This lovely pattern creates a softly undulating wavy stripe using three basic crochet stitches. It's also a really neat way to play with colour, I find it amazing how the colours seem to roll into each other with the ups and downs of the wave pattern. The "crochet wave" isn't a new concept by any means - the general idea of it it has existed for a long time in the public domain just as a granny square or ripple/chevron stripe has. I want to be clear and say that I'm not claiming it as mine. I've designed my own interpretation, using two rows for each stripe, and only three different stitches to create the rise and fall of the waves.
The above image is a cushion cover I made using up colourful oddments of Stylecraft Special DK - you can read more about this project on my blog here. The Neat Wave pattern is ideal for cushions as the crochet comes out quite dense with no holes.
It's also wonderful for making blankets, and there is a huge amount of pleasure to be found in creating long wavy stripes of colour. The pattern is simple to work I promise you, with only a small amount of counting (the stitches are worked in pairs, so only counting in twos!). Changing between the three different stitches to create the rise and fall of the waves does take a little bit of getting used to at first, and you do need to concentrate to remember where you are in the sequence, but the whole thing is extremely soothing and rhythmic.
MATERIALS
For my blankets I use Stylecraft Special DK which is a 100% premium acrylic yarn. It's lovely to work with, comes in generous 100g balls and the finished blankets are warm, soft and machine washable. If you are joining in with my Moorland Blanket Crochet-a-Long (CAL), you will already be familiar with the fifteen colours I've chosen to make my blanket inspired by the Yorkshire Moors.
Here are some useful links for the Moorland CAL which runs throughout January and February 2017 :
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : introduction}
HOOK SIZE and TENSION
The standard hook size for Stylecraft Special DK yarn is 4 mm. However, after much sampling and experimenting, I've found that the Neat Wave stripes look much better if they aren't worked too tightly. For example, I'm a tight crocheter so I'm making my Moorland Blanket using a 5 mm hook. If you crochet quite loosely, then you will probably find that a 4mm hook suits you just fine.
This tutorial will show you how to make a small tension sample. Please, please take the time to do this, especially if you are following the CAL and using a yarn pack to make a blanket. It'll help you make your blanket the right size and drape, and will make sure you don't run out of yarn. Making this small sample before you begin on your blanket will also help you to feel familiar with the pattern and decide which hook size will work best for you.
Towards the end of this tutorial, I'll give you some guidelines to help you decide on the finished size of your project, and the correct number of starting chains/pattern repeats to make.
As mentioned above, the Neat Wave pattern uses three basic stitches to create the rise and fall using the different stitch heights. I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
NEAT WAVE TENSION SAMPLE
*The starting chain for the Neat Wave pattern is always a multiple of 10, plus an extra 1 for turning*
To begin : Chain 31 (3 x 10, plus an extra 1)
Foundation Row 1 : Start in 2nd chain from hook (shown by my needle in the above picture)
Work 1 dc in each stitch along. Do not fasten off. Turn. [30 stitches]
Have a quick count of your stitches to make sure you have 30. When you make a bigger project, this first foundation row should always be a multiple of 10.
Foundation Row 2 :
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Ignore the very first stitch at the base of the chain, and start in the stitch shown by my needle in the above photo).
Work htr; htr; dc; dc (as in above photo)
This stitch sequence (the beginning ch-3 counts as the first stitch) makes up the starting half of the pattern repeat.
Now work the following ten stitches:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc. (as shown above)
These ten stitches form the basic Neat Wave pattern repeat.....
I thought it might help to see a graphic representation of the pattern repeat. You can see how the stitches are worked in pairs to create the rise and fall of the wave. We'll be referring to this throughout the tutorial.
Work another full pattern repeat, as follows :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
You should have five stitches left now (as in above picture)
Work dc; dc; htr; htr; tr.
This stitch sequence makes up the ending half of the pattern repeat.
Fasten off.
You can see from my sample, the wave is very subtle at this point - that's OK! Once you work the next two rows, you'll begin to see the wave emerge properly.
You will probably find your crochet is a bit curly at this point, but if you can lay it flat (try pinning it to the carpet without stretching it), you need to have a measure. Your sample should measure approximately 19 cm wide.
If your sample is bowed like a rainbow, this usually means your starting chain is too tight. Try again using a bigger hook size (just for making the foundation chain), then switch back to work the foundation rows.
Joining a new colour :
At the end of each row you will turn your work - this means that you will always join a new colour at the same side where you fastened off the previous row.
When I join a new colour I don't worry about knotting it or securing it. Simply insert your hook into the first stitch, and pull through a loop of the new colour, leaving a 10-15cm tail end that you can darn in afterwards. You will need to hold onto the tail end to keep the loop around your hook from pulling too big, but once you make your starting chain, give your tail end a light tug to tighten that first loop and it'll be fine.
Row 1 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), as in above photo.
Work 1 dc in next stitch (as in above photo)
Work 1 htr in each of the next two stitches (as in above photo)
Work 1 tr in each of the next two stitches (as in above photo)
Work 1 htr in each of the next two stitches (as in above photo)
Work 1 dc in each of the next two stitches (as in above photo).
This stitch sequence (ten stitches) forms the Neat Wave pattern repeat - here's a reminder of the graphic...
You will find yourself saying them in your head as you work, thinking of them in pairs as you rise and fall.
Work another full pattern repeat, as follows :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
Work dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr.
You should have one stitch left, plus the top of the ch-3 from the previous row.
Work 1 dc in the last proper stitch, then 1 dc in the top of the ch-3 (as shown by my needle in the above picture)
This completes the last pattern repeat. Do not fasten off. Turn.
Row 2 :
*note: row 2 is exactly the same as row 1, but I'm going to talk you through it just to be clear.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc)
*note : For new crocheters, knowing exactly where to stick your hook at the start and end each row can be confusing! The general rule is to ignore the very first stitch which sits right at the base of your turning chain. Insert your hook where I've stuck my needle - it might feel as if you're leaving a bit of a gap at the start of the row there, but your sides will be be kept straight and your stitches will line up so it's all good!
A quick reminder of the stitch sequence (!)
Work dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
*note : remember your beginning ch-2 counts as 1 dc.
Work another full pattern repeat, as follows :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
Work dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr.
You should have one stitch left, plus the top of the ch-3 from the previous row.
Work 1 dc in the last proper stitch, then 1 dc in the top of the ch-2 (as shown by my needle in the above picture). Fasten off, leaving a 10-15cm tail end for darning in later.
Now you should be able to see the Neat Wave looking decidedly more wavy!
DARNING IN ENDS
I prefer to darn in my ends at the end of each stripe - it takes mere seconds, and for me personally I would much rather do this than be faced with dozens of dangly bits getting in the way every time I pick up my blanket to work on. I thought it might be useful to show you how I darn my ends in for this particular pattern.
Firstly, it's a good idea to leave the tail end that you just ended with, as this will remind you which side you'll be joining your next colour (it's not easy to tell right side/wrong side with this pattern).
Start with the tail end created at the beginning of row 1. Thread it onto a darning needle and pass you needle upwards through the end stitches (as in above photo).
Now pass the needle through the stitches along the middle of the stripe, taking it through about 8 or 10 stitches (as above)
Now pass the needle back the way you came, taking the tail end along through the stitches until you pop out at the outside edge of the blanket....
By darning in both directions, you will make a secure finish. And by finishing up on the outside edge you will prevent the tail ends from sticking out into the body of the blanket.
Now deal with the tail end from the end of the stripe below. Darn this under the stitches as shown above.
Then as before, take your needle back the way you came until you pop out at the outside edge....
Now with both your tail ends securely darned and back and forth, you can snip them off.....
......SNIP!!!!!! Note that the tail end that finished the last stripe remains in place so that you know where to join in your next colour.
Turn your work so that yarn ends are on the right hand side (this will mean the right hand side of the blanket is facing you).
Join a new colour by inserting the hook into the first stitch and drawing through a loop of yarn, remembering to leave a tail end of 10-15cm.
Row 3 :
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr)
Work htr; htr; dc; dc (as in above photo)
This stitch sequence (the beginning ch-3 counts as the first stitch) makes up the starting half of the pattern repeat.
You should be starting to feel at ease with this pattern sequence now, getting the hang of changing stitch heights (I hope so?!)
Now work the following ten stitches:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc. (as shown above)
These ten stitches form the basic Neat Wave pattern repeat.....but you know that by now, don't you?!
Work another pattern repeat as follows :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
Work dc; dc; htr; htr.
Now work 1 tr into the top of the ch-2 from the previous row.
Sometimes this can be quite tight - you might need to really wiggle your hook to get it to go in there (a little brute force is acceptable)
Don't fasten off, but turn your work.
Row 4 :
*note: row 4 is exactly the same as row 3, but I'm going to talk you through it just to be clear.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr).
Same as before, make sure you are sticking your hook into the right stitch (ignore that one at the base of the chain you just made)
Work htr; htr; dc; dc.
Now is a good time to talk about having a good look at the stitches you are making and how the rows are beginning to fit together. The easiest stitches to pick out are the treble crochet's which are the two tallest stitches in the middle of the pattern repeat. When you work the return row, it's a good idea to make regular checks to see that the treble stitches are lining up and matching the trebles from the row below.
This sample should be pretty easy to keep on track as you are only making three pattern repeats to fit 30 stitches, but when you come to make a blanket there is a lot more scope for these stitches to go wrong! I found that if I didn't get interrupted by anything or anybody, my mind could wander a little and the pairs of stitches would go nicely up and down with no problems. If I arrived at a point where they weren't lining up or didn't look right, then it's a case of counting/checking the stitches from the very beginning of the row to find out where the mistake occurred. If you make regular checks as you go along, then mistakes will be easier to spot and less unraveling to do!
Right then, back to the pattern - time to make another pattern repeat....
Work dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
And another one :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
Five stitches remaining now.....
Work dc; dc; htr; htr.
Work 1 tr into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row to finish. Fasten off and darn in ends.
Row 5 :
*note: row 5 is exactly the same as row 1, but I'm going to talk you through it just to be clear.
Turn your work so that the tail end from the previous row is on your right, which will mean the right side of the work is facing you. Insert your hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour, remembering to leave a 10-15cm tail end for darning in later.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc)
Work the following stitches :
dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc (as in above photo - one full pattern repeat)
Work two more pattern repeats to complete the row, with the very last dc being worked into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row. If you were reading a conventional pattern, this is how it would be written :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc) twice.
This means repeat the whole sequence of stitches within the brackets twice.
Don't fasten off, turn the work.
Row 6 :
*note: row 6 is exactly the same as row 2, but I'm going to talk you through it just to be clear.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc). Locate the first stitch, remembering to ignore the stitch at the base of the chain.
Work dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
If you look at the above photo, can you see how the tall treble stitches are lining up with the ones below? They are very slightly offset to the left, but it's a good visual check to get used to with this pattern.
Just as in the previous row, you now need to make two more complete pattern repeats, as follows :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc) twice.
Remember that the very last dc will be worked into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row. Fasten off.
So.....that's it for your first Neat Wave sample.
Hopefully, you should now feel familiar with the way the pattern repeats are working. I'll write out the full pattern towards the end of this tutorial, but really it is very simple and you can see there is a lot of repetition. A couple of things which might help:
- Each stripe is made up of two identical rows with identical pattern repeats, meaning the stitches will line up and mirror each other.
- The stripes will alternate - ie the first stripe begins with ch-3 and a half pattern repeat, the second stripe begins with a ch-2 and a full pattern repeat, the third stripe then goes back to starting with a ch-3 and a half pattern repeat, the fourth stripe will start with a ch-2 and a full pattern repeat etc etc. I hope this make sense??
Now we need to do some more measuring and decide if your hook size is working for you.
Your sample should measure approximately 19 cm wide. It should sit nice and flat and relaxed with no curving, ruffling or bowing.
You should also measure the height - with this pattern, the height is as important as the width. Your sample should measure 6cm tall. There will be a little bit of surface texture, but your waves should look quite open and flat and wavy.
When I worked my samples using a 4mm hook, my rows were too tight, they kind of shrank into each other and made the height of the blanket much smaller than it should have been. I tried a 4.5mm hook, but the results were the same. Eventually, a 5mm hook gave the stitches the extra breathing space that they needed to allow the waves to relax and lie flat. This is a very difficult thing to guage I guess, but trust your instincts with your own crochet tension, and try to end up with a sample which is a close to 19 cm x 6 cm as you can get it. This will make sure that you will use your yarn efficiently and end up with a blanket which is the right size and not a scrunched up version lacking in height!!
Lets talk about the edges now - I know a lot of new crocheters worry about "wobbly edge syndrome", and really much of this comes down to crochet practice and maintaining an even tension as you work.
The above photo shows the edge of my Neat Wave blanket where the rows start and end, and where the tail ends are darned in. As you can see, it's a little bit wobbly, but I know from experience that once a neat little edging is added, the wobbles will completely disappear.
The other edge is the one where you turn between rows and should look much straighter. Again, a lot of this comes down to an even crochet tension when you make your turning chains. If you are new to crochet, this will come with practice so don't worry if your turning edge looks wobbly. Edging a blanket covers up an awful lot of lumps and bumps!
So......I'm thinking you will have worked one or two samples, you'll be delighted with the pattern, you'll have sussed out the right hook size and are now raring to go with your very own Neat Wave project??? Excellent!!! So now we need to establish our starting chain to create the size of blanket we need.
If you are using one of my yarn packs (eg the Moorland pack pictured above), you'll have 15 x 100g of DK weight yarn. This is enough to make a blanket measuring 120 x 170cm (approximately single bed size).
Remember, the starting chain for the Neat Wave pattern is always a multiple of 10, plus an extra 1.
Single/Twin bed size blanket = 120cm / 4ft width = starting chain of 181. This will make 18 pattern repeats along the row.
We can use this basic calculation to decide on a starting chain for a bigger blanket using 2 yarn packs (30 x 100g DK weight yarn). Double bed widths vary enormously, so you will need to decide which width you want.
Standard double bed size blanket = 180cm / 6ft width = starting chain of 301. This will make 30 pattern repeats along the row.
If you want to add an extra 30 cm / 12" to the width, you will need to add an extra 5 pattern repeats which is 50 chains....
Double Bed size measuring 210cm / 7ft width = starting chain of 351. This will make 35 pattern repeats along the row.
Remember that every pattern repeat (10 extra starting chains) will add approx. 6cm to your blanket width.
I know this might sound complicated, but I'm hoping you'll be able to use my numbers to work out what you need. Also please remember, these are very approximate guidelines, and are based on you matching your tension to mine!
I know some of you are wanting to make a Neat Wave cushion - I made mine to fit a 45 cm square cushion pad.
45cm Neat Wave square = starting chain of 81 (8 pattern repeats).
More details about my cushion, including colour info and making up instructions are on my blog here.
I'm going to write out the Neat Wave pattern for you now, hoping that you've made the sample, have got your hook size sorted, and know what width you will be making. I'll write the pattern based on my own Moorland Blanket, which measures just a little bit less than 120cm / 4ft wide.
MOORLAND BLANKET / NEAT WAVE
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
st = stitch
ch = chain
*starting chain is always a multiple of 10, plus an extra 1
Using colour Cypress, chain 181.
Foundation Row 1 : starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 dc in each chain. Do not fasten off; turn. [180 sts]
Foundation Row 2 : Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Ignore st at base of ch, work the following :
htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times until 5 stitches remain.
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc)
Now work the following:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr. Fasten off, leaving a 10-15cm tail end for darning in.
Turn your work so that your tail end is on the right hand side, meaning the right side of the work is facing you.
Row 1 :
Using colour Lime, insert hook in first st and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc).
Work the following :
dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times, working the last dc into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc). Do not fasten off, turn.
Row 2 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc). Ignore st at base of ch, work the following :
dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times, working the last dc into the top of the ch-2 from the previous row :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc). Fasten off, leaving a 10-15cm tail end for darning in.
Row 3 :
Using colour Khaki, insert hook in first st and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Ignore st at base of ch, work the following :
htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times, working the last tr into the top of the ch-2 from the previous row :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc)
Now work the following:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr. Do not fasten off, turn.
Row 4 :
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Ignore st at base of ch, work the following :
htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times, working the last tr into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc)
Now work the following:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr. Fasten off, leaving a 10-15cm tail end for darning in.
Turn your work so that your tail end is on the right hand side, meaning the right side of the work is facing you.
Row 5 : Using Meadow yarn, repeat Row 1.
Row 6 : Repeat Row 2.
Row 7 : Using Pistachio yarn, repeat Row 3.
Row 8 : Repeat Row 4.
Continue working your Neat Wave stripes, repeating Rows 1 - 4, until you get to the last stripe at the very top edge of the blanket. All colour info for the stripes can be found within the CAL posts on my blog - links are given at the end.
Last Stripe :
Work the first row as a Neat Wave pattern; turn.
Chain 2, then work 1 dc in each stitch across to create a straight edge. Fasten off.
Here is a reminder of the pattern repeat graphic :
❤ MOORLAND BLANKET EDGING TUTORIAL ❤
If you are joining in my Moorland Blanket Crochet-a-Long (CAL), I will be giving you colour information every Friday throughout January and February - there will be 20 stripes to complete each week (115 in total) with optional stripes added throughout the blanket if you wish to make it a little longer.
Here are the links for CAL information (go to CAL : Part 1 for the first lot of colour info)
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : introduction}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 1 : stripes 1-20}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 2 : stripes 21-40}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 3 : stripes 41-60}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 4 : stripes 61-80}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 5 : stripes 81-100}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 6 : stripes 101-115}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 7 : The Border}
I really hope you enjoy your Neat Wave journey, whatever colours you are using and whatever size you decide on.
Have fun!
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sample made! Ready to start in Georgia (USA)! My sweet daughters bought me the yarn pack for Christmas. I've been excitedly waiting for this day! I made the Cosy Stripe blanket in 2016. Love your blankets and color combinations, Lucy!
Posted by: Bonnie | January 06, 2017 at 11:04 PM
Love the Moorland! Ready to start! I have read the pattern through and I will assume that in the pattern for "last stripe", that means the last of the blanket and not part 1? Looks like all the rows will be wave pattern and no straight rows. Correct? Thanks for the hard work that you have put in to bringing this CAL to us...well a labor of love really! Hooky hugs from Mary in Arizona!!
Posted by: Mary | January 06, 2017 at 06:53 PM
Thank you for the fun pattern. Hugs from Arizona USA
Posted by: Sandi | January 06, 2017 at 06:17 PM
Thanks Lucy. What a great way to begin 2017. I've always admired your blankets - this is my first CAL. I'm so eager to begin. Received the yarn package as a birthday present! (It only took one hint - hahaha!!)
Posted by: Emily S | January 06, 2017 at 05:54 PM
Wow, Thank-you Lucy! Such detailed instructions w/photos. Have my cuppa and ready to begin...
^..^ ^..^
Posted by: Mary | January 06, 2017 at 04:17 PM
Hi Lucy. If I use the wool from the pack for the sample will I have enough to complete the blanket still or should I use some other wool for the sample?
Posted by: Catherine | January 06, 2017 at 03:54 PM
Thank you for sharing your beautiful pattern with us. I love your colour combination, I would never ever come up with this colourscheme! Now I am eager to start but wanted to thank you first. Keep up the good work!!
Posted by: Marjo from Rotterdam | January 06, 2017 at 03:52 PM
Can you please suggest any helpful tips if all I have to work with is worsted weight yarn, not DK?
Posted by: Jenny Tribout | January 06, 2017 at 03:46 PM
Hi Lucy, just a quick question about the stitch counts... you say the pattern repeat goes dc,dc,htr,htr,tr,tr,htr,htr,dc,dc... so does that mean the next repeat starts with 2 dc? i.e. are there 4 x dc in a row between the taller stitches, or are the last 2 dc of one repeat counted as the first 2 dc of the next one? Hope that makes sense!
Thanks, looking forward to having a beautiful Moorland blanket for summer camping!
Posted by: Nikki | January 06, 2017 at 03:07 PM
Thank you for the awesome instructions! I got the kit for Christmas and I can't wait to start!!!!
Posted by: Julie | January 06, 2017 at 03:04 PM
The colours have been calling to me still in their bag from when they arrived
I'm so looking forward to getting them out so I can get started
Thank you so much 😘
Posted by: Louise Ballantine | January 06, 2017 at 02:59 PM
Dear Lucy Thank you for your beautiful pattern. It must have taken you hours
of work with the instructions, diagrams,photos etc. So I have read all the instructions carefully. Now I am about to rush around the rest of the house and finish housework before I sit down; crochet my sample and check the tension.
A big hug from me. x
Posted by: Sarah Jones | January 06, 2017 at 02:34 PM
I too have been checking since early this morning so that I can use my Christmas gift of the yarn pack and knit pro crochet hooks!! So excited that I've already completed the tension sample and am raring to go. Housework on hold for an hour....or three!!! Thank you so much, Lucy.
Kate
Posted by: Kate Walters | January 06, 2017 at 02:06 PM
I've been so impatient waiting for this and now its here!!!! I'm reading this in my lunchtime at work and I wish so much that I had bought some yarn and my hooks with me so I can get started. Still, I am looking forward to spending a couple of hours this evening in my cozy armchair, a glass of my favourite tipple at my side, making my tension sample and maybe starting the blanket. Many thanks for all your hard work with this.
Posted by: Anne | January 06, 2017 at 01:53 PM
Wow - thank you so much for this very detailed tutorial. That was A LOT of work for you! Looking forward to diving in and starting this afternoon.
Posted by: Liz | January 06, 2017 at 01:51 PM
My compliments for your Neat Wave! I never did much crochet because its effect is so often "stiff", but your Wave is just wonderfully wavy. I am at my 20th row now, having started before Christmas. I just couldn't wait, with all those yummy Moorland Pack colours! Henriet from Holland
Posted by: Henriet Ferguson | January 06, 2017 at 01:48 PM
Thanks Lucy, this has been eagerly awaited.
I made your Coast Ripple blanket and it is much loved and cant wait to start this tonight when I go home, just need to decide whether to do a single or double blanket....decisions, decisions.
Hope you feel a lot better soon.
Posted by: Kate Holmes | January 06, 2017 at 01:46 PM
You just made my morning! Thanks, Lucy!! <3
Posted by: Maria | January 06, 2017 at 01:19 PM
THANKS A BUNCH, dear Lucy ! I was soooo impatient, checking your blog from early this morning on ! :)
Just one question, Lucy (sorry) : you mention 110 cm width for a single bed... and then 120 cm (which is preferable to me). Then a total 181 chain stitches ---> will this be for the (approx) 120cm width ?
THANK YOU for your kind answer, Lucy, and I do hope you're really feeling better. Flu is so nasty.... Take care !
In stitches,
Nadine (Belgium)
Posted by: NADINE | January 06, 2017 at 01:13 PM
Thank you, Lucy! Very excited to give it a go! Nancy in Indiana, USA
Posted by: Nancy | January 06, 2017 at 12:56 PM
A www thank you my lovely such a kind lady to give us all your special time & hard work ☺️ You are a star 💝 love making all your beauties xxx
Posted by: Ann Baxter | January 06, 2017 at 12:48 PM