This project was designed in collaboration with Stylecraft Yarns and is my contribution to the "Blogstars Garden Party" blog tour 2022. You can read more about it on my blog where I share lots more photos and give details of how to find the other designers who are taking part.
STYLECRAFT GARDEN PARTY BLOG POST
These crochet tin cosies were designed to cover a standard 400g tin (baked beans, tinned tomatoes etc) and will add a little bit of summer prettiness to your garden table. Use them to display cut flowers, pot up some fragrant herbs (I put mint in mine) or to hold napkins, cutlery or straws.
MATERIALS
I'm using six shades of Stylecraft Naturals Cotton DK :
Bone, Peppermint, Artichoke, Citron, Coral, Papaya
You will also need a small quantity of black yarn or embroidery thread for stitching the Flower Lady’s face.
HOOK SIZE
3.5mm or 4mm hook, depending on your personal crochet tension. Your crochet fabric should be reasonably tight without too much stretch.
If you're in the UK then of course you will be very familiar with our standard 400g tins - baked beans, tinned tomatoes etc. I'm hoping that elsewhere in the word you have similar sized tins that you can recycle?! I thought it might be helpful to give you the dimensions too :
Height : 11 cm
Diameter across : 7.5 cm
Circumference : 23.5 cm
PATTERN INFO
Cosies are worked in the round so there is no stitched seam, and each of the three tins follow a similar method of construction.
I'm writing my patterns using UK crochet terms as follows :
sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
htr [half treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
I'm going to include a LOT of photos in this tutorial to help beginners with this project - if you'd like a traditional simple pattern to download/print, click on the following link >>
DOWNLOAD SUMMERTIME TIN PATTERN
LACE TRIM TIN
Use Peppermint yarn
NOTE : when you make your initial starting slip knot, make sure to leave a tail end long enough for stitching - around 20cm should be enough.
Chain 43 (this must be a multiple of 6, plus an extra 1);
Round 1 :
Starting in 3rd chain from hook, work 1 htr in each chain to the end. Do not fasten off.
You should have 42 stitches (remember this includes the top of the chain at the start).
Its important that this first stitch count is a multiple of 6 so that the lace pattern will work.
Have a quick measure of your first row- you should be aiming for approx 23cm.
At this point, you can adjust your hook size and give it another go if your row is coming out too long or short.
Before we crochet the next round, we're going to join the two ends of crochet to form a continuous circle. You'll need to find the top of the chain at the start of Round 1, as shown by my needle above.
Bend your crochet round in a circle (your working stitch/hook will be on your right so that the right side of the work is facing outwards). Take care that it doesn't twist.
Insert your hook into the top of the turning chain at the start of the round and work a slip stitch to join (as shown above)
At this point, it's a good idea to check that your crochet fits snuggly around your tin - we don't want a baggy affair!
If you're happy with the tension/size/fit, then on we go with the next round.
Round 2 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); work 1 htr in the next stitch (as shown by my needle above);
Work 1 htr in each stitch around;
When you get back to where you started, insert your hook into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 and work a slip stitch to join; Fasten off. [42 stitches]
Now we can use the starting tail end to stitch up the gap in Round 1. Thread onto a darning needle and make a few neat stitches to close up that gap (as shown above).
↑↑ This is what your first stripe should look like after two rounds, with a nice, snug fit around your tin.
Round 3 : Use Artichoke yarn
Insert hook 4 or 5 stitches to the right of your fastening off join (as shown above) and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); work 1 htr in each stitch around.
NOTE : Make sure that when you crochet over the slip stitch join you made in round 2 that you don't add in an extra stitch by accident. The top of the starting chain can really tempt you to stick your hook in - DON'T do it, it's not a stitch!! Pass on by and locate the next true stitch (as shown by my needle above)
There you go, that pesky join is safely crocheted over with no extra stitches added and it looks lovely and neat. Carry on!
Round 4 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); work 1 htr in each stitch around.
When you get back to where you started, slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off. [42 stitches]
Round 5 : Use Citron yarn
This time when you begin, insert your hook 4 or 5 stitches to the left of your fastening off join in the previous round, and pull through a loop of the new colour.
NOTE : by alternating where you start each colour change (sometimes to the right, sometimes to the left), you will avoid an obvious seam forming where you join each round. It should also help prevent any naughty additional stitches creeping in at the start/end of each round - make sure you don't create an extra stitch in the top of that starting chain!
Ok, on with Round 5 as follows :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); 1 htr in each stitch around; slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Do not fasten off. [42 stitches]
Round 6 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); 1 htr in each stitch around; slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round. Fasten off. [42 stitches]
ROUNDS 5 & 6 form the basic pattern repeat.
Round 7 : Use Coral yarn
Begin 4 or 5 stitches to the right of the join and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Repeat Round 5.
Round 8 :
Repeat Round 6.
Round 9 : Use Papaya yarn
Begin 4 or 5 stitches to the left of the join and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Repeat Round 5.
Round 10 :
Repeat Round 6.
Round 1 : Use Peppermint yarn
Begin 4 or 5 stitches to the left of the join and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Repeat Round 5.
Rounds 12, 13 and 14 :
Continue with Peppermint yarn and repeat Round 6.
Round 15 : Use Bone yarn
Begin 4 or 5 stitches to the right of the join and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Repeat Round 5.
Round 16 :
Repeat Round 5 (do not fasten off)
The next 3 rounds form the lace trim. Flip your crochet over so that when you look at your working loop and hook, the wrong/inside of the crochet is facing you. You'll be working in the opposite direction to all previous rows.
Round 17 :
Chain 1 (doesn't count as a stitch); 1 dc in each stitch around;
Slip stitch into beginning dc to close round; do not fasten off. [42 stitches]
Round 18 :
Chain 1 (counts as 1 dc); skip the next two stitches;
Work 7 tr into the next stitch to form a shell; skip the next 2 stitches;
1 dc in next stitch (as shown by my needle above)
Skip the next 2 stitches; 7 tr in next stitch; skip the next 2 stitches; 1 dc in next stitch;
Skip the next 2 stitches; 7 tr in next stitch; skip the next 2 stitches;
*1 dc in next stitch; skip the next 2 stitches; 7 tr in next stitch; skip the next 2 stitches;
Repeat from * until you get back to where you started.
You should have 7 shells.
To close the round, slip stitch into the beginning chain-1 (as shown by my needle above); do not fasten off.
Round 19 :
Slip stitch into the next tr;
*Chain 4; skip next stitch; slip stitch in next tr to form a little chain loop;
Repeat from * twice more so that you have three little chain loops.
**Skip over the next dc stitch;
Slip stitch into the next tr;
*Chain 4; skip next stitch; slip stitch in next tr to form a little chain loop;
Repeat from * twice more so that you have three little chain loops, as shown above.
Repeat from ** until you've made three chain loops on each of the seven shells and arrived back to where you started.
To close the round, slip stitch into 1st chain of the beginning chain-4; Fasten off. [21 chain loops]
And that's it, your Lace Trim tin cosy is all finished!
Cotton yarn responds really well to a little spa-steam treatment, so you may wish to use an iron to puff some steam onto your lacy chain loops and use your fingers to open them out a little. Please take care with the steam and your precious fingers!
Now all you need to do is gently fold the lacey edge over so that it sits on top of the Peppermint stripe....
....ta-dah!!
Now lets look at the next design, shall we?
FLORA TIN
The Flora Tin follows the same pattern as for the Lace Trim tin for the first 14 rounds.
Here is the pattern :
FLORA TIN
Ch 43 (must be a multiple of 3, plus 1). Remember to leave a starting tail end long enough for stitching.
Round 1 : Use colour Peppermint
Beginning in 3rd chain from hook, work 1 htr in each chain; slip stitch in top of turning chain to join the crochet into the round, taking care not to twist. [42 stitches]
Round 2 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); 1 htr in each stitch around; slip stitch in 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close round; fasten off. [42 stitches]
Check your tension/fit – make sure your crochet fits nice and snugly around your tin. If the fit is good, use the starting tail end to neatly stitch up the gap where you started and ended round 1.
Round 3 : Use colour Bone
Insert hook into stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour
NOTE : vary the place that you start and end each colour change to prevent an obvious seam forming. Keep to the back of the work, but move four or five stitches left or right each time.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); 1 htr in each stitch around; slip stitch in 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close round; do not fasten off. [42 sts]
Round 4 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); 1 htr in each stitch around; slip stitch in 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close round; fasten off. [42 sts]
Round 5 and 6 : Use colour Peppermint
Repeat rounds 3 and 4
Round 7 and 8 : Use colour Bone
Repeat rounds 3 and 4
Rounds 9 and 10 : Use colour Peppermint
Repeat rounds 3 and 4
Rounds 11 and 12 : Use colour Bone
Repeat rounds 3 and 4
Rounds 13 and 14 : Use colour Peppermint
Repeat rounds 3 and 4
Round 15 : Use colour Bone
Repeat round 3
Round 16 : (scallop edging)
Chain 1 (doesn't count as stitch);
Work (1 htr; 1 tr) in next stitch; (as shown above)
Work (1 tr; 1 htr) in next stitch; (as shown above)
Slip stitch in next stitch.
That's your first scallop made.
(1 htr; 1 tr) in next stitch; (1 tr; 1 htr) in next stitch;
*slip stitch in next stitch;
(1 htr; 1 tr) in next stitch; (1 tr; 1 htr) in next stitch;
Repeat from * 11 more times until you get back to where you started;
Slip stitch into beginning chain-1 to close round. Fasten off. [14 scallops]
FLOWERS AND LEAVES
FLORA FLOWER (make 1)
Round 1 : Use Colour Citron
Chain 4; slip stitch into 1st chain to form a ring;
Chain 1 (counts as 1 dc); 7 dc into ring; slip stitch into beginning chain-1 to close round; fasten off. [8 sts]
Round 2 : Use Colour Coral
Join new colour in first stitch; chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr into same stitch; chain 1; *
2tr into next stitch; chain 1;
Repeat from * 6 more times;
Slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close round; fasten off. [8 2-tr groups, 8 ch-1 spaces]
Round 3 : Use colour Papaya
Join new colour in first chain-1 space;
Work (chain 2; 3 tr; chain 2; slip stitch) in same chain-2 space as joining; chain 1;
* In the next chain-1 space, work the following : (slip stitch; chain 2; 3 tr; chain 2; slip stitch); chain 1;
Repeat from * 6 more times; slip stitch into 1st chain of beginning chain-2 to close round; fasten off, leaving a long tail end for stitching. [8 petals, and 8 chain-1 spaces]
SMALL FLOWER (make 2)
Round 1 : Use colour Citron
Chain 4; slip stitch into 1st chain to form a ring;
Chain 1 (counts as 1 dc); 9 dc into the ring; slip stitch into 1st chain of beginning chain-2 to close round; fasten off [10 sts]
Round 2 : Use colour Coral
Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 1; 1 tr in same stitch; work (1 tr; chain 1; slip stitch) in next stitch;
*Work (slip stitch; chain 1; 1 tr) in next stitch; work (1 tr; chain 1; slip stitch) in next stitch;
Repeat from *3 more times; slip stitch into beginning chain-1 to close round;
Fasten off, leaving a long tail end for stitching. [5 petals]
LEAF (make 2)
1st side : Use colour Artichoke
Chain 6; beginning in 2nd chain from hook, work the following stitches along the first side :
1 dc; 1 tr; 2 tr; 1 tr; 1dc;
Chain 2; slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook (picot point)
2nd side : work the following stitches into the single loops of the foundation chain :
1 dc; 1 tr; 2 tr; 1 tr; 1dc;
Slip stitch into the beginning turning chain to close; fasten off, leaving a long tail end for stitching.
STITCHING
It’s a good idea to pin each motif in place before you begin stitching, using the photo for guidance.
Place the large Flora flower front and centre.
Place the two leaves either side at an angle, tucking them just under the bottom petals of the Flora flower so that that sit on the 3rd and 4th stripe (as shown above).
Remove the Flora flower for now, so that you can stitch the leaves in place first.
Once the leaves are stitched securely, replace the Flora Flower over the top and pin in place. Use the tail end to stitch the petals in place.
Now place the small flowers on either side of the Flora flower and pin in place. Use the tail ends to stitch the flowers in place.
And there it is, your Flora Summertime tin is done!
I've saved the best till last, as this is my favourite tin of the three.....
FLOWER LADY TIN
Rounds 1-7 follow the same pattern as for the other two tins. Chain 43 to begin, just as you did before.
Here is the colour info for the first 7 rounds :
Starting chain, Rounds 1 & 2 : Use Papaya yarn
Rounds 3 & 4 : use Citron yarn
Rounds 5 and 6 : use Artichoke yarn
Round 7 : Use Peppermint yarn (do not fasten off).
Round 8 : (mini scallops)
NOTE : for this round you will work in the front loops only, leaving the back loops free for the next round.
*Work (1 dc; 1 htr) in next stitch;
Work (1 htr: 1 dc) in next stitch; slip stitch in next stitch;
Repeat from * all the way round; fasten off. [14 mini scallops]
Round 9 : Use Bone yarn
NOTE : bend the mini scallops forward so that you can see the back loops that were left free in round 8. You will work round 9 out of these single back loops.
Insert hook into back loop and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 1 (doesn’t count as stitch); 1 dc in same stitch;
1 dc in each stitch around; do not fasten off. [42 stitches].
Rounds 11 – 20 :
Continue to work 1 dc in each stitch around, working as a continuous spiral.
Place a marker in the first stitch of each round as you go, moving the marker up each time.
When you have completed Round 20, slip stitch into next stitch and fasten off.
Round 21 : Use Artichoke yarn
Insert hook a few stitches to the right of the slip stitch join and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); 1 htr in each stitch around; slip stitch in 2nd chain of beginning chain-2 to close round; do not fasten off. [42 sts]
Round 22 :
Chain 2 (counts as 1 htr); 1 htr in each stitch around;
I'm going to show you how to create an invisible fasten off so that the top edge of your tin is super neat.
Cut your yarn leaving enough of a tail end for darning in. Using your hook, pull up the working loop so that it grows big (as in above photo), keep pulling it so that the tail end passes right through the loop. Take care not to pull the loop tight - you want the loop to stay visible.
You can see in the above photo how the tail end passed through the loop of the final stitch, and that the loop is still intact and visible. Thread the end onto a darning needle.
Pass your needle through the top of the beginning chain-2, from front to back as shown above and draw the tail end through.
Now pass your needle down through the chain loop of the last stitch (the one that you deliberately kept intact) and draw the tail end through. Don't pull too tight - you are using your tail end to form a false stitch. You can see it forming in the above photo.
↑↑ See? Creating that false stitch means that the chain loops all sit nicely along the top edge with no obvious join. Darn in the end as you usually would on the reverse of the crochet.
This is what your cosy should look like ↑↑.
Now for our Flower Lady to come to life.....
CHEEKS (Make 2)
Use Papaya yarn
Chain 4; slip stitch into 1st chain to form a ring;
Chain 1 (counts as 1 dc); 9 dc into the ring; slip stitch into beginning chain-1 to close round.
Make an invisible fasten off, just as we did for the top edge of the cosy.
Cut your yarn leaving enough of a tail end for darning in. Using your hook, pull up the working loop so that it grows big (as in above photo), keep pulling it so that the tail end passes right through the loop. Take care not to pull the loop tight - you want the loop to stay visible.
Pass your needle through the top of the beginning chain-2, from front to back as shown above and draw the tail end through.
Now pass your needle down through the chain loop of the last stitch (the one that you deliberately kept intact) and draw the tail end through. Don't pull too tight - you are using your tail end to form a false stitch.
You should have a nice neat circle with no bumpy fastening off knots.
Two rosy cheeks!
SMALL FLOWER (Make 2)
NOTE : this pattern is the same as for the Flora tin.
Flower 1 - use Citron yarn for round 1, and Coral yarn for round 2.
Flower 2 - use Coral yarn for round 1, and Citron yarn for round 2.
STITCHING THE FACE
Use the natural holes between dc stitches as a guide for your needle.
Use a separate length of black yarn or embroidery thread for each feature so that you don't carry any floats on the back.
TOP TIP : don't try and secure the black yarn before you start - it's much better to leave a long dangling tail end in the beginning (keep it right out of the way of your embroidery) and darn it in at the end.
MOUTH
Find the front centre of the crochet (all fastening off will be at the back). Insert your needle in between rounds 12 and 13, bringing it up to the surface where you want to begin stitching the right hand curve of the mouth.
↑↑Using the holes between dc stitches to guide you, make a downward slanting stitch for the right hand curve of the mouth.
↑↑Make 3 straight stitches stitches to form the bottom line of the mouth.
↑↑ make an upward slanting stitch for the left hand curve of the mouth.
Pull the starting and ending tail ends through to the reverse for darning in at the end.
EYES
The eyes are embroidered in a similar way to the mouth.
Make two straight stitches to form the bottom of each eye (between rounds 17 and 18), with a slanted stitch upwards at each end.
Add five eyelashes underneath the eye, using the photo to help with placement.
Take both tail ends through to the reverse for darning in at the end.
Work the second eye in the same way, making sure you count the holes and line it up evenly with the first eye.
Take the tail ends through to the reverse for darning in.
The above photo made me laugh!! This is what the back of my embroidery looked like with the six tail ends flopping about!
Darn the tail ends carefully under the embroidery stitches, back and forth a few times to secure without catching any of the Bone crochet background.
Position and pin the cheeks in place, using the above photo for guidance.
Use the tail end to stitch securely in place.
Position the flowers to the top/right of the face. Allow the first flower to stick up over the top edge of the tin, then place the second flower directly to the right at a lower level.
Use the tail ends to stitch them securely in place.
And now your Flower Lady is ready to give her tin a hug - doesn't she look lovely?!
And she looks even more lovely when she has a crown of real flowers. I think she's perfect as a little table vase, but you could use the tin to hold/store/display anything you like.
I was very lucky to have my project styled and photographed professionally by the Stylecraft team and the resulting images are absolutely delightful.
You can see and read more on my blog, I've written all about this project with lots more photos to share. Click on the following link for more visual gorgeousness >>
BLOGSTARS GARDEN PARTY BLOG
And here is the link again for the PDF pattern download >>
DOWNLOAD SUMMERTIME TIN PATTERN
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
