Spike Stitch Edging

I designed this edging pattern especially for my Dahlia blanket which is crocheted using the Dahlia Spike Stitch.

The border is made using 6 rounds, a combination of neat dc rows which border the two wider treble/spike stitch rows. The effect is striking, creating a very bold edging which frames the stripes and gives a beautiful finish to the overall blanket.

I made a simple written pattern that you can download/print if you don't need the step by step help and prefer to have a traditional printed pattern to pop in your bag. You can find it by clicking on the following link >>

DOWNLOAD DAHLIA EDGING PATTERN

HOOK SIZE

You should use the same hook size which you used to crochet the stripes in the body of the Dahlia blanket - there is no need to increase your hook size.

COLOURS

I chose six colours for my border, and they are worked in the following order ::

🌸 1. Pomegranate 🌸 2. Blush 🌸 3. Claret 🌸

🌸4. Magenta 🌸 5. Powder Pink 🌸 6. Boysenberry 🌸 

If you are choosing your own colours for this border, then I thought it might be helpful to give you a little guidance.

Round 1 : a narrow dc round : Generally speaking, the first round of any border can be a little uneven, so it's best to choose a colour that blends as much as possible with the body of the blanket - opt for something mid-tone (not to light, dark or bright). 

Round 2 : a narrow dc round : you can choose to blend this with round 1, or choose a lighter/darker shade to make it pop out a little.

Round 3 : the treble round : this round wants to really stand out as much as possible, so think about the darkest or lightest/brightest colour you might have in your palette.

Round 4 : the spike stitch round : this should have a high contrast with round 3, so if you picked a dark colour for round 3 then round 4 should be something light/bright. If you went for a light coloured round 3, then round 4 should be a dark shade.

Round 5 : a narrow dc round : I think this round should pop right out so choose either a really light or a really dark colour to contrast with Round 4.

Round 6 : final dc round : this is the final frame of the border, so choose a colour you really like. I generally prefer a darker finishing round, but this is a personal choice.

YARN QUANTITIES

This information is mainly for those of you who are making a blanket from a yarn pack (eg 15 x 100g Stylecraft Special DK) where you have a limited yarn quantity. My blanket measures 120 x 175cm before the border, and after 99 stripes I ended up with around 25-40g of yarn left over, depending on whether I worked 6 or 7 stripes in the main body of the blanket. 

I have some Salter kitchen scales which are super useful for yarn weighing and I can highly recommend them as an addition to your crochet kit!

I thought it would be useful to give you an approximate idea of how much yarn you will need to work the Spike Stitch border, so you can weigh your balls and make sure you have sufficient.

Rounds 1, 2, 5 and 6 (the dc rounds) use approx. 18g of yarn.

Round 3 (the treble round) and Round 4 (the spike stitch round) use approx. 30g of yarn.

PATTERN

I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

Sp-tr [Treble Crochet Spike Stitch] :: a treble crochet worked into the skipped stitch two rows below the current one, drawing the loop up to the height of the current working row (note :: this is equivalent to a US sp-dc stitch)

You will begin at the top right hand corner of your blanket. Make sure the right side of the blanket is facing you (your tail ends should all be neatly darned in under the right hand edge of the blanket when the right side is facing uppermost)

ROUND 1 : Use Pomegranate yarn

Insert your hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc into each stitch along the top edge of your blanket.

When working down the side edges of the blanket, you'll be working around the "post" of the stitch. This means inserting your hook into the gap between the last two stitches of that particular stripe row (see where my needle is in the above photo?) 

First we're going to make a corner, so insert your hook into the gap where my needle is showing you.....

....and work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) as shown in the above photo.

Work 1 dc around the post of the next stitch (shown by my needle above); 

Work 2 dc around the post of the next stitch (shown by my needle above);

Work 1 dc around the post of the next stitch (shown by my needle above)

* 2 dc around the post of the next stitch; 1 dc around the post of the next stitch *

Repeat between ** all the way down the long side the blanket. You are effectively working 3 dc stitches into the ends of each stripe, if that helps you to visualise it better!

When you reach the bottom, you'll be working a corner turn into the end of the foundation row - this will mean inserting your hook under a single loop (as shown by my needle above)

Work (1 dc ; chain 2; 1 dc) into the first loop of the foundation, as shown above.

Work 1 dc into each stitch along the bottom of the blanket (picking up the single loops of the foundation row)

When you get to the end, work (1 dc: chain 2; 1 dc) onto the last loop of the foundation row to turn the corner.

You'll now be working into the long side of the blanket - this is the edge where you darned in your ends so you may need to do a little bit of wiggling to get your hook  under the posts of the stitches.

* 1 dc around the post of the next stitch; 2 dc around the post of the next stitch *

Repeat between ** all the way along the long edge....

Remember you are aiming to make 3 dc stitches into the end of each stripe. Try and keep your tension as neat as possible, but don't worry if your row looks a bit wobbly along this edge, just do your best to keep it all as even as you can.

When you get back to the top, you should make 1 dc around the post of the last stripe which is shown by my needle above.

Now insert your hook under the last post of the top stripe and work (1 dc : chain 2 : 1 dc) to create the last corner.

Then make a slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 (shown by my needle above) to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

ROUND 2 : use Blush yarn

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc);

1 dc into each stitch along the first edge.

When you reach the end of the first edge, work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner.

Continue working 1 dc into each stitch around the edges of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the corner spaces.

When you arrive back to where you started, work 1 dc into the same space where you made your first chain 2 (as shown by my needle above);

chain 2;

slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

That was a pretty easy round don't you think?! Time to switch up to make some trebles now....

ROUND 3 : Use Claret yarn

Insert your hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Note : in this round, trebles are worked in groups of two ie 2 treble crochet worked into the same stitch.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr into same corner space; (this forms one half of a corner)

Skip 1 stitch; 2 tr in next stitch;

Skip 1 stitch;

2 tr in next stitch; skip 1 stitch;

* 2 tr in next stitch; skip 1 stitch; *

Repeat between ** until you reach the end of the first side.

To turn the corner, work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner space;

Skip 1 stitch (note : this stitch may be trying to hide!! It'll be tucked in very close to the corner trebles you just made so make sure you search for it, skip over it and correctly put your hook into the next stitch)

* 2 tr into next stitch; skip 1 stitch *

Repeat between ** along each side of the blanket, working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into each corner space, remembering to leave a skipped stitch either side of the corner turn (watch out for those stitches trying to hide!)

When you arrive back where you started, you'll need to complete the first corner.

So work 2 tr in the same corner space as your beginning chain 3; chain 2; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

So that's round 3 complete! Groups of 2-trebles separated by skipped stitches.

In Round 4 we're going to work treble spike stitches down into those skipped stitches, exactly as we did when making the Dahlia Spike Stitch stripes. We're also going to work dc stitches in the central space in between the two trebles. Let me show you what I mean....

I'll explain it all as we go along, but I thought it might help for you to understand what you'll be doing in round 4 before you begin.

Ok, are you ready?

ROUND 4 : use Magenta yarn.

Insert hook into any chain-2 space and pull through a loop of the new colour,

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc);

Now skip 1 stitch and work 1 dc in the SPACE between the next 2 trebles. Wiggle your hook right into that space and work the stitch!

Skip over the next treble and locate the skipped stitch from two rows below (where my needle is showing you in the above photo). Remember I mentioned before that this stitch sometimes likes to hide? Find it with your hook and work a long treble crochet.........

.....drawing the stitch up to the current level. Remember this is EXACTLY the same as the Dahlia spike stitch which forms the stripes of the Dahlia blanket.

Skip the next treble and work 1 dc into the space between the 2-trebles (as shown by my needle above).

Skip the next treble and work a treble-spike into the skipped stitch two rows below;

* Skip the next treble and work 1 dc into the space between the 2-trebles; skip the next treble and work a treble-spike into the skipped stitch two rows below; *

Repeat between ** along the first side.

Can you see how easy this round is once you get going? You are alternating between dc's in the spaces, and long treble spikes in the lower skipped stitches.

Short, long, short, long, short, long.

You'll end the side with a short dc in the space between the last 2-tr;

Skip the next treble and get ready to make the corner...

To turn the corner, work (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) in the chain-2 corner space;

Skip the next treble and work 1 dc in the space between the 2-trebles;

Skip the next treble and work a treble-spike into the skipped stitch two rows below (remember it might be trying to hide!);

* Skip the next treble and work 1 dc into the space between the 2-trebles; skip the next treble and work a treble-spike into the skipped stitch two rows below; *

Repeat between ** along each side of the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 dc: chain-2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner spaces.

You should find a nice rhythm with this round, alternating the short dc's and long spike trebles - it's so satisfying to see how it creates little ❤ heart ❤ shapes in the row below....awwww!

When you get back to where you started, you'll need to complete the corner. Insert your hook into the space where you made your beginning chain-2 and work 1 dc; chain 2; slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

ROUND 5 : use Powder Pink yarn.

Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); work 1 dc into each stitch along the first side;

Turn the corner by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space;

Continue working 1 dc into each stitch around, turning the corners as indicated above, until you get back to where you started.

To finish the corner, work 1 dc in the same space where you made the beginning chain- 2;

chain 2; slip stitch into beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Easy peasy eh??!!!

ROUND 6 : use Boysenberry yarn

Note : this is an exact repeat of Round 5.

Insert hook into any corner space and draw through a loop of the new colour;

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); work 1 dc in each stitch around the blanket, turning the corners by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the corner spaces until you get back to where you started.

To finish the corner, work 1 dc in the same space where you made the beginning chain- 2;

chain 2; slip stitch into beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

And that my friends, is one beautifully finished Spike Stitch border........

...........Ta-dah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remember there is a traditional pattern for this edging that you can download/print if you wish, click on the following link :

DOWNLOAD DAHLIA EDGING PATTERN

If you need to find any of the other parts of the Dahlia blanket CAL, I'll list all the links below for you.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

🌸 DAHLIA YARN PACK

🌸DAHLIA SPIKE STITCH TUTORIAL

🌸DAHLIA PRINTABLE PATTERN

🌸 DAHLIA BLANKET INTRODUCTION

🌸 SNEAK PEEK of BLANKETS

🌸 CAL PART 1 

🌸 CAL PART 2

🌸 CAL PART 3

🌸 CAL PART 4

🌸 CAL PART 5

🌸 CAL PART 6

 

 

 

Comments

[Wicked Stitch]

Ive just completed a king size 2 color dalia stitch blanket. Has anyone else done this? Did you add a border? Or was it just too much?

[Pam Dennis]

I really want to crotchet the Dahlia blanket and thought by buying the pack that the pattern would come in with it as it used to. Unfortunately it doesn't and although the pattern was available to download, I have no printer.
Can you tell me where the pattern can be bought?
Thank you
Pam Dennis

[Greice Bergamo]

Ameiiiii !!!!