Baby Bunting

I created this Baby Bunting pattern quite a few years ago for Simply Crochet magazine (it appeared in issue 19; 2014). The original design was made of 12 triangles all in shades of blue - you can read more about it on my blog by clicking on the following link : ATTIC24 SUMMER BLUES BUNTING

I then went on to make an all pink version with the idea that they would make the most beautiful gifts to decorate a baby's nursery or a child's bedroom. You can buy both blue and pink bunting kits in my shop at Wool Warehouse - each kit contains 4 x 100g Stylecraft Special DK, 13 cute little blue/pink spotty buttons and a printed pattern.

♥ BLUE BUNTING KIT ♥ 

♥ PINK BUNTING KIT ♥

In 2016 I made a third version using left over yarn from my Cupcake blanket. 

These soft pastel colours looked really pretty decorating my mantel for Easter that year, and I ended up leaving it in place for many months as I couldn't bare to pack it away! Since then I've always thought of it as Spring/Summer bunting and have brought it out every year to brighten up my mantel once all the festive decorations get packed away.

These Baby Bunting triangles make really great little stash busting projects as each round only takes a small amount of yarn. You can mix and match colours to create different looks for whatever occasion you have in mind - decorating bedrooms, a boring stretch of shelving, a plain fireplace, a summerhouse or craft shed, a garden fence......hang it pretty much anywhere! It never fails to lift the spirits and creates a lovely homespun, cosy atmosphere.

Just recently I made myself a new string of fifteen triangles using combined left over scraps from my Sweet Pea and Dune blankets. I absolutely adore these colours, they are soft and warm, floral and breezy and perfect for summer decorating. You can see more photos of this bunting on my blog by clicking the following link : BABY BUNTING.

♥ BABY BUNTING SIZE

Each triangle measures approximately 12 cm across after blocking.

15  triangles will create a length of bunting approximately 180 cm - you can join as many or as few triangles as you like to create the finished length you need.

♥ MATERIALS

I am using my favourite Stylecraft Special DK for this bunting as I have a huge stash of small part-balls left over after making so many blankets. You can use whatever DK weight yarn you have to hand - cotton or wool would work equally as well as acrylic. although keep in mind that acrylic is much more durable against the elements if you are planning on hanging it outdoors. 

In terms of colours, each triangle is made up in four rounds and I like to use a different colour for each round. I also prefer to make each triangle unique (no two triangles the same in any given length of bunting), but it is entirely up to you how you go about selecting your colours.

Choose a good overall palette of colours to theme your bunting for a specific location or occasion,  or choose deliberately mis-matching shades for an eclectic, boho look.

Using leftovers from one of my blanket packs will automatically give you a curated palette to work from, and will enable you to make a really lovely little matching accessory to go with the finished blanket - this would be especially lovely in a bedroom, or to give away as a gift.

♥ HOOK SIZE

Unlike blankets or garments, the size/tension for this type of project doesn't really matter too much, so long as you are achieving an even tension and a neat finish. If you are using Stylecraft Special DK, simply use whichever hook size you would normally reach for when making a blanket from this yarn (the standard is 4 mm). 

♥ BUTTONS

I've chosen to add small 14 mm buttons to my bunting to give a lovely little finishing touch - these are optional, but I think they are well worth the extra little bit of sewing. They look super-cute!

You can use any buttons you have to hand, but if you like the ones I've used for my bunting, you can find them in my shop at Wool Warehouse - YAY for cute little buttons all colour co-ordinated for you!

Each button pack contains 16 x 14mm buttons (8 colours, 2 of each colour) which are perfect to decorate a string of 15 bunting triangles. 

The set shown above is the "PASTEL" button pack (click HERE to find it)

There is also a "BRIGHTS" button pack which goes beautifully with the stronger shades of Stylecraft Special DK (above you can see triangles made from my Original yarn pack).

"BRIGHTS" button pack (click HERE to find it)

♥ BABY BUNTING PATTERN 

I'm creating a full photo-heavy tutorial for this pattern, suitable for beginners. If you are an experienced crocheter, you can jump to the end of the tutorial where I'll write out a condensed, traditional pattern for you - please feel free to copy/paste the text into a word document and print it out if you wish.

I'm writing my pattern using UK crochet terms as follows :

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

♥ COLOURS

Please note I'm not giving any colour information in this tutorial - I'm assuming you will use left over blanket making yarn, or whatever DK yarn scraps you have in your stash. We will be changing colour with each round (4 rounds in each triangle), but you can easily make each triangle in a single colour if you prefer.  

TO BEGIN :

Chain 5; slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.

ROUND 1 :

note : make sure you crochet over your tail end as you make your stitches for this round - hold the tail end in place horizontally and make sure your hook passes underneath it with each stitch you make.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 3 tr into the ring; chain 3 (as shown above);

4 tr into the ring; chain 3;

4 tr into the ring; chain 3;

Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round (shown by my needle in the above photo);

Fasten off.

Flip your triangle over, and give the tail end a firm pull....

...this will close up the hole in the middle to give a nice neat finish.

ROUND 2:

note : you can crochet over your tail ends as you make your stitches for this round too - this will mean no darning in ends!!

Insert your hook into the chain-3 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

note : If you find this no-knot joining method tricky, it's OK to knot the new colour to the tail end of the previous colour to secure it, making sure the knot stays as close to the stitches as possible. You can then insert your hook into the corner space, yarn over the new colour and pull it through to the front.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr); 2 tr into the same corner space;

note : the next two stitches of this round can be tricky - they are quite close together, so take your time with it.

1 tr into the first stitch (this is actually the top of the chain-3, shown by my needle in the above photo);

1 tr into each of the next 3 stitches;

You can see in the above photo how I've crocheted over my tail ends and carried them along under each stitch - this saves a lot of time as you won't need to darn them in, just snip them off at the end.

To turn the corner, work (3 tr; chain 3; 3 tr) into the corner space, as shown above.

Your next stitch will go where my needle is in the above photo - this can often be hidden under the trebles you've just made so make sure you don't miss it!

1 tr into each of the next 4 stitches (2nd side);

(3 tr: chain 3; 3 tr) into the corner space (2nd corner);

1 tr into each of the next 4 stitches (3rd side);

Work 3 tr into the very first corner space, right next to the beginning chain 3 (this completes the 1st corner);

Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round (shown by my needle in the above photo);

Fasten off.

You should have 10 stitches along each side of your triangle.

ROUND 3:

note : remember to crochet over your tail ends!

Insert your hook into the chain-3 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 3; 2 tr into the same corner space;

note : watch out for those next two close-together stitches - the first one is the top of the chain-3 from the previous round and the second one is right next to it.

Work 1 tr into each of the next 10 stitches;

Work (3 tr; chain 3; 3 tr) into the corner space (2nd corner)

1 tr into each of the next 10 stitches (2nd side);

(3 tr; chain 3; 3 tr) into the corner space (3rd corner)

1 tr into each of the next 10 stitches (3rd side);

Work 3 tr into the very first corner space, right next to the beginning chain 3 (this completes the 1st corner);

Slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the beginning chain-3 to close the round (shown by my needle in the above photo);

Fasten off.

You should have 16 stitches along each side of your triangle.

ROUND 4 : (the edging)

note : remember to crochet over your tail ends!

Insert your hook into the chain-3 corner space and pull through a loop of the new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc); 2 dc into same corner space.

note : same as before, watch out for those two close-together stitches - the first one is the top of the chain-3 from the previous round and the second one is right next to it.

Work 1 dc into each of the next 16 stitches;

work 3 dc into the corner space (as shown above);

Chain 3; skip 1 stitch; slip stitch into the next stitch (shown by my needle above); chain 3;

*skip 1 stitch; slip stitch into the next stitch; chain 3 (shown by my needle above);

Repeat from * seven more times until you reach the end of the side.

You should have 9 lots of chain-3 and 8 slip stitches (as shown above)

Slip stitch into the corner space (shown by my needle in the above photo); 

Chain 3; slip stitch into the corner space again (this forms a little loopy point right at the very bottom of your triangle);

Chain 3; slip stitch into the next stitch (shown by my needle in the above photo)

Chain 3;

*Skip 1 stitch; slip stitch into the next stitch; chain 3

Repeat from * 7 more times......

....you should have one stitch remaining.

Skip the last stitch; slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain-2 to close the round.

Fasten off, and darn in the last tail end.

Oh.......too cute!!!!!!!!!!! Baby Bunting triangles will be flying off your hook in no time!!

I hope you enjoy finding some colour combinations that make you really happy....

.....this is such good colour therapy!

♥ BLOCKING

Once you've made all fifteen of your triangles, they will really benefit from a little bit of light steam blocking before you join them all together. You will need an old towel over a piece of thick foam, or a foam blocking board and a few pins. Oh, and a steam iron too, set to a low heat.

Place your triangle on the towel/board with the wrong side facing uppermost.

Begin by carefully pinning/stretching out the chain loop right at the bottom/centre of your triangle.

Now gently stretch your triangle into shape and pin out the top two corners. Don't stretch it too much - aim for a nice neat shape but don't distort your stitches.

Take your iron and hold it about an inch above the crochet - remember THE IRON DOES NOT TOUCH THE CROCHET!!!

Hover it and puff a little steam - this literally takes 2 seconds!! Don't over do it or you will kill the acrylic and end up with flat, limp bunting.

Smooth the triangle flat with your hand, then take out the pins - the triangle shape should hold beautifully and will be all neat and very pleasing.....

↑↑ You can see the difference that blocking makes - the blocked triangle is on the left, unblocked on the right. It's definitely worth the extra time and effort, I promise you.

♥ JOINING 

Once all your triangles are blocked, have a good play with them and decide on the order you want them. 

You will need to choose THREE COLOURS for the joining band. You'll begin joining from the right hand side, working right to left along the top/straight edges of your triangles.

ROW 1 : 

Note : work in Back Loops Only, just for this first row. Rows 2 and 3 will be worked in both loops of the stitch.

Insert hook into the first stitch (back loop) and pull through the new colour.

Chain 1; 1 dc in same stitch;

Work 1 dc in each stitch along (back loops only) until you come to the end of the top/flat edge of your first triangle.

Position the second triangle next to the first one - you will be working a dc into the back loop of that very first stitch (where my needle is pointing in the above photo). There is no spacing here - you move directly from one triangle to the next working a continuous row of dc.

Keep your tension nice and even and work 1 dc into the back loops of each stitch along the top of the second triangle.

Line up your third triangle and continue your dc row across the top edge. Remember no spaces, just carry your dc stitches across from one triangle to the next (keep in back loops only). 

Keep going, working through your triangles until all fifteen are joined together.

Fasten off and darn in ends.

There is no turning - Row 2 will be worked from the right hand side, where you started Row 1.

Row 2 :

This row is worked in Half Trebles (which is Half Double/hdc in US terms) A quick reminder of this stitch :

htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)

Insert your hook into the first dc stitch of row 1 (working in both loops now), and chain 2 (counts as 1 htr);

1 htr in each stitch along - EASY PEASY!!! You won't have any trouble where the triangles join as you are simply working into the dc row all the way along the whole length of bunting.

When you reach the end, fasten off and darn in ends.

You'll go back to the beginning of the row to join your third colour (no turning).

ROW 3 : 

HANGING LOOP  - this is optional, you can leave the loop off if you wish and just start with (chain 1; 1 dc) in the first stitch.

If you want a hanging loop, chain 20, then bend the chain and slip stitch into the first chain to form a loop.

Keeping the loop on your hook, go straight ahead and work 1 dc into the first htr stitch of row 2;

Work 1 dc into each stitch along the row.

When you reach the end and have made your last dc stitch, chain 20; bend the chain round and slip stitch into the first chain (shown by me needle in the above photo) to form the loop.

Fasten off and neatly darn in the tail ends, making a few extra stitches where the loops join the crochet to secure.

What do you think???? Easy eh?? Your bunting is now ready to hang if you wish to keep it plain, or you can stitch on some buttons for a lovely decorative finish......

♥ BUTTONS

For bunting with 15 triangles, you will need 16 buttons.

You can find little packs of buttons in my shop (HERE) 

You will need a darning needle with an eye big enough to thread the yarn, but small enough to pass through the holes in the button.

Using the same colour yarn you used for Row 2 of your connecting band, cut off 16 lengths approximately 12cm long. 

Thread one of the lengths onto your darning needle.

Position the first button at the start of the connecting band, and bring your needle up through the right hand hole (stick the needle through the crochet from back to front), taking care not to pull the yarn all the way through (leave a bit hanging at the back)

Now pass your needle down through the left hand hole, passing it through the crochet from front to back and pull taut. 

Turn the crochet over to the wrong side - you should have both ends of your sewing yarn dangling there now. All you need to do is tie a tight and secure knot......

.....and snip the ends off with scissors. Easy!! 

It doesn't take long to secure the buttons this way.....

....position the buttons at the point where two triangles join, and one at either end where the hanging loops are.

And there you have it - one very pretty string of crochet bunting ready to decorate your home or gift to someone special.....where will you hang yours?????

Here is a condensed version of the pattern for you - please feel free to copy/paste into a word doc and print if you wish.

♥ BUNTING TRIANGLES (MAKE 15) ♥

To begin

Chain 5, join with a sl st to make a ring.

ROUND 1

Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 3 tr’s into the ring, ch-3.

 (4 tr’s into the ring,  ch-3) twice. Sl-st into 3^rd ch of starting ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

ROUND 2

Join a new colour in any corner space. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 2 tr’s into same corner space.

*1 tr into each of the next 4 stitches, then in corner space work (3 tr’s ch-3, s tr’s)*

Repeat between ** once more.

1 tr into each of the next 4 stitches, then back in the first corner space work (3 tr’s ch-3) to complete the corner. Sl st into 3^rd ch of starting ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

ROUND 3

Join a new colour in any corner space. Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 2 tr’s into same corner space.

*1 tr into each of the next 10 stitches, then in corner space work (3 tr’s ch-3, s tr’s)*

Repeat between ** once more.

1 tr into each of the next  10 stitches, then back in the first corner space work (3 tr; ch-3) to complete the corner. Sl st into 3^rd chain of beginning ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

ROUND 4 (edging round)

Join a new colour in any corner space. Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc into same space.

1 dc into each of the next 16 stitches, then in corner space work 3 dc’s.

(Ch-3, skip next st, sl st in next st) 8 times. (Ch-3, sl st in corner sp) twice. Ch-3, sl st in next st.

(Ch-3, skip next st, sl st in next st) 7 times. Chain 3, then sl st into 2^nd chain of starting ch-2 to close round, fasten off.

You might want to block your triangles by pinning them out (right sides facing down on the ironing board) and lightly steaming them for a few seconds.

CONNECTING BAND

Lay out your bunting triangles, arranging them in the order you want to connect them.

ROW 1

NOTE: work in BACK LOOPS ONLY for this row only.

Working  from the right hand side of your bunting line, start in the middle stitch of the 3 corner dc’s you made in the previous round. Ch 1, then work 1 dc into BLO of same stitch. Work 1 dc into BLO of each of the stitches along the top of the first triangle. When you reach the end, move on to the next triangle, working 1 dc into each stitch across the top. Continue working one continuous row of dc stitches in BLO until all 15 bunting triangles have been connected. Fasten off. Do not turn the work..all connecting band rows are worked from the front/right side.

ROW 2

Working from the front/right hand side of your bunting line, join yarn in first dc stitch of previous row. Ch-2  (counts as 1 htr), then work 1 htr into each of the stitches along. Fasten off.

ROW 3 

(to  make a hanging loop) Make a slip stitch on your hook and ch 20, sl st into 1^st ch to form a loop. Keeping the loop on your hook and working from the front/right hand side of your bunting line, work 1 dc into each stitch across. Ch 20, then sl st into 1^st ch to form a hanging loop. Fasten off and neatly darn in all ends.

FINISHING (optional)

If you want to add a little extra prettiness, stitch some buttons along the connecting band, at the point where two triangles meet.

Here are some links that might be helpful ::

♥ Pink Bunting Pack (4 x 100g Stylecraft Special DK, plus 13 spotty pink buttons and printed pattern)

♥ Blue Bunting Pack (4 x 100g Stylecraft Special DK, plus 13 spotty blue buttons and printed pattern)

♥ Pastel buttons (16 x buttons - 8 pastel colours, 2 of each colour)

♥ Bright buttons (16 x buttons - 8 bright colours, 2 of each colour)

♥ Baby Bunting Ta-dah post (photos and general bunting chit chat!)

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

I hope you might feel inspired to crochet yourself a little bit of happy bunting to decorate your home.... as always, I am more than happy to provide my patterns and picture tutorials for free here on my blog. If you have used this pattern and would like to donate a few pennies it would be very much appreciated. Thank you so much for your support, and wishing you happy hooky times!

♥

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

 

 

 

Comments

[Alison W]

Lucy, I can't thank you enough. I've just sat and crocheted a baby bunting triangle from start to finish. Your photos were so helpful. I struggle with my confidence and very rarely finish anything as I'm slow to learn.

I only recently learned to crochet (you and I are the same age so I have some catching up to do 🤭). I now have a pattern and tutorial I can follow, which makes me happy. I feel a trip to my LYS 🧶 coming on.

Thank you for this and for all your lovely writings.

Take care.

[Deborah]

Hi Have you got the pattern for the jar covers on your mantelpiece. Thank you.

[Elaine Hindson]

Thanks Lucy for a brilliant pattern. I made bunting from my Woodland blanket leftovers to give as a present to my teacher colleague. It’s turned out really well.

[Barbara Strother]

Hi Lucy, I bought the pink baby hunting pack. Could I ask you to design a lavender/purple bunting?

I made the Mooreland blanket last January to keep my mind off losing my dear horse. Everyone loves it!

[Lyn Williams]

Thank you so much Lucy - I spotted your blog a few weeks ago when looking for something to make for my new grandson, Ethan. Fell in love with the bunting but am not a proficient crochetgirl!! So glad you were able to coincide making up the tutorial with the arrival of my blue kit - I am currently swimming in wool projects for the little boy - knitting an Aran jacket at mo - so bunting will be some light relief after that. I pace myself so that I can move between projects and get the grey cells jumping!!

I am in NZ so wool projects are ideal - too hot in the summer!! Enjoy your summer, it looks so lovely in the UK - I enjoy your blogs on Yorkshire/Lancashire, also Dorset as I migrated down there before emigrating to here in Napier.

With kind wishes and thanks again. LynW