These crochet bears are very simple to make and were inspired by the old fashioned traditional knitted bears that have been around for decades. There are many different charitable organisations around the world who collect and distribute knitted bears to give comfort and hope to children in need. Sometimes called “Trauma Teddies” or “Teddies for Tragedies”, these simple toys have been bringing comfort and joy to children for many years.
In the UK, knitted bears are being made by individuals and small charitable organisations and donated to the Emergency Services across the country. They are used by police, ambulance and fire safety officers to provide comfort to children in traumatic situations or emergency incidents.
The crochet version is made using just one simple stitch (a UK double crochet) and although the pattern and construction is very simple, the finished bears are super-cute! They measure approximately 10 inches / 25cm tall and are made using small quantities of DK yarn. The faces are stitched (no buttons or safety eyes) so that the finished bears are soft, cuddly and safe for children of all ages.
I've created a full tutorial with lots of photos to help you crochet this bear. If you would like to go straight to the written pattern which you can download and print out, you can find it here....
>>> CHARITY BEAR PATTERN <<<
MATERIALS
You will need small quantities of DK weight yarn (a soft and hard wearing acrylic yarn is ideal) in three different colours.
Colour A : for the feet, hands and face. This should be a "bear" colour - soft browns or neutral cream/beige. I'm using Stylecraft Special DK Mocha which I think is beautifully bearish!
Colour B : for the trousers and scarf
Colour C : for the jumper (you could make a striped jumper if you liked, or use variegated yarn in bright colours)
Black yarn : a short length to embroider the face.
Stuffing : this should be a soft, polyester toy stuffing which is fire retardant and conforms to safety regulations. You can buy this in 250g bags from online retailers (eg Wool Warehouse, Amazon etc) or look in your local yarn or craft shops.
HOOK SIZE
The finished crochet needs to be as dense as you can make it. If using Stylecraft Special DK, try a 3.5mm hook to create a nice tight crochet fabric with no holes. If you are a loose crocheter, you might need to try a 3mm hook to achieve the correct size and gauge.
PATTERN
The bear is constructed as a flat single piece, worked in rows of UK double crochet.
I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
A NOTE ABOUT CHANGING COLOURS
Throughout the pattern there will be quite a few colour changes. The best way to change colour when working in double crochet is to do it when you work the final stitch before the new colour is needed.
When you are coming to the end of colour A, work the final stitch of that row in colour A as follows :
insert hook into final stitch; yarn over and pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook, as shown above).
Now hook up the new Colour B yarn and draw it through both loops on your hook, making surer to leave a tail end long enough to darn in or crochet over.
Once the new yarn is pulled through the loops, you will be in exactly the right place to chain 1 and turn.
You are then ready to crochet the next row with the new colour, as shown above.
NOTE : If you hold your tail ends horizontally across the top of the stitches and make sure your hook passes underneath them, you can effectively crochet over both ends as you work the first row of a new colour. This will save you having to do any darning in (win win!)
OK, Lets get going with making our bear. We are starting out with a foot and leg.
FOOT : Colour A (6 rows in total)
Row 1 : Chain 10; work 1 dc into each stitch across; chain 1 and turn [9 sts]
Rows 2 - 5 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; chain 1 and turn [9 sts]
Row 6 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour B as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn [9 sts]
You can snip off the colour A yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to crochet over/darn in.
.
LEG 1 : Colour B (12 rows in total)
Rows 1 - 11 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; chain 1 and turn [9 sts]
Row 12 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; fasten off [9 sts]
NOTE : You can do a quick tension/size check here now, to make sure you're on the right track. The foot and leg combined should measure approx 9cm tall. If it's much too long, pull back a row or two until it measures 9 cm (keep a note of how many rows so that you can make the second leg the same length!)
LEG 2 : Repeat as for first leg (6 rows in colour A and 12 rows in colour B), but DO NOT FASTEN OFF! Chain 1 and turn [9 sts]
TOP OF TROUSERS (8 rows in total)
Row 1 : Continuing with Leg 2, work 1 dc in each stitch across [9 sts].
Place Leg 1 to the left of Leg 2 (as in above photo).
Work 1 dc in each of the 9 stitches across the top of Leg 1.
There will be no gaps between Leg 2 and Leg 1 - the crochet will simply carry across from one leg to the other to form a continuous row of 18 stitches (9 stitches on each leg).
Chain 1 and turn.
Rows 2 - 7 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across [18 sts]
Row 8 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour C as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn [18 sts].
You can snip off the colour B yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to crochet over/darn in.
JUMPER FRONT : Colour C (12 rows in total)
Rows 1 - 11 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across [18 sts]
Row 12 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour A as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn [18 sts].
You can snip off the colour C yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to crochet over/darn in.
NOTE : time to measure again, to make sure you're you're on the right track. The foot, trousers and jumper combined should measure approx 18cm tall. If it's much too long, pull back a row or two of the jumper (keep a note of how many rows so that you can make the jumper back the same length!)
HEAD : Colour A (14+14 rows in total)
NOTE : the head front and back is worked all in one, so 28 rows in total.
Rows 1 - 27 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across [18 sts]
Row 28 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour C as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn [18 sts].
You can snip off the colour A yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to crochet over/darn in.
The above photo shows you the proportions so far - the head looks massive because the front and back are crocheted as one section (you will fold the head in the middle).
JUMPER BACK : Colour C (12 rows in total)
Rows 1 - 11 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across [18 sts]
Row 12 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour B as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn [18 sts].
You can snip off the colour A yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to crochet over/darn in.
TOP OF TROUSERS : Colour B (8 rows in total)
Rows 1 - 8 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across [18 sts]; do not fasten off.
LEG 3 : Colour B (8 rows in total)
Row 1 : Continuing with Colour B, work 1 dc in each of the next 9 stitches; chain 1 and turn, leaving the remaining 9 stitches of the row unworked [9sts]
Rows 2-11 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; chain 1 and turn [9 sts]
Row 12 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour A as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn.
You can snip off the colour B yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to crochet over/darn in.
.
FOOT : Colour A (6 rows in total)
Row 1 - 5 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across; chain 1; turn [9 sts]
Row 6 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; fasten off.
LEG 4 : Colour B (12 rows in total)
Insert hook into the 1st unworked stitch - this is the centre of the final row of the trousers (as shown by my hook in the above photo).
Row 1 : Pull through a loop of yarn and chain 1; 1 dc in same st; work 1 dc in each stitch across; chain 1; turn [9 sts]
Rows 2 -11 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across; chain 1; turn [9 sts]
Row 12 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour A as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn.
You can snip off the colour B yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to crochet over/darn in.
.
FOOT : Colour A (6 rows in total)
Row 1 - 5 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across; chain 1; turn [9 sts]
Row 6 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; fasten off.
There you have it - one weird looking flat piece of crochet that looks nothing like a bear at all - well done!!
If you've not crocheted over your ends as you've worked, now's the time to darn them all in. Make sure all ends are tucked away neatly and securely on the same side of the work - this will be your wrong side.
Fold the crochet in half along the centre fold line, with right sides together and wrongs sides facing outwards.
Using Colour A, thread a length of yarn on a darning needle and join up the side of the head.
Use evenly spaced whip stitches to join the two edges together.
This is the wrong side (the inside) of the bear so don't worry too much about being super-neat with your stitches, but you don't want any holes!
Repeat for the other side of the head.
Turn your bear outside-in so that the right sides are now showing.
Keep the top corners of the head rounded (resist the urge to poke them right out!) - these are going to be your bear ears so they need to look round and cute, not pointed like a cats ears!!
Whilst you've got your needle handy and your Colour A yarn, we're going to stitch the ears. These are stitched using neat back stitches or small running stitches in a diagonal line across the top corners of the head (as shown above). You can make the ears as large or small as you like - this will add individual character to your bear.
Repeat the diagonal stitching on the opposite side to form the second ear.
You can see I made the ears on my bear quite small, but they can easily be made bigger if you prefer - just try and make sure they match on each side!
ARM 1 : Colour C (10 rows in total)
We are going to crochet into the ends of the rows along the top half of the jumper. Keep the right side of your bear facing outwards and open him up so he lays flat
Insert your hook into the end of Row 7 of the jumper (as shown by my needle in the above photo) and pull through a loop of colour C yarn.
Row 1 : Chain 1, then work 1 dc into the same place where you joined.
Work 1 dc into the ends of the next 5 rows of the jumper (you've made 6 dc stitches in total so far)
Now work 2 dc into the bottom of the head when you made your seam - you just have to wiggle your hook in where you can here and evenly space those 2 stitches.
Now work 1 dc into the ends of the next 6 rows (stopping at the middle of the jumper, as shown above).
Chain 1 and turn [14 sts]
Rows 2 - 9 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; chain 1 and turn [14 sts]
Row 10 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour A as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn [14 sts]
You can snip off the colour C yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to darn in/crochet over.
HAND : Colour A (6 rows in total)
Row 1 - 5 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across; chain 1; turn [9 sts]
Row 6 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; fasten off [9sts]
ARM 2 : Colour C (10 rows in total)
We are going to repeat the same process as for the first arm, crocheting into the ends of the rows along the top half of the jumper.
Make sure the right side of the bear is facing outwards and insert your hook into the end of Row 7 of the jumper and pull through a loop of colour C yarn.
Row 1 : Chain 1, then work 1 dc into the same place where you joined.
Work 1 dc into the ends of the next 5 rows; work 2 dc evenly spaced at the base of the head where the seam is joined; work 1 dc into the ends of the next 6 rows; chain 1; turn [14 sts]
Rows 2 - 9 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; chain 1 and turn [14 sts]
Row 10 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across, changing to colour A as you work the last dc; chain 1 and turn [14 sts]
You can snip off the colour C yarn, leaving a tail end long enough to darn in.
.
HAND : Colour A (6 rows in total)
Row 1 - 5 : Work 1 dc in each stitch across; chain 1; turn [9 sts]
Row 6 : Work 1 dc into each stitch across; fasten off [9sts]
And that's your bear all crocheted - YAY!!!!!
With the arms now added, ↑↑↑ this is what your bear should look like once he's folded in half again.
EMBROIDERING THE FACE
Time for a cute face now.................yikes!! This is probably the hardest part of the whole making process.
I found it really helped to take a look at Google Images to see how other people had made their bears look cute and not plain evil or unhinged...take a look at some examples of embroidered bear faces {{HERE}}
My advice would be to take your time and practice a few basic stitches on a bit of scrap crochet or fabric before you begin.
Using black yarn, first make your nose - this should be a nice neat oval shape if you can manage it.
You can make the mouth by using small straight stitches.
Eyes tend to look best if they are kept low down just above the nose and not too wide set.
I made french knots for my eyes, adding in and extra stitch on top of each knot to make them extra secure. These bears will be getting a lot of love, so make sure your embroidery stitches are secure and not too loopy or loose.
IMPORTANT NOTICE - PLEASE DO NOT USE PLASTIC TOY EYES OR BUTTONS. STITCHES ONLY.
Remember that once your bear is stuffed, his face will look more bear-like (it always looks odd stitching a face onto a flat piece of crochet).
And lastly, try not to stress about the face too much - you are aiming for "individual character" and not perfection. Your bear will be loved even if his smile is crooked or his eyes are wonky!
Now it's time for some more stitching up.....
STITCHING UP
Turn your bear inside-out again.
You will be joining the front to the back of the bear all the way around the edge from the hands to the feet.
Use the same whip stitching method that you used for the head, matching the yarn colour to the crochet to obtain a neat finish.
You will stitch all the way around from the hands, around the jumper, down the outside leg and around the feet.
Only the inside legs will be left open for turning and stuffing.
Once you've completed the stitching, carefully turn the bear outside-in. The arms can be a little tricky, just be patient and gently wiggle them out bit by bit, popping out the hands (use the rounded end of a knitting needle or a pencil if you need to)
STUFFING
Now it's time for stuffing. Use soft, polyester toy filling - please make sure this has been tested and is fire retardant. You can find toy stuffing in 250g bags online (try Wool Warehouse or Amazon) or in local craft and yarn shops.
Push the stuffing up inside the bear using small quantities at a time. Take extra care to make sure the arms are stuffed completely all the way to the hands.
Your bear should feel firm and generously stuffed, but retain a bit of squishiness.
Using yarn colour B, begin to stitch up the inside leg seam, adding stuffing to the feet and legs as you go.
Place some extra strengthening stitches between the legs, closing up any holes that appear in the crochet.
Awwww.....look!!! He is almost ready!!!
NECK GATHERING
Thread a length of yarn onto a needle the same colour as the jumper, and secure it at the centre/top back of the jumper. Stitch a line of running stitches, passing the needle in and out of the dc stitches in the top row of the jumper.....
....carry the running stitches right the way around the neck....
.....until you arrive back where you started. Give the end of the yarn a firm pull so that it gathers in the neck - not too much (!) - then make a few stitches to secure the yarn and fasten securely. DO NOT FASTEN OFF - leave the yarn end hanging for now.
SCARF
All bears need to be kept cosy, and the scarf will neatly hide the gathering stitches around the neck.
Use a colour to match the trousers, or a completely contrasting shade if you prefer.
Chain 51; begin in 2nd chain from hook and work 1 dc into each chain [50 sts].
Chain 1; turn.
Work 1 dc into each stitch along.
Work another 2 or 3 rows to create a thin scarf, then fasten off and darn in ends.
Your scarf will probably curl up quite a bit, so give it a light steam press to flatten.
Tie the scarf around the bears neck (awwww, cutie!)
Using the gathering yarn still attached at the back of the neck, make 3 or 4 small invisible stitches to attach the scarf to the bears neck.
And then.................................................
.................give your finished bear a big cuddle and a squish!!!!
I made a Lady bear to keep company with the Mister, but she ended up looking more like a cat (the nose should have been a horizontal oval and not a triangle shape I think). Still, I dearly love them both and will be gifting them to Yarndale as my contribution to this years Creative Community project.
If you like the idea of knitting a bear, there is a free pattern online. Thank you to my lovely friend Samm who very kindly knitted a bear to join my crochet bear gang!
The knitting pattern is very simply written with no photos, but the construction method is the same as for my crochet bear, so you can refer to my tutorial above to see what each stage should look like.
Click on the following link for the knitting pattern...
{{KNITTED CHARTY BEAR PATTERN}}
I would love to hear if any of you have made bears to give to the Emergency Services in your area, or if you have made Teddies for any other charities or organisations around the world? My hope is that I can begin to gather together a list of charities and organisations who would like to receive Bears for children in need - please let us know in the comments if you have any information or websites relating to this.
If you have come to this page as part of the Creative Community project for Yarndale 2019, ((THANK YOU)) so much for supporting such a deserving charity.
You can read more about Mercy Ships and the Bear Project over on the Yarndale website :
{{YARNDALE 2019 CREATIVE COMMUNITY PROJECT}}
You can download and print the pattern by clicking on the following link :
>>> CHARITY BEAR PATTERN <<<
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I really hope you enjoy making a bear and that it finds it's forever home with a child somewhere in the world x
