If you've been visiting with me for any length of time, you will no doubt be very familiar with my love of the sea and all things coastal. I grew up on the south west coast of Dorset and ever since I left home in my late teenage years and moved to the north of the country, I've really missed being by the sea. I think this feeling has actually intensified as I've gotten older, and at times the call of the coast positively bellows at full volume.
North Yorkshire has some fantastic coastline which I'd say is roughly 90 miles away from where I live, making it just a weeny bit too far for a quick day trip. So of course I frequently attempt to engineer short breaks by the sea whenever I think I can make it work for us as a family - we made it to the coast for the new year, and again in February - and sometimes I'm lucky enough to go away with friends. I also try and visit Dorset to stay with my Dad when I can, but I've never ventured to the coast to holiday completely by myself. That is until last month - oh yes indeedy!!
I can't tell you how strongly I felt the need to get myself to the sea, it was like the most insane itch that I absolutely had to give a good scratchin'! I think it was fuelled by a strong desire for breathing space, for peace, and for something of a personal reset of sorts, a need to simply spend some long hours quietly by myself with my own thoughts. I had a chat with J about how I was feeling, and he told me to just book something and take myself off for a few days - honestly, you should have seen how fast I acted on that, I had something nailed down and paid for within the hour haha! It was all very spontaneous I guess, I booked it on the Sunday and set off two days later, staying Tuesday to Thursday in early July.
As is usual for me I travelled by train, and it felt really exciting to be setting off on a little mini solo adventure with just a few things packed into a rucksack.
And this is where I ended up after three hours of gentle jigging along the tracks - one of my all time favourite seaside destinations : Saltburn-by-the-Sea. I wish I'd taken a photo of the little train station in Saltburn to show you, it's ever so cute. There are only two platforms at the end of a short branch line and it's right in the middle of the small town centre. You literally step off the platform, out onto the street and a short walk later you're gazing at a sea view.
↑↑ This was where I called home for two nights, a small but perfectly formed little house that has been very beautifully renovated and decorated. I'll show you a bit more of the house in a while and show you the stunning views, it really is one of the loveliest holiday rentals I've ever stayed in. I found it online at the start of the year and could not get it out of my mind, it was love at first sight.
It was quite the experience arriving all by myself and settling in, and the first thing I did was make a trip to the local supermarket to buy some essential groceries for my short stay. I took a photo of my shopping because I was chatting with J about it at the time, and I thought you might like to see......
....there you go! Halloumi (which I sliced and pan fried), ham, cherry tomatoes and salty snacks for my dinner, with yoghurt, grapes and bananas to snack on. Dark chocolate and slices of cake to take care of any sweet cravings, with coffee and a mini bottle of prosecco to drink. This kept me going (more or less) for two days, although I did buy a few extra items on my second day. I ate breakfast out at a café on my first morning but other than that I had all my meals at the house, sitting on the little outside terrace at the front with a glorious sea view.
When I arrived in Saltburn it was around 3pm on a bright and breezy afternoon, and once the grocery shopping was taken care of I couldn't wait to get down to the beach.
The house where I stayed had easy access down the cliffs to sea level via various stepped pathways (see here to get an idea). Of course it's easy-peasy going down and you arrive on the sands with a spring in your step....
....and the wide open beach spread out to explore.
The hike back up again isn't quite so springy and leaves your legs feeling a weeny bit on the wobbly side. During the few days when I was staying in Saltburn, the amazing water powered lift wasn't in action but when it's running it provides a really amazing alternative to the hard slog of the steps.
The views from the top promenade are stunning though, and there are loads of benches to gently slump on while you recover your breathing and regain use of your legs.
This elevated promenade is beautifully designed and well kept, and in July the beds were absolutely bursting with flowers. I remember being utterly charmed by this part of the town when we visited for the first time back in 2010. We were staying nearby in our caravan and I really fell in love with Saltburn back then and have been drawn to it ever since.
I mean, any town with giant ammonites set into the pavement is going to get my vote.
The sea views and fresh air are quite intoxicating (in a good way, a very good way) and I found myself breathing deeply and really taking in the scent of the place. At this time of year it smells of sundried grasses, sweet scented flowers and the salty tang of seaweed and is a little bit heavenly if you ask me.
It's six o'clock now, and I'm back at the house having a bite to eat and a few glasses of chilled fizz. The front garden is decked out with built in seating, providing an amazing place to relax and enjoy a drink with a sea view. Cheers!
It's a bit later now and I've made myself a milky coffee and crossed over the road to sit on the bench there. It's a great spot for people watching and taking in the sun as it descends down towards the horizon. I'm feeling beautifully relaxed and a little weary after the excitements of the day, but I decide that I'll find the energy to walk down to the beach a bit later to watch the sun set....
....I mean, how could I let this ↑↑ slip by?? It's around 9:20pm in the above photo and there are only a few souls on the beach at that time.
Isn't it glorious? I experienced a moment on the beach there of absolute profound gratitude for this life of mine, and for the fact that I was standing there all alone with such an insanely beautiful view to enjoy. How very, very lucky I am.
9.45pm now and the sun has slipped quietly beyond the horizon. Time to face the steps again and climb back up to the house to fall into bed. What a day.
Good morning! I'm sat in bed drinking a hot cup of tea and looking out at the grey of a sky which tells me rain might be on its way. Can you imagine how ridiculously happy I was with this view from my bed in the morning? Isn't it fabulous? Here, let me show you the bed (as it looked when I first arrived), so you can fully appreciate the luxury I was enjoying.....
.....oooooooo, isn't it something?? And to think I had that whoooooole big bed ALL TO MYSELF!!!!! How incredibly indulgent to have all. That. SpAcE.
I took my time getting up and getting ready for the day, because after all there was only me and myself to please. I had no plans at all, preferring to see how I felt from hour to hour and deciding on the spur of the moment how to fill the day. First up, the shoreline was calling, so down to the beach I went.....
....to walk along the sands and breathe in that gorgeous salty morning air. The tide was high at this time of day so I crunched over the pebbles up by the sea wall, admiring the colourful beach huts.
Time to climb back up those steps and go for a wander around the town....
....oh, look!! Just look at those flowers!
This old church was completely surrounded on all sides by the most glorious, exuberant planting of Hollyhocks. So, so pretty!
I later learnt that the church isn't in fact a church any more, but home to a community centre and small theatre. Well whatever goes on within those old brick walls, the flowers really did have the wow factor, they were an absolute delight.
I ended up in a small deli in the town for a late breakfast of buttered toast, bacon and eggs, sat at a little wooden table in the window watching the locals coming and going. It's a unique experience being away from home by yourself, choosing where to go, what to eat, and how long to take over each thing you decide to do. I found my pace was deliciously slow and I really enjoyed just sitting in various places (Saltburn has a great many benches, and I absolutely LoVe a bit of bench sitting), or slowly pottering around observing all the little details of the town.
Saltburn is a great place to take in the wide skies too, and you can really see the weather playing out along the coastline as you walk.
I have to be honest with you and tell you that my breakfast and coffee was only just about OK, and not somewhere I would especially recommend. So once I'd finished up I found my feet taking me back down to the beach where I knew for a fact that good coffee could be found. I walked slowly down through the Valley Gardens (I forgot to take photos, but you can see a bit of what it's like here) - it's an interesting mixture of woodland, formal gardens, riverside, playground and park all leading down to the sea. Camfields is down at the very bottom of the gardens where the river flows out to the sea, and is the place to go for great takeout coffee. I really enjoyed sipping as I strolled along the beach....
...parking my butt down on the pebbles with my back leaning against the sea wall. As you can see, the rain did indeed arrive but it was only a very light summer shower, a few minutes of drip-drops landing and then it was gone as quickly as it came.
Eventually I arrived back at the house and it was just after midday. Hmmm....what do I feel like doing with my afternoon? Yes, of course I had packed my crochet, because in early July I was properly falling madly in love with this blanket after being very unsure of it for a few months.
I took the above photo so you can see a little more of the house - it's small but oh-so-lovely and completely open plan downstairs with a beautiful clear light streaming in. What you can't see is to the right of the picture out of view there are huge bi-fold doors leading onto the front decking, so I could sit and crochet with the doors open and the sea breeze wafting in.
I spent the afternoon listening to music and crocheting - I landed on a Spotify soundtrack called "Easy 70's" or something like that and it was absolutely perfect for the occasion. Kind of mellow and nostalgic and summertime-ish. I did manage to get a lot of crochet completed and only stopped when I realised my hands were feeling a bit stiff and achey. I was stunned to discover it was almost 5 o'clock, my goodness, how speedy the time passes when you are living your best life!
I noticed that as the afternoon had passed the grey skies had given way to blues, so on the spur of the moment I decided to take a quick walk down on the beach, my third visit of the day.
Bloomin' heck, it was sooooooo windy!! The tide was at its lowest point so there was a huge expanse of beach exposed and the wind was whipping it up into a sand storm! It was absolutely mesmerising to watch but not at all pleasant to be in, I felt like any exposed skin was being exfoliated and my trainers were literally filling up with sand as I walked.
So I quite quickly came up off the beach and walked back to the house via a wooded lane where I picked a few wild flowers from the verges.
It's six o'clock now and I'm suddenly very hungry so I made myself a simple meal to enjoy - pan fried halloumi, chorizo slices, tomatoes and grapes, with some smoky paprika crisps and a gorgeous chilled drink of Sauvignon Blanc. I have a soft spot for those dinky little miniature bottles of wine you can buy in the supermarket, they feel like a treat and are just right for enjoying a solo drink with dinner.
Here I am look, back to my hooky as the evening rolls in, loving the hell out of my yarny squares and the sea views right outside the door. Happy, happy me.
It's 8.30pm now, but the sky is too cloudy for a good sunset which is a shame. Shall I go for a walk anyways? Oh, go on then, it would be a shame to be inside when there are such beautiful coastal views to be had.
I decided not to head down to the beach this time, but instead stayed up on the top promenade, strolling and bench sitting, breathing in those glorious sea views.
I'm tucked up in bed by 9.45 with a mug of tea and a slice of cake (who knew eating cake in bed would feel so naughty, but SO good?!), and look it's still light outside. What a wonderful, wonderful day I've had.
I slept for a solid nine hours that night (I'd actually done a lot of walking during the full day I spent in Saltburn, over 25,000 steps) and woke up feeling happy, refreshed and energised. I decided to get busy packing up my things and tidying up the house so that I could head out for one last walk and a coffee before needing to leave and catch my train home.
One final stroll along the top promenade to drink in those views.
The famous water powered lift was getting ready to open later that morning and I was sorry that I wouldn't be there to take a ride. One last walk down the steps......
.....down to Camfields to get my morning coffee. I can highly recommend the Illy coffee, it really hits the spot first thing in the morning.
With my coffee in hand I took a slow stroll along the whole length of the pier....
....stopping to sit on a bench to drink my coffee and watch the waves roll in under my feet. I'm pretty certain that bench-sitting is now my new best thing, in fact I think I could train to become a professional bencher because I do seem to have a talent for it.
I wonder how many benches there are in Saltburn? Can you see them all on the pier in the above photo? I can tell you there are loooooads of benches in Saltburn, benches with a plethora of differing views and vantage points.
Sigh....how I adore this place.
I've got a little bit of time before my train leaves so I can stroll on the beach for a while....
....and pop a pebble in my pocket to remind me of a very memorable trip.
It's hard to find the words to describe just how good this trip was for my soul, but hopefully through my photos you can get an impression of it. I think I've mentioned before how important it is for my wellbeing to carve out regular alone time to recalibrate and process my thoughts. Usually I am attempting to do this in small snatches of time during the course of a busy day spent at home with the family - short walks to the meadow, a solo takeout coffee by the canal perhaps. It never occurred to me that I could give myself permission to have an extended break away, and with J's blessing it was absolutely the greatest gift and a real privilege.
Time, breathing space, quiet, stillness. But also flying sparks of energy, inspiration and creativity, a huge recharge that I didn't know I needed quite so much. This solo trip gave me way more than I could have hoped, and I am so, so grateful for the whole experience.
There's just one niggling little problem now though........when do I get to do it all over again?!
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ps I would love to know in the comments whether you've ever taken a trip away all by yourself somewhere? If not, would you like to? Do tell me your thoughts! x
I am planning a trip to the beach for Christmas week. My husband is going to see his parents and I have no other obligations. My mother is in a care facility (dementia) and my presence will not be missed. So its off to the beach! We don't have trains in Alabama so it will be me and my Jeep hitting the road! I am looking forward to it. I have already started making a book stack and will be taking needlepoint of course!
Posted by: gina in alabama | August 15, 2022 at 09:05 PM
I’m lucky enough to have a husband who understands my need for headspace too. And lately, now we are almost 51 years wed, he has become a man who doesn’t like travel and realises I still need to go. I have been 4 times to India now, and am going again in January. Yay!
I too need to reset, and have stuff to look forward to. I love every bit of it…..the planning, the packing (7 kilos carry on only!), the company!
I go on textile discovery trips, and it is usually small groups of like-minded older ladies n a mini-bus. Wonderful!
Posted by: Linda | August 15, 2022 at 11:10 AM
Hi Lucy,
What a lovely photo journal of your time away. I know exactly how you feel about being by the seaside and seeing the ocean. I am now in my mid 60's and after spending my teen years on a clifftop overlooking the sea have always yearned to live close to the ocean. Finally last year I have a little cottage not quite by the sea but only 10 minutes away. I still feel a strange tug and yearning if I haven't seen the beach for a day or two. My Mum grew up in Devon and her time living in Herefordshire was difficult as it was to far from the sea. I think it is in our blood and definately calls to us and gives us a feeling of peace. I have never had time away on my own but think it is about time I tried it.
Posted by: Gaye Brodie | August 15, 2022 at 06:58 AM
What a fantastic trip, a beautiful house and a lovely spot. I also crave going somewhere and having space and time to myself. I would take my writing, but the rest of the trip would be similar to yours I think. Alas I haven't managed to do something like that yet. One day, definitely! In the meantime, I have enjoyed seeing your trip very much. CJ xx
Posted by: CJ | August 14, 2022 at 08:18 PM
I try and get away for a few days once a year. I live on a small dilapidated hobby farm that we have been slowly fixing up into our dream property. I also homeschool my 5 kids. So, from time to time, my introverted self just needs to get away and be alone and be away from chores and responsibilities and remodel messes! I do different things. I stayed in an airstream trailer and painted and crocheted one winter. I stayed in a barn loft and did homeschool plans and transcripts one summer. I have stayed at a garden resort and journaled over my birthday weekend in late Fall. I took an early spring vacation to the coast and hiked for several days. Honestly, I would love a few days get away every season and I live in just the perfect place to do so. Within a 3 hour radius of my rural farm setting, I can be at the coast, in the woods up in the mountains, in the high desert, or at an alpine lake. There are hikes and waterfalls, lakes, rivers, beaches, rock hunting, state parks, etc.. I wish I had more time to take advantage of it all!
Posted by: Emily | August 14, 2022 at 03:41 PM
I've really enjoyed seeing your photos, it's funny how a place looks different but the same as the year moves on, isn't it? I'm glad you had a lovely time :) xx
Posted by: Winwick Mum | August 14, 2022 at 02:26 PM
I have made 1 trip by myself. I went from Ft.Worth/Dallas area to Wyoming. I was going to meet my birth father for the 1st time. Saw a lot of deer, buffalo, horses (wild), antalope and elk. It was very strange not to have kids in the back seat arguing and fighting. But it was a wonderful trip. Linda
Posted by: Linda Spooner | August 14, 2022 at 07:46 AM
Well done, Lucy. Your beautiful words and pictures are an inspiration to us all. I used to visit Saltburn as a child and always enjoyed going there. Your post brought back happy memories for me. Thankyou so much Lucy. You are a real treasure.
Posted by: Peter Dennis | August 14, 2022 at 07:20 AM
I love this and definitely need a trip to Saltburn now! I spent two nights away from hubby and kids with my mom and sister. It had that same feeling of reckless indulgence and was incredibly good for the soul!
Posted by: Abigail @ rosy_hill | August 14, 2022 at 01:24 AM
This sounds like bliss to me. I have never gone on my own but at least once a year, my lovely sisters and I, will have a night or two away. Even though my children are now grown and there's just hubby and then, it's so good to just be Fiona and not wife, mum or daughter x
Posted by: Fiona | August 13, 2022 at 11:07 PM
This sounds like bliss to me. I have never gone on my own but at least once a year, my lovely sisters and I, will have a night or two away. Even though my children are now grown and there's just hubby and then, it's so good to just be Fiona and not wife, mum or daughter x
Posted by: Fiona | August 13, 2022 at 11:06 PM
I was born in Saltburn, Lucy, some 71 years ago. I went there just a few days ago with two of my grandchildren who enjoyed playing and being creative on the beach. I live in Darlington, so it's not too far for me to go back there. I have to say your photos are just astounding - the best I've ever seen of Saltburn - and I'm so glad you had a good stay there. I've been away on my own (but with my dog) the last four years staying near Oban in the west of Scotland self-catering, and just pleasing myself. I agree it is a wonderful thing to do and really re-charges the batteries!
Posted by: Sue Brown | August 13, 2022 at 07:58 PM
At nearly 72 I still go off and cycle camp on my own. Didn’t try it - have the confidence until I was nearly 60. 2 weeks ago I had a little trip in the Yorkshire dales cycling through Reeth, Redmire and Leyburn.
Posted by: Brenda Cupryna | August 13, 2022 at 04:16 PM
It sounds like you had a wonderful time, thank you for sharing! Makes me wish to visit Saltburn someday, it definitely goes on my to-go list. I have never been on a trip alone, but have thought about it. Maybe when my kids are older!
Posted by: Femke | August 13, 2022 at 02:40 PM
I loved this post! Such an energizing thoughtful post. Yes, I have taken a few special trips by myself. When I travelled to visit my parents in the UK I would often add a short solo trip for myself. When as a mature student I got a degree I took myself off to Greece to visit the museums and sites I had studied. I felt the need to see for myself what I had spent so much time studying. It was a gift to myself and Ive never regretted it. I went back a few years later to see some sites that had been closed on the first trip. I also went to Hadrians Wall for a few days. I don’t want to have regrets, so taking time for myself, not forgetting about me is important it nourishes me. I can relate, I miss the sea, there is something restorative about the sea. Loved this post.. Jean/ in Winnipeg
Posted by: Jean | August 13, 2022 at 02:39 PM
I often travel alone to The Moorcock Inn at Garsdale Head near Hawes. It’s a short walk from the train station at Garsdale. I have a few days walking and stay in their budget single room. £40 per night with a massive breakfast. I go via train from Skipton. It’s great, I love lone travel.
Posted by: Claire B | August 13, 2022 at 12:04 PM
I have never gone away on my own. I love the idea, but the is that niggling guilt about leaving my husband at home. (Not that he would mind) It's entirely an issue of my own making. I love your description of your views and your days and of course the photos. Unlike you I am craving line forests and streams and mountains unfortunately they are not to be had close to were I live in Southeast England and I don't want to go too far away. Your various blogs have given me a lot of good for thought over the last year or so I have been a subscriber. Thank you and also thank you for your wonderful crochet patterns, I don't do a lot of crochet, but just looking at all the wonderful colour combinations is a joy. All the best to you.
Posted by: Bärbel | August 13, 2022 at 11:16 AM
Wow, just lovely , and not a person in sight , my idea of wonderful.
Dorset is just too popular now , can only blame social media and film crews , movies etc . The beaches at lulworth etc used to be deserted during the autumn and winter, not anymore . Weymouth , etc just heave most of the time .
Near where you grew up they have just passed planning for 760 houses in an AONB, absolutely dire . I think Northumberland is looking very good from where I stand right now !
Anyway , good that you had such a great time and you must have a wonderful husband too, take care , and enjoy the north !
Posted by: Helen | August 13, 2022 at 10:03 AM
Oh dear Lucy, thank you so much for this wonderful post, I felt like i was right there with you. Everything from the music, wine the food was exactly how I would have done it. You have inspired me greatly and now I think I need to book a holiday all by myself too. thank you thank you x
Posted by: Judy | August 13, 2022 at 12:21 AM
Hi lucy
What a fab post. Ive had solo trips and definately will have more. I read a comment where someone mentioned the expense. Dont know how much your rental was but i always find really great deals cheaply x i always stay in little cottages as i have my little dog xx im lucky i live fairly near the coast at 22 miles just a short drive away x btw what happened to Connievan ?? I always wanted one after you posted about yours many years ago x Cannot wait for your new blankie and still love your blogg after all these years xx happiness and blessings lucy xxx
Posted by: Pippa moore | August 12, 2022 at 09:46 PM
Oh Lucy, I didn’t want your story to end!
I think it’s been one of the nicest blogs you’ve written..
The pictures, and your relating your stay in that charming little house..made me want to be in all that beauty..
Everything in one place..perfection itself!
It’s wonderful it did you the world of good..with all the memories tucked away …that is, until the time you are able to revisit..
Thank you for sharing this special time with us all…👏🌷💕
Posted by: Nora McGrann | August 12, 2022 at 06:55 PM
I have never been on a little holiday break on my own!Certainly days out though.Saltburn is somewhere I have never visited even though I have been to other parts of the yorkshire coast.
The funny thing is my grandmother had a boarding house in Saltburn for many years,one of the big houses on the front.It was requisitioned by the army in the second world war.
I now feel totally inspired for a jaunt of my own thankyou!
Posted by: Alison Barrow | August 12, 2022 at 01:56 PM
I spent my 55th birthday on my own in New Zealand on an amazing day trip where we had dolphins (including baby ones) playing round the boat. I spent 6 weeks travelling round both islands in a rented campervan - so many people were amazed I was travelling on my own, to which I usually replied "not alone, there's my wheelchair too".
I'd always wanted to go, I actually had some money and decided that I was going to just go and do it. The only really scary time was driving down to Milford Sound in a horrendous storm. Another campervan and I ended up travelling in convoy and as I pointed out as we booked into the campsite, at least I didn't have any one to have a matrimonial argument with over who's bright idea this had been! However it did mean the waterfalls the next day were spectacular. It was an amazing trip and I'm so glad I went.
Posted by: Dawn | August 12, 2022 at 10:32 AM
Love the sound of waves and fresh air at the seaside. Glad to hear you are refreshed from your mini break
Posted by: Abby | August 12, 2022 at 07:39 AM
Not exactly by myself but with my sister. We came to England in 2000 in part because that's where our father came from. And Saltburn was the last place he lived so we included it in our trip. I walked the same beaches as you and they are incredible, so much so I came again in 2019 and had to visit Saltburn again. We stayed at the Spa Hotel.The trip in 2000 I remember was like being on my own because I left little kids with their father and being able to choose what I wanted to eat and wear light colored clothes was such a treat. Enjoyed your pictures, brought back lots of memories.
Posted by: Nadine Nicholson | August 12, 2022 at 01:23 AM