These big, bold squares of mine have been giving me a huge amount of pleasure as I've worked with these glorious colours, oh the colours! I think I did good when I chose the word "Sunny" for this palette of 18 colours, they are so warm, vibrant and joyful, a real pleasure for my Summer-loving soul.
♥ PATTERN INFORMATION
These Sunny Log Cabin squares will eventually become a large blanket/throw. There will be 16 squares in total (in a 4 x 4 format) with each square measuring approx. 35cm.
The finished blanket will measure approx. 150cm square.
My design for these blocks is inspired by traditional Log Cabin quilts, you can read more about it in this post. Each square starts with a Sunny Granny Square at it's centre, then has 16 strips crocheted in layers to build up the square. The construction of these strips is based on the "Courthouse Steps" log cabin design, although I'm not ordering my colours in the traditional courthouse step way - my design is a hybrid all of it's own :)
♥ MATERIALS
Attic24 Sunny Yarn Pack – 18 x 100g balls Stylecraft Special DK in the following colours:
Claret, Lipstick, Bright Pink, Magenta, Fondant, Shrimp, Spice, Gold, Citron, Lime, Meadow, Sage, Petrol, Aster, Turquoise, Wisteria, Violet, Plum.
You will need a 4mm hook as standard for this yarn, although please be prepared to change your hook size up or down to achieve the correct size/tension. More information about tension is given below.
You will also need 16 stitch markers.
♥ COLOUR NAMES
If you are using the Sunny yarn pack to make this blanket and following my colours, you will need to be familiar with the colours names. The colour name is printed on the yarn ball band. Before you whip the paper labels off your yarn balls, please make sure you take a little snip of yarn and record it's name.
♥ TENSION
Crochet tension and size can vary enormously between each individual, and for blanket making this generally isn't a problem. But if you are using a yarn pack with a set quantity of yarn, you don't want to run out! So please, please do take the time to measure your first square and be prepared to re-make it using a different hook size if necessary.
We are using Stylecraft Special DK yarn for the Sunny blanket and the standard hook size for this yarn is a 4mm. Your finished five-round Sunny granny square will need to measure approximately 10cm across. If your square comes out bigger than 10cm, you will need to switch to a smaller hook size (try a 3.5mm or even a 3mm if your tension is very loose). If your square comes out smaller than 10cm, you are a tight hooker (yes you are!) and will need to switch to a bigger hook size (try a 4.5mm or a 5mm).
The full tutorial for making the Sunny Granny Square can be found HERE. This includes a full explanation of the stitches used plus the pattern with lots of pictures to help. Remember each log cabin square starts with a Sunny Granny Square at the centre.
♥ PATTERN
I am writing the log cabin pattern in UK crochet terms, using the following stitches ::
sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
Throughout the pattern, I will refer to the log cabin strips by their number. The above diagram should help you to understand how the strips are constructed - they follow a methodical pattern, working from the centre outwards ::
Top, Bottom, Left, Right, Top, Bottom, Left, Right etc etc...
Each strip is crocheted in 3 rows of treble crochet (UK tr = US dc).
Right then, shall we begin? You will need to have your first Sunny Granny Square already made, and be happy with your tension and hook size.
:: STRIP 1 :: Spice yarn
:: Begin :: Top. Start in any ch-2 corner space of the granny square.
:: Row 1 :: Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space of granny square and draw through a loop of Spice yarn. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr).
Miss the first stitch (note : it's often quite hard to actually see this first stitch! Your first treble should go where my needle is)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches, then 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space (as in above picture). You should have 17 stitches in total for this strip.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn....
:: Row 2 ::
This is a simple row of treble crochet. Remember you ignore the stitch at the very base of the beginning chain-3.
Work 1 tr into each stitch along. Don't forget your last stitch goes into the top of the chain-3 from the previous row (as shown by my needle in the above picture) - it's quite easy to miss this last stitch so look out for it. You should have 17 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn....
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 stitches (don't forget that last one!).
Fasten off. [17 stitches]
That's Strip 1 made :)
To help you keep on track with crocheting your strips, it's very helpful to mark this first strip so that you can easily tell which way is the Top! Use a secure stitch marker as I have, or tie a little loop of contrasting yarn loosely around one the post of one of your trebles. This marker will stay in place until you come to assemble your squares together.
If you refer to the diagram at the start of the pattern, you will see that strip 2 is directly opposite strip one (at the Bottom). I'm showing you the above picture so you can see what I mean - you will need to turn your square through 180 degrees and begin in the right hand ch-2 space of the granny square (shown by the arrow)
:: STRIP 2 :: Aster yarn
:: Begin :: Bottom (opposite strip 1). Start in the ch-2 corner space of the granny square.
:: Row 1 :: Insert hook into ch-2 corner space of granny square and draw through a loop of Aster yarn. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr).
Miss the first stitch, then work 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches.
Work 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space [17 stitches].
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn....
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each stitch along. Don't forget your last stitch goes into the top of the chain-3 from the previous row. You should have 17 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 stitches (don't forget that last one!)
Fasten off. [17 stitches]
This is what you should have with strips 1 and 2 complete.
Position your square so that the stitch marker (strip 1) is at the top. If you look at the diagram at the start of the pattern, you will see that strip 3 is worked along the Left hand side of the square. So turn your work 90 degrees clockwise ready to crochet strip 3....
:: STRIP 3 :: Claret yarn
:: Begin :: Left Side. Start in the top corner of strip 1 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches. Sometimes patterns will tell you to work around the post of a stitch (which means putting your hook under the stitch). For this pattern, we are going to insert our hook into the actual loops of the stitch. It can be tricky if you've not done it before, especially if you have a tight tension, but it's pretty easy once you get used to it.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch (as in above picture) and pull through a loop of claret yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr).
I'll talk you through each stitch now and show you exactly where to put your hook. The next treble needs to go right into the post of the stitch, towards the bottom (shown by my needle in the above picture)
The third treble needs to go into the top of the next stitch along (shown by my needle in the above picture)
The fourth treble needs to go into the bottom of the stitch (shown by my needle in the above picture)
The fifth treble needs to go into the top of the next stitch along (shown by my needle in the above picture)
The sixth treble needs to go into the very bottom of the stitch (shown by my needle in the above picture)
This is what your six stitches should look like - they are evenly spaced, with two trebles worked into the post of each stitch across the end of strip 1.
Work 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space of the granny square ( as in above picture)
Miss the first stitch.
Work 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches, then 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space.
The last 6 trebles of this row will be worked into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2. Start at the bottom of the first stitch (as shown by my needle in the above picture).
Work 2 trebles into the post of each stitch across the end of strip 2, spacing them as evenly as possible. Remember you aren't going under/around the post, you are putting your hook right into the loops that make up the stitches.
At the end of this row, you should have 29 stitches.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn...
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches. Don't forget your last stitch goes into the top of the chain-3 from the previous row. You should have 29 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches (don't forget that last one!)
Fasten off. [29 stitches]
:: STRIP 4 :: Wisteria yarn
:: Begin :: Right Side (opposite strip 3). Start in the top corner of strip 2 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of wisteria yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr).
Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch) - look back at the pictures for Strip 3 if you need a reminder.
Work 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space.
Miss the next stitch (as shown in the above picture)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 1. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch) - look back at the pictures for Strip 3 if you need a reminder about working into the post of a stitch.
At the end of this row, you should have 29 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches. You should have 29 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches.
Fasten off. [29 stitches]
So that's your first 4 strips made. You should leave all your tail ends to darn in at the end (I leave about 15cm to use for darning). Don't worry too much if your square looks a bit wobbly or your edges aren't ruler-straight.
This is a good time to have a quick tension check - we are aiming for neat, fairly compact rows of treble crochet without too many holes. After 4 strips, my square is measuring approx. 15cm.
We are going to start strip 5 now - this goes at the Top, directly above strip 1 (refer to diagram at the start of the pattern). For this and every other strip, I will always show you a picture of my hook ready to start crocheting, so you can check you are in the right place.
:: STRIP 5 :: Plum yarn
:: Begin :: Top (above strip 1). Start in the top corner of strip 4 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of plum yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr).
Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 4. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
In the above picture, I've used my needle to show you where the next stitch goes....
Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 3. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 28 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches. You should have 28 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches.
Fasten off. [28 stitches]
A little visual of what you should have now, after strip 5 has been completed.
Strip 6 goes down at the bottom, above strip 2, so turn your work 180 degrees ready to begin.
:: STRIP 6 :: Violet yarn
:: Begin :: Bottom (above strip 2). Start in the top corner of strip 3 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of violet yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr).
Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
In the above picture, I've used my needle to show you where the next stitch goes.
Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 4. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 28 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches. You should have 28 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches.
Fasten off. [28 stitches]
This is what you should have in front of you - Strip 7 will be worked on the left hand side now, so turn your work 90 degrees clockwise ready to start.
:: STRIP 7 :: Shrimp yarn
:: Begin :: Left side (above strip 3). Start in the top corner of strip 5 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of shrimp yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 5. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 6. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 40 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches. You should have 40 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches.
Fasten off. [40 stitches]
This is what you should have in front of you - Strip 8 will be worked on the right hand side now, above strip 4, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 8 :: Petrol yarn
:: Begin :: Right side (above strip 4). Start in the top corner of strip 6 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of petrol yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 6. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 28 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 5. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 40 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches. You should have 40 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches.
Fasten off. [40 stitches]
We are halfway through making our strips now, how are you finding it so far?
Another quick tension check - my square is measuring 20cm after strip 8.
Ready to get going with strip 9? Refer to the diagram at the beginning of the pattern, strip 9 goes at the Top, directly above strip 5.
:: STRIP 9 :: Magenta yarn
:: Begin :: Top (above strip 5). Start in the top corner of strip 8 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of magenta yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 8. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 7. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 39 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches. You should have 39 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches.
Fasten off. [39 stitches]
Strip 10 goes down at the bottom, above strip 6, so turn your work 180 degrees ready to begin.
:: STRIP 10 :: Meadow yarn
:: Begin :: Bottom (above strip 6). Start in the top corner of strip 7 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of meadow yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 7. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 27 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 8. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 39 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches. You should have 39 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches.
Fasten off. [39 stitches]
Everything OK? Strip 11 will go at the Left side, directly above strip 7, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 11 :: Bright Pink yarn
:: Begin :: Left side (above strip 7). Start in the top corner of strip 9 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of bright pink yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 9. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 10. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 51 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches. You should have 51 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches.
Fasten off. [51 stitches]
Strip 12 will go at the Right side, directly above strip 8, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 12 :: Turquoise yarn
:: Begin :: Right side (above strip 8). Start in the top corner of strip 10 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of turquoise yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 10. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 39 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 9. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 51 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches. You should have 51 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches.
Fasten off. [51 stitches]
12 strips made, only 4 left to go (yippeeeee!) By now you should be getting into the rhythm of the rows as they are getting longer.
A quick size check - after 12 strips, my square is measuring 26cm. Right, on with strip 13, which is back at the Top, directly above strip 9.
:: STRIP 13 :: Fondant yarn
:: Begin :: Top (above strip 9). Start in the top corner of strip 12 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of fondant yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 12. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 11. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 50 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches. You should have 50 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches.
Fasten off. [50 stitches]
Strip 14 goes at the Bottom, directly above strip 10, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 14 :: Lime yarn
:: Begin :: Bottom (above strip 10). Start in the top corner of strip 11 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of lime yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 11. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 38 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 12. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 50 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches. You should have 50 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches.
Fasten off. [50 stitches]
Two more strips to go!! Strip 15 goes at the Left side, directly above strip 11, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 15 :: Lipstick yarn
:: Begin :: Left side (above strip 11). Start in the top corner of strip 13 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of lipstick yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 13. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 14. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 62 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 61 stitches. You should have 62 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 61 stitches.
Fasten off. [62 stitches]
One more strip, you are nearly there!! This last strip goes at the Right side above strip 12, so turn your work ready to start.
:: STRIP 16 :: Sage yarn
:: Begin :: Right side (above strip 12). Start in the top corner of strip 14 (shown by my hook)
:: Row 1 :: The first 6 trebles of this row are worked into the post of the stitches.
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of sage yarn.
Chain 3 (counts a 1 tr). Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 14. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
Work 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches.
Work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 13. Space them evenly (2 tr's for each stitch)
At the end of this row, you should have 62 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 2 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 61 stitches. You should have 62 stitches in total.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) and turn.
:: Row 3 ::
Work 1 tr into each of the next 61 stitches.
Fasten off. [62 stitches]
Happy dance, we are there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
One beautiful Log Cabin Square should be sitting in front of you!!
♥ DARNING ENDS
Now I know you probably don't want to hear this, but it's time to darn in your ends. Don't groan (pleeeeease) - think if this finishing process as the final bit of love that will go into each square. Positive mindset - you can do it!
Uh-ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...........not as pretty as the front!
Lets have a little chat about the darning process for this square. You may have noticed as you've crocheted your strips that a few little holes have occurred here and there - this is especially noticeable at the ends of the strips where you crocheted into the post of the stitches.
When you darn in your ends on the reverse of your work, you can take this opportunity to gently close up any gaping holes. Thread your needle in and out of the stitches, pulling them gently together as you go....
....darn up and down the end of each strip 2 or 3 times (don't overdo it), taking care to keep your tension even and not pulling the stitches too tightly.
When you turn your work back over, you will hopefully see that any little holes have gone, darned away neatly on the reverse.
I know many people dislike darning in the ends - I'm not mad keen on it myself, but have come to accept it as a vital part of the whole. Remember you are creating a work of art and you really don't want it to fall apart!
Once everything has been darned in neatly, this is what you should have - a beautiful (but very slightly wobbly) square. You should check at this point that you still have that stitch marker in place - you need to know which way up your square goes. This will be really important when we come to join the squares together.
♥ BLOCKING
Right, time to give your Log Cabin square a little bit of steam treatment....
If your tension and hook size has all gone to plan throughout, you should end up with a square that is approximately 35cm. I am quite a tight hooker (yes, I know), so I use a 4.5mm hook with this yarn, and I end up with a square that is nearer to 34cm.
You will need to use your own judgement here - you may have a square that is closer to 35cm or even 36cm. That is OK! When you pin your square out to block it, you really don't want to be stretching it to increase it's size, just to straighten the edges, so please don't try and make your square bigger than it's meant to be.
For steam blocking, you will need some pins, an old towel and some sort of foam/board to pin into. You might have a spare room where you can lay down a folded towel and pin directly into your carpet. I use a 1-inch piece of foam with an old towel on the top.
You will need to find a way of measuring/squaring up your crochet. You might just be able to manage with a quilting rule/tape measure, but I find the easiest thing to do for these big squares it to make a cardboard frame. I used an old packing box (I have a husband who hoards cardboard boxes, I kid you not) and cut out a 34cm frame, using Little Lady's set square to make sure the corners were exactly 90 degrees.
You can then pin the crochet into the towel/foam, using the cardboard frame as a guide. Pin each corner first, then work your way round the square, gently easing and stretching the sides straight, pinning as you go.
For steam blocking crochet, it's very important to remember two things :
1. use a COOL IRON, with plenty of steam
2. THE IRON DOES NOT TOUCH THE CROCHET!!!!!
Forgive the capital shouty letters, but this is sooooo important! If you flatten the stitches with too much heat or pressure, they will not recover and you will have ruined your work :(
So put the iron on it's lowest heat setting, and hold it 1 or 2cm above the surface of the crochet, moving the iron around the square and puffing the steam into the crochet. This takes maybe 10 seconds at most, it is a quick process. The crochet will end up damp (but not soggy) so leave it pinned out until it is completely dry - I leave mine over night. Don't take the pins out too soon or the crochet will soon revert back and you will lose your lovely straight sides.
After blocking, your square should lay beautifully flat. Lovely eh?
Two last things to do now ::
1. make sure (again) that your stitch marker is still there in strip 1, telling you which way is the top.
2. Label your square. Use a sticker on the reverse or tie a little label to the corner. You need to make sure you know this is Square Number 1.
What I'm going to do now is give you the colour lists for Squares 1 & 2, followed by a an abbreviated version of the pattern.
SQUARE 1
♥ 1. Spice ♥2. Aster ♥ 3. Claret ♥ 4. Wisteria ♥ 5. Plum ♥
♥ 6. Violet ♥ 7. Shrimp ♥ 8. Petrol ♥ 9. Magenta ♥ 10. Meadow ♥
♥ 11. Bright Pink ♥ 12. Turquoise ♥ 13. Fondant ♥ 14. Lime ♥
♥15. Lipstick ♥ 16. Sage ♥
SQUARE 2
♥ 1. Shrimp ♥2. Meadow ♥ 3. Lime ♥ 4. Spice ♥ 5. Magenta ♥
♥ 6. Sage ♥ 7. Turquoise ♥ 8. Fondant ♥ 9. Bright Pink ♥ 10. Aster ♥
♥ 11. Wisteria ♥ 12. Lipstick ♥ 13. Claret ♥ 14. Petrol ♥
♥15. Violet ♥ 16. Plum ♥
Here is an abbreviated version of the pattern for you to copy/paste/print....
♥ SUNNY LOG CABIN SQUARE ♥
STRIP 1
Begin : Top. Start in any ch-2 corner space of the granny square.
Row 1 : Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space of granny square and draw through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); miss the first st; 1 tr into each of the next 15 sts; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space [17 sts]. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn.
Row 2 : Work 1 tr into each st along [17 sts]. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn.
Row 3 : Work 1 tr into each of the next 16 sts. Fasten off. [17 sts]
(note: attach a stitch marker to the centre of this strip and leave in place)
STRIP 2
Begin : Bottom (opposite strip 1). Start in the ch-2 corner space of the granny square.
Row 1 : Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space of granny square and draw through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); miss the first st; 1 tr into each of the next 15 sts; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space [17 sts]. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn.
Row 2: 1 tr into each st along [17 sts]. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn.
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 16 sts. Fasten off. [17 sts]
STRIP 3
Begin : Left Side. Start in the top corner of strip 1.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert hook into the top of the first stitch post and pull through a loop of claret yarn.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 1, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space; miss the next st;1 tr into each of the next 15 sts; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [29 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 28 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [29 sts]
Row 3 :1 tr into each of the next 28 sts. Fasten off. [29 sts]
STRIP 4
Begin : Right Side (opposite strip 3). Start in the top corner of strip 2.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn cololur.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); Work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 2, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space; miss the next stitch; 1 tr into each of the next 15 stitches; 1 tr into the ch-2 corner space; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 1, spacing them evenly; Ch (counts as 1 tr); turn [29 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 28 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [29 sts]
Row 3 :1 tr into each of the next 28 sts. Fasten off. [29 sts]
STRIP 5
Begin : Top (above strip 1). Start in the top corner of strip 4.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 4, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 16 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 3, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [28sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [28sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts. Fasten off. [28 sts]
STRIP 6
Begin : Bottom (above strip 2). Start in the top corner of strip 3
Row 1 :: (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 3, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 16 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 4, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [28 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts; Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr);turn [28 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts. Fasten off [28 sts]
STRIP 7
Begin : Left side (above strip 3). Start in the top corner of strip 5.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 5, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 28 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 6, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [40sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts; Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr);turn [40 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts. Fasten off [40 sts]
STRIP 8
Begin : Right side (above strip 4). Start in the top corner of strip 6.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 6, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 28 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 5, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [40 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts; Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr);turn [40 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts. Fasten off [40 sts]
STRIP 9
Begin : Top (above strip 5). Start in the top corner of strip 8.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr) ; work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 8, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 7, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [39 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [39 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts. Fasten off. [39 sts]
STRIP 10
Begin : Bottom (above strip 6). Start in the top corner of strip 7.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 7, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 27 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 8, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [39 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [39 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts. Fasten off. [39 sts]
STRIP 11
Begin : Left side (above strip 7). Start in the top corner of strip 9.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 9, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 10, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [51 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [51 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 50 stitches. Fasten off. [51 sts]
STRIP 12
Begin : Right side (above strip 8). Start in the top corner of strip 10.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 10, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 39 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 9, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [51 sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [51 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts. Fasten off. [51 sts]
STRIP 13
Begin : Top (above strip 9). Start in the top corner of strip 12.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 12, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 11, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [50sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 49 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [50 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches. Fasten off. [50 sts]
STRIP 14
Begin : Bottom (above strip 10). Start in the top corner of strip 11.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 11, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 38 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 12, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [50sts]
Row 2 : 1 tr into each of the next 49 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [50 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 49 stitches. Fasten off. [50 sts]
STRIP 15
Begin : Left side (above strip 11). Start in the top corner of strip 13.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 13, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 14, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [62 sts]
Row 2 : 1tr into each of the next 61 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [62 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 61 sts. Fasten off. [62 sts]
STRIP 16
Begin : Right side (above strip 12). Start in the top corner of strip 14.
Row 1 : (note: the first 6 tr's of this row are worked into the post of the stitches)
Insert your hook into the very top of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn colour.
Ch 3 (counts a 1 tr); work 5 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 14, spacing them evenly; 1 tr into each of the next 50 sts; work 6 tr's into the post of the stitches across the end of strip 13, spacing them evenly; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [62 sts]
Row 2 : 1tr into each of the next 61 sts; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); turn [62 sts]
Row 3 : 1 tr into each of the next 61 sts. Fasten off. [62 sts]
♥♥
THE SUNNY CROCHET-ALONG
I'll be sharing my blanket making journey here on my blog every Sunday throughout November and December 2015 (starting on 1st November) if you would like to follow my progress and crochet the Sunny Log Cabin blanket along with me.
The Sunny yarn pack is available to buy from my shop with Wool Warehouse.
♥ Sunny Log Cabin Blanket : part 2 (joining and edge)
♥ Sunny Log Cabin - the finished blanket!
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Great content.
Posted by: Divyanshu | July 01, 2021 at 04:59 AM
Thanks for the sharing- much appreciated
Posted by: TAGAYTAY HIGHLANDS | December 09, 2020 at 05:11 AM
I just found this (and YOU) and I'm so very glad I did....this is gorgeous. You do phenomenal work
Posted by: Bev | February 11, 2019 at 03:34 PM
Hi Lucy,
After many years struggling to crochet I seem to have finally cracked it. But I have one major problem. I'm left handed and so everything I crochet is the other way round.
I follow your patterns because they are explained so brilliantly and I can understand your photos too.
However, I'm desperate to make your sunny log cabin blanket and I've realised that if I do it left handed I will be constantly working in the wrong direction! I would somehow have to compose each of the 16 squares backwards! It's hard to explain, but do you see what I mean?
Can you give any ideas/pointers/advice?
Posted by: Liz Wheelhouse | October 20, 2018 at 04:29 PM
Love the look of the log cabin pattern
Posted by: Dianne | May 03, 2018 at 07:04 AM
Such a lovely blanket! This type of log cabin square is also called 'Courthouse Steps', as the increases on opposite sides look like stair steps. Of course, I'm putting this pattern on my ever-growing crochet to-do list! Thank you for another lovely pattern.
Posted by: Jean Blythe | August 06, 2017 at 06:33 PM
I have started my blanker sunny log . is there only two squares of the various colour or is every square different I only see the two on your site. oblige Margaret
Posted by: margaret | October 01, 2016 at 12:54 PM
Dear Lucy,
you are an inspiration, if only day would have more than 24 houres... I really would like to do this blanket to, it is so lovely and you explanation is so clear. I wish you a lot of lovely projects to share with us.
P.s.
I am aloso a mother of the children and my hoby an my relax is crochet.
Have a nice day!
Simona
Posted by: Simona | September 07, 2016 at 11:26 AM
Infinally ordered my yarn for this beauty today (plus some extras, of course :). I was a little worried that this may be too much for me to handle right now, but Queen Lucy's instructions are so simple that I believe I can follow :)
Thank you again Lucy for sharing your many precious gifts with us all. When I grow up I want to be just like you :) xxx
Posted by: Lisa McGraw | September 02, 2016 at 10:43 PM
received my wool for this blanket but n step by step instructions got it up on the pc but no wmargarethere for me to print it off please help thank u
Posted by: margaret | August 24, 2016 at 01:51 AM
What size is a 4mm hook in US hook size?
Posted by: Roseann Walls | August 15, 2016 at 02:02 AM
Hi Lucy I adore this blanket and I am planning to make it in my own colourway. I won't be starting it for a bit yet but I am enjoying choosing the colours.As I want it to be heirloom quality I plan to make it in natural fibre (either cotton or wool -cascade have brilliant colours)Do you think I need the whole range of 16 colours plus the centre to get the full effect? Thanks
Posted by: Rowena Corlett | April 21, 2016 at 09:31 AM
Hi!
Thank you so much for this wonderful pattern :)
Would it be okay with you if I write a Dutch translation for this pattern on my blog? Crocheting is becoming quite popular in my country, but many people have trouble reading English patterns and I really like helping them out. Please let me know. I will ofcourse reference to your blog (many times) and also to your yarn shop. I won't be making any money of of your wonderful project, just want to share the colorful love :)
Kind regards,
Iris van Meer
Posted by: Iris van Meer | April 07, 2016 at 08:50 AM
Dear Lucy, I have just finished making this sunny log cabin blanket and love it! I have never made a crocheted blanket before and am now definitely addicted! I have just ordered the wool for the harmony blanket, like the sunny log cabin, the colours look great together!
Thank you for the design and colour combinations!
Posted by: Judith Bailey | February 06, 2016 at 06:56 AM
Hi Lucy.
I found your blog lately & I'm addicted.
I just LOVE your wonderful patterns. Am totally inspired. I came across your log cabin pattern in the New Year & couldn't wait to start.
I'm just back from a little break in Lanzarote & was the only one with 16 balls of wool on the lie low at the pool. All squares are now finished so must start the sewing together.
Thanks again for the inspiration.
Catherine
Posted by: Catherine Schafer | February 05, 2016 at 11:23 PM
Thank you so much Lucy for this wonderful CAL! I have had so much fun to follow you, looking for each sunday to discover four new squares. My blanket is finished now and I can say, as you do, that it's a tadahhhhh moment!
I don't have the habit to crochet or knit such colours. I have loved it!
Anne-Claude (campanule on Ravelry)
Posted by: Anne-Claude Wyss | January 31, 2016 at 03:35 PM
Hi Lucy,
I too was one of those people who didn't immediately fall in love with the Sunny Log Cabin Blanket (as I have with ALL of your others!) but when I saw it finished, I was WOWED! It looks amazing! The creativity and thought you have put into this design is impressive and inspiring. This is proper heirloom material! I'm going to make it for a new family member, due to come into the world on 9th February. Thank you so much for sharing so much with us.
Lorraine (Dollar,Scotland)
Posted by: Lorraine Graham | January 22, 2016 at 09:02 PM
Hi Lucy - I was one of the people who did not like this blanket when I first saw the squares. Having seen the ta-dah, I love it and I am going to order the wool today.
Posted by: Jane | January 19, 2016 at 07:43 AM
Love the colours, ordered the pack and was delighted when it took only two weeks to get to Australia, even with Christmas and New Years holidays
Posted by: debbie | January 09, 2016 at 06:32 AM
Lucy I loved both your sunny stripe and log pattern so purchased 2 packs from wool warehouse as noticed I had some leftover, I have started a single bed sized throw using moogly,s pattern of the blackberry striped blanket involving the popcorn stitch which is the first time I have used this and it's brilliant in your lovely sunny colours and throughly recommend you try this. Next on my list is your harmony blanket until you make your next one, I am addicted to your patterns please continue x
Posted by: Jo | January 07, 2016 at 12:44 PM
Hi Lucy,
I have done most of your crochet blankets. Received the wool from your shop to do the log cabin blanket looking forward to starting it. Just wondering if you have time. I noticed you had the bb blanket and then I went to have a look and it wasn't there the next day would it be possible ho get the pattern off you as I like crocheting different blankets
Thanks Joanne
Posted by: Joanne Garratt | December 04, 2015 at 09:18 AM
This might be a really stupid question but I've darned in my ends but do you have to knot it to anything.....
I kinda never do ends, or finish anything. ha.
First time for everything.
Posted by: Adeva Hopkins | November 23, 2015 at 09:16 PM
My granny square was spot on with measurements but after doing the 4 side colours my square now measures 16.5cm, will this use too much yarn? Should I carry on or undo it and start again? Should I change hooks to a smaller size? Help needed please
Posted by: Dorothy Bradbury | November 23, 2015 at 05:40 PM
So so beautiful! This blanket is really lovely Lucy! Log cabin was the first quilt i made when I was jung, so this pattern is one of my favorite :) thank you for such a lovely tut!!
Posted by: giusy - bubiknits | November 23, 2015 at 05:29 AM
Lucy, your thoughtful and concise instructions are amazing. Thank you for taking the time to spell everything out and take such detailed photos.
Posted by: Kathryn Richards | November 19, 2015 at 01:49 AM