These big, bold squares of mine have been giving me a huge amount of pleasure as I've worked with these glorious colours, oh the colours! I think I did good when I chose the word "Sunny" for this palette of 18 colours, they are so warm, vibrant and joyful, a real pleasure for my Summer-loving soul.
♥ PATTERN INFORMATION
These Sunny Log Cabin squares will eventually become a large blanket/throw. There will be 16 squares in total (in a 4 x 4 format) with each square measuring approx. 35cm.
The finished blanket will measure approx. 150cm square.
My design for these blocks is inspired by traditional Log Cabin quilts, you can read more about it in this post. Each square starts with a Sunny Granny Square at it's centre, then has 16 strips crocheted in layers to build up the square. The construction of these strips is based on the "Courthouse Steps" log cabin design, although I'm not ordering my colours in the traditional courthouse step way - my design is a hybrid all of it's own :)
♥ MATERIALS
Attic24 Sunny Yarn Pack – 18 x 100g balls Stylecraft Special DK in the following colours:
Claret, Lipstick, Bright Pink, Magenta, Fondant, Shrimp, Spice, Gold, Citron, Lime, Meadow, Sage, Petrol, Aster, Turquoise, Wisteria, Violet, Plum.
You will need a 4mm hook as standard for this yarn, although please be prepared to change your hook size up or down to achieve the correct size/tension. More information about tension is given below.
You will also need 16 stitch markers.
♥ COLOUR NAMES
If you are using the Sunny yarn pack to make this blanket and following my colours, you will need to be familiar with the colours names. The colour name is printed on the yarn ball band. Before you whip the paper labels off your yarn balls, please make sure you take a little snip of yarn and record it's name.
♥ TENSION
Crochet tension and size can vary enormously between each individual, and for blanket making this generally isn't a problem. But if you are using a yarn pack with a set quantity of yarn, you don't want to run out! So please, please do take the time to measure your first square and be prepared to re-make it using a different hook size if necessary.
We are using Stylecraft Special DK yarn for the Sunny blanket and the standard hook size for this yarn is a 4mm. Your finished five-round Sunny granny square will need to measure approximately 10cm across. If your square comes out bigger than 10cm, you will need to switch to a smaller hook size (try a 3.5mm or even a 3mm if your tension is very loose). If your square comes out smaller than 10cm, you are a tight hooker (yes you are!) and will need to switch to a bigger hook size (try a 4.5mm or a 5mm).
The full tutorial for making the Sunny Granny Square can be found HERE. This includes a full explanation of the stitches used plus the pattern with lots of pictures to help. Remember each log cabin square starts with a Sunny Granny Square at the centre.
♥ PATTERN
I am writing the log cabin pattern in UK crochet terms, using the following stitches ::
sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
Throughout the pattern, I will refer to the log cabin strips by their number. The above diagram should help you to understand how the strips are constructed - they follow a methodical pattern, working from the centre outwards ::
Top, Bottom, Left, Right, Top, Bottom, Left, Right etc etc...
Each strip is crocheted in 3 rows of treble crochet (UK tr = US dc).
Right then, shall we begin? You will need to have your first Sunny Granny Square already made, and be happy with your tension and hook size.
:: STRIP 1 :: Spice yarn
:: Begin :: Top. Start in any ch-2 corner space of the granny square.
:: Row 1 :: Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space of granny square and draw through a loop of Spice yarn. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr).
Miss the first stitch (note : it's often quite hard to actually see this first stitch! Your first treble should go where my needle is)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches, then 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space (as in above picture). You should have 17 stitches in total for this strip.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn....
:: Row 2 ::
This is a simple row of treble crochet. Remember you ignore the stitch at the very base of the beginning chain-3.
Work 1 tr into each stitch along. Don't forget your last stitch goes into the top of the chain-3 from the previous row (as shown by my needle in the above picture) - it's quite easy to miss this last stitch so look out for it. You should have 17 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn....
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 stitches (don't forget that last one!).
Fasten off. [17 stitches]
That's Strip 1 made :)
To help you keep on track with crocheting your strips, it's very helpful to mark this first strip so that you can easily tell which way is the Top! Use a secure stitch marker as I have, or tie a little loop of contrasting yarn loosely around one the post of one of your trebles. This marker will stay in place until you come to assemble your squares together.
If you refer to the diagram at the start of the pattern, you will see that strip 2 is directly opposite strip one (at the Bottom). I'm showing you the above picture so you can see what I mean - you will need to turn your square through 180 degrees and begin in the right hand ch-2 space of the granny square (shown by the arrow)
:: STRIP 2 :: Aster yarn
:: Begin :: Bottom (opposite strip 1). Start in the ch-2 corner space of the granny square.
:: Row 1 :: Insert hook into ch-2 corner space of granny square and draw through a loop of Aster yarn. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr).
Miss the first stitch, then work 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches.
Work 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space [17 stitches].
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn....
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each stitch along. Don't forget your last stitch goes into the top of the chain-3 from the previous row. You should have 17 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 stitches (don't forget that last one!)
Fasten off. [17 stitches]
This is what you should have with strips 1 and 2 complete.
Position your square so that the stitch marker (strip 1) is at the top. If you look at the diagram at the start of the pattern, you will see that strip 3 is worked along the Left hand side of the square. So turn your work 90 degrees clockwise ready to crochet strip 3....
:: STRIP 3 :: Claret yarn
:: Begin :: Left Side. Start in the top corner of strip 1 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches. Sometimes patterns will tell you to work around the post of a stitch (which means putting your hook under the stitch). For this pattern, we are going to insert our hook into the actual loops of the stitch. It can be tricky if you've not done it before, especially if you have a tight tension, but it's pretty easy once you get used to it.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch (as in above picture) and pull through a loop of claret yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr).
I'll talk you through each stitch now and show you exactly where to put your hook. The next treble needs to go right into the post of the stitch, towards the bottom (shown by my needle in the above picture)
The third treble needs to go into the top of the next stitch along (shown by my needle in the above picture)
The fourth treble needs to go into the bottom of the stitch (shown by my needle in the above picture)
The fifth treble needs to go into the top of the next stitch along (shown by my needle in the above picture)
The sixth treble needs to go into the very bottom of the stitch (shown by my needle in the above picture)
This is what your six stitches should look like - they are evenly spaced, with two trebles worked into the post of each stitch across the end of strip 1.
Work 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space of the granny square ( as in above picture)
Miss the first stitch.
Work 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches, then 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space.
The last 6 trebles of this row will be worked into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2. Start at the bottom of the first stitch (as shown by my needle in the above picture).
Work 2 trebles into the post of each stitch across the end of strip 2, spacing them as evenly as possible. Remember you aren't going under/around the post, you are putting your hook right into the loops that make up the stitches.
At the end of this row, you should have 29 stitches.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn...
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches. Don't forget your last stitch goes into the top of the chain-3 from the previous row. You should have 29 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches (don't forget that last one!)
Fasten off. [29 stitches]
:: STRIP 4 :: Wisteria yarn
:: Begin :: Right Side (opposite strip 3). Start in the top corner of strip 2 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of wisteria yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr).
Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch) - look back at the pictures for Strip 3 if you need a reminder.
Work 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space.
Miss the next stitch (as shown in the above picture)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 1. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch) - look back at the pictures for Strip 3 if you need a reminder about working into the post of a stitch.
At the end of this row, you should have 29 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches. You should have 29 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches.
Fasten off. [29 stitches]
So that's your first 4 strips made. You should leave all your tail ends to darn in at the end (I leave about 15cm to use for darning). Don't worry too much if your square looks a bit wobbly or your edges aren't ruler-straight.
This is a good time to have a quick tension check - we are aiming for neat, fairly compact rows of treble crochet without too many holes. After 4 strips, my square is measuring approx. 15cm.
We are going to start strip 5 now - this goes at the Top, directly above strip 1 (refer to diagram at the start of the pattern). For this and every other strip, I will always show you a picture of my hook ready to start crocheting, so you can check you are in the right place.
:: STRIP 5 :: Plum yarn
:: Begin :: Top (above strip 1). Start in the top corner of strip 4 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of plum yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr).
Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 4. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
In the above picture, I've used my needle to show you where the next stitch goes....
Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 3. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 28 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches. You should have 28 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches.
Fasten off. [28 stitches]
A little visual of what you should have now, after strip 5 has been completed.
Strip 6 goes down at the bottom, above strip 2, so turn your work 180 degrees ready to begin.
:: STRIP 6 :: Violet yarn
:: Begin :: Bottom (above strip 2). Start in the top corner of strip 3 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of violet yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr).
Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
In the above picture, I've used my needle to show you where the next stitch goes.
Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 4. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 28 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches. You should have 28 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches.
Fasten off. [28 stitches]
This is what you should have in front of you - Strip 7 will be worked on the left hand side now, so turn your work 90 degrees clockwise ready to start.
:: STRIP 7 :: Shrimp yarn
:: Begin :: Left side (above strip 3). Start in the top corner of strip 5 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of shrimp yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 5. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 6. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 40 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches. You should have 40 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches.
Fasten off. [40 stitches]
This is what you should have in front of you - Strip 8 will be worked on the right hand side now, above strip 4, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 8 :: Petrol yarn
:: Begin :: Right side (above strip 4). Start in the top corner of strip 6 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of petrol yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 6. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 5. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 40 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches. You should have 40 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches.
Fasten off. [40 stitches]
We are halfway through making our strips now, how are you finding it so far?
Another quick tension check - my square is measuring 20cm after strip 8.
Ready to get going with strip 9? Refer to the diagram at the beginning of the pattern, strip 9 goes at the Top, directly above strip 5.
:: STRIP 9 :: Magenta yarn
:: Begin :: Top (above strip 5). Start in the top corner of strip 8 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of magenta yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 8. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 7. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 39 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches. You should have 39 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches.
Fasten off. [39 stitches]
Strip 10 goes down at the bottom, above strip 6, so turn your work 180 degrees ready to begin.
:: STRIP 10 :: Meadow yarn
:: Begin :: Bottom (above strip 6). Start in the top corner of strip 7 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of meadow yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 7. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 8. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 39 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches. You should have 39 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches.
Fasten off. [39 stitches]
Everything OK? Strip 11 will go at the Left side, directly above strip 7, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 11 :: Bright Pink yarn
:: Begin :: Left side (above strip 7). Start in the top corner of strip 9 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of bright pink yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 9. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 10. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 51 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches. You should have 51 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches.
Fasten off. [51 stitches]
Strip 12 will go at the Right side, directly above strip 8, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 12 :: Turquoise yarn
:: Begin :: Right side (above strip 8). Start in the top corner of strip 10 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of turquoise yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 10. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 9. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 51 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches. You should have 51 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches.
Fasten off. [51 stitches]
12 strips made, only 4 left to go (yippeeeee!) By now you should be getting into the rhythm of the rows as they are getting longer.
A quick size check - after 12 strips, my square is measuring 26cm. Right, on with strip 13, which is back at the Top, directly above strip 9.
:: STRIP 13 :: Fondant yarn
:: Begin :: Top (above strip 9). Start in the top corner of strip 12 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of fondant yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 12. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 11. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 50 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches. You should have 50 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches.
Fasten off. [50 stitches]
Strip 14 goes at the Bottom, directly above strip 10, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 14 :: Lime yarn
:: Begin :: Bottom (above strip 10). Start in the top corner of strip 11 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of lime yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 11. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 12. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 50 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches. You should have 50 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches.
Fasten off. [50 stitches]
Two more strips to go!! Strip 15 goes at the Left side, directly above strip 11, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 15 :: Lipstick yarn
:: Begin :: Left side (above strip 11). Start in the top corner of strip 13 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of lipstick yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 13. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 14. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 62 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 61 stitches. You should have 62 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 61 stitches.
Fasten off. [62 stitches]
One more strip, you are nearly there!! This last strip goes at the Right side above strip 12, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 16 :: Sage yarn
:: Begin :: Right side (above strip 12). Start in the top corner of strip 14 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of sage yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 14. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 13. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 62 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 61 stitches. You should have 62 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 61 stitches.
Fasten off. [62 stitches]
Happy dance, we are there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
One beautiful Log Cabin Square should be sitting in front of you!!
♥ DARNING ENDS
Now I know you probably don't want to hear this, but it's time to darn in your ends. Don't groan (pleeeeease) - think if this finishing process as the final bit of love that will go into each square. Positive mindset - you can do it!
Uh-ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...........not as pretty as the front!
Lets have a little chat about the darning process for this square. You may have noticed as you've crocheted your strips that a few little holes have occurred here and there - this is especially noticeable at the ends of the strips where you crocheted into the post of the stitches.
When you darn in your ends on the reverse of your work, you can take this opportunity to gently close up any gaping holes. Thread your needle in and out of the stitches, pulling them gently together as you go....
....darn up and down the end of each strip 2 or 3 times (don't overdo it), taking care to keep your tension even and not pulling the stitches too tightly.
When you turn your work back over, you will hopefully see that any little holes have gone, darned away neatly on the reverse.
I know many people dislike darning in the ends - I'm not mad keen on it myself, but have come to accept it as a vital part of the whole. Remember you are creating a work of art and you really don't want it to fall apart!
Once everything has been darned in neatly, this is what you should have - a beautiful (but very slightly wobbly) square. You should check at this point that you still have that stitch marker in place - you need to know which way up your square goes. This will be really important when we come to join the squares together.
♥ BLOCKING
Right, time to give your Log Cabin square a little bit of steam treatment....
If your tension and hook size has all gone to plan throughout, you should end up with a square that is approximately 35cm. I am quite a tight hooker (yes, I know), so I use a 4.5mm hook with this yarn, and I end up with a square that is nearer to 34cm.
You will need to use your own judgement here - you may have a square that is closer to 35cm or even 36cm. That is OK! When you pin your square out to block it, you really don't want to be stretching it to increase it's size, just to straighten the edges, so please don't try and make your square bigger than it's meant to be.
For steam blocking, you will need some pins, an old towel and some sort of foam/board to pin into. You might have a spare room where you can lay down a folded towel and pin directly into your carpet. I use a 1-inch piece of foam with an old towel on the top.
You will need to find a way of measuring/squaring up your crochet. You might just be able to manage with a quilting rule/tape measure, but I find the easiest thing to do for these big squares it to make a cardboard frame. I used an old packing box (I have a husband who hoards cardboard boxes, I kid you not) and cut out a 34cm frame, using Little Lady's set square to make sure the corners were exactly 90 degrees.
You can then pin the crochet into the towel/foam, using the cardboard frame as a guide. Pin each corner first, then work your way round the square, gently easing and stretching the sides straight, pinning as you go.
For steam blocking crochet, it's very important to remember two things :
1. use a COOL IRON, with plenty of steam
2. THE IRON DOES NOT TOUCH THE CROCHET!!!!!
Forgive the capital shouty letters, but this is sooooo important! If you flatten the stitches with too much heat or pressure, they will not recover and you will have ruined your work :(
So put the iron on it's lowest heat setting, and hold it 1 or 2cm above the surface of the crochet, moving the iron around the square and puffing the steam into the crochet. This takes maybe 10 seconds at most, it is a quick process. The crochet will end up damp (but not soggy) so leave it pinned out until it is completely dry - I leave mine over night. Don't take the pins out too soon or the crochet will soon revert back and you will lose your lovely straight sides.
After blocking, your square should lay beautifully flat. Lovely eh?
Two last things to do now ::
1. make sure (again) that your stitch marker is still there in strip 1, telling you which way is the top.
2. Label your square. Use a sticker on the reverse or tie a little label to the corner. You need to make sure you know this is Square Number 1.
What I'm going to do now is give you the colour lists for Squares 1 & 2, followed by a an abbreviated version of the pattern.
SQUARE 1
♥ 1. Spice ♥2. Aster ♥ 3. Claret ♥ 4. Wisteria ♥ 5. Plum ♥
♥ 6. Violet ♥ 7. Shrimp ♥ 8. Petrol ♥ 9. Magenta ♥ 10. Meadow ♥
♥ 11. Bright Pink ♥ 12. Turquoise ♥ 13. Fondant ♥ 14. Lime ♥
♥15. Lipstick ♥ 16. Sage ♥
SQUARE 2
♥ 1. Shrimp ♥2. Meadow ♥ 3. Lime ♥ 4. Spice ♥ 5. Magenta ♥
♥ 6. Sage ♥ 7. Turquoise ♥ 8. Fondant ♥ 9. Bright Pink ♥ 10. Aster ♥
♥ 11. Wisteria ♥ 12. Lipstick ♥ 13. Claret ♥ 14. Petrol ♥
♥15. Violet ♥ 16. Plum ♥
Here is an abbreviated version of the pattern for you to copy/paste/print....
♥ SUNNY LOG CABIN SQUARE ♥
STRIP 1
Begin : Top. Start in any ch-2 corner space of the granny square.
Row 1 : Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space of granny square and draw through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); miss the first st; 1 tr into each of the next 15 sts; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space [17 sts]. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn.
Row 2 : Work 1 tr into each st along [17 sts]. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn.
Row 3 : Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 sts. Fasten off. [17 sts]
(note: attach a stitch marker to the centre of this strip and leave in place)
STRIP 2
Begin : Bottom (opposite strip 1). Start in the ch-2 corner space of the granny square.
Row 1 : Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space of granny square and draw through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); miss the first st; 1 tr into each of the next 15 sts; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space [17 sts]. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn.
Row 2: 1 tr into each st along [17 sts]. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn.
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 16 sts. Fasten off. [17 sts]
STRIP 3
Begin : Left Side. Start in the top corner of strip 1.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert hook into the top of the first stitch post and pull through a loop of claret yarn.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 1, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space; miss the next st;1 tr into each of the next 15 sts; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [29 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 28 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [29 sts]
Row 3 :1 tr into each of the next 28 sts. Fasten off. [29 sts]
STRIP 4
Begin : Right Side (opposite strip 3). Start in the top corner of strip 2.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn cololur.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space; miss the next stitch; 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 1, spacing them evenly; Ch (counts as 1 tr); turn [29 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 28 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [29 sts]
Row 3 :1 tr into each of the next 28 sts. Fasten off. [29 sts]
STRIP 5
Begin : Top (above strip 1). Start in the top corner of strip 4.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 4, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 16 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 3, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [28sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [28sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts. Fasten off. [28 sts]
STRIP 6
Begin : Bottom (above strip 2). Start in the top corner of strip 3
Row 1 :: (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 3, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 16 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 4, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [28 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts; Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr);turn [28 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts. Fasten off [28 sts]
STRIP 7
Begin : Left side (above strip 3). Start in the top corner of strip 5.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 5, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 28 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 6, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [40sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts; Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr);turn [40 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts. Fasten off [40 sts]
STRIP 8
Begin : Right side (above strip 4). Start in the top corner of strip 6.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 6, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 28 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 5, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [40 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts; Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr);turn [40 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts. Fasten off [40 sts]
STRIP 9
Begin : Top (above strip 5). Start in the top corner of strip 8.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr) ; work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 8, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 7, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [39 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [39 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts. Fasten off. [39 sts]
STRIP 10
Begin : Bottom (above strip 6). Start in the top corner of strip 7.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 7, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 8, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [39 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [39 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts. Fasten off. [39 sts]
STRIP 11
Begin : Left side (above strip 7). Start in the top corner of strip 9.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 9, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 10, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [51 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [51 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches. Fasten off. [51 sts]
STRIP 12
Begin : Right side (above strip 8). Start in the top corner of strip 10.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 10, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 9, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [51 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [51 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts. Fasten off. [51 sts]
STRIP 13
Begin : Top (above strip 9). Start in the top corner of strip 12.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 12, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 11, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [50sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 49 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [50 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches. Fasten off. [50 sts]
STRIP 14
Begin : Bottom (above strip 10). Start in the top corner of strip 11.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 11, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 12, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [50sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 49 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [50 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches. Fasten off. [50 sts]
STRIP 15
Begin : Left side (above strip 11). Start in the top corner of strip 13.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 13, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 14, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [62 sts]
Row 2 : 1tr into each of the next 61 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [62 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 61 sts. Fasten off. [62 sts]
STRIP 16
Begin : Right side (above strip 12). Start in the top corner of strip 14.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 14, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 13, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [62 sts]
Row 2 : 1tr into each of the next 61 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [62 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 61 sts. Fasten off. [62 sts]
♥♥
THE SUNNY CROCHET-ALONG
I'll be sharing my blanket making journey here on my blog every Sunday throughout November and December 2015 (starting on 1st November) if you would like to follow my progress and crochet the Sunny Log Cabin blanket along with me.
The Sunny yarn pack is available to buy from my shop with Wool Warehouse.
♥ Sunny Log Cabin Blanket : part 2 (joining and edge)
♥ Sunny Log Cabin - the finished blanket!
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Lucy, your thoughtful and concise instructions are amazing. Thank you for taking the time to spell everything out and take such detailed photos.
Posted by: Kathryn Richards | November 19, 2015 at 01:49 AM
Hi Lucy I've printed the abbreviated version of the pattern and I'm using the detailed version when I need to. I'm on the first square strip 3 row 3 and the detailed version says 28 stitches but the abbreviated version says 29. Which should it be?
Posted by: Bridget | November 16, 2015 at 08:51 AM
Loving the log cabin blanket.
Posted by: Teo | November 15, 2015 at 07:49 PM
Lucy, my square ended up 37cm across. Is that going to be too big?
Posted by: Janet | November 14, 2015 at 04:22 PM
Am surprised at the quality of this yarn. Have never used it before and in the past have had bad experiences with acrylic yarn. Do you wash the blankets or dry clean them? Very excited about the project and getting ready to order more yarn
Posted by: Charlotte | November 09, 2015 at 10:03 PM
Hoping I can participate, but with the PayPal or credit card currency exchange things, I'm not sure if I will. I hope it all turns out though!
Posted by: Miri Faye | November 02, 2015 at 11:05 PM
i have just ordered my box of yarn to do this cal with you all, love all your crochet, happy to be able to do this one with you, many thanks, Danielle.
Posted by: danielle harris | November 02, 2015 at 12:34 PM
Think I might have to give this one a try! What better way to add a little cheer to the grey days ahead than with a beautiful rainbow splash in the yarn basket. Have to play catch up as I won't be able to order my kit til next week but I'm sure the vibrant colours will encourage me to catch up quickly.
Posted by: Sarah-Jayne Bisley | November 02, 2015 at 11:55 AM
All set to go, can't wait :) The bright colours will make these dark days go quicker
Posted by: Siobhan Spurle | October 30, 2015 at 04:11 PM
Looking forward to this CAL
Posted by: Vera Hopkinson | October 28, 2015 at 06:15 PM
Ordered the yarn cannot wait to start this cal.
Posted by: Teo | October 28, 2015 at 03:51 PM
I would love to make the log cabin blanket so much, but I think it'll have to wait, too many other projects to finish before Christmas! I think I'll save it for January when I'll need the bright colours to get me through the grey days.
Posted by: Emma | October 27, 2015 at 05:15 PM
I've ordered mine, hope it gets to me in Australia before we start, a tad excited as this is the first one I have participated in.
Posted by: Karen Thornton | October 26, 2015 at 04:57 AM
It took two weeks instead of usual one week to get my yarn. boy was I anxious. I have it and am now ready to start. Love the Citron color. wish you had used more of it in this blanket. I love yellow. I love the brightness it brings to things. Now I just have to finish the cozy blanket by November 1. Lol
Posted by: Margit kidd | October 24, 2015 at 04:00 PM
Hi I'd love to do this but want to make sure I can print out the cal each week as for some reason I am able to follow them better that way, when I order the wool box kit do I get a link or web address etc then? Thanks in advance.
Posted by: Danielle | October 23, 2015 at 03:45 PM
Just love the colours you use and would like to join the group for this cal. I have ordered the kit but not sure how long it will take to get to NZ. But as soon as it does I will be crocheting along.
Posted by: Doreen | October 21, 2015 at 07:03 AM
Hi Lucy, like many others I absolutely love your colours and have ordered the pack - however would love to see the pattern as would like to get going on this one as soon as I finish my current project.
Posted by: Chelle Liennard | October 19, 2015 at 01:58 PM
Lucy...where is the pattern for this beautiful blanket. I ordered the yarn pack and cant wait to start the blanket. Cant find it on ravelry.....help!
Looking forward to your answer....
Claudia
Posted by: Claudia Smith | October 15, 2015 at 04:04 PM
Love the new colors. I coul duse some suggestions on how to use the colors in the striped blanklet. I love the pattern for the Cozy stripe blaket and want to do it again using these new colors.How should the colors be arranged?
Posted by: arlene | October 08, 2015 at 04:54 PM
Beuatiful colors. i will make the cozy stripe patern out of these new colors. Any comment on how the colors should be arranged for the striping
Posted by: arlene | October 08, 2015 at 04:49 PM
Yippee! Lucy, I just bought one of the Sunny packs! I figure before the CAL starts I can buy another one!! I love the colors so much on this blanket!!!
xxxxxx
Robin from the USA
Posted by: Robin Summers | October 03, 2015 at 07:05 PM
I will definately be buying this Pack! I might have to make two of them. The colors are brilliant!
Posted by: Robin Summers | September 28, 2015 at 08:21 PM
Wspaniały pomysł na wykorzystanie resztek włóczek. Gratuluję pomysłu!
Posted by: [email protected] | September 26, 2015 at 03:03 PM
oh yes and how big will it be?
Marla (again)
Posted by: Marla Benabdallah | September 26, 2015 at 05:49 AM
how much will the yarn pack be? I am in Canada. The shipping looks reasonable.
Posted by: Marla Benabdallah | September 26, 2015 at 05:38 AM