Starbright Blanket

This is my Starbright blanket, inspired by nostalgic memories of my childhood Christmases. Think foil wrapped chocolates, twinkling fairy lights, brightly coloured baubles and garlands. These festive brights are set against the deep blues of a starry night sky, creating a blanket full of winter magic. You can read all about my design inspiration and the making of Starbright by clicking o the following link >>

STARBRIGHT BLOG POST

The Starbright square is crocheted in 7 rounds, and there are six different colours in each square. The seventh and final round incorporates the join-as-you-go method of attaching the squares and building the blanket in rows.

In this tutorial I'm going to walk you through making a 7-round square - this can be measured and used to check your tension and sizing. I then explain in detail (with lots of photos) how to join your squares together using the join-as-you-go method. At the end of the tutorial, I've written out the basic pattern for you to make the squares so that you can copy/paste/print in a word document if you wish, and keep this for reference. A reminder that if you buy the Starbright yarn pack from Wool Warehouse, it includes a 12 page A4 printed pattern.

MATERIALS

For my blankets I use Stylecraft Special DK which is a 100% premium acrylic yarn. It's lovely to work with, comes in generous 100g balls and the finished blankets are warm, soft and machine washable. 

As is usual for my blankets, I've chose fifteen shades of Stylecraft Special DK for my Starbright blanket

Top row :

♥ Gold ♥  Magenta ♥  Fuchsia Purple ♥  Pomegranate ♥  Lipstick ♥

Middle row :

♥ Apple ♥ Kelly Green ♥ Empire ♥ Teal ♥ Bottle ♥

Bottom row :

♥ Turquoise ♥ Aster ♥  Lapis ♥ Lobelia ♥ French Navy ♥

You can find the Starbright yarn pack in my shop at Wool Warehouse, click on the following link...

STARBRIGHT YARN PACK *

*the yarn pack contains a 12 page full colour A4 printed pattern 

HOOK SIZE  and TENSION

The standard hook size for Stylecraft Special DK yarn is 4mm. However, it's a good idea to be familiar with your own personal tension and experiment with moving to a larger or smaller hook to achieve a neat result. If you crochet loosely you can reduce your hook size to 3.5mm. Similarly, if your tension tends to feel quite tight, you can increase your hook size to 4.5mm or 5mm to achieve the correct size square. 

SIZE

A completed seven round Starbright square should measure approx.13 cm square. It wants to feel quite compact, not too floppy or holey.

The finished blanket measures approximately 130 cm x 130 cm.

PATTERN NOTES

Each square is crocheted in seven rounds; the seventh round is worked using the join-as-you-go technique.

There are 81 squares in total, arranged in a 9 x 9 format.

This pattern works best if approached in a methodical way, working one horizontal strip at a time (which is 9 squares), then joining them together before starting work on the next horizontal strip.

There is a PDF worksheet which you can download, showing the placement and six colours needed for each square.

Once all 81 squares have been made and joined, a border is worked to complete the blanket.

DOWNLOAD STARBRIGHT WORKSHEET

Colour names

A little reminder that you get to know the colour names so that you can identify them correctly when reading the worksheets! The colour name is printed on the yarn ball band. Before you whip the paper labels off your yarn balls, please make sure you take a little snip of yarn and record it's name. The dark blues in this colour palette are especially easy to mix up, so keep an eye on the Lapis, Lobelia and French Navy.

STARBRIGHT PATTERN

I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :

sl st [slip stitch] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.

dc [double crochet] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] = yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

v-st [a simple v-stitch] where 2 trebles (US dc stitch) are worked into the same space (no chain space between). When v-stitches stack on top of each other, they are worked into the space between the two trebles which make up the v-stitch directly below.

MAKING THE SQUARES
Begin by downloading the STARBRIGHT Worksheet which contains all the colour info you need to make the squares - click on the following link >>

DOWNLOAD STARBRIGHT WORKSHEET

Complete all seven rounds to make Square 1. You can then measure this square to determine whether your hook size is producing the right gauge, as explained in the section above about tension. After you’ve completed Square 1, all subsequent squares will be worked following the same pattern as far as round 6. You will then need to follow joining instructions for
working the final round 7 which incorporates the amazing join-as-you-go method.
I would strongly advise you to darn in your ends after you complete each square!

STARBRIGHT SQUARE 1

Round 1 : use Colour A (Turquoise)

Chain 4; slip stitch in first chain to form a ring;

NOTE : try and crochet over your tail end when you make all the stitches in round 1 (as shown above). This will allow you to close up the central hole to create a neat finish.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); 7 dc into the ring; slip stitch into 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close round. DO NOT FASTEN OFF. [8 dc]

Round 2 : continue using Colour A (Turquoise)

Slip stitch into the first stitch to the left of your join (as shown by my needle above). This will anchor you in the correct place for starting this round.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain space); ✱into the next stitch work (1 tr; chain 2);

Repeat from ✱ 6 more times; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 4 to close round; fasten off. [8 tr, plus 8 ch-2 spaces]

Round 3 : use Colour B (Pomegranate)

Join yarn in any chain-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr into same space; chain 1; 2 tr into same space; chain 1; (as shown above)

✱Work (2 tr; chain 1; 2 tr; chain 1) into the next chain-2 space; (as shown above)

Repeat from ✱ 6 more times; slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round; fasten off.

You should have 16 groups of 2-tr, with chain-1 spaces in between each 2-tr group.

Round 4 : use Colour C (Magenta).

Work out of the chain-1 spaces for this round.

Locate your starting place, as shown by my needle above - it's the chain-2 space directly to the right of your last fasten off. It should look slightly larger because it sits above a treble made in round 2. Insert hook into this space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same space; 2 tr into each of the next 3 spaces (as shown above);

Create a corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the next space (as shown above);

2 tr into each of the next 3 spaces (as shown above);

✱Create a corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the next space; 2 tr into each of the next 3 spaces;

Repeat from ✱ once more; 2 tr into beginning space (as shown by my needle above); chain 2;

Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round; fasten off.

At the end of round 4, you should have four corners, with 3 v-stitches along each of the sides, as shown above. So far so good!

It's time to start stacking those v-stitches now.....

Round 5 : use Colour D (Aster).

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour.

You will be working into the centre of the v-stitches created in the previous round.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same space;

Now begin to stack your v-stitches - you can see where my needle is pointing in the above photo? That's your first V.

Work 1 v-stitch into the centre of that first v-stitch - it's not a chain space, but you can easily stick your hook in between the two trebles of the V.

1 v-stitch into each of the next 4 v-stitches along the first side (as shown above); 

✱Work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner;

1 v-stitch into each of the next 5 v-stitches (as shown above); 

Repeat from ✱ twice more;

2 tr into beginning space (as shown b y my needle above); chain 2;

Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round' fasten off.

At the end of round 5, you should have four corners, with 5 v-stitches along each of the sides, as shown above. 

DARNING IN ENDS

Please do get into the habit of doing this as soon as you fasten off a round and snip your ends - it takes a few seconds and is worth doing as you go along.

NEEDLE

The right needle makes a big difference to darning in ends - my favourite needle is a a Chenille needle. These have eyes big enough for DK weight yarn and a very sharp point which makes darning in a breeze. Choose a chenille needle with a big enough eye - a size 18 is ideal (find on Amazon HERE)

The secret to good darning is to go in two directions. First push your needle down through the post of the stitch towards the centre, as shown above.

Then reverse direction and bring your needle back through the stitch and out towards the edge, as shown above. This double-direction-darn makes for a very secure finish.

Now do the same with the other tail end - first bring your needle up through the v-stitch corner towards the outer edge, as shown above.

Then darn back in the opposite direction, as shown above. Take care to keep your v-stitches intact (darn up and down through the posts of the stitches, not across them). I hope that all makes sense - it very quickly becomes a habit that you don't think about. Keep your sharp chenille needle with your scissors and darn as soon as you snip.

OK....lets move onto Round 6.

Round 6 : use Colour E (Empire).

IMPORTANT NOTE :: flip your square over so that you are working round six with the WRONG SIDE FACING. This will help to prevent your square from twisting)

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour. Keep your tail end pulled forward so it stays on the wrong side ready for darning in.

You will be working into the centre of the v-stitches created in the previous round.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same space;

Now begin to stack your v-stitches - you can see where my needle is pointing in the above photo? That's your first V.

Work 1 v-stitch into the centre of that first v-stitch - it's not a chain space, but you can easily stick your hook in between the two trebles of the V.

1 v-stitch into each of the next 6 v-stitches along the first side (as shown above); 

✱Work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner;

1 v-stitch into each of the next 7 v-stitches (as shown above); 

Repeat from ✱ twice more;

When you get back to the beginning, work 2 tr into the beginning corner space; chain 2; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3 to close the round; fasten off.

At the end of round 6, you should have four corners, with 7 v-stitches along each of the sides, as shown above. Remember you are looking at the wrong side here - you can flip your square back over ready to work the final round with the right side facing.

Round 7 : use Colour F (French Navy).

RIGHT SIDE FACING

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour. 

You will be working into the centre of the v-stitches created in the previous round.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same space; 1 v-stitch into each of the next 9 v-stitches along the first side (as shown above);

✱Work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner;

1 v-stitch into each of the next 9 v-stitches;

Repeat from ✱ twice more;

When you get back to the beginning, work 2 tr into the beginning corner space; chain 2; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain 3 to close the round; fasten off.

At the end of round 7, you should have four corners, with 9 v-stitches along each of the sides, as shown above.

Your square should be pretty neat and square and won't need blocking, and the crochet should feel quite dense and compact without too many gaps or holes. Your finished Square 1 should measure 13 cm across.

If you are happy with your tension and gauge, you can now get busy making Square 2 and I'll show you how to join it to Square 1.

NOTE : Place a stitch marker into the front of square 1 so that you have a visual reference to remind you which is the right side, and also which is the top-left corner of the blanket when you come to join your squares together.

SQUARE 2

Round 1-6 : refer to the downloaded worksheet for the colours.

Follow the instructions for Square 1 as far as round 6. Remember round 6 will be worked with wrong side facing. Flip over so the right side is facing again, and work the first side of round 7 as follows :

Round 7 : still using Colour F (RIGHT SIDE FACING)

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour. 

You will be working into the centre of the v-stitches created in the previous round.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same space; 1 v-stitch into each of the next 9 v-stitches along the first side (as shown above);

Work (2 tr; chain 1;) into the chain-2 corner space;

Now we're going to join square 2 to square 1 - this is a vertical join. If you aren't used to doing join-as-you-go, you may find it easier at first to work on a flat surface. Joins are made using simple slip stitches. Try and be mindful of your tension, keeping the slip stitches neat and reasonably well tensioned so that the squares begin to sit closely next to each other without bunching up and overlapping (too tight) or gaping apart (too loose).

Hold you working yarn to the BACK of the crochet, making sure you are keeping it under tension. Insert your hook into the top right corner space of square 1 (insert it from the front to the back), and  yarn over (as shown above)

Draw the yarn through the space, keeping your tension as even as possible, then pull it through the loop on your hook, just as you would when making a normal slip stitch. Now see where my needle is pointing in the photo above? You need to crochet 2 tr into the top left corner space of square 2 to complete that corner.

Now locate the next space on square 1 (shown by my needle in the above photo) where you will make your next slip stitch join. Your slip stitches will go in the spaces that separate each v-stitch (not into the centre of the V-stitch).

Keeping your working yarn tensioned to the back of the square, insert your hook into the next space along the side of square 1 (insert from the front to back), then yarn over and draw the loop up through the space, then through the loop on your hook as you would for a slip stitch. 

Now work 1 v-stitch into the next v-stitch along the side of square 2 (shown by my needle in the photo above). 

This is what you have to remember - your slip stitches go into the spaces that separate v-stitches on Square 1. But when you switch back to crocheting on square 2, you must continue to stack your v-stitches. Does that make sense?

SO square 1 - slip stitches in the separating spaces. Square 2 - stacking v-stitches, so hook goes into the centre of a V.

Remember to keep your working yarn tensioned to the back of the square.

Remember also to insert your hook into the space from front to back to perform a slip stitch.

Work 1 v-stitch into the next v-stitch along the side of square 2;

Work a slip stitch join into the next space along the side of square 1;

etc etc.....see how this is working?

Keep going until you reach the bottom, as shown above.

Your last slip stitch should be in the bottom right corner space of square 1, as shown above.

Now chain 1, and then work 2 tr into into the bottom left corner space of square 2 to complete that corner (where my needle is pointing above).

You have now completed 2 sides of round 7. Spin your crochet around so that your working edge is at the top....

Work a v-stitch into each v-stitch along the third side of square 2 (there should be 9 in total); turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the corner space;

Work 2 tr into the beginning space to complete the first corner; chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round; fasten off and darn in ends.

There you go - that's your first join-as-you-go seam done and dusted. Now you get to do it all again as you attach square 3 to square 2....

SQUARE 3

Round 1-6 : refer to the downloaded worksheet for the colours.

Follow the instructions for Square 1 as far as round 6. Remember round 6 will be worked with wrong side facing. Flip over so the right side is facing again, and work the first side of round 7 as follows :

Round 7 : still using Colour F (RIGHT SIDE FACING)

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour. 

Complete the first side, stopping when you've worked (2 tr; chain 1) into the corner space.

Now we're going to join square 3 to square 2 - this is a vertical join, and you'll crochet in exactly the same way as you did before.

Slip stitch into the top right corner space of square 2;

Work 2 tr into the top left corner space of square 3 (shown by my needle in the above phot0) to complete the corner.

Slip stitch into the the next space between v-stitches (shown by my needle above) on square 2; 

V-stitch into the next v-stitch on square 3 (shown by my needle above); 

Continue working the join, alternating with slip stitches on square 2, and v-stitches on square 3 until you reach the bottom.

When you've completed the corner at the bottom of square 3 (as shown above), complete the remaining two sides of square 3 just as you did before when working square 2.

You should now have three squares joined in a row - YAY! Hopefully you're getting the hang of the method and getting used to holding an even tension as you make your slip stitches - it does take a little practice if this joining technique is new to you.

SQUARES 4-9

Continue making and joining squares 4-9 in exactly the same was as you have for squares 2 and 3, using the Starbright Worksheet for the colour information. This forms the top row of your blanket.

Now we start joining row 2.

SQUARE 13

Round 1-6 : refer to the downloaded worksheet for the colours.

Follow the instructions for Square 1 as far as round 6. Remember round 6 will be worked with wrong side facing. Flip over so the right side is facing again, and work the first side of round 7 as follows :

Round 7 : still using Colour F (RIGHT SIDE FACING)

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour. 

Complete the first side, stopping when you've worked (2 tr; chain 1) into the corner space.

Now we're going to join square 10 to square 1 - this is a horizontal join, and you'll crochet in exactly the same way as you did before.

Slip stitch into the bottom right corner space (shown by my needle above) of square 1;

Work 2 tr into top right corner space of square 10 (shown by my needle above) to complete the corner;

Slip stitch into the next space (shown by my needle above) on Square 1; 

Work a v-stitch into the next v-stitch (shown by my needle above) on Square 10;

Continue working your joining slip stitches (square 1) and v-stitches (square 10) all the way along.

Remember your hook goes into the space from front to back, and your yarn stays tensioned at the back of the crochet so you can hook it easily and pull it through the space, as shown above....I hope this is feeling easy for you now?

Once you've completed the join, you can continue crocheting the third and fourth sides to complete round 7 of square 10.

The above photo shows square 10 complete and joined to the bottom of square 1. This is the beginning of row 2 of your blanket. 

When you join square 11 next, you'll be creating an L-shaped seam, firstly joining to the bottom of square 2, then joining to the side of square 10. I'll walk you through it.....

SQUARE 11

Round 1-6 : refer to the downloaded worksheet for the colours.

Follow the instructions for Square 1 as far as round 6. Remember round 6 will be worked with wrong side facing. Flip over so the right side is facing again, and work the first side of round 7 as follows :

Round 7 : still using Colour F (RIGHT SIDE FACING)

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour. 

Complete the first side, stopping when you've worked (2 tr; chain 1) into the corner space.

Now we're going to join square 11 to square 2 - this is a horizontal join.

Slip stitch into the bottom right corner space of square 2;

Work 1 v-stitch into the top right corner space of square 11;

*Work a slip stitch into the next space along square 2;

Work a v-stitch into the next v-stitch along square 11;

Repeat from * until you reach the left corner and the horizontal join is complete;

You should end this join with a slip stitch into the bottom left corner space of square 2.

Now locate the corner space at the top right of square 10 (as shown by my needle in the photo above) and work a slip stitch into this space;

Work 2 tr into the corner space at the top left of square 10 (as shown in the above photo); 

You are now working a vertical seam, joining square 11 to the side of square 10.

Continue working your joining slip stitches (square 10) and v-stitches (square 11) all the way along to the bottom (as shown above).

Continue to crochet the final 4th side of square 11, as shown above.

SQUARE 12

Repeat the making and joining process as for square 11. You will be joining a horizontal seam along the bottom of Square 3, and a vertical seam along the side of square 11.

SQUARES 13-18(ROW 2 of the BLANKET)

Continue joining squares horizontally along to form a second row beneath the first. Follow the colours given in the Starbright worksheet..

DOWNLOAD STARBRIGHT WORKSHEET

SQUARES 19 - 27 form row 3

SQUARES 28 - 36 form row 4

etc etc

Continue to follow the colours given in the worksheet, creating and joining each square in a methodical, numerical order.

When all 81 squares are joined, it's time to start the border.

STARBRIGHT BORDER

The border is worked in eight rounds, using the following colours :

1. Lapis
2. Bottle
3. Teal
4. Aster
5. Lobelia
6. Empire
7. French Navy
8. Lipstick

As a rough guide, you will need around 25g of each colour. The border is worked as rounds of stacked v-stitches.

NOTE : you will be turning the blanket after each round, so please note whether you should have right side or wrong side facing at the start of each round. Use the stitch marker placed in Square 1 to keep track of which is the right side.

Round 1 : Use colour Lapis

RIGHT SIDE FACING

Join yarn in any corner space. You will be working stacked v-stitches for this round.

Chain 3 then 1 tr into same space (counts as v-stitch); skip the next v-stitch;

NOTE : I know it seems weird to skip v-stitches, and you might think it's going to leave a big gap, but trust me, it'll be just fine. You need to skip over some stitches to stop the border ruffling and being too full.

(V-stitch in centre of next v-stitch) nine times;

You'll be coming up to a join now....

Skip the next v-stitch right before the chain-2 corner space;

✱V-stitch in chain-2 space (as shown by my needle above);

V-stitch in next chain-2 space (the one belonging to the next square along); 

Skip the next v-stitch right after the chain-2 corner space;

(v-stitch in centre of next v-stitch) nine times; skip the next v-stitch;

Repeat from ✱ seven more times. You should now be at the end of the first side.

Can you see in the above photo where the skipped v-stitches are, either side of the joined corner spaces? You can just about spot them, but skipping over them doesn't really leave any gaps - I just wanted to reassure you! Skipping these stitches makes sure the border sits nice and flat. Do remember to skip over them when you crochet over each join between two squares!! Don't forget! Pop a series of stitch markers into those empty v-stitches in advance if you think you might get muddled. 

When you reach the end of the first side, stop when you have one last v-stitch remaining before the corner - you will skip over this one.

Now work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) in the chain-2 corner space (shown by my needle) to turn the corner ;

Skip over the next v-stitch, then carry on along the second side, as follows :

(v-stitch in centre of next v-stitch) nine times; skip the next v-stitch;

✱ v-stitch in next chain-2 space (shown by my needle above); v-stitch in next chain-2 space; skip the next v-stitch;

(v-stitch in centre of next v-stitch) nine times; skip the next v-stitch;

Repeat from ✱ seven more times. You should now be at the end of this side.

For third and fourth sides, repeat as for second side.

DON'T FORGET TO SKIP V's either side of each corner, and either side of the ch-2 spaces along the sides.

If you want to check your stitch count, you should have 11 V-s along the side of each square (including the V-s that make up the corners), so 99 V-s along each blanket side in total, including the corners.

When you get back to where you started, v-stitch into beginning ch-2 space; chain-2; slip stitch into third chain of beginning chain-3 to close round; fasten off.

That's the hardest round done - it's all plain sailing now!

Flip your blanket over, because you're going to work the next round with wrong side facing.

Round 2 : Use colour Bottle

WRONG SIDE FACING

Join yarn in any corner space. You will be working stacked v-stitches for this round.

Chain 3 then 1 tr into same space (counts as v-stitch); 

Work 1 v-stitch into the centre of each v-stitch made in previous round;

When you reach the corners, work (v-stitch; chain 2; v-stitch) in the chain-2 corner spaces;

Continue around all four sides until you get back to where you started;

V-stitch into beginning ch-2 space; chain-2; slip stitch into third chain of beginning chain-3 to close round; fasten off.

Easy-breezy crochet!!!!!!!!!! Now rounds 3-7 follow the exact same pattern as round 2. Remember to check right side/wrong side at the start of each new round.

Round 3 : Use colour Teal

RIGHT SIDE FACING - follow pattern as for round 2.

Round 4 : Use colour Aster

WRONG SIDE FACING - follow pattern as for round 2.

Round 5 : Use colour Lobelia

RIGHT SIDE FACING - follow pattern as for round 2.

Round 6 : Use colour Empire

WRONG SIDE FACING - follow pattern as for round 2.

Round 7 : Use colour French Navy

RIGHT SIDE FACING - follow pattern as for round 2.

Round 8 : Use colour Lipstick

RIGHT SIDE FACING

Start in any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc, plus chain space); 1 dc into same space;

Work 2 dc into the centre of the next v-stitch (where my needle is pointing above)....

...then work 2 dc in every v-stitch along the first side;

Work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 space to form a corner.

Continue around all sides of the blanket, working 2 dc into the centre of each v-stitch from the row below, and turning the corners by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner spaces.

When you get back to where you started, slip stitch into 1^st stitch of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

And that..........................is a wrap!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

STARBRIGHT is now gloriously finished and ready for some top notch snuggle time!!

Now when I've made a blanket using the join-as-you-go method, I do find that it all looks pretty good without any blocking. So I would say that blocking is optional, but in my experience it does really improve the drape and feel of the blanket if you have the time and space to give it some spa treatment.

The easiest way to do this is to wash your blanket in the washing machine on a normal 30 degree cycle - it should come out of the machine feeling damp but not sopping wet. Spread it out on a clean carpeted floor (or on a spare bed laid with towels if you don't have enough floor space) and use your hands to gently stretch and ease the blanket into shape. Pay particular attention to the border and the corners, gently stretching and shaping with your hands, making sure the edges are straight and the corners sit neatly at 90 degree angles. Add pins if necessary (I usually find my blanket sticks to the carpet and doesn't need pinning).

Once everything is stretched and looking good, go and do something distracting for the rest of the day and leave your blanket to thoroughly dry overnight - a good 24 hours drying time is ideal if you can manage it.

It's such a beautiful feeling when you unpeel your soft, dry and clean-smelling blanket and it feels fantastic in your hands - enjoy every nano-second of pleasure it gives you!

A little reminder that if you purchase the Starbright yarn pack from Wool Warehouse, it includes a 12 page A4 printed pattern. Thank you very much for your support - when you buy from Wool Warehouse I earn a commission which I'm very, very grateful for.

STARBRIGHT YARN PACK

I'm going to quickly write up the 7 round Starbright Square pattern for you now though, so that if you wish you can copy and paste it into a Word document to print out or refer to when you make your squares. 

STARBRIGHT SQUARE

Round 1, use Colour A

Chain 4; sl st in first ch to form a ring; Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc); Work 7 dc into the ring;

Sl st into second ch of beginning ch-2 to close round; do not fasten off. [8 dc]

Round 2, continue using Colour A

Sl st into first dc so that you are in the correct place to start the round.

Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2); ✱1 tr into next dc; ch 2; repeat from ✱ six more times.

Sl st into third ch of beginning ch-4 to close round; fasten off. [8 tr, plus 8 ch-2 sp]

Round 3, use Colour B

Work out of the ch-2 spaces for this round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr into same sp; ch 1; 2 tr into same sp; ch 1; ✱ in next ch-2 sp work (2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr; ch 1); repeat from ✱ six more times.

Sl st into third ch of beginning ch-3 to close round; fasten off. [16 sets of 2-tr, plus 16 ch-1 sp]

Round 4, use Colour C

Work out of the ch-1 spaces that separate the sets of 2-tr for this round.

Insert hook into the space created by the last ch-1 in previous round (this space sits directly above a tr st from round 2. Pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 3; 1 tr into same sp (counts as v-st); (sk the next 2 tr; v-st in next ch-1 sp) three times;

✱ Sk the next 2 tr; in next ch-1 space work (v-st; ch 2; v-st) to form a corner; (sk the next 2 tr; v-st in next ch-1 sp) three times; repeat from ✱ twice more.

V-st into beginning ch-1 space; ch-2; sl st into third ch of beginning ch-3 to close round; fasten off. [4 corners, with 3 v-st along each side]

Round 5, use Colour D

Work out of the spaces in the centre of v-stitches in previous round (creating a stacked v-stitch)

Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 3 then 1 tr into same sp (counts as v-st); sk the next tr; v-st in centre of next v-st;

(Sk the next 2 tr; v-st in centre of next v-st) four times; ✱ Sk the next tr; in next ch-2 space work (v-st; ch 2; v-st) to form a corner; sk the next tr; v-st in centre of next v-st; (sk the next 2 tr; v-st in centre of next v-st) four times; repeat from ✱ twice more. Sk the next tr; v-st into beginning ch-1 space; ch-2; sl st into third ch of beginning ch-3 to close round; fasten off. [4 corners, with 5 v-st along each side]

Round 6, use Colour E

NOTE : This round is worked with WRONG SIDE FACING

Work out of the spaces in the centre of v-stitches in previous round (creating a stacked v-stitch)

Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Ch 3 then 1 tr into same sp (counts as v-st); sk the next tr; v-st in centre of next v-st; (Sk the next 2 tr; v-st in centre of next v-st) six times; ✱ Sk the next tr; in next ch-2 space work (v-st; ch 2; v-st) to form a corner; sk the next tr; v-st in centre of next v-st; (sk the next 2 tr; v-st in centre of next v-st) six times; repeat from ✱ twice more.

Sk the next tr; v-st into beginning ch-1 space; ch-2; sl st into third ch of beginning ch-3 to close round; fasten off. [4 corners, with 7 v-st along each side]

Round 7, use Colour F

NOTE : This round is worked with RIGHT SIDE FACING

Work out of the spaces in the centre of v-stitches in previous round (creating a stacked v-stitch)

Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of new colour.

Side 1 : Ch 3 then 1 tr into same sp (counts as v-st); sk the next tr; v-st in centre of next v-st;

(Sk the next 2 tr; v-st in centre of next v-st) eight times; sk the next tr; in next ch-2 space work (v-st; ch 2; v-st) to form a corner;

Side 2 : Sk the next tr; v-st in centre of next v-st; (sk the next 2 tr; v-st in centre of next v-st) eight times; sk the next tr; in next ch-2 space work (v-st; ch 2; v-st) to form a corner;

Side 3 : work as for side 2

Side 4 : Sk the next tr; v-st in centre of next v-st; (sk the next 2 tr; v-st in centre of next v-st) eight times; sk the next tr; v-st into beginning ch-1 space; ch-2; sl st into third ch of beginning ch-3 to close round; fasten off. [4 corners, with 9 v-st along each side].

Here are the links you might need....

STARBRIGHT YARN PACK

DOWNLOAD STARBRIGHT WORKSHEET

STARBRIGHT BLOG POST

If you would like to turn your Starbright yarn into scrummy V-stitch stripes instead of using the square design, you can find the pattern and all colour info by clicking on the following link >>

V-STITCH STRIPE PATTERN

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Comments

[Rebecca Thomas]

Is the last border row 2dc,2 ch, 2 dc in the corners or is it 1 dc, 2 ch, 1 dc? You say both at different times?

[Rose]

HiLucy.
The link for the Starbright colour wash work sheet unfortunately downloads the squares chart. Any chance of rectifying this please?
Many thanks

[Paula Dunne]

Hi Lucy I'm on my tenth Attic24 blanket. Spring frost and loving it. I'm already looking into making another. Is there any yarn shop in Ireland stocking your packs? Otherwise I have to pay duty. Your blankets are a joy to make. Your instructions are so clear and easy to follow. Thank you for bringing such colourful joy into my life. Paula

[Penny Bryant]

The comment I made was regarding the comment from Texas about publishing a book with all your lovely patterns and helpful information on crocheting🥰

[Penny Bryant]

I second this suggestion ❤️❤️

[Emma Mason]

Is it OK to use a magic circle in the middle rather than a chain of 4. Also when you pull the new colour wool through each time, my yarn end is dangling until I get round to it again, is that right?!

[Margaret Earles]

I'm quite new to crocheting and have just received my starlight blanket kit....is there any reason I can't make this up using 7 squares x 7 squares?...I would prefer it more of a throw size...many thanks x

[Petal]

Thank you Lucy! I love your work.
I came looking to see when the new blanket would be in as I can't seem to subscribe to the blog (or buy you a few coffees). And here it is! So bright and colourful - It's just what I needed.
We had a disappointing election last night in NZ (and down right horrible in Australia) and I really needed some bright Lucy joy this morning.
I hope you realise how important your happy wee corner of the internet is for so many people.
I really appreciate you struggling through the bad crojo to produce this.
Thank you

[Kathleen Autret]

I would like to join the comment feed and hear all the discussion about making the Starbright colorwash pattern.

[Deborah Glibbery]

Hi Lucy, loving the Starbright Pattern. I am a left handed crocheter and struggling with the join as you go. Any tips that you could proved would be really appreciated. Thanks, Debbie

[Diane McNabb]

Will you be publishing a book with all your blankets, flowers, leaves, etc with your wonderful instructions? I live in Texas and would be happy to pay shipping on a treasure like that!! Thank you!

[Erin]

Hi I have a question about the starbright square tutorial. Is it correct in round 2 to chain 4 instead of 5? It only leaves a chain 1 space between the ch3 and the next treble instead of ch 2. Thanks!

[Samantha Kain]

Hi
I'm struggling to stop my squares from puckering up. This always seems to happen to me with squares that start circular. Do you have any tips?
Thanks

[lou]

I really love the autumn all excited for the dark nights and a new Lucy project,I should hopefully recieve my orders tomorrow eek. Im already planning the colourwash and the the original square blanket. Thank you for providing hours of entertainment.