This lovely pattern creates a softly undulating wavy stripe using three basic crochet stitches. It's also a really neat way to play with colour, I find it amazing how the colours seem to roll into each other with the ups and downs of the wave pattern. The "crochet wave" isn't a new concept by any means - the general idea of it it has existed for a long time in the public domain just as a granny square or ripple/chevron stripe has. I want to be clear and say that I'm not claiming it as mine. I've designed my own interpretation, using two rows for each stripe, and only three different stitches to create the rise and fall of the waves.
The above image is a cushion cover I made using up colourful oddments of Stylecraft Special DK - you can read more about this project on my blog here. The Neat Wave pattern is ideal for cushions as the crochet comes out quite dense with no holes.
It's also wonderful for making blankets, and there is a huge amount of pleasure to be found in creating long wavy stripes of colour. The pattern is simple to work I promise you, with only a small amount of counting (the stitches are worked in pairs, so only counting in twos!). Changing between the three different stitches to create the rise and fall of the waves does take a little bit of getting used to at first, and you do need to concentrate to remember where you are in the sequence, but the whole thing is extremely soothing and rhythmic.
MATERIALS
For my blankets I use Stylecraft Special DK which is a 100% premium acrylic yarn. It's lovely to work with, comes in generous 100g balls and the finished blankets are warm, soft and machine washable. If you are joining in with my Moorland Blanket Crochet-a-Long (CAL), you will already be familiar with the fifteen colours I've chosen to make my blanket inspired by the Yorkshire Moors.
Here are some useful links for the Moorland CAL which runs throughout January and February 2017 :
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : introduction}
HOOK SIZE and TENSION
The standard hook size for Stylecraft Special DK yarn is 4 mm. However, after much sampling and experimenting, I've found that the Neat Wave stripes look much better if they aren't worked too tightly. For example, I'm a tight crocheter so I'm making my Moorland Blanket using a 5 mm hook. If you crochet quite loosely, then you will probably find that a 4mm hook suits you just fine.
This tutorial will show you how to make a small tension sample. Please, please take the time to do this, especially if you are following the CAL and using a yarn pack to make a blanket. It'll help you make your blanket the right size and drape, and will make sure you don't run out of yarn. Making this small sample before you begin on your blanket will also help you to feel familiar with the pattern and decide which hook size will work best for you.
Towards the end of this tutorial, I'll give you some guidelines to help you decide on the finished size of your project, and the correct number of starting chains/pattern repeats to make.
As mentioned above, the Neat Wave pattern uses three basic stitches to create the rise and fall using the different stitch heights. I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
NEAT WAVE TENSION SAMPLE
*The starting chain for the Neat Wave pattern is always a multiple of 10, plus an extra 1 for turning*
To begin : Chain 31 (3 x 10, plus an extra 1)
Foundation Row 1 : Start in 2nd chain from hook (shown by my needle in the above picture)
Work 1 dc in each stitch along. Do not fasten off. Turn. [30 stitches]
Have a quick count of your stitches to make sure you have 30. When you make a bigger project, this first foundation row should always be a multiple of 10.
Foundation Row 2 :
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Ignore the very first stitch at the base of the chain, and start in the stitch shown by my needle in the above photo).
Work htr; htr; dc; dc (as in above photo)
This stitch sequence (the beginning ch-3 counts as the first stitch) makes up the starting half of the pattern repeat.
Now work the following ten stitches:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc. (as shown above)
These ten stitches form the basic Neat Wave pattern repeat.....
I thought it might help to see a graphic representation of the pattern repeat. You can see how the stitches are worked in pairs to create the rise and fall of the wave. We'll be referring to this throughout the tutorial.
Work another full pattern repeat, as follows :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
You should have five stitches left now (as in above picture)
Work dc; dc; htr; htr; tr.
This stitch sequence makes up the ending half of the pattern repeat.
Fasten off.
You can see from my sample, the wave is very subtle at this point - that's OK! Once you work the next two rows, you'll begin to see the wave emerge properly.
You will probably find your crochet is a bit curly at this point, but if you can lay it flat (try pinning it to the carpet without stretching it), you need to have a measure. Your sample should measure approximately 19 cm wide.
If your sample is bowed like a rainbow, this usually means your starting chain is too tight. Try again using a bigger hook size (just for making the foundation chain), then switch back to work the foundation rows.
Joining a new colour :
At the end of each row you will turn your work - this means that you will always join a new colour at the same side where you fastened off the previous row.
When I join a new colour I don't worry about knotting it or securing it. Simply insert your hook into the first stitch, and pull through a loop of the new colour, leaving a 10-15cm tail end that you can darn in afterwards. You will need to hold onto the tail end to keep the loop around your hook from pulling too big, but once you make your starting chain, give your tail end a light tug to tighten that first loop and it'll be fine.
Row 1 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), as in above photo.
Work 1 dc in next stitch (as in above photo)
Work 1 htr in each of the next two stitches (as in above photo)
Work 1 tr in each of the next two stitches (as in above photo)
Work 1 htr in each of the next two stitches (as in above photo)
Work 1 dc in each of the next two stitches (as in above photo).
This stitch sequence (ten stitches) forms the Neat Wave pattern repeat - here's a reminder of the graphic...
You will find yourself saying them in your head as you work, thinking of them in pairs as you rise and fall.
Work another full pattern repeat, as follows :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
Work dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr.
You should have one stitch left, plus the top of the ch-3 from the previous row.
Work 1 dc in the last proper stitch, then 1 dc in the top of the ch-3 (as shown by my needle in the above picture)
This completes the last pattern repeat. Do not fasten off. Turn.
Row 2 :
*note: row 2 is exactly the same as row 1, but I'm going to talk you through it just to be clear.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc)
*note : For new crocheters, knowing exactly where to stick your hook at the start and end each row can be confusing! The general rule is to ignore the very first stitch which sits right at the base of your turning chain. Insert your hook where I've stuck my needle - it might feel as if you're leaving a bit of a gap at the start of the row there, but your sides will be be kept straight and your stitches will line up so it's all good!
A quick reminder of the stitch sequence (!)
Work dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
*note : remember your beginning ch-2 counts as 1 dc.
Work another full pattern repeat, as follows :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
Work dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr.
You should have one stitch left, plus the top of the ch-3 from the previous row.
Work 1 dc in the last proper stitch, then 1 dc in the top of the ch-2 (as shown by my needle in the above picture). Fasten off, leaving a 10-15cm tail end for darning in later.
Now you should be able to see the Neat Wave looking decidedly more wavy!
DARNING IN ENDS
I prefer to darn in my ends at the end of each stripe - it takes mere seconds, and for me personally I would much rather do this than be faced with dozens of dangly bits getting in the way every time I pick up my blanket to work on. I thought it might be useful to show you how I darn my ends in for this particular pattern.
Firstly, it's a good idea to leave the tail end that you just ended with, as this will remind you which side you'll be joining your next colour (it's not easy to tell right side/wrong side with this pattern).
Start with the tail end created at the beginning of row 1. Thread it onto a darning needle and pass you needle upwards through the end stitches (as in above photo).
Now pass the needle through the stitches along the middle of the stripe, taking it through about 8 or 10 stitches (as above)
Now pass the needle back the way you came, taking the tail end along through the stitches until you pop out at the outside edge of the blanket....
By darning in both directions, you will make a secure finish. And by finishing up on the outside edge you will prevent the tail ends from sticking out into the body of the blanket.
Now deal with the tail end from the end of the stripe below. Darn this under the stitches as shown above.
Then as before, take your needle back the way you came until you pop out at the outside edge....
Now with both your tail ends securely darned and back and forth, you can snip them off.....
......SNIP!!!!!! Note that the tail end that finished the last stripe remains in place so that you know where to join in your next colour.
Turn your work so that yarn ends are on the right hand side (this will mean the right hand side of the blanket is facing you).
Join a new colour by inserting the hook into the first stitch and drawing through a loop of yarn, remembering to leave a tail end of 10-15cm.
Row 3 :
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr)
Work htr; htr; dc; dc (as in above photo)
This stitch sequence (the beginning ch-3 counts as the first stitch) makes up the starting half of the pattern repeat.
You should be starting to feel at ease with this pattern sequence now, getting the hang of changing stitch heights (I hope so?!)
Now work the following ten stitches:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc. (as shown above)
These ten stitches form the basic Neat Wave pattern repeat.....but you know that by now, don't you?!
Work another pattern repeat as follows :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
Work dc; dc; htr; htr.
Now work 1 tr into the top of the ch-2 from the previous row.
Sometimes this can be quite tight - you might need to really wiggle your hook to get it to go in there (a little brute force is acceptable)
Don't fasten off, but turn your work.
Row 4 :
*note: row 4 is exactly the same as row 3, but I'm going to talk you through it just to be clear.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr).
Same as before, make sure you are sticking your hook into the right stitch (ignore that one at the base of the chain you just made)
Work htr; htr; dc; dc.
Now is a good time to talk about having a good look at the stitches you are making and how the rows are beginning to fit together. The easiest stitches to pick out are the treble crochet's which are the two tallest stitches in the middle of the pattern repeat. When you work the return row, it's a good idea to make regular checks to see that the treble stitches are lining up and matching the trebles from the row below.
This sample should be pretty easy to keep on track as you are only making three pattern repeats to fit 30 stitches, but when you come to make a blanket there is a lot more scope for these stitches to go wrong! I found that if I didn't get interrupted by anything or anybody, my mind could wander a little and the pairs of stitches would go nicely up and down with no problems. If I arrived at a point where they weren't lining up or didn't look right, then it's a case of counting/checking the stitches from the very beginning of the row to find out where the mistake occurred. If you make regular checks as you go along, then mistakes will be easier to spot and less unraveling to do!
Right then, back to the pattern - time to make another pattern repeat....
Work dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
And another one :
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
Five stitches remaining now.....
Work dc; dc; htr; htr.
Work 1 tr into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row to finish. Fasten off and darn in ends.
Row 5 :
*note: row 5 is exactly the same as row 1, but I'm going to talk you through it just to be clear.
Turn your work so that the tail end from the previous row is on your right, which will mean the right side of the work is facing you. Insert your hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour, remembering to leave a 10-15cm tail end for darning in later.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc)
Work the following stitches :
dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc (as in above photo - one full pattern repeat)
Work two more pattern repeats to complete the row, with the very last dc being worked into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row. If you were reading a conventional pattern, this is how it would be written :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc) twice.
This means repeat the whole sequence of stitches within the brackets twice.
Don't fasten off, turn the work.
Row 6 :
*note: row 6 is exactly the same as row 2, but I'm going to talk you through it just to be clear.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc). Locate the first stitch, remembering to ignore the stitch at the base of the chain.
Work dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc.
If you look at the above photo, can you see how the tall treble stitches are lining up with the ones below? They are very slightly offset to the left, but it's a good visual check to get used to with this pattern.
Just as in the previous row, you now need to make two more complete pattern repeats, as follows :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc) twice.
Remember that the very last dc will be worked into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row. Fasten off.
So.....that's it for your first Neat Wave sample.
Hopefully, you should now feel familiar with the way the pattern repeats are working. I'll write out the full pattern towards the end of this tutorial, but really it is very simple and you can see there is a lot of repetition. A couple of things which might help:
- Each stripe is made up of two identical rows with identical pattern repeats, meaning the stitches will line up and mirror each other.
- The stripes will alternate - ie the first stripe begins with ch-3 and a half pattern repeat, the second stripe begins with a ch-2 and a full pattern repeat, the third stripe then goes back to starting with a ch-3 and a half pattern repeat, the fourth stripe will start with a ch-2 and a full pattern repeat etc etc. I hope this make sense??
Now we need to do some more measuring and decide if your hook size is working for you.
Your sample should measure approximately 19 cm wide. It should sit nice and flat and relaxed with no curving, ruffling or bowing.
You should also measure the height - with this pattern, the height is as important as the width. Your sample should measure 6cm tall. There will be a little bit of surface texture, but your waves should look quite open and flat and wavy.
When I worked my samples using a 4mm hook, my rows were too tight, they kind of shrank into each other and made the height of the blanket much smaller than it should have been. I tried a 4.5mm hook, but the results were the same. Eventually, a 5mm hook gave the stitches the extra breathing space that they needed to allow the waves to relax and lie flat. This is a very difficult thing to guage I guess, but trust your instincts with your own crochet tension, and try to end up with a sample which is a close to 19 cm x 6 cm as you can get it. This will make sure that you will use your yarn efficiently and end up with a blanket which is the right size and not a scrunched up version lacking in height!!
Lets talk about the edges now - I know a lot of new crocheters worry about "wobbly edge syndrome", and really much of this comes down to crochet practice and maintaining an even tension as you work.
The above photo shows the edge of my Neat Wave blanket where the rows start and end, and where the tail ends are darned in. As you can see, it's a little bit wobbly, but I know from experience that once a neat little edging is added, the wobbles will completely disappear.
The other edge is the one where you turn between rows and should look much straighter. Again, a lot of this comes down to an even crochet tension when you make your turning chains. If you are new to crochet, this will come with practice so don't worry if your turning edge looks wobbly. Edging a blanket covers up an awful lot of lumps and bumps!
So......I'm thinking you will have worked one or two samples, you'll be delighted with the pattern, you'll have sussed out the right hook size and are now raring to go with your very own Neat Wave project??? Excellent!!! So now we need to establish our starting chain to create the size of blanket we need.
If you are using one of my yarn packs (eg the Moorland pack pictured above), you'll have 15 x 100g of DK weight yarn. This is enough to make a blanket measuring 120 x 170cm (approximately single bed size).
Remember, the starting chain for the Neat Wave pattern is always a multiple of 10, plus an extra 1.
Single/Twin bed size blanket = 120cm / 4ft width = starting chain of 181. This will make 18 pattern repeats along the row.
We can use this basic calculation to decide on a starting chain for a bigger blanket using 2 yarn packs (30 x 100g DK weight yarn). Double bed widths vary enormously, so you will need to decide which width you want.
Standard double bed size blanket = 180cm / 6ft width = starting chain of 301. This will make 30 pattern repeats along the row.
If you want to add an extra 30 cm / 12" to the width, you will need to add an extra 5 pattern repeats which is 50 chains....
Double Bed size measuring 210cm / 7ft width = starting chain of 351. This will make 35 pattern repeats along the row.
Remember that every pattern repeat (10 extra starting chains) will add approx. 6cm to your blanket width.
I know this might sound complicated, but I'm hoping you'll be able to use my numbers to work out what you need. Also please remember, these are very approximate guidelines, and are based on you matching your tension to mine!
I know some of you are wanting to make a Neat Wave cushion - I made mine to fit a 45 cm square cushion pad.
45cm Neat Wave square = starting chain of 81 (8 pattern repeats).
More details about my cushion, including colour info and making up instructions are on my blog here.
I'm going to write out the Neat Wave pattern for you now, hoping that you've made the sample, have got your hook size sorted, and know what width you will be making. I'll write the pattern based on my own Moorland Blanket, which measures just a little bit less than 120cm / 4ft wide.
MOORLAND BLANKET / NEAT WAVE
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
st = stitch
ch = chain
*starting chain is always a multiple of 10, plus an extra 1
Using colour Cypress, chain 181.
Foundation Row 1 : starting in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 dc in each chain. Do not fasten off; turn. [180 sts]
Foundation Row 2 : Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Ignore st at base of ch, work the following :
htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times until 5 stitches remain.
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc)
Now work the following:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr. Fasten off, leaving a 10-15cm tail end for darning in.
Turn your work so that your tail end is on the right hand side, meaning the right side of the work is facing you.
Row 1 :
Using colour Lime, insert hook in first st and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc).
Work the following :
dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times, working the last dc into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc). Do not fasten off, turn.
Row 2 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc). Ignore st at base of ch, work the following :
dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times, working the last dc into the top of the ch-2 from the previous row :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc). Fasten off, leaving a 10-15cm tail end for darning in.
Row 3 :
Using colour Khaki, insert hook in first st and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Ignore st at base of ch, work the following :
htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times, working the last tr into the top of the ch-2 from the previous row :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc)
Now work the following:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr. Do not fasten off, turn.
Row 4 :
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr). Ignore st at base of ch, work the following :
htr; htr; dc; dc;
Now work the following pattern repeat 17 times, working the last tr into the top of the ch-3 from the previous row :
(dc; dc; htr; htr; tr; tr; htr; htr; dc; dc)
Now work the following:
dc; dc; htr; htr; tr. Fasten off, leaving a 10-15cm tail end for darning in.
Turn your work so that your tail end is on the right hand side, meaning the right side of the work is facing you.
Row 5 : Using Meadow yarn, repeat Row 1.
Row 6 : Repeat Row 2.
Row 7 : Using Pistachio yarn, repeat Row 3.
Row 8 : Repeat Row 4.
Continue working your Neat Wave stripes, repeating Rows 1 - 4, until you get to the last stripe at the very top edge of the blanket. All colour info for the stripes can be found within the CAL posts on my blog - links are given at the end.
Last Stripe :
Work the first row as a Neat Wave pattern; turn.
Chain 2, then work 1 dc in each stitch across to create a straight edge. Fasten off.
Here is a reminder of the pattern repeat graphic :
❤ MOORLAND BLANKET EDGING TUTORIAL ❤
If you are joining in my Moorland Blanket Crochet-a-Long (CAL), I will be giving you colour information every Friday throughout January and February - there will be 20 stripes to complete each week (115 in total) with optional stripes added throughout the blanket if you wish to make it a little longer.
Here are the links for CAL information (go to CAL : Part 1 for the first lot of colour info)
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : introduction}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 1 : stripes 1-20}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 2 : stripes 21-40}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 3 : stripes 41-60}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 4 : stripes 61-80}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 5 : stripes 81-100}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 6 : stripes 101-115}
{MOORLAND BLANKET CAL : Part 7 : The Border}
I really hope you enjoy your Neat Wave journey, whatever colours you are using and whatever size you decide on.
Have fun!
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Hi, I’ve started the wave cushion and it’s looking good. Only thing is, I’m not sure which is supposed to be the right side - one looks more textured than the other (which I like as it looks like overlapping waves) - is that the right side? Thank you.
Posted by: Debbie | April 12, 2023 at 07:28 PM
Love the neat waves pattern! I'm not doing the moorland colour combo, just making it up as I go along, with regular stripes of grey and navy for continuity, but it's turning out okay and the wavy pattern is sooooo relaxing! Thank you xx
Posted by: Shirley | January 27, 2020 at 11:08 PM
Is there a written pattern available? I traveling where I have unreliable internet and would like to work on this while I’m away?
Thank You!
Posted by: Marjorie Pfister | November 24, 2019 at 07:16 AM
Looking forward to making this, starting next week. We walk a lot on the Pennines and Peak District moors, so the colours are really meaningful to me
Posted by: Patsy | May 17, 2019 at 10:13 PM
Can anyone help me? I don’t know what I am doing wrong but I can’t get my lines to work at all. I’m following the pattern as closely as I can but my waves are all lined up (all the wide parts are in a row and all the narrow parts are in a row) So everything is looking like a ripple rather than a wave! I’m at my wits end trying to sort it
Posted by: Anna | March 14, 2019 at 05:13 PM
Hi Lucy..Just had to write and Thank You so much for sharing your blanket brilliance..have just begun my Mooreland Blanket journey...wow! Making for my dear sister...can understand why no printed pattern came with the lovely yarn...your tutorials and expert guidance can only be gleened and appreciated via Attic24...following your instructions exactly from a color coded yarn card..brilliant...to making a swatch or two to watching my stitch count etc...your guidance is invaluable....have made my own written instructions matching stripe colors with row sequence...its all good and success and joy is mine because of you...your hours spent designing are made manifest in me making something so beautiful...so I thank you. Love & Hugs, Judy...from my farmhouse in Northern California.. oxoxoxxo
Posted by: Judy | February 04, 2019 at 02:50 AM
Hi Lucy. Could you please send me a printed pattern for
your moorland blanket. I have great difficulty having to find it on my lap top. I have purchased the pack
Posted by: Anne Gray | October 12, 2018 at 10:21 PM
Hi I purchased a moorland pack at the yarndale festival
is there any chance of receiving a paper pattern.
I have the internet but no printer I prefer to have a paper pattern so I can refer to it.
Posted by: Anne Gray | October 01, 2018 at 11:14 AM
Lucy
I am using the Woodland pattern for my temperature blanket. I enjoyed it so much when I did the Woodland blanket. And I am using the Coastal pattern with the Cosy yarn pack.
Your patterns are so much fun. And your yarn packs are lovely.
Thank you
Bunni,
In Arizona
Posted by: Bunni | May 10, 2018 at 01:10 AM
is there a random colour pattern for the Moorland similar to that for the Woodland?
Posted by: Gillian Greenshields | February 16, 2018 at 12:58 PM
I have the wool to crochet the moorland blanket is their enough wool to crochet the moorland colours to make the cupcake pattern instead
Posted by: Joanne | January 25, 2018 at 05:29 AM
I'm sure that Ive seen a photo you've posted of this pattern, but worked in coastal colours, looking very much like a beach turning into breaking gentle waves and then the sea.....
I simply can't remember where I saw it.
Does this ring a bell, and if so could you point me in the right direction please?
Posted by: Gill | January 16, 2018 at 08:06 PM
I was excited to take delivery of the moorland wool pack yesterday. I would like to incorporate two other colours that remind me of the moors-a cream for the sheep and a grey for the stone walling.Any suggestions were these would fit best?
Posted by: DENISE HUGHES | January 06, 2018 at 05:48 PM
Hello,
I have the wool and the crochet hook poised but i can not locate the pattern for the blanket with the list of colour to be used.
Posted by: Rita Travis | June 17, 2017 at 10:34 AM
Hi
Wool Pack due to arrive tomorrow - am working a blanket for Grand-daughter ready for Uni.
What is the recommended chain for a single blanket for the Granny Stripe blanket?? Help needed, have not crochet for ages having turned my hand to Bobbin lace.
Posted by: Pat Hallam | May 23, 2017 at 06:31 PM
Hello Lucy, Your link to part 2 opens part 3 of the CAL. I'm trying to see the colour patterning for part 2. Can you email them to me? I'm very excited to try making this blanket for one of my daughters for Christmas.
Thanks so much!
Posted by: Jules | February 28, 2017 at 02:15 PM
Has anyone received an answer regarding a written pattern?
Posted by: Terrye Hubel | February 24, 2017 at 11:14 PM
hi, just about to begin this project (late to the party as always) but is there a printable written pattern for it (i've tried copying and pasting the text on here but it won't). i really don't want to be tied to the computer. tia.
Posted by: Sam | February 11, 2017 at 05:02 PM
Hia Lucy, I love your Moorland Blanket and I am hoping to be able to make it. I am currently working the sample, in order to check what size hook to use. Could you please let me know if it is possible to print your instructions, as I am finding it a little awkward to keep scrolling through them on my mobile phone. Thanks! Carol
Posted by: Carol Ingham | February 04, 2017 at 12:03 AM
Bonjour! je vous connais depuis des années, je visite régulièrement votre blog qui me réconforte et m'apporte beaucoup de plaisir. Je viens de découvrir ce CAL avec un peu de retard, mais j'ai voulu vous rejoindre. Ma laine est commandée, je serai en retard sur vous, mais peu importe! Je me réjouis à l'avance ! Merci et félicitations pour ce que vous faites. Vous m'apportez beaucoup de soleil!
Posted by: Monique Garcia | January 27, 2017 at 10:22 AM
Eagerly awaiting part 4 today. I went for a 4.5 mm hook after my test square but now we're half way there I can see it's worked up shorter than it should, so I worked in 5 extra stripes during part 3. I took ages to decide where to add and which colours, such a responsibility as I didn't want to spoil Lucy's beautiful landscape. I hope I've done it justice. Without knowing at this stage what I'll need for the border, I bought 2 packs to make a double size so hopefully I'll have enough yarn to cover these extra stripes. Some colours have used up more than others. The blanket's getting heavy now but keeps my lap warm whilst working on it during this cold snap! Such a lovely quality feel to it thanks to Lucy's choice of stitch and yarn.
MIMI - try this link to get straight to the pattern on the internet: attic24.typepad.com/weblog/neat-wave-pattern.html - that's what comes up in the URL address box.
Posted by: Jenny Turner | January 27, 2017 at 07:13 AM
Hi, I am very experienced at crochet but i am now visually impaired and having to learn crochet "in the dark". I have made a ripple patern before but am now finiding it quite difficult.
My stich count is out every row. I have to use a system of markers. a lerge marker in my beginning and last stitch and smaller markers each repeat.
My question is i used to attach my new colour at the end of the previous row and chain up. I think this is where I am wrong now. Is it ok to start with a standing stitch so that I know for instance that i have 2 dc to start i will definitely be in the right place?
If anyone has tips i would be grateful. I ca mostly do anything but I work by feel and markers. My fingers have got very sensitive to decern which stitch it is and where it is so I am lucky there. I use text to speech and commit each row to memory. Aoart from that any advice would be wonderful. Please excuse any mistakes I can't read the screen I am trying to touch type! lol very out of practice. Kind regards Lorraine
Posted by: Lo Cooper | January 21, 2017 at 12:19 PM
Have come to the conclusion that I must've just made an error and moved one stitch over on a couple of stir o especially cos everything is lining up now and I'm feeling much happier with my work 😀
Posted by: Sarah Simons-Boswell | January 17, 2017 at 08:20 AM
Hi, I am a relatively new crocheter having previously only managed granny squares. I have made a shawl which Went really well, but I am struggling to keep the stitches lined up on my blanket and am finding that every few rows I need to work a stitch into the loop at the base of the chain at the row beginning g to keep the pattern lined up. Is there something obvious that I am doing wrong? I am on my 11th stripe and really don't want to unravel it yet again, I love the pattern just wish I could keep it straight x
Posted by: Sarah Simons-Boswell | January 16, 2017 at 04:59 PM
I am concerned about having enough yarn if I go for 351 chain size. I have 2 packs of the yarn pack. Will I have enough to make larger size?
Posted by: Darlene | January 12, 2017 at 08:49 PM