Slipstream Edging

This is the edging I designed to finish off my Woodland Ripple blanket. It's a simple, slimline border worked in 4 rounds, giving a very neat finish without distracting from the overall look and feel of the ripple stripes. 

With this particular blanket I decided I wanted to keep the beautiful curvy top and bottom edges and not straighten them out. So this edging was designed to easily follow the natural curves of the ripple rows, but it would work just as well around a standard rectangular blanket.

The Slipstream edging is especially good for blankets that have a fair bit of natural stretch in them as it creates a firm, strong band which prevents the blanket from pulling out of shape once your children/pets/partners start putting it through it's paces on a daily basis. 

Remember when you started your Woodland Ripple, you worked the foundation chain and first row of double crochet using Lime yarn? This first row of the blanket also forms part of the edging, so when you are choosing your four colours you will need to use Lime as your starting colour.

You will need to select three more colours to add to Lime - choose your final/fourth colour carefully as it will have the most visual impact. I've gone for Lime, Spice, Gold and Tomato. The Tomato is quite a bold colour to finish with (and I think it looks super), but please do feel free to choose one of the more subtle autumn shades if the tomato is too shouty for you.

If you are using the Slipstream edging to finish off your Woodland Ripple (or any 4ft x 6ft blanket), you will need approximately 10-12g of each colour.

 HOOK SIZE

The 1st round of the edging is worked in double crochet and you should use the same hook size that you used to crochet your blanket stripes. 

The 2nd, 3rd and 4th rounds are worked in slip stitches, and I advise you to increase your hook size to keep your stitches from pulling too tightly. For this type of edging, I usually increase by a whole millimetre as I have a fairly tight tension (eg if you used a 4mm hook to make your blanket, increase to a 5mm hook to work your slip stitch edging). This is a personal choice and dependent on your own tension so please do have a little play around and see what feels right for you.

I'm writing my pattern using UK terms and abbreviations as follows ::

ch(s) = Chain(s)

st(s) = Stitch(es)

sl st [slip stitch] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.

dc [double crochet] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

BLO = Back Loops Only

NOTE :: Before you start work on the edging, you'll need to make sure all your ends are darned in securely.

ROUND 1 : Use Lime yarn

Starting at the top-right hand side of the blanket (the place where you fastened off your last ripple stripe), insert your hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour. 

Note : you are working through both loops of the stitch for this row

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc)

Work 1 dc in each stitch across the top of the blanket.

To turn the corner, you will work around the post of the dc at the end of the top ripple row. This means putting your hook into the space between the last dc stitch and the stitch before it.

Work 1 dc around the post of the last dc stitch, chain 2, then 1 dc into the same space (as shown in the above picture)

You will now be working down the left hand side of the blanket, from the top to the bottom. You will be working around the posts of the stitches which form the end of the ripple rows (inserting your hook n the gap under the post of the stitch, as shown by my needle in the above picture).

Work 2 dc into the end of the treble row (as shown above)

Your next stitch will go under the post of the dc at the end of the next ripple row (as shown by my needle in the above picture)

Work 1 dc into the end of the dc row.

*Work 2 dc into the end of the next tr row.

Work 1 dc into the end of the next dc row.*

Repeat between **, working 3 dc stitches into the end of each ripple stripe, all the way down to the bottom.

Your edging may look a little wobbly at this stage, but no need to worry, it all evens out once we add the next rounds. 

Your final dc at the end of this side will go around the post of the treble row (shown by my needle in the above picture)

You will now join up with the very first dc row you made into the foundation chain at the start of the blanket. 

Work 1 dc into the base of the stitch at the end of the Lime blanket row. 

Chain 2.

Slip stitch into the end of the foundation chain (shown by my needle in the above picture) to close the corner. Fasten off.

You may find that your corner join doesn't look particularly neat or corner-ish - please don't worry! The first round of any edging row is often a little bumpy in places, but it really doesn't matter too much.

Now for the final edge of this round - you'll be working up the right hand side of the blanket, from the bottom (foundation edge) to the top.

Insert your hook under the last single loop of the foundation chain and pull through a loop of yarn. Chain 2, then work 1 dc into the very end of the foundation chain to form a little corner - you have my permission to just stick your hook in wherever works for you as it might not be easy to see exactly where the very end of the foundation chain is. 

Now you will be working  in exactly the same way as you did for the other long side, inserting your hook around the post of the end stitches. 

*Work 2 dc into the end of the next tr row.

Work 1 dc into the end of the next dc row.*

Repeat between **, working 3 dc stitches into the end of each ripple stripe, all the way up to the top.

You might find you need to wiggle your hook a little more to get under the ends of those rows, as this is the side where you will have darned in all your ends. Just take your time and try and keep an even tension as  you work. 

When you arrive at the top of the sky, you will be joining up to where you started. 

Work 1 dc in the same stitch as the beginning Lime chain-2 (shown by my needle in the above picture)

Chain 2.

Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to join up the corner.

I bet you're glad that first round is out of the way eh?!

The next three rounds are all worked using Slip Stitch in Back Loops Only.

NOTE : in my experience, it can be tricky to maintain a normal tension when you are working slip stitches, and there is a tendency for the stitches to pull tighter than usual.  I would advise using a larger hook size (I have a tight tension so I move up a whole mm in order to keep my stitches even and not too tight). If you naturally have a loose tension, then you may not need to do this. You will probably have a good idea how it's looking once you've worked half a side - take the time to lay the blanket out flat and see if your edging is laying flat. A little bit of pulling is natural and can be eased with blocking at the end, so try not to overly worry about it, but if it seems like it's really pulling in the ripple rows, then switch to a larger hook. 

ROUND 2 :: Use Spice Yarn

Begin at the bottom right hand corner, you will be working in the Back Loops Only. 

Insert your hook under the back loop of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Slip stitch under the back loop of the next stitch along (shown by my needle in the above picture)

Slip stitch under the Back Loop of each stitch along the long side of the blanket......

....taking care to keep your tension as even as possible and slightly on the loose side. Keep checking to make sure your ripples aren't being pulled in or distorted as you work (they may pull in a weeny bit, but a little bit of steam blocking at the end will sort that out).

Your slip stitches will be forming a super-neat chain on the front of the blanket.....

......and a line of straight stitches on the reverse. It's a very robust row of crochet, designed to keep your blanket in shape over time (the Woodland Ripple is pretty stretchy and needs to be kept in check!)

When you reach the top right corner, simply carry your slip stitches around the Back Loops of the corner you made in round 1. The effect is gently curvy and no additional stitches are needed to turn the corners in this round.

Carry on with your slip stitches, working along the rippled edge in Back Loops Only, taking care to keep your tension even.

Turn the corner in the same way as before, then continue down the left hand side of the blanket to the bottom.

When you work your slip stitches along the bottom edge of the blanket, you'll be working under the single loops of the foundation chain (shown my by my needle in the above picture).

Just as you did along the top of the blanket, continue to follow the curves along the bottom edge.....

....until you get right back to where you started.

We're going to make an invisible join now. So after the last slip stitch, cut your yarn leaving a 6 inch tail end for darning. Use your hook and pull away from your crochet so that your loop gets bigger - keep pulling until the end pulls right through the last slip stitch. Take care not to pull the slip stitch tight.

Thread the yarn end onto a needle, and pass the needle under both loops of the first stitch you made in this round (as shown in the above picture)

Now insert your hook down through the chain that was formed when you made the last slip stitch in this round. Pull gently until you've formed a neat closing chain.

Ta-dah! Is that invisible enough for you?!!! Darn in your ends securely on the reverse of the blanket.

ROUND 3 :: Use Gold Yarn

Begin at the bottom right hand corner, you will be working in the Back Loops Only. 

Insert your hook under the back loop of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Slip stitch under the back loop of the next stitch along (shown by my needle in the above picture)

Slip stitch in Back Loops Only of every stitch you made in round 2. Be mindful of your tension, keep it loose and even and don't let the stitches pull too tight.

Your corners and curvy edges won't need any additional stitches, although you may notice the rippled edges curling very slightly. Don't worry too much - a little bit of steam blocking at the end will help with that.

When you get back to where you started, use the invisible join method described in round 2 to form that closing chain. Darn in ends securely.

ROUND 4 :: Use Tomato Yarn

Begin at the bottom right hand corner, you will be working in the Back Loops Only. 

Insert your hook under the back loop of the first stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Slip stitch under the back loop of the next stitch along, and in every stitch around the blanket.

I LOVE this final round - the chains are so pleasing to look at make such a neat finish to the edge of the edge.

Round 4 is a repeat of round 3, so slipstream your way right around the blanket until you get back to where you started, then work an invisible join to finish off.

This is what your Slipstream edge should look like after four rounds of crochet....the front is like a very neat braided edge.

The back looks different to the front (straight stitches instead of chains) but equally neat.

BLOCKING

Your edging will really benefit from a little bit of light blocking, especially if find the rippled ends are curling, or your straight sides are pulling a little.

Use a steam iron set to a low heat and remember that THE IRON DOES NOT EVER TOUCH THE CROCHET! You will be holding the iron a few inches above the surface and puffing steam down into the stitches - this is all about moisture and warmth, no pressure or contact with the crochet!

Work around the edge of the blanket, working on small sections at a time. There is no need to use pins, just stretch and smooth the edges of the blanket with your hands, puffing steam into the stitches, then smoothing/stretching/shaping with your hands as you go. Please take care with the steam - you should have the iron on a cool setting, but be careful of your  hands. 

Your blanket is now ready to be snuggled and enjoyed - I hope it brings you ooodles of pleasure!

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Here are some links to previous CAL posts for the Woodland Ripple blanket ::

{WOODLAND BLANKET YARN PACK}

{WOODLAND BLANKET CAL : introduction}

{WOODLAND BLANKET CAL : Q&A}

{WOODLAND RIPPLE PATTERN}

{WOODLAND CAL PART 1 : colour info for stripes 1 - 18 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 2 : colour info for stripes 19 - 36 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 3 : colour info for stripes 37 - 54 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 4 : colour info for stripes 55 - 72 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 5 : colour info for stripes 73 - 90 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 6 : colour info for stripes 91 - 105 } 

{WOODLAND CAL PART 7 : The Border }




 

 

Comments

[Ali Clarke]

Just finished! I never thought I would ever be able to make something like this. I am so grateful for your inspiration and information particularly through everything we have all been living through. Making this blanket has helped me so much and kept me warm xxx

[Lara]

Hi Lucy - I've just finished my Woodland blanket and just wanted to say I absolutely love, love, love the slipstream edging! I'm trying to think of things I can make so I can use it on other stuff :)

[julie]

My first ever CAL and I enjoyed it immensely, thank you so much. The step by step pictures really helped and I absolutely love the gorgeous array of colours.

[Shelley Corcoran]

Hi Lucy,
I am working on the final rounds of the border of the Woodland Blanket CAL. My question relates to the washing and care instructions for the future.

[Jan Macdonald]

Hello Lucy I’m a fairly crochet newbie having only made solid coloured granny squares before starting this beautiful Woodland creation. After a few unsteadybstarys I am well underway and hoping to finish and attempt the border. My question for you is it possible to make your beautiful harmony granny squares blanket on the move? I’m off to visit my daughter and family in BC Canada in June and always like knitting etc to do on the long plane journey and whilst there. I couldn’t take all the full sized balls of wool. Will it be easy to work out how much wool from each colour I should unravel and wind? Sorry to be a pain but hopefully you will understand what I’m trying to ask/say. Many thanks. I love all your designs and blogs. Keep me going often. Jan

[Anne-Marie]

Finished!!!
Feels great to have finished - it is gorgeous - but also slightly bereft.
Thank you for all your hard work on this project - it is the very first CAL I have done. Took me much longer than the 7 weeks, but it really doesn't matter. Really pleased and husband and sons also think it is fab.

[Mary Lloyd Jones]

Oh it looks soooo good,beautifulLucy.

[Carol]

Love, love, love your work! You've inspired me to order several yarn packs from the UK and I am anxiously awaiting them here in the US. Thanks so much!

[Carlyn]

Love it - simple, strong and effective!

[Sarah]

I don't think you could have chosen a better border, it looks perfect!!