Bower Bird

I am so excited to be sharing this pattern with you here on my blog, as this little crochet bird is probably one of my all time most favourite designs. In making this pattern, I discovered the unexpected joy that comes from turning flat crochet shapes into something round and plump and full of personality, character and life. It's a really fun process, and one which I hope you will enjoy just as much as I have when you make your own.

I designed this little decorative bird back in the Autumn of 2012. It was a project that I taught during a residential week in the south of France and you can read all about it here...(there are lots of pictures!)

The Bower Bird is so named cos he/she was originally designed to sit in a decorative bower. The bower can be as simple or as decorative as you care to make it :: smother it in flowers, or just add a few carefully placed blooms. Adorn it with a hanging heart and some pretty buttons and beads for an extra touch of charm.

I made a Rainbow Bower which I'm especially fond of, but the beauty of this pattern is that it can be adapted for all sorts of situations, occasions and flights of fancy. Make two (love) birds and surround them with hearts and flowers and you have a very sweet wedding or anniversary gift. Theme the colours in shades of blue or pink and you have a cute decoration for a baby's nursery. I would also love to make a Christmas version and can picture a red and white bird surrounded by a seasonal bower of holly, ivy, mistletoe and berries (a simpler version of my over-the-top festive wreath).

Another thing I love to do with these little birds is fill them with dried lavender. I keep this little grey bird (which I made in France) next to my bed and even 18 months later there is still a wonderful scent when you squeeze his tummy!

For all the Bower Birds I've made, I've chosen to work with fine merino DK yarn worked on a 3.5mm hook. The colours are vibrant and the stitches come out very neat, even and smooth which creates a beautiful finish. But as with all decorative projects, feel free to experiment...obviously, the bigger your hook/yarn, the bigger your Bower Bird will be when it hatches. Worked on a 3.5mm hook, my birds sit neatly in the palm of my hand and are just the right fit for a 7" round ring.

You will need two colours of yarn for the main part of the bird, plus a small length of yellow/orange for the beak. In addition you will need some extra oddments for working the decorative embroidery.

For the bower ring, you will need two or three contrasting colours to make the ring cover, plus additional colourful oddments to make the decorative elements (flowers, leaves, hearts etc)

You will also need the following bits ::

2 x 6mm black toy safety eyes (available HERE via Amazon)

A small quantity of polyester toy stuffing (available HERE via Amazon)

A 7 inch round flexi hoop or embroidery ring (HERE via Amazon)

The Bower Bird is mainly worked in UK double crochet stitch (equivalent to US single crochet), with some simple increase and decrease stitches. This is a pattern which requires careful counting (of stitches and rows) so my advise would be to tackle it when you have time to give to it and some peace and quiet in which to work!

The bird pattern is worked in five sections :: the body, the tail, the beak, the wings and the underside. The body, tail and beak are worked as one piece, with the wings and underside worked separately, as shown above.

I'm writing this pattern in UK terms as follows ::

sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

dc dec [double crochet decrease] :: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc dec)

THE BODY

:: Note :: The body is worked in rounds with a distinct start and finish and NOT in a continuous spiral. Each round begins with a chain 1 which DOES NOT count as a stitch. This little ch-1 serves as a visual marker, an indication of the beginning of each round and nothing more. It simply helps you to keep track of the starting place of each round.

Use colour A (the colour you have chosen for the main part of the body)

:: to begin :: chain 4, join with a sl st to form a ring.

:: Round 1 ::

:: Note :: crochet over your tail end as you work the stitches of round 1. Then when the round is complete, give the tail end a firm tug and this should close up the hole in the centre of your ring to give a nice neat finish.

ch-1 (does not count as stitch), 6 dc into the ring, sl st into first dc (that's the 1st proper dc stitch, NOT the ch-1!) to close the round (as pictured above). [6 sts]

:: Round 2 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as st),  2 dc into each st around.  Sl st into first dc to close round (as pictured above). [12 sts]

:: Round 3 ::

:: Note :: after you have made your little ch-1 at the start of each round, your first dc should be made in the stitch next to where you made the sl st in the previous round. In other words, don't put your first dc into the same stitch as your sl st or you'll end up in a mess! I've put my needle in the correct place in the picture above to illustrate.

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1 dc into next st* repeat, sl st into first dc to close [18 sts]

:: Note :: in the picture above, I've shown you with my needle exactly where you should be making your sl st to close the round. You can clearly see the ch-1 you made at the beginning, but ignore that and sl st into the first dc stitch you made.

:: Round 4 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 2 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [24 sts]

:: Round 5 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 3 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [30 sts]

:: Note :: at the end of round 5, you should begin to see that your body shape is resembling a vague hexagon, with your 2dc's happening 6 times in each round (as pictured above).

:: Note :: the picture above shows round 6 in progress. You can clearly see the place where this round started, and if you count carefully as you work each round there should be no need to use a stitch marker.

:: Round 6 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 4 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [36 sts]

:: Round 7 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 5 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [42 sts]

:: Round 8 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 6 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [48 sts]

:: Round 9 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 7 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [54 sts]

:: Round 10 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 8 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [60 sts]

:: Round 11 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 9 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [66 sts]. Fasten off and change to colour B.

This is what you should have in front of you at the end of round 11 ~ a roundish hexi-circle!

:: Round 12 :: Colour B

Pull a loop of your new yarn colour through the first dc of the previous round (as shown above), ch-1.

:: Note :: it helps if you crochet over your tail ends as you work to save darning them in.

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), *2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 10 stitches* repeat, sl st in first dc to close [72 sts]. Fasten off.

And that's the end of the Body. We'll work the Tail next...............

THE TAIL

Use colour B for the tail, the same colour you just finished using. Position your body hexi-circle so that the tail end where you just fastened up is directly at the top. Now count 4 stitches to the right, shown by my needle in the picture above. This is where you start the tail.

Pull through a loop of colour B (as above)

:: Row 1 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch),  1 dc into same st. Dc into next 7 sts. Turn. [8 sts]

:: Row 2 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch),  work a dc decrease across the first 2 sts, as follows ::

Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook.

1 dc into each of the next 4 sts.

dc decrease across the last two stitches as described above. Turn. [6 sts]

:: Rows 3 - 9 ::

1 (does not count as stitch),  dc into each st across (6 sts). Turn.

:: Row 10 ::

:: Note :: the wrong side of the work should be facing you as you work Row 10

Ch 2, sl st into 1^st st (in picture above, slip stitch where my needle is)

*Sl st into next st, ch 2, sl st into same st* Repeat  4 more times (6 little chain-loops in total). Fasten off and darn in  all ends.

This is what the end of your tail should look like....six little ch-2 loops secured with slip stitches.

THE BEAK

Use colour yellow or orange for the beak.

:: Note :: Turn work over so that wrong side is facing you . Work in front/single loops for the first row only. You will be working the beak directly opposite the tail. You need to locate the mid point opposite the tail (where your 2dc increase makes a slight point), then count 3 stitches to the right as indicated by my needle in the above picture.

There, a close-up so you can get the starting position. Remember to insert your hook through single loops of the stitches in this first row, the loops nearest to you....

:: Row 1 :: 

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 1 dc into same stitch (as above)

:: Note :: crochet over your tail end as you work this row.

5 dc across. Turn. [6 sts]

:: Row 2 ::

Work a 3-stitch dc decrease, as follows ::

Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (four loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all four loops on hook.

Your 3-stitch dc decrease should look like the above picture! Now do exactly the same thing across the remaining 3 stitches and work a second 3-stitch dc decrease.

You have just made 6 stitches decrease to 2....

....and it should look like the above picture. Turn.

 :: Row 3 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), work a 2-stitch dc decrease in remaining two stitches, then fasten off leaving a 15cm tail end for stitching up.

Your bird should now look like the above picture, with tail and beak in place :)

THE WINGS

Use colour B for the wings, the same colour as the tail.

:: to begin :: ch 4, join with a sl st to form a ring.

:: Round 1 ::

:: Note :: crochet over your tail end as you work the stitches of round 1. Then when the round is complete, give the tail end a firm tug and this should close up the hole in the centre of your ring to give a nice neat finish.

Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), work 11 tr’s into ring. Join with a sl st to 3^rd ch of initial ch-3. [12 sts]

:: Round 2 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 2 dc into each of next 9 sts [18 dc stitches in total]

You should clearly be able to see three remaining stitches, as pictured above.

Htr in next stitch.

In next stitch, work 1 tr, then ch-2. See where my needle is in the above picture? You're going to slip stitch into that 2nd-chain-from-hook to form a Picot Point...

Now work 1 tr into the same base stitch as the previous 1 tr, as shown by my needle above.

In last stitch, work 1 htr.

Slip stitch into first dc to close round. Fasten off leaving a 20cm tail end for stitching up.

And now make another identical wing, cos birdies do have two :)

THE UNDERSIDE

Use colour B for the underside, the same colour as the tail and wings.

:: to begin :: chain 2.

:: Row 1 ::

In second chain from hook, work 2 dc, as shown above. Turn. [2 sts]

:: Row 2 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 2dc into each stitch. Turn. [4 sts]

:: Row 3 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 1 dc into each st across . Turn. [4 sts]

:: Row 4 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 2 dc into first st, 1 dc into next 2 sts, 2 dc into last st. Turn. [6 sts]

:: Row 5 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 1 dc into each st across . Turn. [6 sts]

:: Row 6 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 4 sts, 2dc into next st. Turn. [8 sts]

:: Row 7 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 1 dc into each st across. Turn [8 sts]

:: Row 8 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch),  2dc into 1^st st, 1dc into next 6 sts, 2dc into next st. Turn. [10 sts]

:: Rows 9 - 17 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 1 dc into each st across. Turn. [10 sts]

:: R0w 18 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), work a dc dec across the first 2 sts, 1 dc into next 6 sts, dc dec across the remaining 2 sts. Turn. [8 sts]

:: Notes :: dc dec as follows :: Insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook.

:: R0ws 19-21 ::

:: Ch 1 (does not count as stitch) 1 dc into each st across. Turn. [8 sts]

:: Row 22 :: 

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), dc dec across first 2 sts, 1dc into next  4 sts, dc dec across remaining 2 sts. Turn. [6 sts]

:: ROWS 23 - 31 ::

Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 1 dc into each st across. [6 sts]

Fasten off, leaving a 60cm tail end for stitching up.

And that's all the crochet finished with now.....you can breathe out and relax those shoulders!!

Your underside may well look like a curled up fish, but don't worry if it doesn't lay flat.

Right, lets do a quick check....................you should have the following ::

♥ one body, complete with tail and beak. The only tail end should be dangling from your beak, all others need to be darned in.

♥ two wings with beginning tail ends darned in and the outer tail ends dangling ready for stitching.

♥ one underside with it's looooong tail end dangling ready for stitching. The short tail end should be darned in.

STITCHING

I know that decorative stitching isn't everyone's thing, but even if you do nothing else, please do have a go at adding some simple straight stitches to the wings. Use a contrasting colour yarn, bring your needle up through the centre point, then down again around the outer edge of your round-1 treble stitches. Aim to either make 6 embroidery stitches (as in above picture) or 12, keeping them evenly spaced.

The other simple stitching I like to do is a running stitch around the outer circle of the body, again using the crochet stitches almost like holes in a canvas which keeps the stitches evenly spaced.

You might also like to add a few tail feathers! Again, some simple straight stitches worked into a "V" shape look very effective.

And lastly, if you l-o-v-e stitching like I do, maybe a cute little lazy-daisy flower to add a final flourish?

These are five birds that I've made, showing you the decorative embroidery I added to each one.

MAKING UP

Once you have finished the decorative stitching it's time to start the assembly process, beginning with the wings. Position your wings using the above photo as a guide. They should be positioned central to the body shape with the pointy ends pointing straight down. You should already have your tail end there to thread onto a darning needle....make neat stitches around the curve of the wing shape....

.....ending directly opposite where you started. DO NOT stitch all the way around!!! The pointy tip of the wing remains unstitched so that it can stick out a bit and look a bit perky :)

Now it's time to give your birdie some vision, so get ready for eye insertion! I've used 6mm black toy safety eyes for a beady-eyed look, but black glass beads of a similar size would work just as well.

The eyes need to be evenly lined up and centred with the beak, positioned between rows 9 & 10 of the body as shown above. Fold your birds body in half length-ways to check that you are happy with the position of the eyes on either side. You need to be completely happy with them, as once the little washer backs go on, they aren't ever coming off again!

There is a bit of a knack to getting these suckers on, they are quite tough. Use both your thumbs either side and apply a bit of brute force. They should snap on all the way down to the bottom.

Now it's time to stitch the beak. You may notice your beak has a bit of a hole in the centre, so if necessary, put a few stitches in to close that up. Then fold the beak in half and stitch along the underside edge using little whip stitches, shaping your beak into a neat pointy shape as you work. Fasten off your yarn and darn in end securely.

Awwwwwwwwwwww!!!!! Your birdie should really be coming to life now!

Right...final bit of stitching up now. You should have your long tail end ready at the end of your underside piece. Place your bird with WRONG SIDE facing you, then position the bottom edge of the underside so it sits just below the frilly edge of the tail. Stitch neatly across as shown above.

Now you will be stitching up the first side, as shown above. Neat little whip stitches, over and over the outer edges.

:: Note :: Don't try and stretch your underside all the way up to meet the beak, you will be stretching/stitching too far up!! The pointy tip of your underside should sit approx 3cm down from the beak. Look carefully at the pictures above and below to check the positioning before you stitch.

As mentioned in the note above, you should finish stitching the underside about 3-4 cm below the beak, as shown above. It's roughly the point where you made your 2dc increase in the final round of the body.

Now fold the birds' face in half so that the edges meet (as in above picture) and stitch up that seam, working all the way to the base of the beak. Pick up just the TWO INNER LOOPS of the crochet stitches, matching them up on each side for a neat, even finish.....

Now pass your needle underneath the seam you've just made, bringing it out at the pointy bit of the underside, as shown in the above picture. You are now going to stitch down the second side....

Carry on stitching down the second side working neat little whip stitches. STOP when you are about half way down, it's time for some stuffing action!

Begin to stuff your bird, little bits at a time. Use your fingers or the end of your crochet hook to get the stuffing right up between the eyes and give a nice shape to the head. Lots of stuffing in the tummy, it needs to look nicely plump and round, but not obese so don't over do it!

You might need to stitch up a bit more, then adjust the stuffing, pushing more into the tummy space and evening it out as you stitch. Stitch and stuff  as you go until you're happy with the shape.

There needs to be just a little bit of stuffing in the tail, but only a small bit. Keep the tail quite flat. When you reach the bottom, darn in your end securely.

This is what the underside should look like when you've finished. Now flip him/her over and admire your newest creation.............

Awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ta-dah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

One more pretty little Bower Bird has hatched into the world!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now if you'd like to make a Bower Ring for your sweet bird to sit in, here is the low-down on how to go about it....

THE BOWER

First of all you need a hoop. I've used a 7" flexi-hoop which is a plastic ring used for stretching and displaying stitched textiles. As it'll be completely covered in crochet, it doesn't matter what colour you get. On Amazon UK I've found white ones HERE  and woodgrain ones HERE.

To cover the ring, all you need to do is make up a narrow strip of double crochet stripes. No shaping, just row upon row of hooky. Depending on your yarn, hook size and tension, your strip needs to simply fit neatly around your ring (eg I chained 10 to start, then made my rows 9 dc stitches across). Length wise, your strip will measure roughly 50-60cm long, long enough to fit snuggly around the ring so don't make it too long.

You can make your ring all one colour if you prefer to keep it simple, but personally I really like the look of stripes. Here I've alternated just two colours (working 10 rows of each colour), but more colours work as well. Just try not to make the colour scheme too chaotic...if you are using more than two colours, keep it themed (ie blues & greens) and make sure it's a good contrast against the colours of your bird.

If you are changing colours and making stripes, remember to leave a long tail end every time you change colours, at least 20cm as in the above picture. You will use these to stitch up your stripes which gives a super-neat finish.

Once you've completed the crochet, the first thing to do is stitch up the short ends so that you make the crochet strip into a ring.

The flexi-hoop has a handy little metal hanger screwed into the top. Unscrew the hanger....

....get your crochet strip in place, then RE-SCREW THE HANGER STRAIGHT AWAY!!!! This is really important to do straight away, cos trust me, if you don't you will have a devil of a job finding that little hole once you've stitched your crochet up.

Use your tail ends to sew up each stripe, running your seam around the inside edge of the flexi hoop, as in the picture above.

Keep going, and very soon you will have a bower all ready for decorating :)

If you fancy having a go at making the rainbow bower, the technique is exactly the same. Choose seven glorious rainbow colours, then begin your crochet with red. Work equal rows of each colour (I worked 8 rows of each colour), remembering to leave a long tail end at each colour change for stitching. When you've finished the purple stripe, change to a lovely sky blue and work your rows until the whole strip is long enough to fit the ring. Stitch up the short ends between the end of the sky blue and the beginning of the red, then arrange the crochet on the hoop so that the rainbow sits centrally across the top.

DECORATIONS

♥ HEART ♥

You can find the basic pattern for the heart here. Make two of these, then work a contrasting edging around each heart as follows ::

Insert hook into same hole where you finished off the heart, draw a new colour through to the front and chain 1. Then work 2dc into the next 3 stitches around the top of the heart (as above).

Now work 1dc into each of the next 5 stitches down the side.

Into the bottom stitch, work dc, chain 1, dc.

Now work 1dc into each of the next 5 stitches up the side of the heart. Then 2dc into each of the next 3 stitches around the top. Finally, chain 1 and sl st back into the central hole where you started the edging. Cut the yarn, pull the tail end up to the front, then thread it onto a darning needle and take the end back through to the reverse. Darn it in to secure.

When you have made two identical hearts, you can stitch on a button/beads if you wish. Then simply stitch the two hearts together (right sides facing out), adding a small amount of toy stuffing towards the end to fill out the shape. You can hang your heart from the top of the ring so that it dangles above the bird, or beneath the ring so that it hangs below. Use embroidery thread or fine yarn to hang it in place and perhaps thread on a few colourful beads for added decoration.

 ♥ SUNSHINE ♥

:: to begin :: ch 4, join with a sl st to make a ring

:: Round 1 ::

Use dark red or dark orange yarn.

ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), work 11 tr's into the ring. Join with a sl st to 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close round. Fasten off . [12 sts]

:: Round 2 ::

Use orange yarn.

ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr into same st. * 2 tr's into next st* repeat 10 more times. Join with a sl st to 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close round. Fasten off . [24 sts]

:: Round 3 ::

Use yellow yarn.

Pull  a loop of yellow yarn through first st, chain 1 (counts as 1dc)

In next st, work the following ::

1 htr, 1 tr, ch-2 then sl st into 2nd ch from hook to make a picot point, 1 tr, 1 htr (as in picture above)

dc in next st.

*In next st, work the following ::

1 htr, 1 tr, ch-2 then sl st into 2nd ch from hook to make a picot point, 1 tr, 1 htr (as in picture above)*

dc in next st.

Repeat between ** until you have 12 sunshine-points/ Sl st into ch-1 to close the round. Fasten off.

Make two sun motifs, place them with right sides facing outwards and stitch them neatly together around the edges. Leave a small hole to add a little bit of stuffing (don't over stuff or it'll lose it's shape), then finish stitching up. Use the tail end of yarn to attach your sunshine to the bower.

FLOWERS

If you would like to make a floral bower for your bird, you can really be creative and decorate your ring with all sorts of colourful crochet flowers.

If you take a look at my May Rose Wreath post, there are some patterns written there for little leaves and teensy-tiny micro flowers. I also have several flower tutorials on my blog, as follows ::

1. May Rose

2. Teeny Tiny flower

3. Double Layer flower

4. Japanese Quince flower

Make as many or as few flowers as you like...smother the bower in floral goodness, or create a select little posy, it's entirely up to you. Don't forget you can also decorate with buttons and beads.

All decorations need to be stitched in place, it's a little fiddly but well worth the effort.

Now that your bower is suitably be-decked, the very last job is to land your bird on her pretty perch! You can choose to face the bird sideways or forwards (as in the above pictures), or maybe something between the two. Use neat little stitches to attach the bird where the underside naturally sits on the ring. I've found it best to use the same colour yarn as the bird for making the attaching stitches.

And lastly, a few links to posts that you might find useful, mainly for extra pictures and background information>>>

The Original Bower Bird Ta-dah (the story about it's creation)

A short post about creating the tutorial, with photos from my Bower Bird Workshops (lots of colour inspiration)

And that......is just about it! I hope you have some terrific fun hooking up this decorative project, I think you're going to love it. As with all my patterns and tutorials I am happy to provide them here on my blog for free, for you to use and enjoy and have fun with. However, this pattern is particularly special and I'm hoping that if you do give it a whirl and hatch a Bower Bird of your very own, then you might consider making a small donation to help support what I do here in the Attic. It would be truly appreciated ♥

♥

ps.... I know this tutorial is VERY long winded and completely un printable (there are ninety-nine photos and over five thousand words for goodness sake!!). I know. So what I've done is to enlist the help of my very talented Technical Consultant (also know as J The Husband) and together we've created a PDF version of the pattern which can be downloaded. I've written it as a standard pattern rather than the full blown tutorial which I've created here, so it is six pages long and easily printable. 

I hope it's of help.......happy hooking!

Download bowerbirdpattern.pdf

xxx

Comments

[Laura]

Just finished mine and I love it thank you so much! I mixed and matched your bower hoop ideas and did some flowers and a hanging heart. It's for my mother in laws birthday next month, gonna need to make myself one now! Thanks again x

[Lily Stephenson]

I am working on my Bower for my bird - have also just booked my train ticket for Yarndale on the Saturday
Can't wait to meet Lucy and all you other hooky ladies who will be there.
Its a wonderful thing Lucy has managed, bringing us together on her attic24 site isn't it? XX :0) XX

[Nuria]

Muchísimas gracias por compartir esta preciosidad de patrón y por el esfuerzo realizado para crearlo.
Un abrazo desde España.

[Lambie]

I bought my yarn today :) Although, I couldn't find the lovely colors you use for your birdies :'( Not a pink in sight.

I chose green and blue for the birdie, golden yellow for the beck, and purple for accents.

Where can I find the colors you use? Like the light & medium pink, sunny yellow, light blue. I didn't even see red.

I just sat down to start my birdie and found I didn't have a 3.5 mm hook! How is that possible? I guess I'll go hook shopping tomorrow, sigh.

[Jody Herbert]

I love this bird pattern - what a wonderful tutorial - thankyou! I can't wait to make one up now.

[Carys]

Aww Lucy, I love it, thanks so much!! I've already made one, and have a second on my hook, I'm so excited! See it here: http://thenimblemouse.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/attic24s-bower-bird.html

Carys xx

[Jessica]

This is just gorgeous! I have just finished my birdie, and it was so easy thanks to your generous post! Thank you! :)

[Peta-Ann Cowan]

I just love it. I am sure it will fly off my hook one of these days. I love the way you show exactly where stitches should be put. I am in Europe for a few weeks but will get to it when back home in Bolivia. Your page is one of my contacts with UK. Lots of love and thanks, Peta Cowan

[Emma Murace]

Lucy, thank you for sharing your crochet patterns, your tutorials, crochet knowledge and your life....Attic24 is one of the best "places" in the world to visit, and I visit it every day. Being a new crocheter, I think I can produce something as beautiful as these bower birds...I can't wait to try. Cheers from Sydney Australia on this cold wintry day.

[Star]

I am moving in a couple of weeks and all my yarn (apart from my current project) is packed up, but when it gets unpacked, I shall make one of your lovely birds.

[Jenny Jones]

you are awesome and just so talented and generous thank you

[Devika]

This is wonderful! Thank you so very much, Lucy...:)

[Joyce Shelley]

Hi Lucy, I have been following your blog since January and I never cease to be amazed. Thank you for allowing me to peek into your life from time to time and share in your "hooking." I can't wait to start one of these birds. Thanks again.
Joyce

[Jane]

Thank you so much for this amazing tutorial Lucy-please have a coffee on me-you're the best! Xxxx

[Melody A.]

Thank you so much Lucy for the pattern, I have donated to you for doing such a wonderful thing for us all!!!

[Porcher valerie]

merci Lucy,vous êtes un ravissement pour moi.Presque chaque jour je vous lis,je fais vos modèles,et j espère un jour venir faire les belles balades de votre Yorkshire.J aime votre anthousiasme,votre gaité, cela se voit dans le choix de vos couleurs.A demain ,pour vous lire encore.je vis dans un beau village du pays basque (france)

[Anna]

From Mallorca (Spain), with all my love.... thank you very, very much!!!! YOU ARE SIMPLY THE BEST!!! Kss

[Pat]

Yay .... my weekend is planned, one Bower Bird hopefully flying off my hook! Thank you Lucy! xx Pat

[Deirdre]

OMG Lucy you are amazing, thank you sooooo much for all the work you've put into this tutorial, right now I've just finished a ripple blanket & I'm starting the bunting in blue AND pink for grandchild no3 who's due in 4 weeks(gender unknown, hence both pink & blue),a granny stripe blanket for me is next on the list...buuuutttt!!!.... that bower bird will be hanging in my house by Christmas, thanks again for all your work!!!!!! xxxxx

[Lambie]

Is this yarn the correct yarn to use?

http://www.knitpicks.com/yarns/Swish_DK_Yarn__D5420168.html

Fiber Content: 100% Superwash Merino Wool
Weight: DK Weight
Crochet Gauge: 12–17 sc = 4'' on 7-I hooks (4.5mm - 5.5mm)
Yards: 123
Grams: 50
Put Up: ball
Care: Machine wash gentle cold, dry flat

[Dianne]

Your generosity and willingness to share your ideas makes me feel that you are a wonderful soul! I also have followed your directions for the patchwork and ripple afghans. Your directions gave me so much inspiration.
I do hope you feel the gratitude I'm sending to you.
Soon I will begin a bower bird and Thankyou for sharing. I'm from Canada and love looking at all the many birds in our trees at this time of year.

[Selina]

Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you. Well worth the wait.

[narf7]

Again, if you are able to embed programs in your page (which I think Blogger blogs are able to do?) you can add this button to your posts whereby people can choose to create a pdf of your posts with no hard work involved on either side...

http://www.printfriendly.com/

[sheila 77]

Hello Lucy, This is AMAZING! and so generous of you. It must have taken ages to photograph and write this. I love your bird and all its accessories.
Thanks a million. I've loved your blog since it started.

[M.]

Dear Lucy,

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU! This is wonderful. I truly appreciate your generosity and kindness, to say nothing of your creativity and talent, in sharing this here. This is great! Thank you again and God bless.

M.