I designed this edging pattern especially for my Harbour blanket which uses the Easy Eyelet Ripple pattern ((HERE))
The border is made using 5 rounds (although you can easily make it wider if you wish).
You will need approximately 20g of each colour.
I made a simple written pattern that you can download/print if you don't need the step by step help and prefer to have a traditional printed pattern to pop in your bag. You can find it by clicking on the following link >>
DOWNLOAD HARBOUR BORDER PATTERN
HOOK SIZE
You should use the same hook size which you used to crochet the stripes in the body of the Harbour blanket - there is no need to increase your hook size unless you find that your stitches are pulling too tight.
This pattern will show you how to fill in the "valleys" along the top and bottom edges of the Easy Eyelet ripple.....
....and then create a super-neat stripy edging to compliment the ripples.
COLOURS
I chose five colours for my border, and they are worked in the following order :
Harbour MIXED STRIPE (shown above)
- Cornish Blue
- Denim
- Tomato
- Dandelion
- Cloud Blue
Harbour COLOURWASH (shown above)
- Cornish Blue
- Lapis
- Turquoise
- Apple
- Spearmint
As mentioned, you will need approx. 20g of each colour. Please feel free to have a play and change the colours if you wish!
PATTERN
I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :
sl st [slip stitch] = insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
ROUND 1 : Use Cornish Blue yarn (mixed stripe and colourwash both start the same way)
Begin at the top right corner of your blanket - your darned ends should all be sitting neatly underneath the long side on the right.
Insert your hook into the first stitch and pull through a loop of yarn.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc - this will form part of the corner); 1 dc in next stitch (as shown above);
1 tr in each of the next 4 stitches (as shown above). These 4 stitches will fill in your "valley" over the top of the eyelet below.
1 dc in each of the next 4 stitches ( as shown above). These 4 stitches will take you over the top of your "mountain".
1 tr in each of the next 4 stitches;
*1 dc in each of the next 4 stitches; 1 tr in each of the next 4 stitches;
Repeat from * until 2 stitches remain.
1 dc in the next stitch; the last stitch is actually the chain 3 from the previous round. You'll be working a corner turn into the top of this chain-3 (shown by my needle above) as follows:
(1 dc; ch 1; 1 dc) into the top of the chain 3, as shown above.
You'll now be working down the long edge of the blanket (from top to bottom). You'll be working around the "post" of the stitch. This means inserting your hook into the gap between the last two stitches of that particular stripe row (where my needle is in the above photo), as follows:
Work 2 dc around the post of the first stitch; 2 dc around the post of the next stitch.
That means that for each stripe (2 rows), you'll be making 4 dc stitches - hope that makes sense!
Continue working 2 dc around the post of the stitch at the end of each row (so 4 dc stitches per stripe) until you reach the bottom corner.
When you reach the bottom, you'll be working a corner turn into the end of the foundation row - this will mean inserting your hook under a single loop (as shown by my needle above)
Work (1 dc ; chain 1; 1 dc) into the first loop of the foundation, as shown above.
You're now going to be working into the single loops along the bottom of the foundation chain.
1 dc into each of the next 3 stitches.
NOTE - the middle dc in this group will be worked into the skipped chain which formed an eyelet in the very first row of the blanket. Just insert your hook into the single back loop of this chain to make your dc.
1 tr into each of the next 4 stitches (as shown above);
1 dc into each of the next 3 stitches;
*1 tr into each of the next 4 stitches; 1 dc into each of the next 3 stitches;
Repeat from * until 3 stitches remain.
1 tr into each of the next 2 stitches;
The next stitch is the turning chain from the very first round of the blanket. You'll be working a corner turn into the top of this chain-3 as follows:
1 dc; chain 1; 1 dc (as shown above)
You'll now be working into the long side of the blanket - this is the edge where you darned in your ends so you may need to do a little bit of wiggling to get your hook under the posts of the stitches. Try and keep your dc stitches as neat and even as possible.
* 2 dc around the post of the next stitch (4 dc per stripe)
Repeat from * all the way along the long edge....
When you get back to where you started, insert your hook into the first stitch where you made the beginning chain-2 and work (1 dc; chain 1);
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round; fasten off.
And that's the hardest round all done and dusted - yay!!!!!!!!!
The next 4 rounds will be very much easier (and quicker) I promise.
ROUND 2 : use Denim yarn for Mixed Stripe, or Lapis yarn for Colourwash
Insert your hook into any chain-1 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.
NOTE : start each round in a different corner so that you darn in ends in a different place each time. This will prevent any distortion of the corners.
Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc);
Work 1 dc into each stitch along the first edge of the blanket.
When you reach the end, turn the corner by working (1 dc; chain 1; 1 dc) into the chain-1 corner space.
NOTE : the chain-1 corner spaces are small!! Look closely at the stitches to find the space, then wiggle your hook in there to make your corner turn. Use stitch markers in each corner to help locate them in the following round if you wish.
Continue to work around the edge of the blanket, working 1 dc in each stitch along the sides, and working (1 dc; chain 1; 1 dc) to turn the corners.
When you get back to where you started, insert your hook into the first stitch where you made the beginning chain-2 (as shown by my needle above) and work (1 dc; chain 1);
Slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round; fasten off.
And that's round 2 done and dusted - see, I told you it would be quicker!
Now the next 3 rounds (or more if you want to make a wider border) follow the exact same pattern as Round 2. Simple, easy, rhythmic rounds of double crochet to build up a neat stripy edge for your blanket.
ROUND 3 : use Tomato yarn for Mixed Stripe, or Turquoise yarn for Colourwash.
Repeat Round 2.
ROUND 4 : use Dandelion yarn for Mixed Stripe, or Apple yarn for Colourwash.
Repeat Round 2.
ROUND 5 : use Cloud Blue yarn for Mixed Stripe, or Spearmint yarn for Colourwash.
Repeat Round 2.
Darn in all ends neatly on the reverse.
Your corners should lay flat and look neat as they are, but if they are pulling or curving, you can always pin them out and very lightly steam them to set the shape into a nice neat point. I actually don't mind the slight curvy nature of the corners, so I'm leaving mine as they are.
If you want to see more Border stuff for the Harbour blanket, pop over to part 7 of the HABROUR CAL.
Here is the link again for the printable border pattern so that you can download/print if you wish >>
DOWNLOAD HARBOUR BORDER PATTERN
If you need to find any of the other parts of the Harbour blanket CAL, I'll list all the links below for you.
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♥ HARBOUR BLANKET INTRODUCTION
♥ HARBOUR CAL PART 1 - stripes 1-15
♥ HARBOUR CAL PART 2 - stripes 16-30
♥ HARBOUR CAL PART 3 - stripes 31-45
♥ HARBOUR CAL PART 4 - stripes 46-60
♥ HARBOUR CAL PART 5 - stripes 61-75
♥ HARBOUR CAL PART 6 - stripes 76-84
♥ HARBOUR CAL PART 7 - all about the border