This v-stitch pattern was designed as an alternative way to use the STARBRIGHT blanket kit. The original Starbright blanket is a vibrant square design and you can read more about it by clicking on the following link >>
As is usual for my blankets, I've chose fifteen shades of Stylecraft Special DK for my Starbright blanket
Top row :
♥ Gold ♥ Magenta ♥ Fuchsia Purple ♥ Pomegranate ♥ Lipstick ♥
Middle row :
♥ Apple ♥ Kelly Green ♥ Empire ♥ Teal ♥ Bottle ♥
Bottom row :
♥ Turquoise ♥ Aster ♥ Lapis ♥ Lobelia ♥ French Navy ♥
You can find the Starbright yarn pack in my shop at Wool Warehouse, click on the following link...
HOOK SIZE and TENSION
The standard hook size for Stylecraft Special DK yarn is 4mm. However, it's a good idea to be familiar with your own personal tension and experiment with moving to a larger or smaller hook to achieve a neat result. If you crochet loosely you can reduce your hook size to 3.5mm. Similarly, if your tension tends to feel quite tight, you can increase your hook size to 4.5mm or 5mm to achieve the correct size square.
PATTERN REPEATS AND STARTING CHAINS
The v-stitch starting chain should always be a multiple of 2, plus an extra 1.
Here is a list of suggested starting chains for different size blankets :
Tension sample (18 cm width) : Chain 31
Single/twin blanket (120cm / 48" width) : Chain 195 * This is my standard blanket size
Baby blanket (70cm / 28" width) : Chain 115
Lap throw (90cm / 36" width) : Chain 147
Double bed blanket* (180cm / 72" width) : Chain 291 *requires two yarn packs
King bed blanket* (210cm / 84" width) : Chain 335 *requires two yarn packs
V-STITCH PATTERN
I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :
sl st [slip stitch] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.
tr [treble] = yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
v-st [a simple v-stitch] where 2 trebles (US dc stitch) are worked into the same space or stitch (no chain space between). When v-stitches stack on top of each other, they are worked into the gap between the two trebles which make up the v-stitch directly below.
To Begin (multiples of 2, plus an extra 1)
Chain 31 to make a tension sample (18cm width) or
Chain 195 for the blanket (120cm width).
Note : You might like to use a bigger hook size (eg, 5mm) to make your starting chain, then switch back down for the first crochet row. You need to count carefully - place stitch markers at regular intervals (every 25 stitches) if you need to.
Row 1 : Colour A
Starting in the 4th chain from the hook, work 1 tr in each chain along; do not fasten off.
Note : the beginning turning chain counts as the first stitch - this is important when you are checking your stitch count for the first row.
At the end of Row 1 you should have 29 treble stitches if you're making your tension sample, and 193 treble stitches if you're making your blanket. Remember that the beginning turning chain counts as one stitch.
Turn your work.
Row 2 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 tr); 1 v-stitch in next stitch;
✱ skip the next stitch; 1 v-stitch in next stitch;
Repeat from ✱ until you have one stitch remaining; work 1 tr into the final stitch (which is the top of the turning chain in previous row); fasten off and turn the work.
Tension sample - you should have a single tr at the start and end of the row, and 14 v-stitches in between.
Single bed blanket - you should have a single treble at the start and end of the row, and 96 v-stitches in between.
Row 3 : Colour B
You will be stacking your v-stitches in this next row (and every subsequent row) so work into the centre of the v-stitches formed in the row below.
Insert hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 tr); 1 v-stitch into the centre of the next v-stitch;
Work 1 v-stitch into each v-stitch along the row until you have one stitch remaining;
1 tr into the final stitch (which is the top of the turning chain in previous row); do not fasten off; turn the work.
Row 4 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 tr); 1 v-st into the centre of each v-stitch along the row until one stitch remains.
1 tr into the final stitch (which is the top of the turning chain in previous row); fasten off and turn the work.
Rows 3 and 4 form the pattern repeat for each stripe.
Make as many stripes as you like - for a 6ft long blanket I estimate around 99 stripes. If you are making smaller blankets, you can reduce the number of stripes and stop when you are happy with the length.
If you have the Starbright yarn kit, you have two options for making v-stitch stripes.
On the left is the mixed stripe, and on the right a colourwash version.
I've created worksheets for each version, listing the colour order for the stripes using the Starbright yarn pack (15 shades).
You will be able to make one single bed size blanket out of one yarn kit.
Click on the following links to download the PDF pages :
STARBRIGHT COLOURWASH WORKSHEET
BORDER
I designed this cute border for the Starbright V-stitch stripe blanket.
I've used the same kind of shades (blues with a festive pop of red) as I did for the Starbright square blanket and I think it turned out beautifully.
HOOK SIZE
For rows 1, 2, 3 and 6 you can use the same size hook that you used to make the v-stitch stripes in the body of your blanket.
For rows 4 and 5 (the spotty bit), I would suggest increasing your hook size (go up by half or one millimetre) to prevent the crochet tension from pulling too tight when you make the chain spaces.
COLOURS
I picked out six colours to create a mostly blue border, with Lipstick red providing some jolly pops of festive colour.
If the red is too much, feel free to tone it all down and use another blue or green shade if you prefer. For example, in the above photo I swapped out the Lipstick and replaced it with Turquoise (all other colours stayed the same).
YARN QUANTITIES
This border is very economical with yarn, and for my blanket I used less than 20g of each colour. If you wish to check your yarn quantities to make sure you have enough, I can highly recommend some compact digital scales. I have these ones >> (Amazon UK link) which I keep with my yarn and they are very useful.
PATTERN
This border is worked using double crochet stitch and some chains. I'm writing using UK terms as follows :
sl st [slip stitch] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.
dc [double crochet] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
Round 1 : Use Lapis yarn.
Beginning at the top right hand corner of your blanket (the darned ends will be on the right hand side), insert hook into first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc into each of the stitches along the top row until 1 stitch remains (this last stitch is the top of the chain-3 from the previous row);
Into the last stitch, work (1 dc: chain 2; 1 dc) to turn the corner.
Working down the long side of the blanket, you'll be inserting your hook under the "post" of the stitches which form the end of each stripe.
Work 1 dc around the post of the next stitch; work 2 dc around the post of the next stitch, as shown above.
You will effectively be creating 3 dc stitches into each stripe all the way down to the bottom.
When you reach the bottom, work (1 dc; ch 2; 1 dc) into the first loop of the foundation chain to turn the corner.
Working along the bottom foundation edge, you’ll be crocheting into the single loops of the foundation chain (as shown by my needle above). Work 1 dc in each loop along the bottom edge of your blanket.
The corner turn is worked into the last stitch which is the bottom of the turning chain....work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) to turn the corner.
Working along the final long side of the blanket, this is the edge where you darned in your ends so it may well be uneven and sometimes a bit of work to get your hook under the posts of the stitches.
Work 3 dc into the end of each stripe - take your time and try and space your stitches as evenly as possible, as shown above.
When you arrive back where you started, work (1 dc; chain 2) in the stitch where you made your beginning chain-2.
Slip stitch into 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close the round; fasten off.
Well that's the trickiest first round over and done with!
ROUND 2 : Use Aster yarn.
Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); work 1 dc into each stitch along the first side.
When you reach the end of the first side, turn the corner by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space.
Continue crocheting around the blanket, working 1 dc into each stitch along the sides, and turning the corners by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner spaces.
When you arrive back where you started, work (1 dc; chain 2) in the corner space where you made your beginning chain-2.
Slip stitch into 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close the round; fasten off.
ROUND 3 : Use Teal yarn.
Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour.
Repeat pattern as for round 2.
ROUND 3 : Use Lipstick yarn (or another colour of your choice)
NOTE : I would advise you to increase your hook size for this round - try going up half a millimetre, or even a whole millimetre to make sure you keep an even tension with no tightness or pulling.
Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc, plus chain-1);
*skip the next stitch; work (1 dc; chain 1) in next stitch;
Repeat from * along the first side until you have one stitch remaining. Skip this last stitch and work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner.
*skip the next stitch; work (1 dc; chain 1) in next stitch;
Repeat from * along the second side until you have one stitch remaining. Skip this last stitch and work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner. That's the second side completed.
*skip the next stitch; work (1 dc; chain 1) in next stitch;
Repeat from * along the whole side until you have one stitch remaining. Skip this last stitch and work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner. That's the third side completed.
*skip the next stitch; work (1 dc; chain 1) in next stitch;
Repeat from * along the whole side until you have one stitch remaining. You should now be right back where you started - skip that last stitch right before the corner and work (1 dc; chain 2) in the corner space where you made your beginning chain-2.
Slip stitch into 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close the round; fasten off.
ROUND 3 : Use Empire yarn
NOTE : Keep using the same size hook that you used for the previous round.
In this round we are going to be working into the skipped stitches two rows below (the teal row). These will be sitting directly below a chain-1 (as shown by my needle in the above photo).
Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc, plus chain-1);
*skip the next dc; now work 1 dc into the skipped stitch two rows below, pulling the stitch up to create a slightly elongated dc. These elongated dc stitches will be worked around the chain-1 stitches in the previous row.
Chain 1;
Repeat from * along the first side - you should now be right at the corner turn.
Work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner.
*skip the next dc; now work 1 dc into the skipped stitch two rows below, pulling the stitch up slightly to create a slightly elongated dc; chain 1;
Repeat from * along the second side - you should now be right at the corner turn.
*skip the next dc; work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner. That's the second side done.
*skip the next dc; now work 1 dc into the skipped stitch two rows below, pulling the stitch up slightly to create a slightly elongated dc; chain 1;
Repeat from * along the third side - you should now be right at the corner turn.
*skip the next dc; work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner. That's the third side done.
*skip the next dc; now work 1 dc into the skipped stitch two rows below, pulling the stitch up slightly to create a slightly elongated dc; chain 1;
Repeat from * along the whole side until you get back where you started - skip that last dc right before the corner and work (1 dc; chain 2) in the corner space where you made your beginning chain-2.
Slip stitch into 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close the round; fasten off.
ROUND 4 : Use Lobelia yarn
NOTE : switch back down to the smaller hook that you used for the first three rounds.
In this round we are going to be working under the chain-1 stitches created in the previous round, as shown by my needle in the above photo.
Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc);
*skip the next dc; work 2 dc under the chain-1;
Repeat from * along the first side - you should now be right at the corner turn.
Skip the next dc; work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner and complete the first side.
*skip the next dc; work 2 dc under the chain-1;
Repeat from * along the second side. Work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner and complete the second side.
*skip the next dc; work 2 dc under the chain-1;
Repeat from * along the third side, then turn the corner by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space.
*skip the next dc; work 2 dc under the chain-1;
Repeat from * along the last side until you get back to where you started. Skip that last dc right before the corner and work (1 dc; chain 2) in the corner space where you made your beginning chain-2.
Slip stitch into 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close the round; fasten off.
And that is the final finishing edge of this cute little V-stitch border done.
I hope you enjoyed rounding off your stripes with these lovely little rows of colour, it's a great pattern that can be used with any colour palette. You can make your round 4 "spots" pop out or blend in, depending on the overall look you wish to create - feel free to have a play!
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Here are all relevant links in one place.....
★ V-STITCH BLANKET TA-DAH POST
★ STARBRIGHT COLOURWASH WORKSHEET
★ STARBRIGHT SQUARE BLANKET TA-DAH POST
