This is my Flowerpress blanket, a design inspired by the sun-faded colours of pressed and dried flowers with a delightfully soft, nostalgic, vintage vibe. The Flowerpress blanket is a design made up of sixteen large squares finished with a wide border.
You can read all about my design inspiration and see lots more photos of the Flowerpress blanket by clicking o the following link >>
MATERIALS
I have used Stylecraft ReCreate DK to make the flowerpress blanket. This yarn comes in 100g balls and is a blended yarn made entirely from recycled fibres....yes, yes, this is a 100% recycled yarn!!!!
The composition of the yarn is 40% wool, 30% acrylic and 30% polyester. The wool and acrylic are recovered from garments that would have otherwise gone to landfill and the polyester component comes from recycled bottles which are shredded and then spun into yarn.
I've put together this very pretty colour palette using ten of the ReCreate DK colours and I think they look amazing together.
From left to right, the colours are as follows :
🌸Teal 🌸Avocado 🌸 Pistachio 🌸 Sky 🌸Champagne 🌸Dijon 🌸 Rose 🌸 Blush 🌸 Cherry 🌸 Grape
You can find the Flowerpress yarn pack in my shop at Wool Warehouse, click on the link below...
*the yarn pack contains a 12 page full colour A4 printed pattern
COLOUR NAMES
A little reminder that you get to know the colour names so that you can identify them correctly when reading the colour information table.
The colour name is printed on the yarn ball band. Before you whip the paper labels off your yarn balls, please make sure you take a little snip of yarn and record its name.
ReCreate DK is best used as a centre-pull ball.
HOOK SIZE and TENSION
The standard hook size for Stylecraft ReCreate DK yarn is 4mm. However, it's a good idea to be familiar with your own personal tension and experiment with moving to a larger or smaller hook to achieve a neat result. I found that as this yarn is quite a light DK weight, my usual hook size was a little too big and I moved down a half a milimetre to achieve the right tension and drape.
Start out with a 4mm hookas standard, but if you crochet loosely you can reduce your hook size to 3 or 3.5 mm. Similarly, if your tension tends to feel quite tight, you can increase your hook size to 4.5mm to achieve the correct size square.
SIZE
I would advise crocheting the first SIX rounds of the Flowerpress square to check your tension and size. After round six (pictured above), your square should measure approximately 8cm across. It wants to feel quite compact, not too floppy or holey.
Each Flowerpress Square is completed in 16 rounds, and the finished square should measure approximately 26 cm across.
Once the squares have been joined and a wide border added, the finished blanket measures approximately 120 cm x 120 cm.
PATTERN NOTES
Each Square is crocheted in 16 rounds, as follows :
Flower Motif : Rounds 1 to 4.
Inner Square : Rounds 5 and 6 worked in Champagne.
Outer Squares : Rounds 7 to 15 crocheted as alternating treble rounds and 2-treble rounds.
Edging : Round 16 worked as a double crochet in Champagne.
MAKING THE SQUARES
Begin by making Square 1, following the pattern and colours given in the pattern. Please make sure you check your gauge after you’ve completed the Inner Square (round 6) and are happy with your hook size and tension.
Once you’ve completed square 1, use the colour information given in the worksheet to make squares 2-16.
You can download the colour worksheet by clicking the following link >>
EDIT TO ADD >> The written pattern for the Flowerpress square is written below. I've also created a full photo tutorial to support this pattern, which follows on from the written pattern, so if you need visual clarification or guidance, I hope it helps.
FLOWERPRESS PATTERN
Abbreviations
The pattern is written using UK crochet terms as follows:
sl st Slip Stitch
dc Double Crochet
tr Treble Crochet
htr Half Treble Crochet
2-tr 2-Treble Group - 2 treble crochet stitches worked into the same stitch
st(s) Stitch(es)
sk Skip
ch Chain
IMPORTANT INFORMATION :: PATTERN AMMENDMENTS!!
If you purchased the Flowerpress yarn pack from Wool Warehouse, you will have received a printed pattern. Unfortunately there were a few errors in the pattern at the time of going to print. In the pattern written below, the text highlighted in RED is the correct information. I'm so sorry for any confusion!
SQUARE 1
Flower (four rounds)
Round 1 : use Rose yarn
Ch 2; 8 dc into 2nd ch from hook; sl st into 1st dc to close round; fasten off. [8 dc]
Round 2 : use Pistachio yarn
Insert hook into any dc and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same st; ✸ 2 tr in next st;
Repeat from ✸ 6 more times; sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-3 to close round; fasten off. [16 tr]
Round 3 : use Sky yarn
Insert hook into any tr and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc in same st; ch 1; sk next st; ✸ 2 dc in next st; ch 1; sk next st;
Repeat from ✸ 6 more times; sl st into 2nd ch of beg ch-2 to close round; sl st into next dc; sl st into next ch-1
sp to anchor ready for next round; do not fasten off. [16 dc and 8 ch-1 sp]
Round 4 : continue with Sky yarn
Work out of the ch-1 spaces for this round.
Ch 2; 3 tr into same ch-1 sp; ch 2; sl st in same ch-1 sp; ch 1;
✸ In next ch-1 space, work (sl st; ch 2; 3 tr; ch 2; sl st); ch 1;
Repeat from ✸ 6 more times; sl st into 1st ch of beg ch-2 to close round; fasten off [8 petals separated by
ch-1 spaces]
Inner Square (two rounds)
Work out of the Back Loops (BL) of the ch-1 spaces between petals for this round, and in the Back Loops (BL)
of the petal stitches.
Round 5 : use Champagne yarn
Insert hook into BL of any ch-1 sp between petals and pull through a
loop of the new colour.
Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-1); 1 tr in same st; ch 1; sl st in BL of middle tr (the centre of the petal); ch 1;
✸ In BL of next ch-1 between petals, work (1 tr; ch 1; 1 tr); ch 1; sl st in BL of middle tr (the centre of the petal);
ch 1;
Repeat from ✸ 6 more times; sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-4 to close round; sl st into next ch-1 sp to anchor
ready for next round; do not fasten off. [24 ch-1 sp]
Round 6 : continue with Champagne yarn
Work out of the ch-1 spaces for this round.
Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 corner sp): 2 tr in same sp; 1 tr in sp to the right of a petal; 1 tr in sp to the left
of a petal; 3 dc in next sp; 1 tr in ch-sp to the right of a petal; 1 tr in ch-sp to the left of a petal;
✸ In next ch-sp work (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr) to form a corner; 1 tr in ch-sp to the right of a petal; 1 tr in ch-sp to the
left of a petal; 3 dc in next ch-sp; 1 tr in ch-sp to the right of a petal; 1 tr in ch-sp to the left of a petal;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning ch-sp to complete the corner; sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-5 to close the round; fasten
off [4 corners with 7 stitches along each side]
NOTE : At the end of this round the Inner Square should measure approximately 8cm. Please see notes at the start of the pattern regarding hook size and tension.
Outer Square (nine rounds)
Use a different colour for each round. You will be flipping the work after each round, so please take note of right side/wrong side info. Work out of the stitches for these rounds.
Round 7 : use Teal yarn, RIGHT SIDE FACING
Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 corner sp): 2 tr in same sp; 1 tr into each of the 11 sts along the side; ✸ turn the corner by working (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr) into the ch-2 corner sp; 1 tr into each of the 11 sts along the side;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning corner sp to complete the corner; sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-5 to close the round;
fasten off [4 corners with 11 stitches along each side]
Round 8 : use Rose yarn, WRONG SIDE FACING
Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 corner sp): 2-tr in same sp; sk next st; (2-tr in next st; sk next st) 7 times; ✸ turn the corner by working (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr) into the ch-2 corner sp; sk next st; (2-tr in next st; sk next st) 7 times;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning corner sp to complete the corner; sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-5 to close the round;
fasten off [4 corners with 2-tr × 7 along each side]
Round 9 : use Grape yarn, RIGHT SIDE FACING
Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 corner sp): 2 tr in same sp; 1 tr into each of the next 17 sts along the side; sk the
final st; ✸ turn the corner by working (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr) into the ch-2 corner sp; 1 tr into each of the next 17 sts
along the side; sk the final st; Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning corner sp to complete the corner; sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-5 to close the round;
fasten off [4 corners with 17 stitches along each side]
Round 10 : use Dijon yarn, WRONG SIDE FACING
Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 corner sp): 2 tr in same sp; sk next st; (2-tr in next st; sk next st) 10 times; ✸ turn the corner by working (2 tr; ch 2; 2 tr) into the ch-2 corner sp; sk next st; (2-tr in next st; sk next st) 10 times;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning corner sp to complete the corner; sl st into 3rd ch of beginning ch-5 to close the round;
fasten off [4 corners with 2-tr × 10 along each side]
Round 11 : use Avocado yarn, RIGHT SIDE FACING
Repeat as for Round 9, adding additional stitches
to complete each side. Remember to skip the final tr at the end of each side so that you have an odd number of stitches. [4 corners with 23 sts along each side]
Round 12 : use Cherry yarn, WRONG SIDE FACING
Repeat as for Round 10. [4 corners with 2-tr × 13
along each side]
Round 13 : use Blush yarn, RIGHT SIDE FACING
Repeat as for Round 9, adding additional stitches to
complete each side. Remember to skip the final tr at the end of each side so that you have an odd number of stitches. [4 corners with 29 sts along each side]
Round 14 : use Pistachio yarn, WRONG SIDE FACING
Repeat as for Round 10. [4 corners with 2-tr × 16
along each side]
Round 15 : use Sky yarn, RIGHT SIDE FACING
Repeat as for Round 9, adding additional stitches to
complete each side. Remember to skip the final tr at the end of each side so that you have an odd number of stitches. [4 corners with 35 sts along each side]
Edging (one round)
Round 16 : use Champagne yarn, RIGHT SIDE FACING
Insert hook into any ch-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc, plus ch-2 corner sp): 1 dc in same sp; 1 dc into each of the next 39 sts along the side;
✸ turn the corner by working (1 dc; ch 2; 1 dc) into the ch-2 corner sp; 1 dc into each of the next 39 sts along the side;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
sl st into 1st ch of beginning ch-3 to close the round; fasten off. [4 corners with 39 sts along each side]
NOTE : At the end of this round, the finished square should measure approximately 26 cm.
IMPORTANT NOTE - please make sure you number your squares to make the arranging and joining process an easy one! Pin or clip numbered pieces of paper to each square, or use numbered stitch markers.
SQUARES 2-15
Follow the pattern as for Square 1, using the colour information given in the worksheet. You can download/print the worksheet by clicking the following link >>
FLOWERPRESS SQUARE PHOTO TUTORIAL ↓↓
SQUARE 1
ROUND 1 :Use Rose yarn
Chain 2; find the 2nd chain from the hook (as shown above) - this will act as a central ring (you can use the magic ring technique if you prefer);
Work 8 dc into this chain;
Slip stitch into the first dc to close the round; fasten off.
Even though this crochet circle is pretty small, you should easily be able to count eight dc stitches (as shown above) so you know you're on track for the next round.
Turn your little circle over, thread your starting tail end onto a sharp darning needle and darn the end under the stitches (as shown above). You can then pull the tail end tight which will close up the centre hole and create a neat, compact little circle.
ROUND 2 : Use Pistachio yarn
Turn your circle so that you are starting on the opposite side to where you fastened off in the previous round (this will make sure you avoid darning all our ends in at one side). Insert hook into a stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr into same stitch (as shown above)
Work 2 tr into each of the next 7 dc stitches around (as shown above); sl st into 3rd chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round; fasten off.
[16 x tr stitches]
ROUND 3 : Use Sky yarn
Turn your circle so that you are starting on the opposite side to where you fastened off in the previous round. Insert hook into a stitch and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); 1 dc into same stitch; chain 1; skip next stitch;
✸ 2 dc in next stitch; chain 1; skip next stitch;
Repeat from ✸ 6 more times (as shown above)
Slip stitch into 2nd chain of beinning chain-2 to close round; DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Now before you move on to the next round, you need to get yourself into the correct place. So crochet a slip stitch into the next dc (to the left of where you closed the round), then slip stitch into the next chain-1 space to anchor ready for round 4;
[8 x 2-dc and 8 x chain-1 spaces]
ROUND 4 : continue with Sky yarn
Work out of the chain-1 spaces for this round - you will already be anchored into the first space ready to start.
Chain 2; 3 tr into same chain-1 space; chain 2; slip stitch in same chain-1 space (shown by my needle above); chain 1...that's your first petal made.
✸ In next chain-1 space, work the following stitches to create a petal : (slip stitch; chain 2; 3 tr; chain 2; slip stitch; chain 1);
Repeat from ✸ 6 more times, making one petal into each of the chain-1 spaces created in the previous round;
Slip stitch into 1st chain of beginning chain-2 to close round (shown by my needle above); fasten off.
[8 x petals separated by 8 x chain-1 spaces]
Ta-dah! How cute is this little flower, I hope you enjoyed making it. Now shall we press it onto its blotting paper? We are going to work rounds 5 and 6 in Champagne yarn to create the inner square around the flower....
ROUND 5 : use Champagne yarn
Turn your flower so that you are starting on the opposite side to where you fastened off in the previous round.
Work out of BACK LOOPS ONLY on this round, inserting your hook into the back loop of the chains which separate each petal, and also the back loop of the centre tr at the top of each petal. I'll talk you through it...
Insert hook into the back loop of any chain-1 space between petals (shown in the photo above) and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-1); 1 tr in same stitch; chain 1 (as shown above)
Now remember for each petal you crocheted three trebles? Skip over the first one and locate the middle tr of the next petal (shown by my needle above). Work a slip stitch in the back loop of this middle tr (the centre of the petal); chain 1;
Now locate the back loop of the next chain-1 between petals (shown by my needle above)....
... and work the following stitches into that back loop : (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr; chain 1) - this creates a "V" stitch which sits neatly between the petals.
Now move onto the next petal, and just like before, you skip over the first tr and locate the back loop of the middle tr (the position is shown by my needle in the above photo).
Work a slip stitch into the back loop of the middle tr (the centre if the petal); chain 1;
✸ In BL of next chain-1 between petals, work (1 tr; chain 1; 1 tr); chain 1;
sl st in BL of middle tr (the centre of the petal); chain 1;
Repeat from ✸ until you get back to where you started;
sl st in 3rd ch of beginning chain-4 to close round; DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Now before you more on to the next round, you need to get yourself into the correct place. So make a slip stitch into the next chain-1 "V" space (shown by my needle above) to anchor ready for next round;
You should have [24 x chain-1 spaces] - 8 of the spaces are in the middle of the "V"s between petals, plus another 16 chain-1 spaces on either side of each petal.
Now we are going to continue with the Champagne yarn and the next round will turn our flower motif into a square.
ROUND 6 : continue with Champagne yarn
Work out of the chain-1 spaces for this round.
Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-2 corner space); 2 tr in same space; 1 tr in space to the right of a petal; 1 tr in space to the left of a petal (as shown above);
3 dc in next "V"space (as shown above);
1 tr in chain-space to the right of a petal; 1 tr in chain-space to the left of a petal (as shown above);
Now work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) in the next "V" space (shown by my needle above) to form a corner turn;
The above photo shows how the first side and corner turn is made, so hopefully you can visualise the stitch repeats which will create the square shape. I'll talk you through the second side.....
1 tr in chain-space to the right of a petal; 1 tr in chain-space to the left of a petal;
3 dc in next "V" space;
1 tr in chain-space to the right of a petal; 1 tr in chain-space to the left of a petal;
That's your second side done, as shown above. Now lets repeat those stitches to form the third and fourth sides....
✸ In next "V" space, work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) to form a corner;
1 tr in chain-space to the right of a petal; 1 tr in chain-space to the left of a petal;
3 dc in next "V" space;
1 tr in chain-space to the right of a petal; 1 tr in chain-sacep to the left of a petal;
Repeat from ✸ once more to form the final side and get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning chain-space (shown by my needle above) to complete the corner; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-5 to close the round; fasten off.
You will have [7 stitches along each side, plus 4 corners]
This is a good time to measure your square and make sure you are happy with your gauge and tension. After 6 rounds, your square should measure approximately 8 cm across. Remember you can change your hook size to achieve the correct look, feel and size of your work. I found I needed to drop down half a milimetre from my usual size, so that the stitches remained neat and the crochet didn't end up too floppy or holey.
Once you're happy, you can move on and start adding some colourful rounds to build out your Flowerpress square.
ROUND 7 : use Teal yarn
Start in a different corner to the one where you fastened off at the end of the last round. This makes sure you darn in ends at different corners to stop any bulk forming.
Insert your hook into the chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-2 corner space); 2 tr in same space;
NOTE : Before you start off along this first side, it's important to locate the very first stitch (shown by my needle in the above photo) because it does like to hide! You might need to push your corner stitches out of the way so you can find it.
Work 1 tr into each of the 11 stitches along the first side, as shown above;
Work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner.
Now find that pesky first stitch (shown by my needle above)....
1 tr into each of the 11 sts along the side;
✸Work (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner space to turn the corner;
1 tr into each of the 11 sts along the side;
Repeat from ✸ once more to get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning corner space (shown by my needle above) to complete the corner; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-5 to close the round; fasten off.
You will have [11 stitches along each side, plus 4 corners]
There you go - your square is really going to grow pretty quickly now as you build out the next colourful rounds.
Before we go any further, I think it's a good idea to number your square. I used a little locking stitch marker and a fine sharpie pen to write the square number on it. This will really help you later on when you come to join your squares, but the stitch marker will also act as a visual reminder of the RIGHT SIDE of your work, because we are going to be turning our crochet after each round from now on.
So once you've marked up your square on the right side, flip your work over ready to start the next round.
ROUND 8 : use Rose yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
Start in a different corner to the one where you fastened off at the end of the last round.
Insert your hook into the chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
NOTE : This round is going to be made of 2-tr groups (2 trebles crocheted into the same stitch) with skipped stitches separating them.
Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-2 corner space); 2 tr in same space;
Skip the first stitch and work 2 tr in the next stitch (shown by my needle above);
✸skip the next stitch; 2 tr in next stitch;
Repeat from ✸six more times. You should have one last stitch remaining - this is the last skipped stitch before the corner.
Before you crochet the corner turn, just have a quick count of your 2-tr groups. You should have 7 of them, as shown above.
Turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner sp; skip the first stitch (as shown above);
✸Work 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next st;
Repeat from ✸ six more times, skipping over the last stitch before the corner;
Check you have 2-tr x 7 along the second side (as shown above).
Now work the third and fourth sides of the square in exactly the same way as for the second side, as follows:
Turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner sp; skip the first stitch;
✸Work 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next st;
Repeat from ✸ six more times, skipping over the last stitch before the corner;
Check you have 2-tr x 7 along the third side.
Turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner sp; skip the first stitch;
✸Work 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next st;
Repeat from ✸ six more times, skipping over the last stitch before the corner;
Check you have 7 x 2-tr along the final side.
To finish off, work 1 tr in beginning corner space (as shown by my needle above) to complete the corner; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-5 to close the round; fasten off.
You should have [4 corners with 2-tr × 7 along each side].
Flip your square over ready to begin the next round with the Right Side facing.
ROUND 9 : use Grape yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Start in a different corner to the one where you fastened off at the end of the last round.
Insert your hook into the chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
NOTE : This is a treble crochet round. The very last stitch before each corner will be skipped over, giving an uneven number of stitches along each side - stitch count is important, so check after crocheting each side if you need to.
Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-2 corner space); 2 tr in same space (as shown above);
Work 1 tr into each stitch along the first side, but SKIP THE FINAL STITCH BEFORE THE CORNER (as shown above).
You should have 17 trebles in bewteen the corner turns.
✸Turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner sp (as shown above);
Work 1 tr into each stitch along the side until one stitch remains; skip the final stitch before the corner;
Repeat from ✸ twice more until you arrive back where you started.....
....remember to skip that last stitch before each corner!
To finish off, work 1 tr in beginning corner space (as shown by my needle above) to complete the corner; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-5 to close the round; fasten off.
You should have [4 corners with 17 stitches along each side].
Flip your square over ready to begin the next round with the Wrong Side facing.
ROUND 10 : use Dijon yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
Start in a different corner to the one where you fastened off at the end of the last round.
NOTE : This round is going to be made of 2-tr groups (2 trebles crocheted into the same stitch) with skipped stitches separating them.
Insert your hook into the chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-2 corner space); 2 tr in same space;
✸skip the next stitch; 2 tr in next stitch;
Repeat from ✸ along the side. You should have one last stitch remaining - this is the last skipped stitch before the corner.
Before you crochet the corner turn, just have a quick count of your 2-tr groups. You should have 10 of them, as shown above.
Turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner sp;
Skip the first stitch; ✸Work 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next st;
Repeat from ✸ along the second side, then turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner sp;
Skip the first stitch;✸Work 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next st;
Repeat from ✸ along third side, then turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner sp;
Skip the first stitch;✸Work 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next st;
Repeat from ✸ along final side, until you arrive back to where you started.
To finish off, work 1 tr in beginning corner space (as shown by my needle above) to complete the corner; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-5 to close the round; fasten off.
At the end of round 10, have a quick count of your stitches - you should have [4 corners with 2-tr × 10 along each side].
I hope by that by the end of round 10, you'll have a good idea of how each round is working, especially knowing where to skip stitches.
Rounds 11-15 will now be a repeat of Rounds 9 and 10. I'll give you stitch counts for each round so that you can check as you go along.
Flip your square over ready to begin the next round with the Right Side facing.
ROUND 11 : use Avocado yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
This is a Treble crochet round - repeat as for round 9.
NOTE : remember to skip the last stitch before the corner turns on each side to make sure you have an uneven stitch count!
At the end of Round 11 you will have [4 corners with 23 sts along each side]
Flip your square over ready to begin the next round with the Wrong Side facing.
ROUND 12 : use Cherry yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
This is a 2-tr crochet round - repeat as for round 10.
At the end of Round 12 you will have [4 corners with 2-tr x 13 along each side]
Flip your square over ready to begin the next round with the Right Side facing.
ROUND 13 : use Blush yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
This is a Treble crochet round - repeat as for round 9.
Remember to skip the last stitch before the corner turns on each side to make sure you have an uneven stitch count!
At the end of Round 13 you will have [4 corners with 29 sts along each side]
Flip your square over ready to begin the next round with the Wrong Side facing.
ROUND 14 : use Pistachio yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
This is a 2-tr crochet round - repeat as for round 10.
At the end of Round 14 you will have [4 corners with 2-tr x 16 along each side]
Flip your square over ready to begin the next round with the Right Side facing.
ROUND 15 : use Sky yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
This is a Treble crochet round - repeat as for round 9.
Remember to skip the last stitch before the corner turns on each side to make sure you have an uneven stitch count!
At the end of Round 15 you will have [4 corners with 35 sts along each side]
KEEP YOUR SQUARE WITH RIGHT SIDE FACING.
ROUND 16 : use Champagne yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
This is the final edging round and is worked in double crochet.
Insert hook into any chain-2 corner sp and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc, plus chain-2 corner sp): 1 dc in same space; 1 dc into each of the next 39 stitches along the side;
✸ turn the corner by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space; 1 dc into each of the next 39 stitches along the side;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
Slip stitch into 1st chain of beginning chain-3 (as shown by my needle above) to close the round; fasten off.
Your final stitch count after Round 16 will be [4 corners with 39 stitches along each side]
And that's it - one beeeeautiful Flowerpress Square completed and looking gorgeous!
Now that Square 1 is complete, you can use the colour information given on the worksheet (click on the link below) to complete the remaining fifteen squares.
Once all sixteen squares have been made, you are ready to join.
JOINING THE SQUARES
If you haven't already, take some time to number each square on the right side to try and minimise any muddles during the joining process.
Refer to the diagram above which shows the joining sequence. The squares are held with right sides together
and a slip stitch seam is worked on the reverse side. Each seam carries across the whole width/height
of the blanket, so three horizontal seams are worked first, then the blanket is rotated clockwise through 90 degrees
and three vertical seams are worked to complete the joining.
NOTE : Use a hook size larger than the hook you used to crochet your squares – you can go up 0.5mm or 1mm,
this will help stop the slip stitch seam from pulling tight. When crocheting a joining slip stitch, your hook
passes through the outside two loops only – the loop closest to you and the loop furthest away, leaving
the two inner loops free.
Use Champagne yarn for all joining seams.
SEAM 1
Referring to the diagram above seam 1 begins on the right hand side of the blanket, joining square 4 to square 8.
Hold squares 4 and 8 with right sides together (square 4 will be facing you, with square 8 behind) and insert hook through the loops of the top right corner chains of both squares.
Pull through a loop of yarn; chain 1;
Match up the dc stitches on both squares and insert hook through outer loops only (the one nearest you, and
the one furthest away) of the first pair of dc stitches and work a slip stitch through both layers (see photo above).
Work your way along slowly, lining up the dc stitches of the two squares, working a slip stitch through both
layers of squares, remembering to check you are going through the outside loops only. Be mindful of your
crochet tension, you want to keep this seam gentle and relaxed, don’t allow it to pull too tightly.
The above photo shows the slip stitch seam with the squares opened flat (the wrong side facing)...
...and this photo above shows how the seam should look from the right side. Note that when you pick up outer loops only with the joining seam, the right side will show a lovely ridged line and the join will sit a bit set back from the surface of the crochet which gives a nice neat finish.
When you reach the end of the first pair of squares do not fasten off. Your seam will now continue straight onto the next set of two squares.
Hold squares 3 and 7 with right sides together (square 3 will be facing you, with square 7 behind) and insert
hook through the loops of the top right corner chains (both squares, shown by my needle above), then yarn over and work your first joining slip stitch.
Match up the dc stitches and continue to work your slip stitch joining seam along the top of the pair of squares, remembering outer two loops only, and a relaxed tension. You can see in the above photo how the seam continues from one set of squares to the next with no gap in the seam.
When you reach the end, do not fasten off. Your seam will continue straight onto the next set of two squares
(see photo above).
Hold squares 2 and 6 with right sides together (square 2 will be facing you, with square 6 behind) and insert
hook through the loops of the top right corner chains (both squares), then yarn over and work your first
joining slip stitch. Repeat the slip stitch technique along the top of these squares to the end. Do not fasten off.
Now hold squares 1 and 5 with right sides together (square 1 will be facing you, with square 5 behind) and
insert hook through the loops of the top right corner chains (both squares), then yarn over and work your
first joining slip stitch. Repeat the slip stitch technique along the top of these squares to the end. Fasten off.
In the above photo, this is the right side facing after the first horizontal seam has been crocheted.
The next set of four squares (numbers 9-12) are placed ready to be joined in the second horizontal seam.
SEAM 2
You will be joining on another 4 squares now, so refer to the joining diagram (or use the photo above).
NOTES : Remember you are passing your hook through the two outer loops only. Keep your tension even and be mindful of not pulling the slip stitches tight. DOUBLE CHECK RIGHT SIDES ARE TOGETHER (I made this mistake just once, but it's easily done!) You might find it helps to use locking stitch markers to physically attach the squares to each other before you join them (as in the photo above)
Repeat the process as for seam 1, working your seam across from right to left as follows :
Square 8 facing you and square 12 behind; Square 7 facing you and square 11 behind.
Square 6 facing you and square 10 behind; Square 5 facing you and square 9 behind.
SEAM 3
You will be joining on the remaining 4 squares now, so refer to the joining diagram.
Repeat the process as for seam 1, working your seam from right to left as follows :
Square 12 facing you and square 16 behind; Square 11 facing you and square 15 behind.
Square 10 facing you and square 14 behind; Square 9 facing you and square 13 behind.
Open out all seams so that the blanket is laid out fully, then rotate through 90 degrees clockwise so that you
are ready to create the next set of seams.
SEAM 4
Referring to the joining diagram above (I've rotated the diagram so that you can see that Seam 4 will be worked from right to left). Your seam will start on the right hand side of the blanket, joining square 1 to square 2 (Square 1 will be facing you and square 2 will be behind).
Remember outer loops only, and double check right sides are together!
Repeat the process exactly as you did for the first set of seams, inserting your hook through outer loops only, matching up the stitches and working an even seam of slip stitches to join the two squares together, working your seam across from right to left.
When you reach the intersections where the existing seam will run under your working seam (above)...
...work your slip stitches right up to the existing seam (as shown above)...
...jumping over the line of slip stitches to then carry on joining the next set of squares (as shown above).
In the above photo you can see the blanket opened out (wrong sides facing), showing how two seams cross over at right angles.
Once you've travelled over an intersection and made the seam, it's a good idea to open out your work and check the right side, to make sure you've left no holes where two seams cross over each other (as shown above).
Continue working Seam 4 across from right to left, as follows :
Square 5 facing you and square 6 behind;
Square 9 facing you and square 10 behind;
Square 13 facing you and square 14 behind.
SEAM 5
You will be joining another row now, so refer to the joining diagram, and work from right to left as follows :
Square 2 facing you and square 3 behind;
Square 6 facing you and square 7 behind;
Square 10 facing you and square 11 behind;
Square 14 facing you and square 15 behind.
SEAM 6
You will be joining the last row now, so refer to the joining diagram, and work from right to left as follows :
Square 3 facing you and square 4 behind;
Square 7 facing you and square 8 behind;
Square 11 facing you and square 12 behind;
Square 15 facing you and square 16 behind.
YAY!!!! SEAMS ARE ALL DONE!!!!
Now, aren't you more than a little happy that the seaming is done and you can darn in your ends and hold a blankety-blanket in your hands instead of a pile of squares??!!
With all seams are joined, we are ready to start creating the wide border.
BORDER
In the photo above, you can see the wide border I created for the Flowerpress blanket.
The border measures approx. 12cm wide, and is made up as follows :
Round 1 : Champagne treble crochet round
Rounds 2 & 3 : Rose double stripe
Rounds 4 & 5 : Sky double stripe
Rounds 6 & 7 : Avocado double stipe
Rounds 8 & 9 : Pistachio double stripe
Rounds 10 & 11 : Blush double stripe
Round 12 : Grape treble crochet round
Round 13 : Cherry double crochet round
Round 14 : Cherry scallop edging
You can follow my border design using the same number of rounds/colours, or you can reduce the number of stripes if you wish to make the blanket slightly smaller. If you purchased a Flowerpress yarn kit, you will easily have enough yarn to make this wide border.
ROUND 1 : Use Champage yarn
Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc, plus ch-2 corner space): 1 dc in same space; 1 dc into each of the stitches along the side of the first
square.
When you reach the joining seam, work 1 htr into the top of the seam (as shown above)...
...and 1 htr into the corner of the next square (as shown above).
This will straighten out the natural dip created by the joining seam (as shown above).
Continue working 1 dc stitch into each stitch along, adding in 1 htr to the top of each seam, and 1 htr to the corner of
each new square you come to.
When you reach the end of the first side, turn the corner by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the chain-2 corner space;
NOTE : It might be an idea to do a quick stitch count at this point - after round 1 of the border you should have 4 corners with 170 stitches along each side. This will give you 172 stitches in total. If you've got a few more or a few less, it doesn't matter too much, but ideally you should aim to have an even number of stitches along each side (a multiple of 2), and each side should have the same stitch count. Try not to worry too much if you don't hit the stitch count spot on - so long as it looks OK and you have multiples of two to work with for the next round, all will be well.
Onwards.......................
Continue around the remaining three sides of the blanket until you get back to where you started.
Slip stitch into 1st chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round; fasten off.
Stitch count : [4 corners with 170 stitches along each side = 172 stitches in total - this should be a multiple of 2]
ROUND 1 : Use Rose yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
NOTE : Now you will be working two rounds of each colour. You will be flipping the work after each round, so
please take note of right side/wrong side info.
Insert hook into any chain-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-2 corner space): 2 tr in same space; 1 tr into each stitch along the first side until 1 stitch
remains; skip the final stitch;
✸ turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the ch-2 corner space;
work 1 tr into each stitch along the side until 1 stitch remains; skip the final stitch;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning corner space to complete the corner; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-5 to close the round;
Slip stitch into corner space (shown by my needle above) to anchor ready for next round; do not fasten off;
Stitch count : [4 corners with 171 stitches along each side = 175 stitches in total - this should be an ODD number!].
Now TURN YOUR WORK so that the wrong side is facing you ready for the next round.
ROUND 3 : continue with Rose yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-2 corner space); 2 tr in same space;
Skip next stitch (as shown above);
Work 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next stitch; 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next stitch (as shown above) until you reach the end of the first side.
✸Turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner space.
Skip the first stitch directly after the corner, then continue along the second side in the same way as for the first side, as follows :
Work 2-tr in next stitch; skip the next stitch;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
Work 1 tr in beginning corner space to complete the corner; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-5 to close the round;
fasten off.
Stitch count : [4 corners with 2-tr × 87 along each side = 178 stitches in total]
Now TURN YOUR WORK so that the right side is facing you ready for the next round.
You will notice that this two-row repeat for the border follows the same pattern used in the Flowerpress Square, except that you are working two rounds with each new colour, turning the work after each round.
In the border pattern, rounds 2 and 3 form the pattern repeat.
ROUND 4 : use Sky yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
This is a treble round. Repeat the pattern as for round 2, remembering to skip the final tr at the end of each side so that you have an odd number of stitches. Slip stitch into corner space to anchor ready for next round; do not fasten off; TURN.
Stitch count : [4 corners with 177 stitches along each side = 181 stitches in total - this should be an ODD number].
ROUND 5 : continue using Sky yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
This is a 2-treble round. Repeat the pattern as for round 3, fasten off and TURN.
Stitch count : [4 corners with 2-tr × 90 along each side = 184 stitches in total]
ROUND 6 : use Avocado yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
This is a treble round. Repeat the pattern as for round 2, remembering to skip the final tr at the end of each side so that you have an odd number of stitches. Slip stitch into corner space to anchor ready for next round; do not fasten off; TURN.
Stitch count : [4 corners and 183 stitches along each side = 187 stitches in total - this should be an ODD number].
ROUND 7 : continue using Avocado yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
This is a 2-treble round. Repeat the pattern as for round 3, fasten off and TURN.
Stitch count : [4 corners with 2-tr × 93 along each side = 190 stitches in total]
ROUND 8 : use Pistachio yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
This is a treble round. Repeat the pattern as for round 2, remembering to skip the final tr at the end of each side so that you have an odd number of stitches. Slip stitch into corner space to anchor ready for next round; do not fasten off; TURN.
Stitch count : [4 corners and 189 stitches along each side =193 stitches in total - this should be an ODD number].
ROUND 9 : continue using Pistachio yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
This is a 2-treble round. Repeat the pattern as for round 3, fasten off and TURN.
Stitch count : [4 corners with 2-tr × 96 along each side = 196 stitches in total]
ROUND 10 : use Blush yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
This is a treble round. Repeat the pattern as for round 2, remembering to skip the final tr at the end of each side so that you have an odd number of stitches. Slip stitch into corner space to anchor ready for next round; do not fasten off; TURN.
Stitch count : [4 corners and 195 stitches along each side = 199 stitches in total - this should be an ODD number].
ROUND 11 : continue using Blush yarn : WRONG SIDE FACING
This is a 2-treble round. Repeat the pattern as for round 3, fasten off and TURN.
Stitch count : [4 corners with 2-tr × 99 along each side = 202 stitches in total]
ROUND 12 : use Grape yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus chain-2 corner space): 2 tr in same space; 1 tr into each stitch along the first side to the end;
✸ turn the corner by working (2 tr; chain 2; 2 tr) into the chain-2 corner space; 1 tr into each stitch along the side until
the end;
Repeat from ✸ twice more to get back to where you started.
1 tr in beginning corner space to complete the corner; slip stitch into 3rd chain of beginning chain-5 to close the round;
fasten off.
Stitch count - [4 corners with 202 stitches along each side = 206 stitches in total]
The next two rounds form the final Scallop edging.....nearly there!!!
ROUND 13 : use Cherry yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Insert hook into any ch-2 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc, plus chain-2 corner space): 1 dc in same space;
1 dc into each of the next 206 stitches along the side;
✸ turn the corner by working (1 dc; chain 2; 1 dc) into the ch-2 corner space; 1 dc into each of the next 206 stitches along
the side;
Repeat from ✸ twice more and you’ll be back to where you started.
Slip stitch into 1st chain of beginning chain-3 to close the round; slip stitch into corner space to anchor ready for next round; do not fasten off;
Stitch count - [4 corners with 206 stitches along each side = 208 stitches in total - this must be a multiple of 4]
ROUND 14 : continue using Cherry yarn : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Chain 1; skip the next 2 stitches; (as shown above)
3 tr in next stitch; chain 1; skip the next stitch (as shown above);
✸ Slip stitch in next stitch; chain 1; skip the next stitch; 3 tr in next stitch; chain 1; skip the next stitch;
Repeat from ✸ to end of side;
You should have two stitches remaining after the final shell and before the corner turn (as shown above);
Skip over the last two stitches before the corner; slip stitch into chain-2 corner space to finish the side, then chain 1.
If you want to do a quick shell-count, you should have 52 shells along the first side.
OK, lets carry on...
Skip the next 2 stitches right after the corner; 3 tr in next stitch; chain 1; skip the next stitch;
✸ Slip stitch in next stitch; chain 1; 3 tr in next stitch; chain 1; skip the next stitch;
Repeat from ✸ working 52 scallops along each side of the blanket until you get back to where you started.
Remember to skip two stitches at the start of each side (directly after a corner slip-stitch) to keep the pattern repeat
accurate.
Once all four sides are complete, slip stitch into beginning chain-1 (shown by my needle above) to close the round; fasten off [52 shells along each side]
Ta-dah!!!!!! I know that was a BIG ol' border pattern, but I LOVE the extra width and the calm finish it gives to the Flowerpress squares. Remember that you can always reduce the number of rounds in the border if you wish, feel free to make it your own.
FINISHING
Stylecraft ReCreate yarn is machine washable at 30 degrees, and I would really recommend giving your finished blanket a wash. The wool content of the yarn responds really well to washing and the fibres bloom beautifully, giving the blanket a really soft and improved feel.
You might also like to block your blanket to ease out any distortion created during the joining process - this is best done straight after washing while the blanket is still damp from the machine. Spread your blanket out on a carpet and use your hands to gently stretch and ease out the square shape. You can use this method to help make the seams straight, and ease out any twists in the squares. Leave to dry completely for 24 hours before lifting and snuggling...then enjoy!!
Here are some useful links :
FLOWER PRESS YARN PACK (with 12 page printed pattern included)
Thank you for this lovely pattern. I was wondering what the reason behind the alternating between the right and wrong side is?
Posted by: Saskia | December 07, 2024 at 08:57 AM
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern and for the recently added border. The colours are so soft and I love the raised effect with the single treble rows and turn for the double or v stich without the chain. Love it thankyou. I have just started the border with the rose or pale rose, I am using stylecraft special.
This is the first attic 24 and it wont be my last.
Posted by: Maureen Caldwell | October 22, 2024 at 02:53 PM
Is there any information on the border out there. It looks like there are alternate rows of trebles and two trebles just like the squares and think I can work out the colours from the images but if there are written instructions that would be good. Thankyou
Posted by: Maureen | October 20, 2024 at 08:10 AM
Hi. I’m loving making the blanket and I’m on the last square. Will you be posting the joining instructions? When do you think they might be up?
Many thanks for all your hard work creating this beautiful pattern.
Posted by: Martha Rose | October 19, 2024 at 03:59 PM
Love this pattern! Have made my 16 squares using my stash, couldn’t afford the kit🙁, but now needing the joining and border pattern..
Posted by: Sue | October 13, 2024 at 03:28 PM