (I live in the US.) I just completed my blanket (slow crocheter), and I LOVE it!!! I added a row of bobble stitches in Kelly Green as the last row on the border and I am beyond pleased with it. You are such an awesome designer, and I so appreciate all that you share with us, your faithful followers. I
so enjoy reading your blog that I check daily to see if you have posted anything new. I love your writing style and your wonderful way with words. I just couldn’t pass up the opportunity to let you know that I think you are AWESOME!! Thanks so very much for all your inspiration.

[Missie]

When you join a new color, do you weave in the ends, or just crochet over them?

[Anita Walters]

Love the colours in this blanket, I can't crochet but me and my daughter are making Pom Pom garlands for our Christmas decorations and we have chosen these colours to make them. I can't wait to see how they turn out

[Amanda]

Hi Lucy
My Yuletide square is so wonky ??
Tried it twice now ?
Beautiful colours but it’s not working
Thanks mandy

[Barbara]

Amanda - the stitch count posted on Oct 12th by Mariken works perfectly

[Amanda]

I would be very grateful for the stitch count, has this been posted anywhere?

[Robin Paone]

Loving this pattern! If I wanted to double the size of the blanket, how much additional yarn would I need to order. Your work is AMAZING!

[Barbara]

Many thanks to Mariken, who posted her stitch count on Oct 12th - it works perfectly! I’m now on row 27, and it’s looking lovely

[Lindsey Braidley]

Hi
I’m having trouble with the Claret row2. Do you have it drawn as a diagram? I just can’t get it to work from the words. Have undone it 4 times now.
Thanks

[Heidi]

To ROSIE, who posted a question on October 5th.....if you go past the last big picture of Lucy's blanket, below the following words 'Please note that if you purchase the Yuletide yarn pack from my shop at Wool Warehouse, an eight page printed colour pattern is included.', Lucy has put the instructions without all the pictures, so you can copy and paste into word. I've done this for myself as its easier for me. Hope this helps you!

[Mariken]

I love the pattern! It is so nice to crochet this blanket. I looked at my blanket so far and did some math.
Round 6 had 15 stitches in each side.

Next tr row adds 4 stitches.
Next 2-tr row adds 3 stitches
Next Spike row adds 1 stitch.
So each cycle of 3 rows adds 8 stiches.

Row 9 has 23 stiches om each side.
Row 12 has 31 stitches….. etc.

I hope this will help.

[Barbara Gorman]

I’ve just started my Yuletide blanket and I’m already loving the colours - you are clever Lucy. However I too would like the reassurance of a stitch count or at least a formula to make sure I’m still on track. I’m about to be let loose after following your tutorial and I’m worried about hidden stitches and missing spikes! Thanks

[Rosie]

I really want to do this blanket my daughter 8s doing it but its out of stock is there anyway i can download and print this pattern off? I dont mind paying

[Sandy]

Please, please could we (I) have a stitch count for the first side of the trebles, as in round 4 (7 tr). I’m obviously going adrift on this row as the 2 -tr row doesn’t work out and i keep ripping it back! I’m only on round 13, so not many stitches, worried as it’s only going to get bigger with more to pull back. THANK YOU XXX

[Aileen O'Connor]

Lucy, would there be any chance you could give a stitch count for each round similar to what you have for round 4 where you reference 7 trebles. I must keep missing that 1 hidden stitch and I've ripped back a few times and I'm only on round 8!! I'm terrified of it losing shape as it gets larger and I'm too lazy to rip back. This pattern just arrived as I was about to have back surgery and its keeping me occupied while i have to keep rested. 🙃 I really want to finish before i go back to work!!