The blanket was inspired by the decorative details and bright colours of the canal boats moored along the Leeds-Liverpool canal in Skipton where I walk every day. I designed a playful stripe pattern with a folk art feel, making the cheerful colours really pop.
You can read more about the colours and my inspiration in the following blog post :
CANALBOAT BLANKET INTRODUCTION
The pattern is worked in single rows of colour, using a mixture of shells and plain rows to create a very bold, decorative stripe. It's an easy pattern to memorise and suitable for beginners.
MATERIALS
For my blankets I like to use Stylecraft Special DK which is a 100% premium acrylic yarn. It's lovely to work with, comes in generous 100g balls and the finished blankets are warm, soft and machine washable. I've chosen 15 cheerful colours for my Canalboat blanket which you can see above.
This year I also created a second Canalboat yarn pack which uses Yarnsmiths Merino DK, pictured above. Oh my, this is a STUNNING yarn, luxurious, soft and squishy and is an absolute dream to crochet with. You can read more about it in a blog post I wrote ((HERE)). Yarnsmiths Merino comes in 50g balls, so each yarn kit contains 30 balls (fifteen colours, two balls of each).
You can find both yarn packs in my my shop at Wool Warehouse with worldwide delivery.
BLANKET SIZES
Stylecraft Special DK and Yarnsmiths Merino DK crochet differently to each other, which means that the gauge and finished blanket sizes will be different.
Stylecraft Special - one yarn pack will make a blanket measuring approx. 120 x 175cm.
Yarnsmiths Merino - one yarn pack will make a blanket measuring approx. 100 x 150cm.
When reading the pattern it's important to note the different starting chains given for each yarn as they are different. I'll also give guidance for those who wish to make smaller or larger blankets. If you wish to make a double bed size, you will need two yarn packs.
HOOK SIZE
The standard hook size for Stylecraft Special DK (and Yarnsmiths Merino DK) yarn is 4 mm. However, it's a good idea to be familiar with your own personal tension and experiment with moving to a larger or smaller hook to achieve a neat result. For example, I'm a tight crocheter so I'm making my Canalboat blanket using a 4.5 mm hook. If you crochet quite loosely, then you will probably find that a 3.5 mm or 4mm hook suits you just fine. For this pattern, you will also need a larger hook size to work the starting chain and the first crochet row. You can go up by a half or a whole millimetre, depending on your personal crochet tension.
DARNING NEEDLE
While we're talking about materials, I'd also advise you to make sure you have a suitable darning needle so that tidying away your ends becomes a pleasure rather than a chore. I like to use a size 18 Chenille needle which has an eye large enough to thread a DK weight yarn, and a very sharp point which makes sewing in ends a breeze. You will need to look for a "Chenille Needle size 18". You can usually find Chenille needles in local haberdashery shops, or via Amazon ((here)). I'll give some more specific advise about darning ends in this tutorial.
TENSION/GAUGE
I would strongly advise you to make a small tension sample. Please, please take the time to do this, especially if you are following the CAL and using a yarn pack to make a blanket. It'll help you make your blanket the right size and drape, and will make sure you don't run out of yarn. Making this small sample before you begin on your blanket will also help you to feel familiar with the pattern and decide which hook sizes will work best for you.
PATTERN REPEATS AND STARTING CHAINS
The Canalboat starting chain should always be a multiple of 4, plus an extra 3.
NOTE - Special DK and Merino DK each have different crochet gauge, so starting chains and finished sizes are different for each.
Here is a list of suggested starting chains for different size blankets :
STYLECRAFT SPECIAL DK
Tension sample (20 cm/ 8" width) :: Chain 31 [7 shells]
Single/twin blanket (120cm / 48" width) : Chain 179 [44 shells]* This is my standard blanket size
Baby blanket (70cm / 28" width) : Chain 103 [25 shells]
Lap throw (90cm / 36" width) : Chain 135 [33 shells]
Double bed blanket* (180cm / 72" width) : Chain 263 [65 shells] *requires two yarn packs
King bed blanket* (210cm / 84" width) : Chain 307 [76 shells] *requires two yarn packs
YARNSMITHS MERINO DK
Tension sample (20 cm/ 8" width) :: Chain 31 [7 shells]
Baby blanket (70cm / 28" width) Chain 111 [27 shells]
Small single blanket (100cm / 39" width) Chain 155 [38 shells]
Double bed blanket (180cm / 72") width Chain 275 [68 shells] *requires two yarn packs
♥ DOWNLOAD CANALBOAT PATTERN PDF
CANALBOAT STITCH PATTERN
This is an easy pattern which uses just two basic stitches (UK treble and double crochet) to create an eye catching combination of shells and stripes. I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms, as follows :
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)
NOTE : at the start of each row there will be info telling you Right Side or Wrong Side facing...please keep an eye on which side of your work should be facing you. Most rows are worked with right side facing, but every fourth row has the wrong side facing. I use a stitch marker placed on the right side of the blanket for visual reference, and make it a habit to always double check at the start of each row.
To Begin : Use Tomato yarn (or Merino Burnt Orange)
Chain 31 for the tension sample or
Chain 179 for the blanket (or 155 for the smaller Merino blanket size)
Note : Use a bigger hook size (eg, 5mm) to make your starting chain and first crochet row, then switch back down for the second crochet row. You need to count carefully - place stitch markers at regular intervals (every 25 stitches) if you need to.
Row 1 : RIGHT SIDE FACING
NOTE : keep larger hook size
Start in 4th chain from hook and work 1 tr in each chain ; fasten off.
[29 tr for tension sample]
[177 tr for SSDK]
[153 tr for Merino]
Turn the work.
NOTE : this first row should sit nice and straight, with no rainbow effect on the bottom edge. If your work is bowing, restart using a larger hook size for the chain, keeping very mindful of your tension as you crochet and think relaxed, un-tight thoughts!
Row 2 : WRONG SIDE FACING
NOTE : change down to smaller hook size
Use Teal yarn (or Merino Teal)
Insert hook into first stitch and pull through a loop of new yarn;
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr into each stitch until one stitch remains;
The last treble of row 2 is worked into the top of the chain-3 in the previous row (shown by my needle above).
When you complete this last treble stitch, you're going to change colours in the last yarn-over....I'll talk you through it....
Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull a loop back through. You will have three loops on your hook, as shown above.
Now yarn over and pull through two loops, and you'll have two loops left on your hook, as shown above.
Now you want to line up your next colour - this is going to be Lime (or Merino Light Olive).
..keep your usual length tail end and use your hook to pull the Lime yarn through the two stitches already on the hook, effectively completing the treble stitch....
↑↑ there, isn't that neat? You should now have two yarn balls attached to your work, with the new colour all in place ready to start the next row. Give a little pull on the Teal yarn to tighten that last loop a little bit, then chain 1 with the Lime yarn to secure the stitch.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF!! Leave the Teal yarn ball attached - you're going to pick it back up in a little while.
Turn the work.
[29 tr for tension sample]
[177 tr for SSDK]
[153 tr for merino]
Row 3 : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Continue using Lime yarn (or Merino Light Olive)
NOTE : place the Teal ball to the right as you work, it'll just sit there until you need it. Have the Lime ball to the left as that's now your working yarn.
Locate the very first stitch (shown by my needle above) and work 1 dc;
Skip the next stitch;
Work 5 tr into the next stitch (as shown above);
Skip the next stitch; work 1 dc in next stitch;
Skip the next stitch; work 5 tr in next stitch; skip the next stitch; work 1 dc in next stitch (as shown above);
As you can see, we are making shells!
Continue along the row, as follows :
*Skip the next stitch; work 5 tr in next stitch; skip the next stitch; work 1 dc in next stitch;
Repeat from * until the end of the row - your last dc stitch will be worked into the top of the chain-3 from the previous row.
[7 shells for tension sample]
[44 shells for SSDK]
[38 shells for Merino]
Fasten off, but DO NOT TURN THE WORK!
At this stage, it's a good idea to take a look at your work and make sure you're happy with your tension. Your foundation chain should be nice and flat and your work will have a straight bottom edge. If you are looking at a rainbow with a bowed bottom edge, your chain and first row is most likely too tight. Consider re-working using a larger hook size than before for the chain and first row.
Row 4 : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Use Teal yarn (or Merino Teal)
NOTE : Your Teal yarn will already be attached and waiting to be picked up on the right hand side of your work where you left it.
Locate the very first dc stitch (shown by my needle above) and insert your hook.
Yarn over with the Teal yarn (as shown above) and pull a loop through to the front - it's as simple as that!
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in same stitch;
Skip the next two stitches and locate the treble which is at the top of the shell (shown by my needle above);
1 dc in this middle stitch (the top of the shell); skip the next 2 stitches and locate the dc stitch which separates the shells (shown by my needle above)..work 3 tr into the dc;
Skip the next two stitches and locate the treble which is at the top of the shell (shown by my needle above);
Work 1 dc in this middle stitch (the top of the shell);
*skip the next 2 stitches; work 3 tr in the next dc;
skip the next two stitches; work 1 dc in the next tr;
Repeat from * until you have three stitches remaining....
...skip over the next two stitches and locate the dc which sits at the very end of the previous row (shown by my needle above).
Work 2 tr into this last dc, and fasten off.
[29 tr for tension sample]
[177 tr for SSDK]
[153 tr for merino]
Do NOT turn work.
NOTE : You might find it useful to attach a stitch marker to the front of your crochet, to indicate the right side for future reference.
Now we're going to work one more row, then we can check our sample size and tension.
Row 5 : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Use Camel yarn (or Merino Vanilla Fudge)
Locate the very first stitch (this is the top of the beginning chain-3 from the previous row, shown by my needle above). Insert your hook into the chain and pull through a loop of the new colour.
Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 1 tr in each stitch along to the end;
Fasten off.
[29 tr for tension sample]
[177 tr for SSDK]
[153 tr for merino]
TURN the work.
For the Stylecraft yarn, the tension sample should measure approx. 20cm across.
The merino yarn sample will be slightly smaller and should measure approx. 18cm across.
As well as the size, you should also check that the sample feels good (not too tight and not too floppy) and that the bottom edge is straight and not tight or bowed. I want you to feel really happy with your sample and confident to get going with your blanket.
After row 5, the next rows are all repeats of what you've already done.
Rows 2-5 form the pattern repeat and I can promise you that you very soon get used to what comes next and when to turn your work etc.
Row 2 : wrong side facing, tr row (leave yarn attached)
Row 3 : right side facing, shell row
Row 4 : right side facing, straightening row (same colour as row 2)
Row 5 : right side facing, tr row
To help, I'll show you the next few rows to illustrate the pattern repeat...you can add these rows to your sample if you wish to.
Row 6 : WRONG SIDE FACING
Use Lipstick yarn (or Merino Crimson)
Repeat as for Row 2.
This is a treble row. You will be changing colour in the last stitch of this row (as shown above) and leaving the yarn ball attached ready to pick up later.
Row 7 : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Use Fondant yarn (or Merino Fondant Pink)
Repeat as for Row 3.
This is a shell row.
Row 8 : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Use Lipstick yarn (or Merino Crimson)
Repeat as for Row 4.
This is a straightening row. You will be picking up the yarn that was left attached at the end of row 6.
Row 9 : RIGHT SIDE FACING
Use Royal yarn (or Merino Royal Blue)
Repeat as for Row 5.
This is a treble row.
And that's it.....I really hope you love the pattern, it's a lot of fun to crochet and the colour play is absolutely brilliant.
NOTE : for each week of the Canalboat CAL I'll be giving you colour worksheets to use. These will list the colours, but I thought it would also be useful to give you right side / wrong side info, and a note about the row pattern for each colour. I promise that you will very quickly get the hang of it!
Now I'd like to chat about the darning of the ends. As you will have noticed, you're changing colour with every row for this pattern, so it's important to keep up with your ends. Remember to get a sharp ended darning needle (Chenille size 18) as this will make life so much easier.
DDD (double direction darning) is the way to go. Darn into the stitches rather than under them, firstly in towards the centre of the blanket...
and then turning to come back towards the outer edge. This is a very secure darning method and you can snip the ends off close to the outside edge of the crochet.
With the shell rows, you can darn into the shell, first one way, then back again, as shown above.
I would urge you to darn in as you go - darn in a row or two below your current working row so as not to disrupt the stitches you need to put your hook into, but do keep up with it as you go. You'll thank me afterwards!
And finally, here are a few reference pictures for reassurance....
The above photo shows the side edge of my blanket after my ends have been darned in. You can see it's not perfectly straight, but it's pretty neat and I know that once the border goes on, then you won't see any of the little lumps and bumps.
I thought it might also be useful to show you the wrong side (left image) and the right side (right image) of this pattern, so you know what you are looking at! You can see that they look very similar, with the wrong side looking a little bit more textured/bobbly than the right side. I mentioned that I use a stitch marker on the front of my crochet blanket as a visual reminder, and I make sure to double check at the start of each row that I'm working from the correct side.
You can download a PDF copy of the Canalboat blanket pattern to save/print if you wish. This is a traditionally written pattern with no step-by-step photos.
♥ DOWNLOAD CANALBOAT PATTERN PDF
As the Canalboat blanket is being worked as a crochet-along (CAL), you will be able to find all the colour information you need in my weekly CAL blog posts. Every Friday for six weeks I'll be listing the colours you need for the stripes. I'll add direct links to the CAL posts at the bottom of this page each week as we go.
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Here are a list of the links you might need...
♥ CAL PART 1 (this is where you'll find the first set of colour lists and worksheets to download)
♥ CAL PART 2 (stripes 34-65)
