Attic24: Springfrost Border

I designed this border pattern especially for my Springfrost blanket - you can find the Springfrost stripe pattern ((HERE))

The border is made using 7 rounds (although you can crochet less if you wish).

You will need approximately 20g of each colour.

I made a simple written pattern that you can download/print if you don't need the step by step help and prefer to have a traditional printed pattern to pop in your bag. You can find it by clicking on the following link >>

DOWNLOAD SPRINGFROST BORDER PATTERN

HOOK SIZE

You should use the same hook size which you used to crochet the stripes in the body of the Springfrost blanket - there is no need to increase your hook size unless you find that your stitches are pulling too tight.

I picked out seven colours for the Springfrost border :

Parma Violet (the cold ground)
Baby Blue (a clear sky)
Lincoln (frosty leaves)
Pistachio (fresh spring buds)
Powder Pink (early blossom)
A Hint of Silver (a chill in the air)
White (a frosty finish!)

You are of course free to pick out your own colour sequence, especially if any of the colours listed above aren't your favourites. You might also decide to work less than 7 rounds, although I do hope that you'll choose white as your frosty finish, because it looks wonderful!

As mentioned, you will need approx. 20g of each colour.

PATTERN

I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :

sl st [slip stitch] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

ROUND 1 : Use Parma Violet yarn.

Beginning at the top right hand corner of your blanket (the darned ends will be on the right hand side), insert hook into first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc into each of the stitches along the top row until 1 stitch remains (this last stitch is the top of the chain-3 from the previous row);

Into the last stitch, you'll be working the corner turn as follows :

(1 dc: chain 2; 1 dc);

Working down the long side of the blanket, you'll be inserting your hook under the "post" of the stitches which form the end of each stripe. See where my needle is tucking under the post of the stitch in the above photo? That's where your hook will go.

Work 1 dc around the post of the next stitch; work 2 dc around the post of the next stitch, as shown above.

You will effectively be creating 3 dc stitches into each stripe all the way down to the bottom.

Try and keep your stitches as neat as possible - these long edges can be bumpy and a little uneven so don't worry too much about perfect neatness, but an even tension will help.

When you reach the bottom, work (1 dc; ch 2; 1 dc) into the first loop of the foundation chain (as shown by my needle above) to turn the corner.

Working along the bottom foundation edge, you’ll be crocheting into the single loops of the foundation chain....

....working 1 dc in each loop along the bottom edge of your blanket.

The corner turn is worked into the last stitch which is the bottom of the turning chain (as shown by my needle above).

Work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) to turn the corner, as shown above.

Working along the final long side of the blanket, this is the edge where you darned in your ends so it may well be uneven and sometimes a bit of work to get your hook under the posts of the stitches.

Work 3 dc into the end of each stripe - take your time and try and space your stitches as evenly as possible, as shown above.

When you arrive back where you started, work (1 dc; chain 2) in the stitch where you made your beginning chain-2.

Slip stitch into 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close the round; fasten off.

Well that's the trickiest first round over and done with - now we can relax with some lovely, easy, smooth rounds of back-loop double crochet..............

ROUND 2 : Use Baby Blue yarn.

NOTE - start each round in a different corner to avoid darning in ends all in one place.

Another NOTE - you'll be working under the BACK LOOPS ONLY for this round.

You'll be starting just before a corner turn - insert your hook into the BACK LOOP of the dc stitch directly before the chains which form the corner. Pull through a loop of the new colour and chain 2 (which counts as 1 dc).

You can see my starting chain-2 clearly in the above photo, sitting just before the chains.

To turn the corner, you'll insert your hook under the Back Loops of the chain stitches, as follows :

1 dc into the back loop of the next chain; chain 2; 1 dc into the back loop of the next chain;

Your corner should look like my photo above, stacking right on top of the corner you made in the previous round.

Now work 1 dc into the back loops of each stitch along the first side, as shown above.

To turn the corner, work 1 dc into the back loop of the chain; chain 2 (as shown above), then 1 dc into the back loop of the next chain.

Continue crocheting your way around the blanket, remembering to put your hook under the back loops of each stitch (including the chains where you will be stacking up your corners).

When you get back to where you started, insert your hook into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 and work a slip stitch to close the round. Fasten off.

That's your second round complete - the pattern for round 2 forms the basis of the border and will be repeated four more times.

ROUND 3 : Use Lincoln yarn.

This round is a repeat of round 2. Start in a different corner, and locate the dc stitch which sits just before the corner chains, remembering to insert your hook just in the back loop.

Chain 2; 1 dc in back loop of chain; chain 2; 1 dc in back loop of next chain;

1 dc in back loop of each stitch along until you reach the next corner;

You should find you get into a lovely rhythm with these neat long rows of back loop double crochet - pure Hooky Pleasure! Follow the pattern as for round 2 until you get right back to where you started then close your round with a slip stitch and fasten off.

ROUND 4 : Use Pistachio yarn.

Repeat round 2.

ROUND 5 : Use Powder Pink yarn.

Repeat round 2.

ROUND 6: Use A Hint of Silver yarn.

Repeat round 2.

I hope you love love love seeing these neat rows stacking up - SO SATISFYING!!

Just a note here - you can of course make your border as wide or as narrow as you like, it's entirely up to you. I've chosen to do six rounds before the final edging, but you can do less or more if you like, depending on your own preference.

ROUND 7 : Use White yarn.

For this round, you will start in the same place as before, and continue to work in the back loops.

Locate the dc stitch which sits just before the corner chains, remembering to insert your hook just in the back loop.

Chain 1 (counts as a slip stitch); slip stitch in back loop of chain; chain 2; slip stitch in back loop of next chain (as shown above);

For this round, instead of working dc stitches, you'll be working with slip stitches. Make sure you keep your tension as even as you can, and don't pull the slip stitches too tight.

Slip stitch into back loops of the next 2 stitches;

Work (slip stitch; chain 2; slip stitch) in the back loop of the next stitch, as shown above. This will make a little pointy peak a little bit like a simplified picot stitch.

Slip stitch into back loops of the next 2 stitches;

*Work (slip stitch; chain 2; slip stitch) in the back loop of the next stitch; Slip stitch into back loops of the next 2 stitches;

Repeat from * all along the first edge....

....making a neat row of frosty peaks. Admire their cuteness!

As you near the end of the first side, you should be aiming to finish with 2 slip stitches right before you crochet the corner turn.

a NOTE here, about the numbers game. I found that not every side gave me the exact right stitch count - sometimes I ended up with 3 stitches between my peaky point and the corner turn, instead of the desired 2. If that happens, then all you do is skip over the third unwanted extra stitch, just ignore it completely. It won't show, and will make sure that all your corners have 2 slip stitches either side to keep them even and matching.

OK......I hope that makes sense.

Now you need to carry on crocheting around all four sides of your blanket, back loops only, following the pattern....making 2 slip stitches, then a peeky point, then 2 slip stitches, then a peeky point...etc etc.

When you get back to where you started, you should make 1 slip stitch after your last peeky point, then get ready to make an "invisible join". I'll talk you through it -

Snip off your yarn, then pull your hook away from the crochet so that the loop on your hook opens up (as shown above). Keep pulling until the tail end pops right through the stitch, taking care not to pull that last stitch tight.

Thread your tail end onto a darning needle, and insert the needle underneath the two loops of the chain-1 that you started the round with (as shown above).

Now insert your hook down into the top of the last slip stitch you made, as shown above.

You are effectively using your needle and yarn to create a false stitch to close the round....

....and when you darn in the ends, it should give you a completely invisible, seamless join, as shown above.

Now it's time to darn in all your ends....hopefully you've started and finished each round in a different corner each time so that your darning doesn't bulk out or distort the corners too much, but take care to darn in as neatly as possible.