I named this blanket Harmony because the colour palette is so beautifully balanced and easy on the eye. When I was choosing the colours, I wanted something soft but not pale, pretty but not too sweet. These colours sing to me of early Summer, of peaceful riverside and leafy woodland, bluebells and dappled shade, clear summer skies and light breezes. You can read more about the whole design and making process here.
I hope you might be tempted to give this pretty blanket a go, it's a lovely project to tuck in your bag if you like to play hooky when you're out and about as the squares are very portable. Enjoy the journey......
♥ MATERIALS
Attic24 Harmony Yarn Pack – 17 x 100g balls Stylecraft Special DK in the following colours:
Plum : Raspberry : Violet : Pale Rose : Lavender : Clematis :Lime :
Meadow : Sage : Aster : Turquoise : Cloud Blue : Petrol : Storm Blue :
Parma Violet (x3)
You will need a 4mm hook (see information below on tension)
♥ PATTERN INFORMATION
The finished blanket measures 115cm x 175cm (approx. single bed size).
Each square is crocheted in five round squares with a sixth joining round worked in
Parma Violet.
There are 126 squares in total, arranged in a 14 x 9 format.
This pattern works best if approached in a methodical way, working one complete
vertical strip at a time (which is 14 squares), then joining them together before starting
work on the next vertical strip.
There are 14 different colour combinations in total (named A to N).
Table 1 (below) lists the colour order used to make each of the 14 squares (A to N). You will need to refer to this when making up the squares (rounds 1 to 5) which complete each vertical strip.
Table 2 (below) shows the placement of the squares (A to N), you will need to refer to this when working the joining round.
Once all 126 squares have been made and joined, a border is worked to complete the blanket.
♥ COLOUR NAMES
A little reminder that you get to know the colour names of the yarn so that you can identify them correctly when reading the information tables! The colour name is printed on the yarn ball band. Before you whip the paper labels off your yarn balls, please make sure you take a little snip of yarn and record it's name.
♥ TENSION INFORMATION
It's very important to get the tension/size right for this pattern. If your squares are coming out too large then you will probably run out of yarn, which is going to spoil your fun, so please do take the time to make up a tester square.
Start with a 4mm hook and work the first five rounds of the square. It should measure 10cm / 4 inches. If your square comes out too small, try a 4.5mm/5mm hook, and if your square comes out too big, try a 3.5mm/3mm hook.
♥ EXTRA GUIDANCE
I've written an additional tutorial to accompany this Harmony Blanket pattern which you can find right here on my blog. It's called "HARMONY GRANNY SQUARE" and offers a complete step-by-step tutorial with detailed pictures to help you crochet this pretty square.
♥ TABLE 1
This table gives the colour order for rounds 1-5 of each square (A to N) which make up one vertical strip. The colour order for these squares has been very carefully worked out so that every colour of yarn is used an even number of times.
Make 9 of each square A-N (126 squares in total)
|
Round 1 |
Round 2 |
Round 3 |
Round 4 |
Round 5 |
A |
Pale Rose |
Storm |
Turquoise |
Violet |
Lavender |
B |
Plum |
Pale Rose |
Lime |
Sage |
Cloud |
C |
Sage |
Meadow |
Violet |
Storm |
Pale Rose |
D |
Meadow |
Cloud |
Pale Rose |
Raspberry |
Plum |
E |
Lime |
Sage |
Petrol |
Pale Rose |
Raspberry |
F |
Storm |
Petrol |
Lavender |
Plum |
Aster |
G |
Raspberry |
Clematis |
Cloud |
Turquoise |
Petrol |
H |
Violet |
Raspberry |
Clematis |
Meadow |
Lime |
I |
Lavender |
Lime |
Storm |
Aster |
Violet |
J |
Clematis |
Violet |
Meadow |
Lime |
Storm |
K |
Aster |
Turquoise |
Raspberry |
Clematis |
Meadow |
L |
Cloud |
Aster |
Sage |
Lavender |
Clematis |
M |
Turquoise |
Lavender |
Plum |
Petrol |
Sage |
N |
Petrol |
Plum |
Aster |
Cloud |
Turquoise |
♥ HARMONY GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN
TO BEGIN
Chain 4, sl st in first ch to form a ring
ROUND 1
Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 2 tr into the ring; ch 2;
*3 tr into the ring; ch 2*
Repeat between ** twice more; sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round.
Fasten off.
ROUND 2
Join new colour in any ch 2-space and work the following group of treble
stitches: (Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr; ch 1; 2 tr; ch 1; 2tr; ch 1)
*In next corner space work the following : (2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr; ch 1; 2 tr; ch 1)*
Repeat between ** twice more; sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round.
Fasten off.
ROUND 3
Join new colour in any large ch-1 space between groups of treble stitches;
ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr; ch 1;
1 dc in ch-1 space; ch 1; 1 dc in ch-1 space; ch 1
*In the next large ch-1 space between groups of treble stitches, work the following:
(2 tr; ch 2; 2tr; ch 1);
1dc in ch-1 space; ch 1; 1dc in ch-1 space; ch 1*
Repeat between ** twice more; in first large ch-1 space between groups of
treble stitches, work 2tr; ch 2; sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round.
Fasten off.
ROUND 4
Join new colour in any ch-2 corner space; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr;
2 tr in ch-1 space; 2 tr in ch-1 space; 2 tr in ch-1 space;
*In the next ch-2 corner space work the following: (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr)
2 tr in ch-1 space; 2 tr in ch-1 space; 2 tr in ch-1 space*
Repeat between ** twice more; in first ch-2 space work 2tr; ch 2;
sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round. Fasten off.
ROUND 5
Join new colour in any ch-2 corner space; ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr;
miss 1 st; 1 tr in each of the next 9 sts;
*In the next ch-2 corner space work the following: (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr)
miss 1 st; 1 tr in each of the next 9 sts*
Repeat between ** twice more; in first ch-2 space work 2 tr; ch 2;
sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 to close round. Fasten off and darn in all ends.
*remember there is a step-by-step photo tutorial to help you make these squares if you need extra guidance - find it HERE*
Now we come to the final round 6 which is also the joining method. I LOVE doing join-as-you-go where you combine the final round of crochet with joining the square to adjacent squares. It means you can begin to see your blanket grow quite quickly and you never have a daunting number of squares piling up waiting for attention. Join-as-you-go takes a little bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it I'm sure you'll love it.
If join-as-you-go is really not for you, you can make the sixth round of the pattern on all the squares, then work a crochet seam on the reverse to join them all together at the end. I've written a tutorial for this method which you can find here.
Right, I'll talk you through round 6 now, then I'll explain the join-as-you-go-method...
ROUND 6
Join a new colour in any chain-2 corner space.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr (above picture)
Miss the very first stitch, then work 2 tr's into the next stitch. In the above picture my
needle is showing you where to put your hook.
Miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into the next stitch (your hook goes where my needle is)
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** 3 more times - you should have 6 groups of 2 tr's along the first side (not including the first corner).
In the chain-2 corner space, work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)
In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)
In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the fourth side)
In the first chain-2 corner space, work 2 tr's, chain 2.
Slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.
So that's the Harmony Granny Square complete with all six rounds.
I'm now going to show you how to use this sixth round as a joining round.
You need to think of your blanket as a grid, made up of vertical strips. In my Harmony blanket (pictured above), there are 126 squares in total which are laid out in a 14 x 9 format. That means there are 9 vertical strips each containing 14 squares.
♥ TABLE 2
This table shows the order of the squares for the 9 vertical strips.
Strip 1 |
Strip 2 |
Strip 3 |
Strip 4 |
Strip 5 |
Strip 6 |
Strip 7 |
Strip 8 |
Strip 9 |
I |
F |
C |
M |
J |
N |
C |
G |
M |
B |
N |
A |
H |
C |
I |
H |
K |
A |
M |
J |
D |
F |
G |
E |
L |
D |
C |
E |
G |
M |
B |
N |
J |
A |
J |
B |
N |
K |
L |
I |
D |
H |
E |
F |
L |
L |
B |
F |
E |
K |
B |
M |
C |
N |
H |
I |
K |
A |
L |
G |
D |
A |
E |
A |
D |
G |
L |
A |
K |
I |
H |
G |
C |
M |
B |
K |
E |
F |
B |
L |
K |
F |
E |
H |
D |
I |
L |
K |
N |
I |
J |
A |
J |
N |
B |
M |
G |
E |
J |
D |
L |
E |
G |
H |
D |
J |
M |
F |
K |
H |
I |
C |
F |
A |
N |
B |
H |
G |
C |
N |
J |
M |
C |
F |
I |
D |
The squares are joined together in a methodical way, joining one complete vertical strip at a time (which is 14 squares) before joining and attaching the next vertical strip. I hope this makes sense - it's not all that easy to explain in words, but I am going to do my very best :)
♥ JOINING THE SQUARES
Throughout the rest of this tutorial, the square that is being worked with it's round six is called the JOINING square.
The squares that sit above the joining square or to the side (the ones that you will be attaching to) will be called the ADJACENT squares.
STRIP 1
:: Square 1 ::
The very first square at the top of strip 1 (Square I) should have a complete round 6 worked, following the pattern above.
:: Square 2 ::
The second square in strip 1 (Square B) will be be worked like this :
Crochet the first side, join on the second side, then crochet the third and fourth sides.
So take the second square and work the first side as follows :
Join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr.
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)
In the chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 1 (above picture)
You are now ready to start joining (yippee!)
Joins are made by slip stitching into the spaces between 2-tr groups in the adjacent square. You insert your hook into the space from the front, yarn over, then pull a loop up through the space, then through the loop on your hook.
So insert your hook into the bottom right chain-2 corner space of the adjacent square above (above picture)
Yarn over, keep an even tension and pull the loop up through the space (above picture)....
...then pull the yarn through the loop on your hook. It's just like doing a normal slip stitch.
Now work 2 tr's into the same corner space of the square you are joining to complete the corner group (shown in above picture). Time to slip stitch again - see my needle?
Insert your hook into that space, keep an even tension, yarn over and work a slip stitch.
Now in between the slip stitching, you are going to work groups of 2 tr's around the joining square just as you would normally do for round six. So miss that very first stitch and work 2 tr's into the next stitch (where my needle is)
Slip stitch into the next space of the adjacent square.
Then back to your joining square, miss one stitch and work 2 tr's in next stitch (above
picture)
Slip stitch into the next space of the adjacent square.
*Then back to your joining square, miss one stitch and work 2 tr's in next stitch.
Slip stitch into the next space of the adjacent square*
Repeat between ** three more times (above picture)
Work 2 tr's into the corner space of the joining square (above picture)
Then slip stitch into the corner space of the adjacent square, chain 1 (above picture)
Work 2 tr's into the corner space of the joining square to complete the corner group (above picture). That's your second/joining side complete (yeah!!)
Now turn your work and crochet the third side as follows :
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)
In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's) (above picture)
Now crochet the fourth side as follows :
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)
In the first chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain
of beginning chain 3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.
You should now have the first two squares of your first vertical strip joined. I hope you managed ok?! As I said earlier, it does take a little practice, especially at the corners. You need to remember to keep the yarn evenly tensioned as you work your joining slip stitches - not too loose and not too tight. Ready for the third square?
:: Square 3 ::
Exactly the same as before, we are going to crochet the first side, join along the second side, then crochet the third and fourth sides.
So take the third square (square M) and work the first side as follows :
Join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr.
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)
In the chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 1.
You are now ready to join - position the joining square underneath the adjacent square as in the above picture. Here we go....
Slip stitch into corner space of adjacent square.
2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group.
*Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.
On joining square, miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times.
Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.
2 tr's into corner space of joining square.
Slip stitch into corner space of adjacent square (where my needle is in above picture), then chain 1.
Work 2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group (above picture).
Now work the third and fourth sides as follows:
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)
In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the fourth side)
In the first chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain
of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.
So your first vertical strip now has three squares joined together. Is it getting easier?
You need to keep going now, joining in all the squares which make up your first vertical strip, following the sequence given in Table 2 above. There will be 14 in total (squares A-N). Remember that for each square you crochet the first side, join along the second side, then crochet the third and fourth sides.
STRIP 2
The squares in strip 2 will be joined, one by one, to the squares in strip 1.
:: Square 1 ::
Exactly the same as before, we are going to crochet the first side, join along the second side, then crochet the third and fourth sides.
So take the joining square (square F) and work the first side as follows :
Join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr.
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)
In the chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 1.
You are now ready to join - position the joining square beside the adjacent square (Square 1 of Strip 1) as in the above picture. Here we go....
Slip stitch into the top corner space of the adjacent square (as above). Turn your work now so that you are crocheting from right to left.
2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group.
*Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.
On joining square, miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times.
Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.
2 tr's into corner space of joining square (above picture)
Slip stitch into corner space of adjacent square (where my needle is in above picture), then chain 1.
Work 2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group (above picture).
Now work the third and fourth sides as follows:
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the third side)
In the chain-2 corner space work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's)
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the fourth side)
In the first chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain
of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.
Although you worked your joining stitches from right to left, you have actually created a vertical join, as shown in the picture above. That's the start of strip 2 done and dusted, onto the second square....
:: Square 2 ::
For this square (square N) and all the others in strip 2, you will be joining along TWO sides. So you will crochet the first side, join the second side to the square above, join the third side to the square directly to the left, then crochet the fourth side.
You will always crochet from right to left, so will need to turn the work as you go.
To begin, crochet the first side exactly as you have done for all the squares, as follows :
Join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr.
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the second side)
In the chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 1.
You are now ready to join - position the joining square underneath the adjacent square as in the above picture. Here we go....
Slip stitch into bottom right corner space of adjacent square.
2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group.
*Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.
On joining square, miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times.
Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.
2 tr's into corner space of joining square (above picture).
You are now going to make 2 slip stitches to join this corner, as follows....
Slip stitch into the corner space in the adjacent square directly above (where my needle is pointing).
Now slip stitch into the top right corner space of the adjacent square directly to the left (where my needle is pointing).
Now turn your work so that you're ready to crochet/join the third side, working from right to left. Start by working 2 tr's into the corner space of the joining square (where me needle is pointing) to complete the corner group.
*Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.
On joining square, miss one stitch, then work 2 tr's into next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times.
Slip stitch into next space of adjacent square.
2 tr's into corner space of joining square.
Slip stitch into corner space of adjacent square, then chain 1 (above photo).
2 tr's into corner space of joining square to complete the corner group.
Now work the fourth side as follows :
Miss the next stitch, *work 2 tr's in next stitch, miss the next stitch*
Repeat between ** five more times (6 tr-groups in total along the fourth side)
In the first chain-2 corner space work 2 tr's, chain 2, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain
of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.
:: Square 3 ::
For square 3 (square J) and all other squares in this strip, repeat as for square 2.
You should now have 2 vertical strips joined, which is 28 squares in total.
For the remaining vertical strips (3 - 9 in the above table), simply follow the instructions for Strip 2. You will be surprised at how quickly your blanket grows in this way, working on 14 squares at a time and then joining them means that this project never feels overwhelming.
Once you've completed and joined all 9 strips / 126 squares, you are ready to crochet a beautiful border to frame your squares.
♥ THE BORDER
The border is worked in 8 rounds using the following 8 colours:
Cloud Blue : Lavender : Violet : Plum : Raspberry : Meadow : Sage : Storm Blue
ROUND 1 (use Cloud Blue yarn)
Start in any corner, join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same chain-2 corner space;
Work 2 tr's in each space between 2-tr groups (above picture).
When you get to the point where two square join, work 2 tr's into each of the two corner spaces, then continue to work 2 tr's into each space along the first side of the blanket (as above).
When you reach the first corner, work (2 tr's, chain 2, 2 tr's) into the chain-2 corner space (above picture)
Continue around the rest of the blanket edge, working 2 tr's into each space along, and (2 tr's, chain-2, 2 tr's) into the corner chain-2 spaces.
When you arrive back at the beginning, work 2 tr's into the very first corner space, then chain 2 (above picture). Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.
ROUND 2 (use Lavender yarn)
Start in any corner, join the yarn in any chain-2 corner space.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same chain-2 corner space;
Work 2 tr's in each space between 2-tr groups (above picture).
Continue around the rest of the blanket edge, working 2 tr's into each space along, and (2 tr's, chain-2, 2 tr's) into the corner chain-2 spaces.
When you arrive back at the beginning, work 2 tr's into the very first corner space, then chain 2 (above picture). Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round. Fasten off and darn in ends.
ROUND 3 (use Violet Yarn)
ROUND 4 (use Plum yarn)
ROUND 5 (use Raspberry yarn)
ROUND 6 (use Meadow yarn)
ROUND 7 (use Sage yarn)
ROUND 8 (use Storm Blue yarn)
For Rounds 3-8, follow the pattern as for Round 2.
♥ FINISHING
Isn't it wonderful to arrive at the finishing line with a large blanket project? I really hope you've enjoyed making the Harmony blanket as much as I have.
Your blanket will have a subtle surface texture created by the joins but it shouldn't need blocking. However, the edges and border may benefit from a very light steam using a cool iron. Please note, the iron should NOT touch the crochet – simply hold it a few cm. above the surface of the crochet and allow the steam to do the work.
Now it's time to give your blanket the snuggle test – wrap yourself up in those soft, harmonious colours and enjoy!
Now I know this is a very long tutorial, but I really hope that the tonne of pictures helps you to crack this neat join-as-you-go method. At the moment, there isn't a printable pattern available to download here on my blog, so the pattern blurb for the joining method will have to remain as part of the picture tutorial for the time being, for you to access via computer/tablet/gadget. If you have purchased the Harmony Yarn pack from my shop at Wool Warehouse, you will have a printed pattern included with your yarn.
My hope is that you will soon get the hand of the joining round and won't need a pattern or any of those gazillion pictures to get your squares all neatly joined together.
What I have managed to do though (with my dubious technical skills) is put the two tables into a simple PDF file so that you can print those out and tuck them in your crochet bag. When you are making the squares you will constantly need to refer to Table 1 for the colour order, so keep it with your yarn and hook.
{Download Harmony Blanket Tables}
Wishing you the best of hooky luck - enjoy your Harmony journey!
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♥ USEFUL LINKS
a full picture tutorial to give you extra guidance if you need it for making the squares.
17 x 100g balls of Stylecraft Special DK, plus a full colour printed pattern included.
lots of pictures showing work in progress, as well as the finished blanket.
x
♥ I really hope you enjoy having a go with this pattern. As with all my tutorials I am happy to provide them here on my blog for free, for you to use and enjoy. However, I'm hoping that if you do give this pattern a whirl then you might consider making a small donation to help support what I do here in the Attic ♥
THANK YOU, your support is wonderful and is truly appreciated
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I am looking and reading through the pattern as the squares remind me very much of my grandmother's. I am bit confused and want to check if it's in US terms or UK terms? Before I print and start one. I want to be sure I am reading in the correct terms.
Posted by: Grace Peterman | July 23, 2024 at 03:43 PM
Does anyone have a colour pattern to do a Harmony Stripes blanket. TIA
Posted by: Jo Carnachan | September 18, 2023 at 04:01 PM
Hi Lucy. I've almost finished joining the squares in a pram sized version of your Harmony granny square blanket. My first time at "join as you go". At first I thought I needed a third hand, but soon got the hang of it. Thankyou for your very detailed tutorial. I'm a tactile learner and really appreciate that level of detail and lots of photos. Love ya work Lucy ❤️
Posted by: Cheryl Harmon | May 06, 2023 at 11:18 PM
Would it be possible for you to suggest how I can make this blanket 150 cms wide?
Posted by: Kiran Sethi | May 29, 2021 at 11:42 AM
Hi, I relearnt to crochet in the first lockdown, and I finished the Harmony blanket last night (23rd Feb 21). This is my first ever blanket, and I loved it! Onto the Cosy Stripe now!
Posted by: Samantha Sweetlove | February 24, 2021 at 10:29 AM
I've just completed my second Harmony Blanket, this time using the Woodland theme colour pack. So pleased with the end result. Once again, it has been a pleasure to use your pattern and a small donation is on its way to you Lucy as a token of my appreciation.
Posted by: Natasha Cole | September 02, 2020 at 09:45 AM
Thank you for sharing this lovely pattern. I really enjoyed making it up and found the joining information very useful for future reference. With all this spare time on my hands due to the lockdown, I managed to complete it in 3 weeks. Usually blankets take me 3 months! I have made a small donation in gratitude.
Posted by: Natasha Cole | April 29, 2020 at 02:49 PM
Hi Lucy, I wonder if you could tell me if your harmony blanket pattern uses all 17 balls of yarn in full? I have some of these colours in my stash but not necessarily full balls...some between around 50g and 90g...will I manage with any of these or will I need to buy all new balls? Many thanks, Helen
Posted by: Helen | March 29, 2020 at 12:10 AM
need contact phone no to reach you about a order
Posted by: shirin nathani | September 04, 2019 at 06:36 PM
Please can I ask a question??
I have just begun crocheting this harmony blanket. My problem is that the squares do not lie flat (I’m using the same make of yarn in the different colours). I stupidly tried steaming them, but this has totally flattened them - and I don’t like the look of the stitches and squares that way at all. Am I doing something wrong ? Do I just ignore the non-flatness? I would appreciate any helpful advice, thank you.?
Also do you keep one side as the right side, or reverse the work? I always thought reversing it kept it s better square, but this isn’t Mentioned. Thanks for your help.
Posted by: Jackie Adams | February 15, 2019 at 11:04 AM
Hello Lucy
I would like to make the Harmony Blanket in the summer colours. Which pack do I purchase for that?
Posted by: Christine Battersby | December 05, 2018 at 12:56 PM
Hi Lucy
Just starting and getting my ducks in a row over here in USA. TWO THINGS : I was checking out the chart for square placement and noticed that strip1is reverse of 8 and strip 2 is reverse of 7 and 3 is the reverse of 6
However 4 and 5 are not exact reverses The H square and F square are not reversed. I am goi g to switch them on my blanket but thought you might want to know. Or maybe there’s a reason for it that I can’t figure out
Also what process do you mean when you suggest “darning” in the ends?
Thanks so much for this beautiful and super well organized pattern
Posted by: Karen Gallup | October 19, 2018 at 10:13 PM
Hi, I was just wondering. Is there enough wool in this pack to do the pattern twice over to make it for a double bed? Thank you x love love the pattern.
Posted by: Chloe | May 26, 2018 at 02:35 PM
Hello. I'm making your blanket but the squares of the leaves of the patterns do not correspond to those in the photo, help.
Posted by: Nuria | March 21, 2018 at 10:15 PM
Hi Lucy
Is there a diagrammatic pattern for the Harmony Blanket, never knew crochet could be such fun Thanks
Posted by: Jacky | January 21, 2018 at 10:58 PM
Lucy, I found your link through Pinterest and wanted to thank you for your detailed instructions and wonderful pictures! I'm a beginner and this was the first afghan ive ever made thanks to your instruction! Thank you so much!
Posted by: Erica | September 02, 2017 at 08:15 PM
Hy,Lucy, it,s a wonderfool work.Thank you for your clear instructions. My eyes are resting on your photos all the time. Pretty colours and clear instructions. Thank you!
Best regards Mojca
Posted by: Mojca Srečnik | August 25, 2017 at 07:50 AM
I just ordered this pack from wool warehouse - I'm excited to start my 2nd Attic24 pattern. I'm a little nervous about all the fiddly ends but I will darn as I go so it won't seem so overwhelming! I'm in the U.S. and I look forward to your lovely blog. Your area of the world is on my bucket list to see someday - you live in such a lovely fairy tale type country. Just like your crochet it's so beautiful!
Posted by: Sara R | July 31, 2017 at 02:50 PM
Love the joining as you go method, the ridges really add some depth to the blanket. Congratulations Lucy, well done.
Posted by: winifred waite | July 30, 2017 at 12:47 PM
Hi Lucy, I am making your beautifulHarmony blanket and I have this problem where my squares keep cupping .I am using a 3mm crochet hook to get the 4 inch square, as I crochet rather loosely. It seems the only way I can get my squares to measure 4 inches is to add more stitches as I am crocheting. Hoping you can help me.
Posted by: Barbara Evans | July 22, 2017 at 03:48 AM
Hi ..I have received the wool for the above..but i didn't get the patern to go with it ..I would really appreciate it if you could send it to me please to the same address as wool thank you ..love the wonderful colours
Posted by: Jeanette jarvis | June 29, 2017 at 12:51 PM
Help can't get joining strip 2 my work isn't very neat when I gettothe corners
Posted by: Sheila | February 27, 2017 at 04:11 PM
I only have the colour strips for 5 pattern asks for 9 could I have it sent to me, but I may not have enough wool for the 9 I have 15 balls, love your site margaret
Posted by: margaret | January 29, 2017 at 10:58 AM
Hi Lucy
I absolutely love your yarn packs and patterns and currently have both the Cosy and the Cottage on hooks as WIPS.
I love the colours in the Harmony blanket but would like to make it as a stripe. Have you ever done a colour guide for a stripe using these colours?
Thanks
Posted by: Helun Ford | November 07, 2016 at 08:45 PM
Could I have some help please? I've made all the squares fine but I'm left handed abd can't work out how to make the join-as-you-go method left hand friendly as I can't seem to "flip it over". Any know how to use this method left handed?
Posted by: emilia de Luca | August 16, 2016 at 08:37 PM