Harmony Blanket

I named this blanket Harmony because the colour palette is so beautifully balanced and easy on the eye. When I was choosing the colours, I wanted something soft but not pale, pretty but not too sweet. These colours sing to me of early Summer, of peaceful riverside and leafy woodland, bluebells and dappled shade, clear summer skies and light breezes. You can read more about the whole design and making process here.

I hope you might be tempted to give this pretty blanket a go, it's a lovely project to tuck in your bag if you like to play hooky when you're out and about as the squares are very portable. Enjoy the journey......

♥ MATERIALS

Attic24 Harmony Yarn Pack – 17 x 100g balls Stylecraft Special DK in the following colours:

Plum : Raspberry : Violet : Pale Rose : Lavender : Clematis :Lime :

Meadow : Sage : Aster : Turquoise : Cloud Blue : Petrol : Storm Blue :

Parma Violet (x3)

 

You will need a 4mm hook (see information below on tension)

♥ PATTERN INFORMATION

The finished blanket measures 115cm x 175cm (approx. single bed size).

Each square is crocheted in five round squares with a sixth joining round worked in

Parma Violet.

There are 126 squares in total, arranged in a 14 x 9 format.

This pattern works best if approached in a methodical way, working one complete

vertical strip at a time (which is 14 squares), then joining them together before starting

work on the next vertical strip.

There are 14 different colour combinations in total (named A to N).

Table 1 (below) lists the colour order used to make each of the 14 squares (A to N). You will need to refer to this when making up the squares (rounds 1 to 5) which complete each vertical strip.

Table 2 (below) shows the placement of the squares (A to N), you will need to refer to this when working the joining round.

Once all 126 squares have been made and joined, a border is worked to complete the blanket.

♥ COLOUR NAMES

A little reminder that you get to know the colour names of the yarn so that you can identify them correctly when reading the information tables! The colour name is printed on the yarn ball band. Before you whip the paper labels off your yarn balls, please make sure you take a little snip of yarn and record it's name.

♥ TENSION INFORMATION

It's very important to get the tension/size right for this pattern. If your squares are coming out too large then you will probably run out of yarn, which is going to spoil your fun, so please do take the time to make up a tester square.

Start with a 4mm hook and work the first five rounds of the square. It should measure 10cm / 4 inches. If your square comes out too small, try a 4.5mm/5mm hook, and if your square comes out too big, try a 3.5mm/3mm hook.

 

♥ EXTRA GUIDANCE

I've written an additional tutorial to accompany this Harmony Blanket pattern which you can find right here on my blog. It's called "HARMONY GRANNY SQUARE" and offers a complete step-by-step tutorial with detailed pictures to help you crochet this pretty square.

♥ TABLE 1

This table gives the colour order for rounds 1-5 of each square (A to N) which make up one vertical strip. The colour order for these squares has been very carefully worked out so that every colour of yarn is used an even number of times.

Make 9 of each square A-N (126 squares in total)

	Round 1	Round 2	Round 3	Round 4	Round 5
A	Pale Rose	Storm	Turquoise	Violet	Lavender
B	Plum	Pale Rose	Lime	Sage	Cloud
C	Sage	Meadow	Violet	Storm	Pale Rose
D	Meadow	Cloud	Pale Rose	Raspberry	Plum
E	Lime	Sage	Petrol	Pale Rose	Raspberry
F	Storm	Petrol	Lavender	Plum	Aster
G	Raspberry	Clematis	Cloud	Turquoise	Petrol
H	Violet	Raspberry	Clematis	Meadow	Lime
I	Lavender	Lime	Storm	Aster	Violet
J	Clematis	Violet	Meadow	Lime	Storm
K	Aster	Turquoise	Raspberry	Clematis	Meadow
L	Cloud	Aster	Sage	Lavender	Clematis
M	Turquoise	Lavender	Plum	Petrol	Sage
N	Petrol	Plum	Aster	Cloud	Turquoise

 

♥ HARMONY GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN

TO BEGIN

Chain 4, sl st in first ch to form a ring

ROUND 1

Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 2 tr into the ring; ch 2;

*3 tr into the ring; ch 2*

Repeat between ** twice more; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round.

Fasten off. 

 

ROUND 2

Join new colour in any ch 2-space and work the following group of treble

stitches: (Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr; ch 1; 2 tr; ch 1; 2tr; ch 1)

*In next corner space work the following : (2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr; ch 1)*

Repeat between **  twice more; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round.

Fasten off.

ROUND 3

Join new colour in any large ch-1 space between groups of treble stitches;

ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr; ch 1;

1 dc in ch-1 space; ch 1; 1 dc in ch-1 space; ch 1

*In the next large ch-1 space between groups of treble stitches, work the following:

(2 tr; ch 2; 2tr; ch 1);

1dc in ch-1 space; ch 1; 1dc in ch-1 space; ch 1*

Repeat between ** twice more; in first large ch-1 space between groups of

treble stitches, work 2tr; ch 2; sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round.

Fasten off.

 

ROUND 4

Join new colour in any ch-2 corner space; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr;

2 tr in ch-1 space; 2 tr in ch-1 space; 2 tr in ch-1 space;

*In the next ch-2 corner space work the following: (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr)

2 tr in ch-1 space; 2 tr in ch-1 space; 2 tr in ch-1 space*

Repeat between ** twice more; in first ch-2 space work 2tr; ch 2;

sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round. Fasten off.

 

ROUND 5

Join new colour in any ch-2 corner space; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr;

miss 1 st; 1 tr in each of the next 9 sts;

*In the next ch-2 corner space work the following: (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr)

miss 1 st; 1 tr in each of the next 9 sts*

 Repeat between ** twice more; in first ch-2 space work 2 tr; ch 2;

sl st into 3^rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round. Fasten off and darn in all ends.

*remember there is a step-by-step photo tutorial to help you make these squares if you need extra guidance - find it HERE*

Now we come to the final round 6 which is also the joining method. I LOVE doing join-as-you-go where you combine the final round of crochet with joining the square to adjacent squares. It means you can begin to see your blanket grow quite quickly and you never have a daunting number of squares piling up waiting for attention. Join-as-you-go takes a little bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it I'm sure you'll love it.

If join-as-you-go is really not for you, you can make the sixth round of the pattern on all the squares, then work a crochet seam on the reverse to join them all together at the end. I've written a tutorial for this method which you can find here.

Right, I'll talk you through round 6 now, then I'll explain the join-as-you-go-method...

ROUND 6

Join a new colour in any chain-2 corner space.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr (above picture)

Miss the very first stitch, then work 2 tr's into the next stitch.  In the above picture my

needle is showing you where to put your hook.

Miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into the next stitch (your hook goes where my needle is)

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** 3 more times - you should have 6 groups of 2 tr's along the first side (not including the first corner).

In the chain-2 corner space, work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)

In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)

In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the fourth side)

In the first chain-2 corner space, work 2 tr's, chain 2.

Slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

So that's the Harmony Granny Square complete with all six rounds.

I'm now going to show you how to use this sixth round as a joining round.

You need to think of your blanket as a grid, made up of vertical strips. In my Harmony blanket (pictured above), there are 126 squares in total which are laid out in a 14 x 9 format. That means there are 9 vertical strips each containing 14 squares.

♥ TABLE 2

This table shows the order of the squares for the 9 vertical strips.

 

Strip 1	Strip 2	Strip 3	Strip 4	Strip 5	Strip 6	Strip 7	Strip 8	Strip 9
I	F	C	M	J	N	C	G	M
B	N	A	H	C	I	H	K	A
M	J	D	F	G	E	L	D	C
E	G	M	B	N	J	A	J	B
N	K	L	I	D	H	E	F	L
L	B	F	E	K	B	M	C	N
H	I	K	A	L	G	D	A	E
A	D	G	L	A	K	I	H	G
C	M	B	K	E	F	B	L	K
F	E	H	D	I	L	K	N	I
J	A	J	N	B	M	G	E	J
D	L	E	G	H	D	J	M	F
K	H	I	C	F	A	N	B	H
G	C	N	J	M	C	F	I	D

The squares are joined together in a methodical way, joining one complete vertical strip at a time (which is 14 squares) before joining and attaching the next vertical strip. I hope this makes sense - it's not all that easy to explain in words, but I am going to do my very best :)

♥ JOINING THE SQUARES

Throughout the rest of this tutorial, the square that is being worked with it's round six is called the JOINING square.

The squares that sit above the joining square or to the side (the ones that you will be attaching to) will be called the ADJACENT squares.

STRIP 1

:: Square 1 ::

The very first square at the top of strip 1 (Square I) should have a complete round 6 worked, following the pattern above.

:: Square 2 ::

The second square in strip 1 (Square B) will be be worked like this :

Crochet the first side, join on the second side, then crochet the third and fourth sides.

So take the second square and work the first side as follows :

Join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr.

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)

In the chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 1 (above picture)

You are now ready to start joining (yippee!)

Joins are made by slip stitching into the spaces between 2-tr groups in the adjacent square. You insert your hook into the space from the front, yarn over, then pull a loop up through the space, then through the loop on your hook.

So insert your hook into the bottom right chain-2 corner space of the adjacent square above (above picture)

Yarn over, keep an even tension and pull the loop up through the space (above picture)....

...then pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. It's just like doing a normal slip stitch.

Now work 2 tr's into the same corner space of the square you are joining to complete the corner group (shown in above picture). Time to slip stitch again - see my needle?

Insert your hook into that space, keep an even tension, yarn over and work a slip stitch.

Now in between the slip stitching, you are going to work groups of 2 tr's around the joining square just as you would normally do for round six. So miss that very first stitch and work  2 tr's into the next stitch (where my needle is)

Slip stitch into the next space of the adjacent square.

Then back to your joining square, miss one stitch and work 2 tr's in next stitch (above

picture)

Slip stitch into the next space of the adjacent square.

*Then back to your joining square, miss one stitch and work 2 tr's in next stitch.

Slip stitch into the next space of the adjacent square*

Repeat between ** three more times (above picture)

Work 2 tr's into the corner space of the joining square (above picture)

Then slip stitch into the corner space of the adjacent square, chain 1 (above picture)

Work 2 tr's into the corner space of the joining square to complete the corner group (above picture). That's your second/joining side complete (yeah!!)

Now turn your work and crochet the third side as follows :

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)

In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's) (above picture)

Now crochet the fourth side as follows :

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)

In the first chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain

of beginning chain 3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

You should now have the first two squares of your first vertical strip joined. I hope you managed ok?! As I said earlier, it does take a little practice, especially at the corners. You need to remember to keep the yarn evenly tensioned as you work your joining slip stitches - not too loose and not too tight. Ready for the third square?

:: Square 3 ::

Exactly the same as before, we are going to crochet the first side, join along the second side, then crochet the third and fourth sides.

So take the third square (square M) and work the first side as follows :

Join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr.

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)

In the chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 1.

You are now ready to join - position the joining square underneath the adjacent square as in the above picture. Here we go....

Slip stitch into corner space of adjacent square.

2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group.

*Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.

On joining square, miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times.

Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.

2 tr's into corner space of joining square.

Slip stitch into corner space of adjacent square (where my needle is in above picture), then chain 1.

Work 2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group (above picture).

Now work the third and fourth sides as follows:

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)

In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the fourth side)

In the first chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain

of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

So your first vertical strip now has three squares joined together. Is it getting easier?

You need to keep going now, joining in all the squares which make up your first vertical strip, following the sequence given in Table 2 above. There will be 14 in total (squares A-N). Remember that for each square you crochet the first side, join along the second side, then crochet the third and fourth sides.

STRIP 2

The squares in strip 2 will be joined, one by one, to the squares in strip 1.

 :: Square 1 ::

Exactly the same as before, we are going to crochet the first side, join along the second side, then crochet the third and fourth sides.

So take the joining square (square F) and work the first side as follows :

Join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr.

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)

In the chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 1.

You are now ready to join - position the joining square beside the adjacent square (Square 1 of Strip 1) as in the above picture. Here we go....

Slip stitch into the top corner space of the adjacent square (as above). Turn your work now so that you are crocheting from right to left.

2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group.

*Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.

On joining square, miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times.

Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.

2 tr's into corner space of joining square (above picture)

Slip stitch into corner space of adjacent square (where my needle is in above picture), then chain 1.

Work 2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group (above picture).

Now work the third and fourth sides as follows:

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)

In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the fourth side)

In the first chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain

of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

Although you worked your joining stitches from right to left, you have actually created a vertical join, as shown in the picture above. That's the start of strip 2 done and dusted, onto the second square....

:: Square 2 ::

For this square (square N) and all the others in strip 2, you will be joining along TWO sides. So you will crochet the first side, join the second side to the square above, join the third side to the square directly to the left, then crochet the fourth side. 

You will always crochet from right to left, so will need to turn the work as you go.

To begin, crochet the first side exactly as you have done for all the squares, as follows :

Join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr.

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)

In the chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 1.

You are now ready to join - position the joining square underneath the adjacent square as in the above picture. Here we go....

Slip stitch into bottom right corner space of adjacent square.

2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group.

*Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.

On joining square, miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times.

Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.

2 tr's into corner space of joining square (above picture).

You are now going to make 2 slip stitches to join this corner, as follows....

Slip stitch into the corner space in the adjacent square directly above (where my needle is pointing).

Now slip stitch into the top right corner space of the adjacent square directly to the left (where my needle is pointing).

Now turn your work so that you're ready to crochet/join the third side, working from right to left. Start by working 2 tr's into the corner space of the joining square (where me needle is pointing) to complete the corner group.

*Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.

On joining square, miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times.

Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.

2 tr's into corner space of joining square.

Slip stitch into corner space of adjacent square, then chain 1 (above photo).

2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group.

Now work the fourth side as follows :

Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*

Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the fourth side)

In the first chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain

of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

:: Square 3 ::

For square 3 (square J) and all other squares in this strip, repeat as for square 2.

You should now have 2 vertical strips joined, which is 28 squares in total.

For the remaining vertical strips (3 - 9 in the above table), simply follow the instructions for Strip 2. You will be surprised at how quickly your blanket grows in this way, working on 14 squares at a time and then joining them means that this project never feels overwhelming.

Once you've completed and joined all 9 strips / 126 squares, you are ready to crochet a beautiful border to frame your squares.

♥ THE BORDER

The border is worked in 8 rounds using the following 8 colours:

Cloud Blue : Lavender : Violet : Plum : Raspberry : Meadow : Sage : Storm Blue

ROUND 1 (use Cloud Blue yarn)

Start in any corner, join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same chain-2 corner space;

Work 2 tr's in each space between 2-tr groups (above picture).

When you get to the point where two square join, work 2 tr's into each of the two corner spaces, then continue to work 2 tr's into each space along the first side of the blanket (as above).

When you reach the first corner, work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's) into the chain-2 corner space (above picture)

Continue around the rest of the blanket edge, working 2 tr's into each space along, and (2 tr's, chain-2, 2 tr's) into the corner chain-2 spaces.

When you arrive back at the beginning, work 2 tr's into the very first corner space, then chain 2 (above picture). Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

ROUND 2 (use Lavender yarn)

 Start in any corner, join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space.

 Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same chain-2 corner space;

Work 2 tr's in each space between 2-tr groups (above picture).

Continue around the rest of the blanket edge, working 2 tr's into each space along, and (2 tr's, chain-2, 2 tr's) into the corner chain-2 spaces.

When you arrive back at the beginning, work 2 tr's into the very first corner space, then chain 2 (above picture). Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.

ROUND 3 (use Violet Yarn)

ROUND 4 (use Plum yarn)

ROUND 5 (use Raspberry yarn)

ROUND 6 (use Meadow yarn)

ROUND 7 (use Sage yarn)

ROUND 8 (use Storm Blue yarn)

For Rounds 3-8, follow the pattern as for Round 2.

 

♥ FINISHING

Isn't it wonderful to arrive at the finishing line with a large blanket project? I really hope you've enjoyed making the Harmony blanket as much as I have.

Your blanket will have a subtle surface texture created by the joins but it shouldn't need blocking. However, the edges and border may benefit from a very light steam using a cool iron. Please note, the iron should NOT touch the crochet – simply hold it a few cm. above the surface of the crochet and allow the steam to do the work.

Now it's time to give your blanket the snuggle test – wrap yourself up in those soft, harmonious colours and enjoy!

Now I know this is a very long tutorial, but I really hope that the tonne of pictures helps you to crack this neat join-as-you-go method. At the moment, there isn't a printable pattern available to download here on my blog, so the pattern blurb for the joining method will have to remain as part of the picture tutorial for the time being, for you to access via computer/tablet/gadget. If you have purchased the Harmony Yarn pack from my shop at Wool Warehouse, you will have a printed pattern included with your yarn.

My hope is that you will soon get the hand of the joining round and won't need a pattern or any of those gazillion pictures to get your squares all neatly joined together.

What I have managed to do though (with my dubious technical skills) is put the two tables into a simple PDF file so that you can print those out and tuck them in your crochet bag. When you are making the squares you will constantly need to refer to Table 1 for the colour order, so keep it with your yarn and hook.

{Download Harmony Blanket Tables}

Wishing you the best of hooky luck - enjoy your Harmony journey!

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

♥ USEFUL LINKS

♥ HARMONY GRANNY SQUARE 

a full picture tutorial to give you extra guidance if you need it for making the squares.

♥ HARMONY YARN PACK 

17 x 100g balls of Stylecraft Special DK, plus a full colour printed pattern included.

♥ HARMONY Ta-DAH POST 

lots of pictures showing work in progress, as well as the finished blanket.

x

♥ I really hope you enjoy having a go with this pattern. As with all my tutorials I am happy to provide them here on my blog for free, for you to use and enjoy. However, I'm hoping that if you do give this pattern a whirl then you might consider making a small donation to help support what I do here in the Attic ♥

 

 

THANK YOU, your support is wonderful and is truly appreciated

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comments

[Debbie L Stovall]

this is so beautiful. Thanks so much for pattern instructions. Am saving this site to my favorites. Will be the next one i make.

[Emma Lennon]

Can I ask if you used a particular method when selecting which squares to lay side by side or was it completely random? I'm working on a Harmony Blanket for my granny but as her bed is bigger than single I need to make it slightly wider so I'm doing some extra columns but unsure how to order them...

Thank you so much for all your wonderful posts and patterns :)

[Kim M]

Very lovely; this has a nice subtle texture as well. Beautiful work -- thanks for sharing.

[Rona Griffiths]

thank you for this beautiful pattern Lucy, I'm just about to start on the border of mine, it's for a cot blanket for my 5th granddaughter who should be here with us by this time next month and my daughter in law is over the moon with it, she said to me the other day that her sister would be fighting her for it lol!!! I always said I'd never do any more granny square blankets, but this pattern may just tempt me to do some more xxo

[Jeni ward]

The colours in my pack are differently labelled and I'm thoroughly confused. Also there was no printed instructions. Help please!

[Chloe]

Hi, lovely pattern this will be the third afghan I have made using you great yarn packs and pattern. Quick question. I have done 3 tester squares so far and they are all coming up too small. The last one I just did with a 5.0mm hook came up 9cm. Is that ok?

[Kyra]

I have made a couple of squares as a test and they are lovely to make as every round is different. I also love the colour selection it is definitely my favourite yet. I just need to find an excuse to make another blanket. Thank you for the hard work you put in and the inspiration!

[Lucy @ Attic24]

Thanksfor the heads up re the border colours its meadow that I used, but Lime is very similar so either would work. Will make the change on the tutorial so it’s consistent… thank you!
Lucyxxx

Sent from Windows Mail

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Sent:‎Saturday‎, ‎15‎ ‎August‎ ‎2015 ‎12‎:‎31
To:Lucy Attic24

A new comment from “Mary” was received on the page “Harmony Blanket” of the blog “Attic24”.

Comment:
Beautiful!!! Just finishing up Cosy and might need to make this one next.

Is round 6 of the border Lime or Meadow? The list of colors for the border says Meadow but down in the instructions indicates Lime.

Thanks for another great pattern!

Commenter name: Mary
Commenter email: Marykl2013@gmail.com
IP address: 173.18.57.246
Authentication: None

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The Typepad Team

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[Julie Rogers]

Splendorific Lucy! I too am drawn to surrounding myself with loads of wonderful colors. Your blog is a constant source of inspiration and frequently a place to go and infuse my spirit with more color. Ordering my Pack today! Many thanks from Vermont :)

[Penny Rongo]

You've done it again, Lucy. Another magnificent blanket to your credit. I am just finishing up the cottage ripple blanket and am very pleased with it. Now you tempt me with this new Harmony Blanket. I really need to make this one.
Thanks for sharing and challenging us with new patterns and fabulous colors.

[Mary]

Beautiful!!! Just finishing up Cosy and might need to make this one next.

Is round 6 of the border Lime or Meadow? The list of colors for the border says Meadow but down in the instructions indicates Lime.

Thanks for another great pattern!

[Ingeborg Groth]

The harmony granny is exceptionally pretty, Lucy! I usually don't like granny squares because of these big holes. (And the Elmer square is boring, I think 😊). But your new granny is exactly what I think a granny should be: wonderful and tempting to start another WIP immediately! Thank you so much for your generosity, Lucy. (I once donated a sum but hadn't got a response, so I hope it went to you and not to someone else.)

[Pamela Lawson]

You have done it again. Thank you Lucy for your clear instructions which are so easy to follow. You're a genius! Now I am sorry of to buy my pack. Great to see the results on Ravelry! Tank you!!!

[Dora Berenyi]

Hi Lucy. I would like to make your harmony blanket and am considering ordering the Pack but am a bit hesitant to buy acrylic yarn - does it feel acrylic or does it feel more like wool? I don't want to spend the money and then not be happy with the feel of it. I have never bought yarn I couldn't see first. I live in Australia so the exchange rate is not too good.
I will be donating to your fund as I think you are a most generous lady!
Cheers Dora

[Iggyknit]

As an easy way to remember the colour name, I tie a piece of the yarn round the paper label. Fantastic tutorial.

[Asha Srikanth]

Lucy, you are brilliant. I'll be the first to buy your book if you write one!! Thanks for your hard work and for sharing such a beautiful piece of work. It sure will be my next project. Asha x

[Karen]

Such a pleasure to meet you today Lucy along with your lovely group of creative people. I am determined to master crocheting in the round and have ordered a pack to make this beautiful blanket. Hope to see you again when we venture up from Norfolk! xxx

[Kat]

absolutely beautiful, I can't wait to get cracking. :) Thanks Lucy :)

[Lorenza]

Magnifique!

[Jean the Creative Pixie]

Gorgeous blanket. I have so many things I'd like to create and just not enough time...maybe one day I'll create my own harmony blanket.

[Cheri George]

This blanket is so beautiful, love it.