Woodland Ripple

There is something incredibly mesmerising about crocheting ripples. I love the way the undulating ripples allow the colours to really play together, and I love the soothing, repetitive nature of the counting that's involved in creating those curvy ups and downs. This particular ripple pattern is a crochet version of the traditional Shetland "Old Shale" knitting pattern. There are many versions of this pattern that exist in the public domain (sometimes also known as "Feather and Fan"),  and although it looks complicated, it's actually a very simple pattern to create. 

You can see in the above image (which is my crochet sample taped to the window), that the undulations are formed by groups of close together stitches (which form the mountain), and groups of spaced out stitches (which form the valley). This repeating pattern creates a subtle lacy look, allowing little peeps of light to filter through the holes without making the overall crochet fabric too holey. These little peep holes remind me of the way the sunlight filters down through the leafy treetops in the woodland, and the undulating curves echo the winding woodland pathways. You can read more about the inspiration behind my Woodland Blanket design in this post.

MATERIALS

For my blankets I use Stylecraft Special DK which is a 100% premium acrylic yarn. It's lovely to work with, comes in generous 100g balls and the finished blankets are warm, soft and machine washable. 

For my Woodland blanket I've chosen 15 shades of Stylecraft Special DK as follows ::

Top row, left to right...

❧ copper ❧ tomato ❧ spice ❧ gold ❧ mustard ❧ lime ❧ meadow ❧

Bottom row, left to right...

❧ pistachio ❧ lincoln ❧ cypress ❧ mocha ❧ grey ❧ silver ❧ duck egg ❧ storm ❧

You can find the Woodland yarn pack in my shop at Wool Warehouse...

❧ ❧ WOODLAND YARN PACK ❧ ❧

You will need 15 x 100g of Stylecraft Special DK to create a single bed sized blanket measuring 120 cm x 180 cm.

If you wish to make the blanket bigger (double or king size) you will need 2 yarn packs.

 

HOOK SIZE  and TENSION

The standard hook size for Stylecraft Special DK yarn is 4 mm. However, it's a good idea to be familiar with your own personal tension and experiment with moving to a larger or smaller hook to achieve a neat result. For example, I'm a tight crocheter so I'm making my Woodland blanket using a 5 mm hook. If you crochet quite loosely, then you will probably find that a 4 mm hook suits you just fine. If you made the Moorland blanket with me last year, then you should already have an idea of your tension and will probably find you can use the same hook size for the woodland blanket.

This tutorial will show you how to make a small tension sample. Please, please take the time to do this, especially if you are following the CAL and using a yarn pack to make a blanket. It'll help you make your blanket the right size and drape, and will make sure you don't run out of yarn. Making this small sample before you begin on your blanket will also help you to feel familiar with the pattern and decide which hook size will work best for you.

Towards the end of this tutorial, I'll give you some guidelines to help you decide on the finished size of your project, and the correct number of starting chains/pattern repeats to make. 

This pattern uses just two basic stitches to create the undulating Woodland ripple. I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

FLO :: crochet through front loops only

WOODLAND RIPPLE TENSION SAMPLE

*starting chain is always a multiple of 17, plus an extra 1

Using colour Lime, chain 35 (17 x 2, +1).

Row 1 : starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 dc in each chain. Fasten off, but do not turn. [34 sts]

Row 2 : Right side facing. Using colour Cypress, insert hook in first st and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same st; 2 tr into each of the next 2 sts; skip 1 st; (1 tr in next st; skip 1 st;) 5 times;

2 tr in each of next 3 sts;

2 tr into each of the next 3 sts; skip 1 st; (1 tr in next st; skip 1 st;) 5 times; 2 tr in each of next 3 sts;

Chain 1; turn. [2 pattern repeats]

Row 3 : Wrong side facing. Work in FLO.

Work 1 dc in FLO of each stitch across. Fasten off; turn. [34 sts]

Row 4 : Right side facing. Using colour Meadow, repeat Row 2.

Row 5 : Wrong side facing. Repeat row 3.

Row 6 : Right side facing. Using Mustard yarn, repeat Row 2.

Row 7 : Wrong side facing. Repeat row 3.

If you work the above pattern, it  should give you and idea of how the ripples are formed. 

Don't worry if the above pattern isn't enough for you! I've put together a full picture to guide you through making the tension sample, so scroll down and follow my tutorial.......

*The starting chain for the Woodland Ripple is always a multiple of 17, plus an extra 1 for turning*

We will be working up two pattern repeats for our tension sample......

To begin : Chain 35 (2 x 17, plus an extra 1)

Row 1 : Start in 2nd chain from hook (shown by my needle in the above picture)

Work 1 dc in each chain across. Fasten off. You should have 34 stitches in total (this should always be a multiple of 17 for this pattern).

Note : when you work into a foundation chain, your hook should pass under both loops of the chain, as shown in the above photo. This can be really tricky for newbie crocheters and does take some practice. If your chain feels very tight and you are struggling to get your hook in there, switch to a larger hook to make your chain bigger, then go back down to work your dc row. 

After the first row, keep your crochet with the right side facing you (yarn ends over on the left). You'll begin the next row in that first stitch (shown by my needle in the above photo). Your crochet will probably be curly at this point, but it should still sit nice and flat/straight when you spread it out. If it's bowing like a rainbow, then your tension is to tight - try going up a hook size to create your starting chain.

Row 2 : Make sure the right side of the crochet is facing you (row 1 yarn ends over on the left side). Insert your hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr into same stitch (as shown above)

Work 2 tr into next stitch; 2 tr into next st (as shown above)

Skip 1 stitch....

*work 1 tr into the next st; skip 1 stitch*

Repeat between ** four more times.

You should have 5 spaced out treble stitches which create the "valley" of your ripple.

Remember that you need to skip the stitch immediately after your last treble.....

....then work 2 tr into each of the next 3 stitches (as shown above).

You have now completed one whole pattern repeat, so lets take a look........

Your pattern repeat is worked over 17 stitches, and can be broken down into three parts.

6 close trebles (this is 2 tr worked into each of the first 3 stitches)

5 spaced trebles (this is a group of 5 tr spaced apart by skipped stitches, with a skipped stitch at the beginning and end of the group. You should be able to count 6 skipped stitches in total)

6 close trebles (this is 2 tr worked into each of the next 3 stitches)

Hope this makes sense! Now on with the next pattern repeat...........

Work 2 tr into each of the next 3 sts to complete your "mountain" (as shown above) 

Skip the next stitch;

*work 1 tr into the next st; skip 1 stitch*

Repeat between ** four more times.

You should have 5 spaced out treble stitches which create the "valley" of your ripple.

You should now have 4 stitches remaining.

Skip 1 stitch...... 

Work 2 tr into each of the next 3 stitches. Do not fasten off.

This is how the two pattern repeats sit next to each other. You can see how the groups of close trebles (where you work 2 tr into one stitch) form the mountain, and the groups of spaced out stitches (where you separate your tr's with skipped stitches) form the valley. 

Row 3 : Chain 1 and turn your work. You will be working with the wrong side facing you now.

For this row you will work in FRONT LOOPS ONLY.

Insert hook under the Front Loop of the very first stitch (shown by my needle in the above photo) and work 1 dc. 

Work 1 dc in FLO of each stitch across. Your last dc should be worked into the top of the beginning chain-3 from the previous row (as shown by my needle in the above photo). Fasten off. 

You should have 34 stitches in total - the above photo show the wrong side of the crochet.

Turn your work over.....

.....and you can see the neat little ridged line created by leaving the back loop free when you worked FLO in the last dc row.

Row 4 : This is a repeat of Row 2. Work with right side facing you.

Insert your hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr into same stitch; 2 tr into each of the next 2 stitches.

Skip 1 stitch; *work 1 tr into the next st; skip 1 stitch*

Repeat between ** four more times.

Work 2 tr into each of the next 3 stitches. This completes your first pattern repeat.

Work 2 tr into each of the next 3 stitches.

Skip 1 stitch; *work 1 tr into the next st; skip 1 stitch*

Repeat between ** four more times.

You should have 4 stitches left. 

Skip 1 stitch; work 2 tr into each of the next 3 stitches.

And that's your second pattern repeat complete. Now chain 1 and turn your work.

Row 5 : This is a repeat of Row 3. Work with wrong side facing you, and in Front Loops Only.

Work 1 dc in FLO of each stitch across. Your last dc should be worked into the top of the beginning chain-3 from the previous row (as shown by my needle in the above photo). Fasten off and turn the work.

You should have 34 stitches (2 x 17) at the end of this row.

Now we've just one more stripe to crochet and I'm going to show you how to keep your counting on track and how to make regular checks on your stitch alignment.

Row 6 : This is a repeat of Row 2. Work with right side facing you.

Insert your hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); work 1 tr into same stitch; work 2 tr into each of the next 2 stitches.

Skip 1 stitch; *work 1 tr in next st; skip 1 stitch *

Repeat between ** 4 more times.

The best way to check your stitches are in the right place is to look at the 3rd / middle stitch of the 5 spaced out trebles (the bottom of the "valley"). This third stitch will always line up with the third stitch of the previous treble row. See in the above picture where I've put the red arrows? Can you see how those two middle trebles are sitting directly in line with each other?

Make it a habit to always check the bottom of your valley with every pattern repeat to make sure your stitches are aligned. If you've miscounted when you worked your "mountain" then the bottom of the "valley" won't line up and you will immediately be able to go back and find your mistake. If you check this with every pattern repeat then you should never be frogging out too many stitches.

Carrying on with the pattern :

Work 2 tr into each of the next 3 stitches; 

Skip 1 stitch; *work 1 tr in next st; skip 1 stitch *

Repeat between ** 4 more times.

Remember to stop and check when you reach that 3rd spaced out treble to make sure it's sitting directly above the middle treble in the row below. Check your valley bottom !!!!!! :)

You should now have 4 stitches remaining - this will always be the case no matter how many pattern repeats you are crocheting, so you can breathe with relief at this point as all is well!

Work 2 tr into each of the last 3 stitches of the row. Chain 1 and turn.

Counting Note : when I'm working the stitches of this row, I find I instinctively count them out in my head as I work them. With the groups of close trebles that form the "mountain", I've found I make less mistakes if I count to 6, then repeat the count of 6 (rather than counting to 12, if that makes sense!)

So for this sample (which is two pattern repeats) I would count as follows :

1, 2 ::  3, 4 :: 5, 6 

space, 1, space, 2, space, 3 (check alignment), space, 4, space, 5, space

1, 2 :: 3, 4 :: 5, 6  (end of first pattern repeat),

1, 2 :  3, 4 : 5, 6 

space, 1, space, 2, space, 3 (check alignment), space, 4, space, 5, space

1, 2 ::  3, 4 :: 5, 6  (end of second pattern repeat)

I hope that makes sense!! I know we all find our own ways to keep on track and you may wish to count differently. But I thought I would tell you how I count as I work, as I think the counting rhythm of this pattern makes for some very meditative crochet.

Row 7 : This is a repeat of Row 3. Work with wrong side facing you, and in Front Loops Only.

Work 1 dc in FLO of each stitch across. Your last dc should be worked into the top of the beginning chain-3 from the previous row. Fasten off and turn the work. You should have 34 stitches (2 x 17) at the end of this row.

And that's the end of the tension sample - you should have two neat pattern repeats worked across 34 stitches. 

There are two reasons for making a small sample like this before you embark on a full size blanket. The first is so that you can  familiarise yourself with the pattern. The second is so that you have something to help you decide what size hook to use and how many starting chains you will need to create the size of blanket you want.

SIZE / TENSION

As mentioned at the start of this tutorial, DK weight yarn uses a 4mm crochet hook as standard, but depending on your personal hooky tension, you can easily change your hook to alter the size and drape/feel of your crochet fabric. For example I crochet quite tightly and find that a 5 mm hook gives me the nicest, most blankety results.

Your sample should measure 17 cm wide (approximately!)

If you find your sample is coming out quite a big bigger/looser, then drop down one or two hook sizes.

If your sample is coming out smaller and feels tight/stiff, then move up one or two hook sizes.

DARNING IN ENDS

After every stripe you will have two yarn ends to tidy away, and I would strongly recommend that you get into the habit of darning them in as you go. I find the neatest and most secure way is to use a darning needle and weave your tail end under the stitches for approx. 3 or 4 cm (taking care that this doesn't show on the right side of your work)......

....then insert your needle right into the strands of the closest stitch and weave your tail end back on itself until your needle pops out at the outside edge.

Pull the needle/tail end right out of the crochet, taking care not to pull too tightly. Give the crochet a little tug to loosen the stitches where you have darned underneath, then snip off the end close to the crochet edge.

If you darn each tail end in individually, weaving it carefully under/through the stitches of the same colour, you shouldn't be able to see any evidence of those tail ends, and your edges should be beautifully straight and neat.

One more thing to say about darning in ends - IT's REALLY NOT THAT BAD!!!!!!!!!! So many people seem to hate darning in ends, but to me it's simply a satisfying way to finish off a therapeutic row of crochet. If you adjust your mindset and think of the darning procedure as a quick few-seconds extension of the stripe you've just worked rather than an awful chore that you hate, then all will be well in your world :)

BLANKET SIZE AND STARTING CHAIN

I generally make my blankets single/twin bed size (120 cm x 180 cm or 4 ft x 6 ft). If you are using a yarn pack which contains 15 x 100g Stylecraft Special DK and you are achieving the correct tension, then you should easily have enough yarn to make this size of blanket. 

For double/king size blankets, you will need 2 yarn packs.

I've made some calculations to help you decide how many starting chains you will need to achieve different widths - please note that these are approximate guidelines, and are based on the tension sample (2 pattern repeats) measuring 17cm, as shown above.

120 cm / 4ft width = 239 starting chain. This is the size of blanket I'm making for the WOODLAND CAL.

90 cm / 3ft width = 188 starting chain. This is a good size for a baby blanket or a lap size blanket (3 ft x 4ft)

150 cm / 5 ft width = 307 starting chain.

180 cm / 6ft width = 358 starting chain. 

210 cm / 7ft width = 426 starting chain. 

I've put all this info into a chart for you  - this should help you customise your width if you wish. Remember starting chains for the Woodland ripple will always be a multiple of 17, plus an extra 1. 

Download WOODLAND RIPPLE PATTERN CALCULATIONS

What I'm going to do now is write up the Woodland Blanket pattern for you, so that you can copy/paste/print if you wish.

I'm also really thrilled (like super-thrilled!) that I've been able to work with my hubby J (who is a very talented computer-geeky type) to produce a graphic crochet chart for you as well. Crochet charts are really helpful for those of us who are visual learners as they are often able to clarify the way a pattern works better than words can. 

WOODLAND RIPPLE PATTERN

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

st = stitch

ch = chain

FLO = Front loops Only

*starting chain is always a multiple of 17, plus an extra 1

Using colour Lime, chain 239.

Row 1 : starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 dc in each chain. Fasten off, but do not turn. [238 sts]

Row 2 : Right side facing. Using colour Cypress, insert hook in first st and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same st; 2 tr into each of the next 2 sts;

Skip 1 st; (1 tr in next st; skip 1 st;) 5 times; 2 tr in each of next 3 sts;

*2 tr into each of the next 3 sts; Skip 1 st; (1 tr in next st; skip 1 st;) 5 times; 2 tr in each of next 3 sts;*

Repeat between ** until end of row. Chain 1; turn. [14 pattern repeats]

Row 3 : Wrong side facing. Work in FLO.

Work 1 dc in FLO of each stitch across. Fasten off; turn. [238 sts]

Row 4 : Right side facing. Using colour Meadow, repeat Row 2.

Row 5 : Wrong side facing. Repeat row 3.

Row 6 : Right side facing. Using Mustard yarn, repeat Row 2.

Row 7 : Wrong side facing. Repeat row 3.

Continue working your stripes, repeating Rows 2 and 3. All colour info for the stripes can be found within the CAL posts on my blog - links are given at the end.

When you are ready to work the Border, go to my Slipstream Edging tutorial.

As many of you will know, I made the Woodland Ripple blanket as a Crochet-A-Long (CAL) throughout January and February 2018. If you wish to follow my colour order for the stripes, you can find all the information in the weekly CAL installments - links are given below.

{WOODLAND BLANKET YARN PACK}

{WOODLAND BLANKET CAL : introduction}

{WOODLAND BLANKET CAL : Q&A}

{WOODLAND CAL PART 1 : colour info for stripes 1 - 18 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 2 : colour info for stripes 19 - 36 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 3 : colour info for stripes 37 - 54 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 4 : colour info for stripes 55 - 72 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 5 : colour info for stripes 73 - 90 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 6 : colour info for stripes 91 - 105 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 7 : The Border } 

{SLIPSTREAM EDGING}

HAPPY WOODLAND WANDERINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Comments

[Patti]

And to add to Emily's question about starting with a foundation US sc, door the sample would you do 34 instead? Thanks!

[Sue Dodman]

Hi Lucy, Well that's the sample completed - 17cm spot on! Recovering from flu, and full of cold but was determined to start the CAL on Friday 5th .. such glorious colours. I'm also halfway through the Coastal blanket, and have Cosy, Cottage and two Weekend Bags in my 'to do' stash ... !!

[Kathy Bryer]

Since there were so many chain stitches, I used stitch markers every 17 chains to follow the pattern repeat. I carried the stitch markers thru the first few rows so that I could catch any issues right away and also get comfortable with the pattern. There is nothing worse that thinking you counted correctly and get to the end of a row and find that you missed something.

[Debbie O’Neill]

Done the tester now starting on the real thing.
Done know if this will help anyone but I read somewhere when working on loads chain stitches this could help to keep the chains straight. After doing a few chains put the first chain on the hook then continue making the rest. Hope that makes sense. Can’t wait to finish this blanket. 🤩

[Sam Browning]

I'm looking forward to getting started, just working on the sample now, and having to try smaller hook sizes. Hopefully I'll keep up and have a finished blanket 2 months from now.
Also just wanted to say, on top of my respect for your very detailed pattern - as usual - how much I love that you included a crochet chart. I think they're great at showing what the stitch pattern looks like (much better than a knitting chart.) Great job team Lucy & J! 👌😘

[Kendal]

Hello,

This is my first crochet along ever and I'm pretty excited to get started. I'm finding the blog instructions a bit complex to follow. Is there a printer friendly pattern without any pictures that I can work from?

Thanks

[Zoe]

Hi Lucy, I can't wait to get started on this when I get home from work! I had one question. When the blanket is finished, will the colors be horizontal or vertical, if you are holding up the short side at the top? Does that make sense? Just curious so I know what to expect. :)

[Tracey]

Can’t wait to start it looks amazing but is it possible to have a printer friendly version please? I always struggle to print from these blogs and would happily pay just to buy the pattern because it takes so long to print. I have had to take a photo of the bits I need and print those.

[Sue]

Hi Lucy, I've just completed my sample using a 4mm hook and it's measuring 19cm should I go down to a 3.5mm hook? Loving the colours already. Thank you.

[claire]

thanks for the pattern lucy its working up nicely thanks to your wonderful tutorials. I just need a tip on stitching on to of the dc row..as its proving quite stiff and tricky best wishes claire

[Nancy Wright]

Hi, Lucy - thanks for another fabulous pattern and tutorial. I have Cupcake and Hydrangea (on the way) - would I be able to use either of those kits for this project and follow the colours as you have indicated for either the Cupcake/Hydrangea directions? I treated myself to wooden clothes pins and am going to get myself organized while I wait for Hydrangea although if it is taking too long to get to Canada, I will start with Cupcake. Have a great weekend! Nancy

[Emily]

Can you use a Foundation Double Crochet instead (or in US a Foundation Single Crochet)?

[Andrea Walker]

This is what happens, so work with it and all will be well. Some of them have big lumps, some are smaller and some are close to perfect....but not many. I still prefer working with the center pull. Hope you find your groove. Courage! And happy hooking.

[Linda]

Hi I'm so excited to get started but I haven't even picked up my crochet hook yet - I had never thought to start the yarn from the middle of the ball until I read your introductory blog and have tried - but I've only found 2 out of the first 10 - I keep pulling lumps out of the middle! What am missing?