Attic24 Mandala Wheel

I've designed this Mandala Wheel as part of a big creative project that I am co-ordinating for Yarndale, the amazing yarn festival I help to organise. But this is a really easy, fun little creative make and I hope you might be inspired to hook up a few to use as table mats or wall art to brighten up a small corner of your home.

I have found through experimenting that cotton is the best yarn to use for making mandalas. Cotton gives a beautiful stitch definition and creates a nice neat, firm fabric when worked up. The above mandala has been made from a smooth, matt cotton (Stylecraft Classique Cotton DK) worked on a 4mm hook, and the finished mandala measures 18cm across. Of course, you can use any yarn scraps that you happen to have in your stash (and these are terrific little stash-busters), but if you have a choice, then cotton works best.

Before I begin, a quick summary of the stitches. I'm writing this pattern using UK crochet terms as follows ::

sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

To begin, chain 4, then join with a slip stitch to form a ring. 

:: Round 1 :: Round 1 will be worked out of the ring.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr plus chain-1 space).

**Work 1 tr into the ring, ch 1**.

Repeat between ** 6 more times, so that you have 8 "spokes" altogether. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial chain-4 to join the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 2 :: work out of the ch-1 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), then 1 tr into same space, chain 2.

*Work 2 tr's into next space, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way around, ending in a ch-2.

Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial chain-3 to join the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 3 :: work out of the ch-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 3 more tr's into same space.

*work 4 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 4 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in next stitch.

*1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with 2dc in the last stitch. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. fasten off.

 

:: Round 5 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 space).

*Skip 1 stitch, 1 tr in next stitch, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-2. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. fasten off.

 

:: Round 6 :: work out of the ch-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 2 more tr's into same space.

*work 3 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 7 :: this is an optional decorative round of surface crochet, worked in the spaces between the tr's of the previous row.

Surface crochet (sometimes called a "surface chain") is a useful decorative technique, adding an extra bit of colour and pattern to a design. In this pattern, it is entirely optional and you can leave it out completely if you want to. If you want to give it a try, I'm going to show you how.

Begin by inserting your hook through the gap between the 1st and 2nd tr's of any treble-cluster made in previous round. Yarn over, and pull a loop of your new colour through to the front.

Now insert your hook into the next gap between the 2nd and 3rd tr's....

....yarn over, pull a loop up through the gap to the front, then straight through the loop already on your hook, just as if you were making a slip stitch.

Insert your hook through the next gap along, yarn over and pull a loop up through the gap to the front, then straight through the loop on your hook.

Repeat these surface "slip stitches", working your way around and inserting your hook into the gap between each treble of the previous row. You are making slip stitches which will begin to form a neat row of surface chains directly on top of the trebles you made in the previous round. Keep an eye on your tension (the more even your tension, the neater your chain-stitches will look), and don't pull each chain too tight.

There is a special technique for finishing off and making an invisible join. Complete your last sl-st in the last gap. Now snip your thread leaving a tail end for darning in, but instead of fastening off, simply pull your hook out/up to the right to extend the loop (as shown above). Extend it all the way until you pull the tail end completely through the last stitch. Watch your tension here....DO NOT PULL THE LAST STITCH TIGHT!!!!

Thread the tail end onto a darning needle, then pass the needle under both loops of the very first stitch you made (as above)

Pull the needle right through so that the yarn is pulled taught but not too tight. Now put your needle down through the last chain stitch you made (shown above) and pull the yarn right through to the reverse side. Again, watch your tension! You're aiming for neat and even, don't pull too tightly.

You shouldn't be able to see where your decorative chain started and ended,  the start/finish will be invisible (yippeee!!!) All you need to do is darn in your ends neatly on the reverse.

:: Round 8 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next stitch.

Work 1 dc into each stitch around. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 9 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc and chain-1 space).

*Skip one stitch, 1 dc in next stitch, chain 1*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-1. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 10 :: work out of the chain-1 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 dc and chain-2 space).

*1 dc in next ch-1 space, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-2. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-4 to close the round. Fasten off.

Thought it might be helpful to give you a close-up visual of the last few rounds :)

:: Round 11 :: work out of the chain-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 2 more tr's into same space.

*work 3 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 12 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next stitch.

Work 1 dc into each stitch around. We're going to use the "invisible finish" to close this final round neatly, just as we did for the surface crochet in round 7. After you've made you last dc, snip the thread leaving a tail end for darning in, then pull your hook out/up to the right to extend the loop (as shown above). Extend it all the way until you pull the tail end completely through the last stitch. Remember to watch your tension here and don't be tempted to pull the last stitch tight.

Thread the tail end onto a darning needle, then pass the needle under both loops of the very first stitch you made (as above, it's the top of the ch-2 you made to start the round)

Now insert your needle into the top of the last stitch you made in this round and pull the yarn gently down and out at the back of the work. Keep the tension of the yarn even so that you create a neat loop/stitch. It should close the round without any obvious join, clever eh?!

Er..........that's it........Ta-dah!

This mandala wheel should sit nice and flat, but it will definitely benefit from a very light steam press on the reverse side with a medium/hot iron. Remember that if you are using acrylic yarn, the iron MUST NOT TOUCH THE CROCHET! The steam alone will be enough to beautifully press/block your mandala, no need to press the iron onto the crochet at all.

These colourful wheels look wonderful pinned onto a plain wall....

....or pop it onto your table and use as a pretty mat under a small jug of flowers. Or maybe you might feel inspired to carry on improvising, building up more simple rounds of stitches until your wheel is big enough to fit a small cushion?!

Now what are you waiting for?????????????? Get into yer stash and start whirling those creative wheels!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NB : WaRnInG :: Mandala-making is seriously addictive and can lead to attacks of Madalitis. It is very contagious and not easily cured. Attic24 will not be held responsible for any family disagreements/missed appointments/spontaneous yarn purchases/sleep deprivation that may occur as a direct result of Mandalitis. You have been warned ;)

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ps here is a slightly condensed version of the pattern for you to copy/paste/print......

ATTIC24 MANDALA WHEEL

To begin, chain 4, then join with a slip stitch to form a ring. 

:: Round 1 :: Round 1 will be worked out of the ring.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr plus chain-1 space).

**Work 1 tr into the ring, ch 1**.

Repeat between ** 6 more times, so that you have 8 "spokes" altogether. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial chain-4 to join the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 2 :: work out of the ch-1 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), then 1 tr into same space, chain 2.

*Work 2 tr's into next space, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way around, ending in a ch-2.

Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial chain-3 to join the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 3 :: work out of the ch-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 3 more tr's into same space.

*work 4 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 4 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in next stitch.

*1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with 2dc in the last stitch. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 5 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 space).

*Skip 1 stitch, 1 tr in next stitch, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-2. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 6 :: work out of the ch-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 2 more tr's into same space.

*work 3 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 7 :: this is an optional decorative round of surface crochet, worked in the spaces between the tr's of the previous row.

Begin by inserting your hook through the gap between the 1st and 2nd tr's of any treble-cluster made in previous round. Yarn over, and pull a loop of your new colour through to the front.

Now insert your hook into the next gap between the 2nd and 3rd tr's, yarn over, pull a loop up through the gap to the front, then straight through the loop already on your hook, just as if you were making a slip stitch. Insert your hook through the next gap along, yarn over and pull a loop up through the gap to the front, then straight through the loop on your hook.

Repeat these surface "slip stitches", working your way around and inserting your hook into the gap between each treble of the previous row. You are making slip stitches which will begin to form a neat row of surface chains directly on top of the trebles you made in the previous round. Keep an eye on your tension (the more even your tension, the neater your chain-stitches will look), and don't pull each chain too tight.

There is a special technique for finishing off and making an invisible join. Complete your last sl-st in the last gap. Now snip your thread leaving a tail end for darning in, but instead of fastening off, simply pull your hook out/up to the right to extend the loop. Extend it all the way until you pull the tail end completely through the last stitch. Watch your tension here....DO NOT PULL THE LAST STITCH TIGHT!!!!  Thread the tail end onto a darning needle, then pass the needle under both loops of the very first stitch you made. Pull the needle right through so that the yarn is pulled taught but not too tight. Now put your needle down through the last chain stitch you made and pull the yarn right through to the reverse side. Again, watch your tension, you're aiming for neat and even, don't pull too tightly. Darn the end securely on the reverse side.

 

:: Round 8 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next stitch.

Work 1 dc into each stitch around. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 9 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc and chain-1 space).

*Skip one stitch, 1 dc in next stitch, chain 1*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-1. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 10 :: work out of the chain-1 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 dc and chain-2 space).

*1 dc in next ch-1 space, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-2. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-4 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 11 :: work out of the chain-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 2 more tr's into same space.

*work 3 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 12 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next stitch.

Work 1 dc into each stitch around. We're going to use the "invisible finish" to close this final round neatly, just as we did for the surface crochet in round 7. After you've made you last dc, snip the thread leaving a tail end for darning in, then pull your hook out/up to the right to extend the loop. Extend it all the way until you pull the tail end completely through the last stitch. Remember to watch your tension here and don't be tempted to pull the last stitch tight.

Thread the tail end onto a darning needle, then pass the needle under both loops of the very first stitch you made (as above, it's the top of the ch-2 you made to start the round). Now insert your needle into the top of the last stitch you made in this round and pull the yarn gently down and out at the back of the work. Keep the tension of the yarn even so that you create a neat loop/stitch. It should close the round without any obvious join, clever eh?!

Darn in all ends securely, threading them back and forth through the stitches on the reverse side so that they become invisible.

Comments

[Hilary]

How do folks fix these to a wooden wall....am on a narrowboat.

[I Trigonis]

Thank you for sharing your beautiful mandala with us. I'm so eager to start making it.

[Carolyn]

I love your choice of colors they're so bright & cheery. I just recently started yo crochet again and love your mandala pattern. I've been stuck on granny squares which I love, but this is a lovely alternative. Thank you.

[Yvonne!!!]

Are you still looking for people to send you Mandela's if so where are we suppose to send them to?

[viveka]

after 4 r 5 rounds flattness of mandala gets disturbed n it turns to cylindrical. how to avoid this problem. plz help me friends...

[Kat :)]

Hiya,

Just wanted to say thanks :) I started crochetting about 3 weeks ago and your blog has really helped me along! Just finished my mandala based off your pattern (I winged it a bit in the end to make it bigger)and it turned out so good I actually put it up in the hallway. :)
You can see what it looks like in this tweet: https://twitter.com/Kongering/status/490551645601017856

[Taciana Simmons]

I'm about to make the last row and I loooooove it.... As you said its addictive and I think I will have to make more than one....I will post mine in my blog tomorrow :) thanks for the absolutely gorgeous pattern :)

[Nadya]

Hi Lucy! I came to a good idea how to use your mandala. It became a decoration of a baby mobile base. You can see how it has turned out at http://stayinspring.blogspot.com/2014/07/enough-of-rain-please.html (scroll down there). Thank you for sharing this pattern!

[Aimee & Kira's Kustom Kreations]

Hi Lucy!
We have just included you gorgeous work in our Mandala Madness pattern round-up! Beautiful work!
http://akkustomkreations.blogspot.com.au/2014/06/we-are-joining-mandala-madness.html

[Tina B]

Yes, I am hooked....my Mandala will be posted tomorrow, it is drying now as I get the envelope ready! Thanks for the inspiration!!!

[Cherie Chudyk]

Just completed my first mandala, thanks so much for sharing the pattern, it'll be in the post to you very soon. Now just got to try all different colour combinations, what fun, love it! X

[Anne Burniston]

First Mandala wheel completed. Perfect, due to fabulous tutorial! Gigantic thank you! Will send it on to you. X

[Heather]

Thank you for inspiring me to crochet again after many years abstinence! Mandala on its way x

[Mel Bridge]

Hello Lucy! :) I am pretty new to crocheting but taught my two daughters (9 and 7) to do the basic stitch I knew yesterday. They are hooked and asked me for another pattern. I panicked slightly! I've always followed your patterns but being a busy mum I haven't bothered to sit and follow your tutorials. I wish I had sooner! My daughters and I sat together, laptop on my knee, they were either side of me and we copied your mandela design! We are on row 4 and they are so excited, they've gone out to play and have taken it out with them to teach their firends. They are all sat in the den doing it :) I've put it in my blog for today if you get a chance to have a look www.bridgesabridged.blogspot.com Thanks very much for the inspiration and the wonderful tutorial xx

[Carol Ann Copp]

Totally hooked!! Completed first Mandela - such fun. Love love love .....

[llittlegirl86]

You're a real artist! Your works are impressive. I'd like to make a granny crochet square blanket but I can't find the instructions. Did you write them somewhere on your site? And what size of crochet do you use?

[Janice]

You make it sound so do-able, I'm going to try! Thank you!

[patti]

Lucy, you will have two mandalas coming from Phoenix, AZ. My friend and I will crochet away while we we attend the Arizona Diamondbacks Baseball game. It should be fun - it's "Elvis" night!

[Samantha Macdonald]

Fabulous!!! Just tried this, but went a bit wavy on round 8. Need to sort out the tension next time. This is the first crochet pattern I have ever managed to read so THANK YOU!!

[Lis Harvey]

Did Round 8 in my next mandala (!) deliberately making it looser and it seems to be a lot better.... :)

[Lis Harvey]

I'm wondering if there is a mistake in round 8 - it seems to be too tight?

[Pnina Gantz]

I love it and i will try to do it pnina

[Phoebe Stevens]

I've been trying and trying to make this, but mine doesn't sit flat. It just starts bending up after the 5th row! It ends up looking like a bowl! I'm using a size 4 hook, but I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I'm fairly new at crochet so any tips would be appreciated. I really want to make one of these! Can someone please help? my email is phoebe.irene.stevens@gmail.com if anyone has any tips. This pattern is so gorgeous!

[Carrie]

I love the pattern, however I'm having a massive problem with crocheting these flat - they keep ending up bowl-shaped. Any advice?
Thanks.

[Kate Maguire]

Just wanted to thank you for your wonderful blog. You and Heather at little tin bird are my favourite blogs-I am currently at home recovering from breast cancer and both of you have cheered me up with your sunny outlook on life and the wonderful insights into your creative lives. I have always been a knitter but seeing the gorgeous things you create have been inspired to teach myself to crochet and I have finally cracked it! Only on granny squares and stripes but might give the mandala a whirl. Thanks once again. Kate. X :0)