Attic24 Mandala Wheel

I've designed this Mandala Wheel as part of a big creative project that I am co-ordinating for Yarndale, the amazing yarn festival I help to organise. But this is a really easy, fun little creative make and I hope you might be inspired to hook up a few to use as table mats or wall art to brighten up a small corner of your home.

I have found through experimenting that cotton is the best yarn to use for making mandalas. Cotton gives a beautiful stitch definition and creates a nice neat, firm fabric when worked up. The above mandala has been made from a smooth, matt cotton (Stylecraft Classique Cotton DK) worked on a 4mm hook, and the finished mandala measures 18cm across. Of course, you can use any yarn scraps that you happen to have in your stash (and these are terrific little stash-busters), but if you have a choice, then cotton works best.

Before I begin, a quick summary of the stitches. I'm writing this pattern using UK crochet terms as follows ::

sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.

dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)

tr [treble] :: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops on hook (two loops left on hook), yarn over and pull through remaining two loops (note :: this is equivalent to the US dc stitch)

To begin, chain 4, then join with a slip stitch to form a ring. 

:: Round 1 :: Round 1 will be worked out of the ring.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr plus chain-1 space).

**Work 1 tr into the ring, ch 1**.

Repeat between ** 6 more times, so that you have 8 "spokes" altogether. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial chain-4 to join the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 2 :: work out of the ch-1 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), then 1 tr into same space, chain 2.

*Work 2 tr's into next space, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way around, ending in a ch-2.

Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial chain-3 to join the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 3 :: work out of the ch-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 3 more tr's into same space.

*work 4 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 4 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in next stitch.

*1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with 2dc in the last stitch. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. fasten off.

 

:: Round 5 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 space).

*Skip 1 stitch, 1 tr in next stitch, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-2. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. fasten off.

 

:: Round 6 :: work out of the ch-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 2 more tr's into same space.

*work 3 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 7 :: this is an optional decorative round of surface crochet, worked in the spaces between the tr's of the previous row.

Surface crochet (sometimes called a "surface chain") is a useful decorative technique, adding an extra bit of colour and pattern to a design. In this pattern, it is entirely optional and you can leave it out completely if you want to. If you want to give it a try, I'm going to show you how.

Begin by inserting your hook through the gap between the 1st and 2nd tr's of any treble-cluster made in previous round. Yarn over, and pull a loop of your new colour through to the front.

Now insert your hook into the next gap between the 2nd and 3rd tr's....

....yarn over, pull a loop up through the gap to the front, then straight through the loop already on your hook, just as if you were making a slip stitch.

Insert your hook through the next gap along, yarn over and pull a loop up through the gap to the front, then straight through the loop on your hook.

Repeat these surface "slip stitches", working your way around and inserting your hook into the gap between each treble of the previous row. You are making slip stitches which will begin to form a neat row of surface chains directly on top of the trebles you made in the previous round. Keep an eye on your tension (the more even your tension, the neater your chain-stitches will look), and don't pull each chain too tight.

There is a special technique for finishing off and making an invisible join. Complete your last sl-st in the last gap. Now snip your thread leaving a tail end for darning in, but instead of fastening off, simply pull your hook out/up to the right to extend the loop (as shown above). Extend it all the way until you pull the tail end completely through the last stitch. Watch your tension here....DO NOT PULL THE LAST STITCH TIGHT!!!!

Thread the tail end onto a darning needle, then pass the needle under both loops of the very first stitch you made (as above)

Pull the needle right through so that the yarn is pulled taught but not too tight. Now put your needle down through the last chain stitch you made (shown above) and pull the yarn right through to the reverse side. Again, watch your tension! You're aiming for neat and even, don't pull too tightly.

You shouldn't be able to see where your decorative chain started and ended,  the start/finish will be invisible (yippeee!!!) All you need to do is darn in your ends neatly on the reverse.

:: Round 8 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next stitch.

Work 1 dc into each stitch around. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 9 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc and chain-1 space).

*Skip one stitch, 1 dc in next stitch, chain 1*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-1. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 10 :: work out of the chain-1 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 dc and chain-2 space).

*1 dc in next ch-1 space, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-2. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-4 to close the round. Fasten off.

Thought it might be helpful to give you a close-up visual of the last few rounds :)

:: Round 11 :: work out of the chain-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 2 more tr's into same space.

*work 3 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

:: Round 12 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next stitch.

Work 1 dc into each stitch around. We're going to use the "invisible finish" to close this final round neatly, just as we did for the surface crochet in round 7. After you've made you last dc, snip the thread leaving a tail end for darning in, then pull your hook out/up to the right to extend the loop (as shown above). Extend it all the way until you pull the tail end completely through the last stitch. Remember to watch your tension here and don't be tempted to pull the last stitch tight.

Thread the tail end onto a darning needle, then pass the needle under both loops of the very first stitch you made (as above, it's the top of the ch-2 you made to start the round)

Now insert your needle into the top of the last stitch you made in this round and pull the yarn gently down and out at the back of the work. Keep the tension of the yarn even so that you create a neat loop/stitch. It should close the round without any obvious join, clever eh?!

Er..........that's it........Ta-dah!

This mandala wheel should sit nice and flat, but it will definitely benefit from a very light steam press on the reverse side with a medium/hot iron. Remember that if you are using acrylic yarn, the iron MUST NOT TOUCH THE CROCHET! The steam alone will be enough to beautifully press/block your mandala, no need to press the iron onto the crochet at all.

These colourful wheels look wonderful pinned onto a plain wall....

....or pop it onto your table and use as a pretty mat under a small jug of flowers. Or maybe you might feel inspired to carry on improvising, building up more simple rounds of stitches until your wheel is big enough to fit a small cushion?!

Now what are you waiting for?????????????? Get into yer stash and start whirling those creative wheels!!!!!!!!!!!!!

NB : WaRnInG :: Mandala-making is seriously addictive and can lead to attacks of Madalitis. It is very contagious and not easily cured. Attic24 will not be held responsible for any family disagreements/missed appointments/spontaneous yarn purchases/sleep deprivation that may occur as a direct result of Mandalitis. You have been warned ;)

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ps here is a slightly condensed version of the pattern for you to copy/paste/print......

ATTIC24 MANDALA WHEEL

To begin, chain 4, then join with a slip stitch to form a ring. 

:: Round 1 :: Round 1 will be worked out of the ring.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 tr plus chain-1 space).

**Work 1 tr into the ring, ch 1**.

Repeat between ** 6 more times, so that you have 8 "spokes" altogether. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial chain-4 to join the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 2 :: work out of the ch-1 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr), then 1 tr into same space, chain 2.

*Work 2 tr's into next space, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way around, ending in a ch-2.

Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial chain-3 to join the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 3 :: work out of the ch-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 3 more tr's into same space.

*work 4 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 4 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in next stitch.

*1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with 2dc in the last stitch. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 5 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 5 (counts as 1 tr, plus ch-2 space).

*Skip 1 stitch, 1 tr in next stitch, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-2. Slip stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 6 :: work out of the ch-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any ch-2 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 2 more tr's into same space.

*work 3 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 7 :: this is an optional decorative round of surface crochet, worked in the spaces between the tr's of the previous row.

Begin by inserting your hook through the gap between the 1st and 2nd tr's of any treble-cluster made in previous round. Yarn over, and pull a loop of your new colour through to the front.

Now insert your hook into the next gap between the 2nd and 3rd tr's, yarn over, pull a loop up through the gap to the front, then straight through the loop already on your hook, just as if you were making a slip stitch. Insert your hook through the next gap along, yarn over and pull a loop up through the gap to the front, then straight through the loop on your hook.

Repeat these surface "slip stitches", working your way around and inserting your hook into the gap between each treble of the previous row. You are making slip stitches which will begin to form a neat row of surface chains directly on top of the trebles you made in the previous round. Keep an eye on your tension (the more even your tension, the neater your chain-stitches will look), and don't pull each chain too tight.

There is a special technique for finishing off and making an invisible join. Complete your last sl-st in the last gap. Now snip your thread leaving a tail end for darning in, but instead of fastening off, simply pull your hook out/up to the right to extend the loop. Extend it all the way until you pull the tail end completely through the last stitch. Watch your tension here....DO NOT PULL THE LAST STITCH TIGHT!!!!  Thread the tail end onto a darning needle, then pass the needle under both loops of the very first stitch you made. Pull the needle right through so that the yarn is pulled taught but not too tight. Now put your needle down through the last chain stitch you made and pull the yarn right through to the reverse side. Again, watch your tension, you're aiming for neat and even, don't pull too tightly. Darn the end securely on the reverse side.

 

:: Round 8 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next stitch.

Work 1 dc into each stitch around. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 9 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc and chain-1 space).

*Skip one stitch, 1 dc in next stitch, chain 1*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-1. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-2 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 10 :: work out of the chain-1 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 4 (counts as 1 dc and chain-2 space).

*1 dc in next ch-1 space, chain 2*

Repeat between ** all the way round, ending with a ch-2. Slip stitch into 2nd chain of initial ch-4 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 11 :: work out of the chain-2 spaces of the previous round.

Insert hook into any chain-1 space and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 3 (counts as 1 tr) then work 2 more tr's into same space.

*work 3 tr's into next space*

Repeat between ** all the way round.

Slip Stitch into 3rd chain of initial ch-3 to close the round. Fasten off.

 

:: Round 12 :: work out of the stitches for this round.

Insert hook into any stitch and pull through a loop of new colour.

Chain 2 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc in next stitch.

Work 1 dc into each stitch around. We're going to use the "invisible finish" to close this final round neatly, just as we did for the surface crochet in round 7. After you've made you last dc, snip the thread leaving a tail end for darning in, then pull your hook out/up to the right to extend the loop. Extend it all the way until you pull the tail end completely through the last stitch. Remember to watch your tension here and don't be tempted to pull the last stitch tight.

Thread the tail end onto a darning needle, then pass the needle under both loops of the very first stitch you made (as above, it's the top of the ch-2 you made to start the round). Now insert your needle into the top of the last stitch you made in this round and pull the yarn gently down and out at the back of the work. Keep the tension of the yarn even so that you create a neat loop/stitch. It should close the round without any obvious join, clever eh?!

Darn in all ends securely, threading them back and forth through the stitches on the reverse side so that they become invisible.

Comments

[Peggy Traeg]

Thank you for your pattens

[Joyce Bihary]

I love the many color changes your work is and wonder if you have a simple easy technique of tying in the new color and crocheting on?
Would love any tips and just want to say I love your blog and projects!!
Joyce Bihary

[Ania]

Hi Lucy. Love your mandala wheel. I want to make a bigger one, can you advice me how to do it please? Much love

[Rosemary Dargan]

Hi Lucy. I have completed 12 mandalas now. I started off with a metal 4mm hook and my mandalas finished at around 18cm along, which is what they should be. Then I changed to a 4mm half rubber, half metal hook and the mandalas around 21-22cm wide.I'm still following the pattern correctly. I have downsized to a 3.5mm hook and am still coming up with 21-22cm. I don't know what's wrong. But I'll persevere. They're looking great. Now all I have to do is to work out how to put them up on my wall (oh, and darn in the ends as well!). Thanks.

[Rosemary Dargan]

Hi Lucy. I have made 10 mandalas and I’d like to put them on my lounge room wall. Can you please tell me how I do this? They are not done with a hoop. Do I glue the back of them? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Rosie from Melbourne.

[Roni]

Hi, Just wanted to let you know that this pattern and your photos are being used in an ebook that's being sold on Amazon.

The pattern has been poorly reworded and carries the name Mandala Wheel, no reference to you as the designer.

This is the link to the book: https://www.amazon.com/Crochet-Mandala-17-Amazing-Projects-ebook/dp/B01N6RH7RF/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

If this was published with your permission please just delete my post.

[Vicky]

Your mandala is how big after complete?

[Gayle Hunt]

Just love these, have done a couple and I am literally hooked, in more ways than one. I have tried to make them larger however the edges get wavier if I just repeat and I had hoped there may be a pattern. I have undone the extra rows, and could play around some, but hoping it has already been answered.
Thank you so much.

[Claudia Smith]

Hi Lucy, I just wanted to say how much fun I am having making these mandalas. Have you ever thought of putting them together to make a blanket?? I would love to figure this out if anybody has found a way would you please share it. Thank you and keep on making magic with your beautiful patterns.

[Vangie]

Hi. Thank you for your tutorial. BTW do you have a pattern for a bigger mandala like 24"? I need one to use on a wall.
Thanks!

[Sue Phillips]

Hi Lucy! Love your tutorials, how would you make it bigger .say for a cushion cover. X

[Heather Anderson]

Thank you I have made five of these now, two were for a wheelchair which looked so cool. The first one I followed your pattern, now I just go with the flow & make them up as I go. I love your page. Greetings from Christchurch, New Zealand

[Sue]

Hi - I love these (and everything else on your site!) and have made LOADS of them. They're going to be used for a one-off particular purpose, but after that I'd like to turn them into squares and make them into a big snuggly blanket. I just wondered if you have a how-to guide already worked out for that? My brain will find this a difficult task! Thank you!

[Janet]

Thank you for the beautiful pattern! Your posts are always so inspiring!
Just going to start this lovely one and am wondering how do you or anyone pick the colours to use? they are all so different yet go together beautiful!

[Samera]

Thank you! Such clear instructions, my first time following a pattern and it came out so beautiful. x

[Jane Craig]

Help! I have an acute case of Mandalitis! Is the only known cure to continue crocheting until one's hands drop off? Seriously Lucy, I simply adore this pattern. I've just finished number 1 and intend to keep going with different colourways until I have a set of 6 to be used as tablemats. Thank you for the wonderful and colourful inspiration your blog provides. I only started crocheting in September 2015 and am thrilled I found your blog via the Wool Warehouse website. Please keep up the good work in 2016.

[Meghan]

Hi! This is so beautiful, I am loving making it! Would anyone be able to help me get row 10 figured out? The pattern is amazing and super clear so far, but I'm having troubles wrapping my head around just that row for some reason!

[Anna Riley]

Absolutely one of the best tutorials on the web.I made one and will be making many more.
Thank you for sharing.

[Catherine]

This is bloomin' great for using up odd bits of yarn :) Love your blog - it always lifts my spirits. Please do a "Yarndale" show in the South one day.....not necessarily London....maybe Oxford or Bath??? You could re-name it YarnSpa!!

[Yola Bergh]

Doyou have a tutorial for a half hexagon?

[amanda b]

I just finished my first mandala! Thank you for the easy to follow instructions. Wish I knew how to post a pic :)

[Rosie Barnfield]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152916882642039&set=ms.c.eJwzNDA0NbI0NLOwMDIzMTIwttQzRBKxMEcTsTDDUGOKJmJsYIEpgmaOsaEhSAQAOOAZSQ~-~-.bps.a.10152873150097039.1073741950.554127038&type=1&theater

Thank you for this - I kept going and made a spare wheel cover for my campervan! It has received many admiring glances. Rosie

[kimmi]

Hi Lucy,
I have been reading your blog for a while now and love all the wonderful items that you make. Being fairly newish to crochet I have picked up lots of tips and inspiration along the way, so thank you very much for sharing. I am also curious to know whether you have a copyright on your patterns that you share on your blog, especially the mandala wheel ? I have made few of these, slightly adapted them by adding beads, ribbons etc and gifted them to my friends, but have been asked if I could make some to sell ? Not sure what your thoughts are on this hence my question,and I hope you don't mind me asking ? Best Wishes Kimmi

[Penny Cross]

I want to make a really big mandala to fix round a hoola hoop. Not sure how to continue after row 12 so that it stays flat.

[Lorraine Cooper]

I love the beauty and complexity of your work, I am a 70s hippie chic so I am addicted to colour but love the monotone versions too. Thank you sounds very lame when you put so much work and love in to,each pattern. But thank you.