This bag is a neat, compact design but is big enough to be used to carry around your every day essentials. Sling it about your person and enjoy wearing some colourful hand made stripes as you go about your day. The chunky yarn makes for some speedy crochet - you really can whip one of these up in a weekend!
Materials
The Weekend Bag is made using 8 shades of chunky acrylic yarn. I've created three different colourways to choose from using Stylecraft Special Chunky Yarn, and these are available to buy as yarn packs from my shop at Wool Warehouse.
Each pack contains ::
♥ 8 x 100g chunky yarn
♥ 1 x sew-in magnetic bag closure
♥ a full colour printed pattern.
You will need a 5mm hook (see information on tension below)
Colours
Stylecraft Special Chunky yarn. 8 x 100g in the following colours :
Heatwave : Burgundy, Plum, Pomegranate, Copper, Spice, Gold, Teal, Meadow
Seaspray : Graphite, Silver, Aster, Denim, Teal, Aspen, Lavender, Cloud Blue
Springtime : Pomegranate, Fondant, Spice, Lemon, Cream, Aspen, Cloud Blue, Aster
However, as the finished bag weighs less than 300g it's a really good project to use up small amounts of chunky yarn from your stash and come up with your own stripy creation.
Tension
Size isn't particularly important for this bag, but you should aim to use a hook size that produces a nice, tight crochet fabric without holes. I suggest a 5 mm hook, but if you crochet loosely you may wish to use a 4.5 mm hook. Aim to create a bag that holds it's shape well with minimum stretch.
The Weekend Bag
The finished bag measures approximately 26cm x 28cm (not including the handle). The bag is designed to be worn with a long strap across the body, but the handle can easily be shortened to make a shoulder bag if you prefer this style.
I've used a magnetic closure to fasten my bag - these are really nifty sew-in ones and are brilliant! If you've bought one of my Weekend Bag packs from Wool Warehouse there is one of these magnetic closures included in the pack.
For this tutorial, I'm using the 8 colours from my Springtime chunky yarn pack. I've not included specific information about the colour stripe order, but this information is included in the printed patterns which come with the chunky yarn packs.
So....are you ready to get hooking? Lets make ourselves a bag!
WEEKEND BAG PATTERN
I'm writing my pattern using UK terms and abbreviations as follows ::
ch(s) Chain(s)
st(s) Stitch(es)
sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
htr2tog [half treble two together] :: yarn over, insert hook in st, yarn over, pull a loop back through (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull a loop back through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc2tog decrease stitch)
dc2tog [double crochet two together] :: insert hook in st, yarn over, pull a loop back through (2 loops on hook). Insert hook into next st, yarn over, pull a loop back through (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc2tog decrease stitch)
BAG BODY
The body of the bag is crocheted in rounds of half treble stitches, starting from the bottom/base and working upwards. All rounds are worked from the right side with no turning. Refer to the printed pattern included in the yarn packs for the colour stripe order, or feel free to make up your own creation!
NOTE : please be mindful of your tension as you work your stitches, especially if you are usually a loose crocheter. The body of the bag is worked in half trebles and you should aim to keep a fairly tight, even tension as you work. You should try and create a bag that has no holes or gaps and holds it's shape well. You can always experiment with hook size - often changing down by just half a mm can make a significant difference to the look and feel of a piece of crochet.
TO BEGIN : Chain 19
ROUND 1 : Starting in the third chain from the hook (shown by my needle in the above photo), work 1 htr.
Work 1 htr in each of the next 15 chains - you should have 1 chain remaining (as in the above photo). Work 4 htr's into the last chain - this will turn you around the corner.
Now continue working into the single loops along the bottom of the foundation chain (shown by my needle in the above photo)....
Work: 1 htr in each of the next 16 chains.
The next stitches are worked into the bottom of the turning chain (shown by my needle in the above photo) - Work 3 htr in bottom of the turning chain.
You're now back to where you started - slip stitch into the top of the turning chain (shown by my needle in the above photo) to close the round. Fasten off.
Have a quick count of your stitches - you should have 40 stitches in total.
ROUND 2 : change to a new colour, and begin in the 1st htr after the point where you fastened off the previous round. Insert your hook into the stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr).
Work 1 htr in each of the next 15 stitches.
Work 2 htr in each of the next 4 stitches - this will turn you around the corner, as shown in the above photo.
Work htr in each of the next 16 sts. You should have four stitches remaining (you can clearly see them in the above photo)
Work 2 htr in each of the next 4 stitches - you will now be back around to where you started.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 (shown by my needle in the above photo) to close the round. DON'T fasten off!
You should now have 48 stitches.
ROUND 3 :
See where my needle is in the above photo? This is where you will make the first stitch of Round 3 - Slip stitch into this first stitch so that you're in the correct place to begin this round.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr)
Work 1 htr in each of the next 15 stitches. Now it's a good idea to take a close look at your stitches so that you can check everything is lining up. Your increase stitches should be lining up with the increase stitches in previous rows - they make a distinct V (shown where my needle is in the above photo).
*Work 2 htr in the next stitch; work 1 htr in the next stitch*
Repeat between ** three more times which will turn you round the corner.
Work 1 htr into each of the next 16 stitches. Have a quick look and see if you can spot the V increase in the row below - these increase stitches should be lining up and sitting on top of each other.
*Work 2 htr in the next stitch; work 1 htr in the next stitch*
Repeat between ** three more times.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 (shown by my needle in the above photo) to close the round. Fasten off.
Have a quick count of your stitches - you should have 56 stitches.
ROUND 4 : change to a new colour, and begin in the 1st htr after the point where you fastened off the previous round. Insert your hook into the stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); work 1 htr into each of the next 15 stitches.
Check your increase stitches are lining up!
*2 htr in next stitch; 1 htr in each of the next 2 stitches*
Repeat between ** three more times.
Work 1 htr into each of the next 16 stitches.
*2 htr in next stitch; 1 htr in each of the next 2 stitches*
Repeat between ** three more times.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 (shown by my needle in the above photo) to close the round. Don't fasten off.
Have a quick count of your stitches - you should have 64 stitches.
ROUND 5 :
Slip stitch into the first stitch to make sure you're in the correct place to begin this round.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr)
Work 1 htr into each of the next 15 stitches - check your increases are going to line up (but only if you want to!!)
*2 htr in next stitch; 1 htr in each of the next 3 stitches*
Repeat between ** three more times.
Work 1 htr into each of the next 16 stitches.....then ermmm check your increase line-up.....
*2 htr in next stitch; 1 htr in each of the next 2 stitches*
Repeat between ** three more times.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 (shown by my needle in the above photo) to close the round. Fasten off.
Have a quick count of your stitches - you should have 72 stitches.
ROUND 6 : change to a new colour, and begin in the 1st htr after the point where you fastened off the previous round. Insert your hook into the stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr)
Work 1 htr into each of the next 15 stitches.
*2 htr in next stitch; 1 htr in each of the next 4 stitches*
Repeat between ** three more times.
Work 1 htr into each of the next 16 stitches.
*2 htr in next stitch; 1 htr in each of the next 4 stitches*
Repeat between ** three more times.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 (shown by my needle in the above photo) to close the round. Don't fasten off.
You should now have 80 stitches.
ROUND 7 :
Slip stitch into the first stitch to make sure you're in the correct place to begin this round.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr).
Work 1 htr into each stitch around.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off.
You have now finished the oval base of your bag, and it should look something like the above picture - a shallow boat that holds it's shape well.
Now it's time to whip up the sides of the bag - this is easy-peasy, speedy crochet folks! Each stripe is made of two rounds of half trebles, 80 stitches around with no increases to worry about.
There will be twelve stripes (twenty four rounds) which make up the side of the bag. When you begin each round, start at either one of the rounded ends, and alternate between the left and right sides. This will prevent an obvious seam forming and will make sure that your joins won't be glaringly obvious at the front or back of the bag.
It's a good idea make regular checks on your stitch count, making sure you keep to 80 stitches without adding in any extras by mistake (which is quite easy to do).
NOTE : the next two rounds (8 & 9) form the pattern repeat.
ROUND 8 : Insert your hook into any stitch at the rounded side of the base oval and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr)
Work 1 htr into each of the next 79 stitches around.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Do not fasten off. [80 stitches]
ROUND 9 : Slip stitch into the first stitch to make sure you're in the correct place to begin this round.
Chain 2 (count as 1 htr); work 1 htr into each stitch around.
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off. [80 stitches]
ROUNDS 10 - 31 : Repeat rows 8 & 9, remembering to keep each colour change at the rounded sides of the bag, alternating between the left and right sides.
After row 31, you should have crocheted 16 stripes in total. It should look like a bag!
Now before we go any further, you need to darn in all ends as securely and neatly as you can.
Once you've dealt with all your ends, lay the bag on a table and flatten it out so that the sides are straight and aligned with the oval base which will curve at the bottom.
Now you need to mark the two stitches at the far right right and far left top edge of the bag. They will be directly opposite each other, with 39 stitches in between each marker.
You can use two locking stitch markers, or simply use 2 short lengths of yarn to mark these stitches and leave them in place.
BAG FLAP
The bag flap is worked directly into the top edge of the bag, with the right side (outside) of the bag facing you. You will turn at the end of each row.
TO BEGIN : with the right side of bag (the outside) facing you, begin in 11th stitch from the right side marker. Insert your hook and draw through a loop of the new colour.
ROW 1 : chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); work 1 htr in each of the next 18 stitches; turn. [19 stitches]
NOTE : Check at this point that you have 10 unworked stitches between each edge of the bag flap and the markers you placed at either side – this makes sure the flap is positioned centrally.
ROW 2 : chain 2 (counts as 1 htr).
NOTE : For each of these rows, you need to make sure you start in the correct place. Ignore the stitch at the base of the turning chain - your first htr should go where my needle is pointing in the above photo.
Work 1 htr into each of the next 18 stitches; turn.
NOTE : Your very last stitch will be worked into the top of the chain-2 from the start of the previous row (shown by my needle in the above photo) - it can be easy to miss this last stitch, so make sure you are keeping count. You'll have 19 stitches in total (including the beginning chain-2).
ROWS 3 - 9 : Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); work 1 htr in each st across; turn. [19 sts]
ROW 10 : Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); htr2tog [half treble two together]. There is an explanation of the htr2tog (which is a half treble decrease stitch) in the abbreviations at the start of this tutorial, but I'll talk you through it in plain English - it's pretty straight forward! This decrease stitch is worked across two stitches, as follows :
Yarn over, insert hook in stitch (remember not to go into the stitch at the base of the chain-2 by mistake!), yarn over, pull a loop back through (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull a loop back through (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.
The above photo shows the beginning chain-2, plus the half treble decrease.
Work 1 htr into each of the next 13 stitches (you should have 3 stitches left now).
Work 1 htr2tog over the next 2 stitches....
....now your last htr stitch is worked into the top of the chain-2 from the previous round. This can sometimes feel quite awkward if your chains are tight - you need to wiggle your hook right in there where my needle is pointing!
At the end of Row 10, you should have 17 stitches. Turn your work.
ROW 11 : Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); htr2tog; 1 htr into each of the next 11 stitches; htr2tog; 1 htr; turn. [15 stitches]
ROW 12 : Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); htr2tog; 1 htr into each of the next 9 stitches; htr2tog; 1 htr; turn. [13 stitches]
ROW 13 : Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); htr2tog; 1 htr into each of the next 7 stitches; htr2tog; 1 htr; turn. [11 stitches]
ROW 14 : Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); htr2tog; 1 htr into each of the next 5 stitches; htr2tog; 1 htr; turn. [9 stitches]
ROW 15 : Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); htr2tog; 1 htr into each of the next 3 stitches; htr2tog; 1 htr; fasten off and darn in ends securely. [7 sticthes]
BAG STRAP
The length of the bag strap is entirely up to you – I made mine to measure approx 100 cm in length which is just about right for me to wear the bag across my body. When you measure your foundation chain, pull it tight to get an accurate measurement. If you prefer to wear your bag as a shoulder bag that's fine - just make your foundation chain the right length to suit you. Remember that the strap will stretch very slightly with use so don't make it too long!
NOTE : the colour of the strap should be the same colour that you used to work the last strip of the bag (rows 30 & 31)
TO BEGIN : Leave a 30cm tail end before making your slip knot, then chain approximately 130 (or enough chains to get the length of strap you require)
ROW 1 : Start in 2nd chain from hook; work 1 dc in each chain along; ch 1; turn.
ROWS 2 – 6 : Work 1 dc in each st along; ch 1; turn. Fasten off, leaving a 30cm tail end.
NOTE : The strap will probably be tight and curled and will benefit from a little stretching and blocking. Pin it out onto an ironing board or blocking board, stretching it gently until it reaches the required size. Using a steam iron on a low setting, puff some steam across the surface of the crochet – DO NOT let the iron touch the crochet!
ATTACHING THE STRAP
The two side markers you left in place will help you position the bag strap. Make sure the right side of the bag strap is facing outwards. Position one of the short ends so that it lines up centrally with the side marker. Thread the 30cm tail end onto a darning needle and stitch the strap to the top of the bag edge - make as many stitches as you can, working along one way, then back again.
The strap needs to be stitched to the bag as neatly and securely as you can manage. Makes sure you darn in the tail end well - this is one part of the bag which will be under strain and you don't want it all to unravel!
Repeat with the other end of the strap, taking care not to twist it.
EDGING
This is worked in two long rows of double crochet which run along the top edge of the bag, around the edge of the flap and along the edge of the strap. Work with the right side (the outside) of the bag and strap facing you at all times.
NOTE : the colour of the edging should be the same colour that you used to work the bag flap.
ROW 1 : Position the bag so that the front is facing you (the side without the bag flap attached). Join yarn in the corner where the handle joins the top edge of the bag (as in above photo)
Chain 1; 1 dc in same stitch.
You will be working right the way around the front edge of the strap - this will be the foundation edge of the strap so you will be working each double crochet stitch under the single loops of the foundation chain (as in the above photo)
Work 1 dc into each loop of the foundation chain along the front edge of the strap.
When you reach the point where the strap joins the bag edge, add one or two extra dc stitches to strengthen.
Continue to work 1 dc in each stitch along the front edge of the bag (as in above photo).
You should end up right back where you started. Now either slip stitch to the beginning dc, or make an invisible join using a darning needle. Darn in tail ends as securely and neatly as you can.
ROW 2 : Position the bag so that the back is facing you (the side with the bag flap attached). Join yarn in the corner where the bag strap joins the top edge of the bag (as in above photo). Chain 1, then work 1 dc in same stitch.
Work 1 dc in each stitch along the length of the bag strap.
When you arrive at the point where the strap is joined to the bag edge, work an extra stitch to strengthen the join.
Work 1 dc into each stitch between the strap and the bag flap, making an extra dc in the corner to strengthen.
Carry on your double crochet edging around the curve of the bag flap, inserting your hook into the ends of each htr row.
Make sure your stitches don't pull too tightly – they should form a neat curve around the bag flap.
When you reach the corner, work 2 dc. Now work 1 dc into each of the unworked stitches along the top edge of the bag until you arrive right back where you started.
Now either slip stitch to the beginning dc, or make an invisible join using a darning needle. Darn in tail ends as securely and neatly as you can.
FLOWER
This is a chunky version of my Triple Layer flower. Choose four colours to contrast with the colour of the bag flap, as follows :
Colour 1 - small petals
Colour 2 - medium petals
Colour 3 - large petals
Colour 4 - centre
TO BEGIN : Using colour 1, chain 4; slip stitch into 1st chain to form a ring.
ROUND 1 : Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); work 6 dc into the ring; slip stitch into 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close the round. Don't fasten off. [7 stitches]
ROUND 2 : Slip stitch into the next stitch so you will be in the right place to start this round.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc in same stitch.
*2 dc in next stitch*
Repeat between ** 5 more times; slip stitch into 2nd ch of beginning chain-2 to close the round. Don't fasten off. [14 stitches]
ROUND 3 : Work 3 tr into next stitch.
*slip stitch into next stitch; work 3 tr into next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times.
Slip stitch into base of 1st stitch to close the round; fasten off. [7 small petals made]
ROUND 4 : Using colour 2, make a slip knot on your hook, then hold the flower with the right side facing you.
Bend one of the small petals forward, then insert your hook under the loops at the back of the 2nd treble stitch (in the centre of the petal)....
....and make a slip stitch to anchor the yarn.
Chain 3.
*Slip stitch into the tr loop at the back of the next petal; ch 3*
Repeat between ** 5 more times; sl st into the loop where you made the beginning slip stitch to close round. Don't fasten off. [7 chain loops made]
The back of your flower should now have a ring of seven chain loops - you'll work into these loops to form the petals. Turn your flower back over and continue to work with the right side facing you, bending the small petals forward to expose the chain loops behind.
ROUND 5 : *Slip stitch in next chain loop; work 5 tr's in the chain loop; slip stitch in the same chain loop to secure the petal*.
Repeat between ** 6 more times.
Slip stitch into the beginning slip stitch to close the round. Fasten off. [7 medium petals made]
ROUND 6 : Using colour 3, make a slip knot on your hook, then hold the flower with the right side facing you.
Bend one of the small petals forward, then insert your hook under the loops at the back of the 3rd treble stitch (in the centre of the petal and make a slip stitch.
Chain 4.
*sl st into the tr loop at the back of the next petal; ch 4*
Repeat between ** 5 more times; slip stitch into the loop where you made the beginning slip stitch to close round. Don't fasten off. [7 chain loops made]
ROUND 7 : *Slip stitch in next chain loop; work 6 tr's in the chain loop; sl ip stitch in the same chain loop to secure the petal*
Repeat between ** 6 more times; slip stitch into the beginning slip stitch to close the round. Fasten off. [7 large petals made]
FlOWER CENTRE :
The flower centre is worked in a continuous spiral - you shouldn't need a stitch marker as the rounds are very small, but you will need to count!
ROUND 1 : Using Colour 4, leave a 30cm tail end before making the slip knot.
Chain 2; work 6 dc in 1st chain. [6 stitches]
ROUND 2 :
*2 dc in next stitch; 1 dc in next stitch*
Repeat between ** twice more. [9 stitches]
ROUND 3 : Work 1 dc in each of the next 9 stitches. [9sts]
You should now have a little dome shape sitting on the end of your finger!
ROUND 4 *dc2tog (refer to stitch explanation at the start of the pattern); 1 dc in next stitch*
Repeat between ** twice more. Fasten off, leaving a 20cm tail end for stitching. [6 stitches]
Roll up the beginning 30cm tail end and stuff it up inside the crochet to form a small ball - use the end of your crochet hook to push it right up inside.
Thread the finishing 20cm tail end onto a needle and gather in the remaining 6 stitches at the base of the small ball to close the hole.
You should have a small crochet ball with a 20cm tail end ready for stitching to the centre of the flower.
Stitch the centre in place, using a couple of stab stitches through the centre of the crochet ball.
Ta-dah! One chunky flower ready to give a lovely finished touch to your bag front. Before we stitch it in place, we'll need to attach the magnetic fastening first.....
MAGNETIC FASTENING
I love these sew-in magnetic fastenings, they are really easy to attach and do a great job of keeping your bag flap neatly closed. The fastening comes in two parts, it doesn't matter which way round you use them, so long as you line them up with each other.
Start by stitching the bottom closure to the body of the bag. For the neatest results, find a needle that has an eye big enough for the chunky yarn, but is slim enough to pass through the holes of the fastening. Cut a length of yarn the same colour as stripe 12 of your bag, and secure it to the front/centre of stripe 12 (as in the above photo)
Secure the fastening with 2 or 3 stitches in each of the four holes, then fasten off securely.
Position the upper part of the magnetic fastening on the underside of the bag flap. It should sit approximately 2 cm from the end of the bag flap, as in the above photo. Use a length of yarn that matches the colour of the bag flap, securing the fastening with 2 or 3 stitches in each of the fours holes, just as you did with the lower part. Fasten off securely.
STITCHING THE FLOWER
This is the final part of the bag - nearly done! I find it best to use a length of yarn that matches the colour of the bag flap - this way you don't need to worry about stitches showing on the reverse side of the bag flap.
Pin the flower in position in the centre of the bag flap. Stitch it in place by making very small stab stitches around each large petal to secure it to the bag flap. Make sure you pull the stitches quite tightly so that they sink into the flower petal and disappear. Check the reverse side of the bag flap at regular intervals as you stitch to make sure you keep it looking as neat and tidy as you can.
The flower will almost fill the front of the bag flap, ahhh you can't beat a bit of floral goodness to make a bag look extra special!
I've been road-testing these bags for more than a year now, using the same one every day. I can tell you that the strap and the bag will stretch a little with use, but the bag does hold it's shape pretty well. If you are nifty with a sewing machine, you could always make a fabric lining for your bag, maybe even lining the handle with fabric or a length of 30mm wide ribbon.
The Weekend Bag really is a satisfying and quick project to get your hook into, resulting in a beautiful bag to use and wear.A few things to mention before I hop off and leave you to get cracking....
♥ Each bag uses less than 300g of chunky yarn, so if you've bought one of my chunky yarn packs you should have enough yarn to make two bags. You may also have some chunky yarn already sitting in your stash - I really hope you have some fun creating your own set of colourful stripes!
♥ I know this is a huuuuuge tutorial, and I'm sorry that at this time there is no condensed version of the pattern to download or print. Chunky yarn packs can be found in my shop at Wool Warehouse and they do contain an 8 page printed pattern as well as a magnetic closure.
♥ This tutorial doesn't included the colour stripe order for the three bags I've made - however, this information is included in the printed patterns which come with the yarn packs.
A reminder of the colours I've used -
Heatwave : Burgundy, Plum, Pomegranate, Copper, Spice, Gold, Teal, Meadow
Seaspray : Graphite, Silver, Aster, Denim, Teal, Aspen, Lavender, Cloud Blue
Springtime : Pomegranate, Fondant, Spice, Lemon, Cream, Aspen, Cloud Blue, Aster
♥ You can read more about the design and making of the Weekend Bag on my blog here.
♥ Have fun, enjoy a bit of happy, stripy, chunky hooky!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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♥ I really hope you enjoy having a go with this pattern. As with all my tutorials I am happy to provide them here on my blog for free, for you to use and enjoy. However, I'm hoping that if you do give this pattern a whirl then you might consider making a small donation to help support what I do here in the Attic ♥
THANK YOU, your support is truly appreciated
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Does anyone have detailed instructions on how to line this bag?
Posted by: Mrs Sandra Hunter | March 20, 2024 at 12:16 PM
Do you know when a pattern for the weekend bag might be available to buy? I am asking for a 92year old friend who doesn’t have the facilities to follow your tutorial.
Posted by: Norma Probert | August 22, 2023 at 05:39 PM
Do you know when a pattern for the weekend bag might be available to buy? I am asking for a 92year old friend who doesn’t have the facilities to follow your tutorial.
Posted by: Norma Probert | August 22, 2023 at 05:39 PM
listen this is an abso9lte joke it didnt work all my water spilt out what happned to no plastic,i think we should bring it back! #dontsVETHEOCEAN #NOTURTLES #CROCHENOTHEONE
Posted by: GRACE SHEELA | May 18, 2021 at 12:41 PM
Lovely. I made a smaller version for a Christmas present. Easy pattern to follow.
Posted by: Del | January 06, 2021 at 09:29 PM
Maybe i'm dumb but with the increases i'm having to increase the number of stitches .
Posted by: Daisy | July 28, 2018 at 08:09 PM
Hi Lucy
I have just started my crochet journey at 67 yrs, and have watched many YouTube videos.
I came across your work on Ravelry, and it has made me so happy. I love how you have written your tutorials showing images where to put your crochet hook for the next stitch, sometimes not easy to sea on a video. I am definitely going to buy the kit for this lovely crochet bag. Thank you for sharing your talent and beautiful work with us. X
Posted by: Kath Garvey | May 05, 2018 at 11:09 AM
I have just whipped up this bag for a present for a friend. Thank you so much for your BRILLIANT instructions. I struggle to read patterns and normally have to watch videos, however, your step by step pics are even better! Thank you, Lucy :-)
Posted by: Vicki | November 12, 2017 at 07:24 PM
Hello, is there anyone who can help with an issue I have with this? I've undone countless times and obviously doing something wrong?
Posted by: Alison Tansley | May 11, 2017 at 12:53 PM
Hello Lucy
I ordered the Weekend Bag Kit and adored making it. The bag of yarn was very generous and I plan to make another one. I love your site and tutorials and feel like I know you. I also was inspired to make a May Wreath. Thanks for your inspiration.
Shirley
Posted by: Shirley Covington | April 03, 2017 at 01:01 AM
Such a lovely bag, and a great photo tutorial. I got the pack from Wool Warehouse, and made a first bag. It has a few unexpected design features as I struggled with the flower and it came out too big for the flap. However, for information's sake, prospective buyers may be interested to know I have made a second bag from the yarn provided in the kit - totally perfect after the trial run. There was not enough of the pale blue yarn left to do the strap twice, so I swapped the top 2 stripes and did the strap in the turquoisey green, which looks just fine with the blue border and flap. There is now not a lot of the two blues or the turquoisey green left, but there is enough of the other 4 colours to make a third bag if I am prepared to settle for fewer different colours in the stripes. The magnetic clasps are easily available from eBay for the 2nd and 3rd ones. Three bags from one pack makes this a very economical choice, and it's so pretty friends will be queuing up for the duplicates.
Posted by: Valerie Clark | January 02, 2017 at 11:54 PM
Baie mooi is hy nie in afrikaans ook nie
.sal dit waardeer
Posted by: Gertruida | December 19, 2016 at 09:23 PM
Hi Lucy - I have spotted a mistake I think. In round 5 the second end says 2htr in next stitch then 1htr in next 2 stitches repeat 3 times. At the first end it says 2htr in next stitch then 1htr in next 3 stitches.I love this bag and am getting the kit for Christmas!
Posted by: Rowena Corlett | December 08, 2016 at 08:34 AM
I would love to see a pic of someone wearing this purse so it will be easier to get a better feeling of size. I'm very visual and this would probably be helpful to others as well. They are beautiful and I'm trying to figure out if I want to make and buy. Thanks.
Posted by: Mary | December 01, 2016 at 10:03 PM
Hi Lucy, I hope you don't mind me mentioning it but I think there's a small typo in the tutorial. In Round 5 for the second lot of increases it says 1htr in the next 2 stiches but I think it should be the next 3 stitches to match the increases earlier in the round. Is that right? Cheers, Fiona
Posted by: Fiona Paterson | November 11, 2016 at 11:30 PM
Hi Lucy! Your pattern suggests that we use 8 x 100g of chunky yarn - does the bag actually use all 800g? How much yarn do you think it needs if it weren't for the lovely multi-coloured stripes? Thanks, Bethy xxx
Posted by: Bethy Boo | October 24, 2016 at 03:02 PM
Is it possible to obtain a printed copy of this pattern as I have enough yarn left over to make this from the Jolly Chunky Bag pack that I purchased from the Wool Warehouse this summer?
Thanks
Posted by: Maralyn | October 24, 2016 at 11:34 AM
This is just gorgeous, think I've got to get me one of those packs! I love the fact that it's quick as well as easy to follow; I think I may have to make a couple as Christmas presents. Thanks for such a comprehensive, clear and well laid out pattern; I wish they were all as easy to follow as this. Karen xx
Posted by: ComfyMarmalade_blog | October 22, 2016 at 01:14 PM
Lucy I adore this new bag you created. Going to go order one from your website. Thank you for all your hard work. You are the best.
Posted by: Maureen Grillo | October 19, 2016 at 07:16 AM
What an adorable project! Can't wait to try this one!
Posted by: Pamela | October 18, 2016 at 06:05 PM
Hi Lucy I've just finished my 1st bag and I'm really very proud of it. There are a few places that I could have done better, but given I've only been crocheting since January 2016 I think I've done OK. Your patterns are great to follow and I suspect that when I read your tutorial here I'll figure out where I went wrong!
Just wanted to say thanks very much. I think I may make a few for Christmas presents x
Posted by: Emma Shepherd | October 17, 2016 at 09:35 PM