New Year by the Sea

I've been thinking the past few days that it has seemed strange not preparing for a Friday blanket post, like there's been something missing from my week. The past six Fridays have been filled with such a lot of colour and coastal feel-good, and I've really enjoyed creating the weekly CAL instalments for you all. So I figured that if I'm not filling your screens with blankety stripes today, then perhaps you would like some coastal views instead? I've been meaning to share this little jolly with you for ages and now seems like just the right time to do it.  

At the very, very start of January, on the very first day of a brand new year, we left our little town and drove seventy five miles north east to one of my favourite coastal places : Saltburn-by-the-Sea. I'd discussed the idea with the family a few weeks before Christmas and we all agreed that it would be a lovely, gentle way to see in the New Year. I managed to find a very homely terraced house to rent through Airbnb for two nights, and the Big Teen agreed that he would happily stay home and take care of the kitty for us, so we were all set.

We arrived around lunchtime on New Year's day and I have to tell you this quiet little seaside town was absolutely heaving with people. So. Many. People! And dogs, and cars and hustle and bustle everywhere you cast your eyes, I've never seen it so busy, not even in peak summer holiday season. It was a little bit of a shock to be honest, but luckily we had arrived well prepared with a packed lunch in our bags and a familiar walk to do which quickly took us away from the crowds.

We've been visiting Saltburn  since 2010 when Little B was just a weeny baby, and we fell instantly in love with this charming, rather old fashioned seaside town. It's fascinating to read about the history of Saltburn which was established as a holiday resort in Victorian times specifically as a destination for "health, leisure and pleasure". I am totally onboard with the idea of leisure and pleasure seeking, and I think taking in the sea air for health benefits is absolutely spot on.

The walk we set out on was familiar and easy going, a steep climb at the start which took us up onto the clifftops to join the Cleveland Way. I really love the huge iron charm bracelet sculpture which stands about seven foot high on the edge of the cliff overlooking the north sea. There's a bench here which made for a lovely resting point for us to eat our lunch - winter picnics are just brilliant I think, although the Little People probably wouldn't agree with me. It was a bit on the chilly side.

You can see from the above photo how bloomin' glorious the weather was on New Years Day at the coast, we were so, so lucky and it really made me feel like we were beginning a brand new year in the best way possible.

It was around 3.30 in the afternoon when our walk brought us back down from the clifftops to sea level at Saltburn, and at the start of January the light was already beginning to fade.

We walked for a short way along this small stony beach....

...listening to the waves roll in and breathing in all that fresh salty sea air.

The holiday home that we rented was in the heart of Saltburn town, an old Victorian terraced house that's been in the same family for more than half a century. It had masses of character - huge rooms with old wooden floors and lots of vintage furniture.

It also had a huge collection of books and dvd's so there was quite a bit of film watching in the evenings which we enjoyed (although I did fall asleep on the sofa quite a lot). It was cold when we were there in January, but the house had the most fabulous radiators in every room - they were the huge cast iron Victorian style ones and my goodness they were efficient. The house was super-toasty warm and felt ever so homely, it reminded me a bit of the Youth Hostels we used to stay in when the Little People were small. Kind of old fashioned and a bit worn out but charming nevertheless.

The following day we set off on another walk which is a firm favourite of ours, although we realised that it's a walk J and I have done together many, many times over the years but never with the Little People. It's a circular ten mile route which begins and ends in Robin Hoods Bay, and as the weather was once again looking stunning I was really excited for a day of coastal walking.

This is a walk of two halves - the first five miles or so follow an old disused railway (called a cinder track) and it's pretty flat and easy going if a little muddy in places. The beginning part is quite enclosed with tall trees and steep banks on either side.... 

....but after a few miles it opens out and you begin to get tantalising glimpses of the sea.

The long distance coastal views are absolutely spectacular, especially on a gloriously clear-blue-sky day. We ate a picnic lunch with the above view, all four of us sat together on an old bench chatting and munching and viewing the view. It's the kind of thing that makes me so indescribably happy right into the depths of my soul - sunshine, fresh air and sea views, and a simple meal enjoyed with my family.

After our lunch stop, the footpath meandered right down to the cliff edge to join up with the Cleveland Way back to Robin Hoods Bay.

It's quite tough walking with some steep ups and downs in places, and on this day it was also incredibly muddy underfoot. It made the going slow and a bit arduous to be honest, but the constant sea views really did keep me feeling on top of the world.

I think it's safe to say we all felt very weary by the time we arrived back into Robin Hoods Bay. 

We decided to stroll down the steep hill into the heart of the village in search of a café where we could have coffee and cake, and honestly, the very thought of that refreshment kept my feet moving.

Robins Hoods Bay is such a charming little place and I've enjoyed it (and photographed it) on many, many occasions over the years.

The streets are narrow and atmospheric, the cottages leaning into each other as if they are tumbling down the hill towards the sea.

Unfortunately for us, this day was a national bank holiday in the UK and most of the shops and cafés were closed. Deep, deep, sad sigh. I was ridiculously disappointed, especially since we had arrived at the very bottom of the hill with the realisation that we simply had to turn around and walk aaaaaaaaaalllllll the way back up again. Without coffee! Or cake!! And my feet were ten-miles weary and oh, I did feel like having a very small but significant toddler tantrum at this point in time. 

The other three quarters of us were apparently fine about the sitch and it was only me having a melt down. So I pulled myself together and listened to J who was selling me the vision of a steaming hot cup of tea and some toasted crumpets back at our holiday home, with my feet up and a very warm cosy ambience to relax in. Sold, to the lady standing on the edge of reason.

Did I mention how cosy the house was, and how fabulous it felt to be back there after a day of muddy miles? And yes, I did indeed have my Harbour blanket with me, I never go away on holiday without at least one crochet blanket packed.

The next day was our final morning, so we spent some time tidying up and getting our bags all packed away in the car for the 10 o'clock exit deadline. We hadn't planned anything for the morning, thinking we would simply go for a wander and find somewhere to eat breakfast. Saltburn has some lovely woodland nestled along the steep banks of the narrow river valley, and although the paths were very muddy we enjoyed the stroll from the woods, through the valley gardens and down to the sea.

It was such a stunning morning without a single cloud in the sky - it's just after 10am in the above photo and we are on the seafront searching (once again) for coffee and some breakfast. Luckily there is a great little café right down on the front which sells Illy coffee (I am a big fan) and even better, they were doing a roaring trade in bacon and sausage breakfast rolls too. Yippeeee!!

We took our breakfast out onto the pier where we enjoyed a very, very windy time of it, my goodness it was bracing. But the coffee was superb, the expansive beachy views even more so. Happy, happy me.

Fully refuelled and full of energy, I desperately wanted to get down onto the beach and take myself to the water's edge. The tide was out and there was such a lot of breathing space, I couldn't wait to go and inhale it all.

Now here's a funny thing - all the men folk in my family really happen to dislike beaches and only set foot on them if absolutely necessary. My brother and my Dad are really not keen and neither are J or Little B, or my Big Teen Boy. So on this glorious sunny morning when the sea was calling my name, I could not persuade J or Little B to set foot on the sand, they just point blank refused. Luckily, I have Little Lady who is very much like me in so many ways and she was only too happy to be my sandy sidekick. J and Little B strolled slowly along the promenade, while Little Lady and I got swept along the sands by the gusty wild winds.....

....all the way to the waters edge.

It was so so so so beautiful, unbelievably so I think you'll agree. This is winter at it's absolute brilliant best - icy cold and fresh, and gloriously bright. I can't explain how happy I was in this moment, it was just the best feeling to be beside the sea drinking it all in.

Eventually it was time to leave, and after we'd reunited with the two sand-hating promenaders we made the slow, steep climb back up to the cliff top. Saltburn is a place of two halves - the lower half is down at sea level and is known as the old part of the town, and the upper half at the top of the cliff is where the houses, train station and shops are situated. There are various ways to get up and down between the two parts - there are steps (lots of them) as well as slightly easier to handle zig-zag pathways. And then there is the famous water powered cliff lift - sadly closed when we were there, but we have used it in the past. You can watch a little video about it on YouTube ((here)) - it's a very historic and well preserved bit of engineering.

You can probably tell that I have a real soft spot in my heart for Saltburn-by-the-Sea and I love spending time there. Its quirky charms and well preserved Victorian style really appeal to me, not to mention the fact that the waves here are legendary (it's a real surfer's destination these days, because of the aforementioned waves). It's only a small place (around six thousand residents) and has a wonderful down-to-earth feel about it - there is something very relaxing about the pace of life and the simplicity of what's on offer here that I love. Whenever we come to stay I always feel it doing me good, it brings me energy and peace and is a place that supercharges my inner battery.

We were away for exactly 50 hours, and it was everything that I'd hoped for when I booked the trip before Christmas. Time to rest and recharge, a change of scene, fresh air, scenic walking and top notch family time. And such a beautiful way to begin a new year too. 

Tilly missed us of course, and actually I was glad to be home in the end. Fifty hours away was just right.

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Comments

[Modern Panel]

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[sandwich panel]

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[Becky DuBose]

Loved the pictures and narration of your respite trip. I miss England and it's people.

[Ruth]

I love the idea of 50 hours away to see the New Year in. It was lovely to see your beautiful pictures.
I think you should talk to Yorkshire tourist board, you must gain them business from many wide flung areas.
I relate the busyness when you arrived.. our local beach at Mudeford is always heaving at Christmas and New Year, I always think it’s people making New Year resolutions to walk more!

[Kate McCurrach]

What a wonderful read Lucy. You've really made me want to visit again. It's been decades. Such glorious weather too and it's been lovely to gaze at those blue skies whilst the grey, stormy weather rages outside again.

[Winwick Mum]

I was right there with you, on that bright, cold, sandy beach. What lovely photos and what lovely weather! xx

[Deanna]

What lovely views, and such a nice refreshing bit away! I think I would like Saltburn very much. Thank you for sharing your holiday!

[Tammy]

I love your pictures! You make us readers feel like we are actually there - a mini vacation :)

[Susan]

I love Saltburn & have been on the lift from the beach to the top. Great! I need my seaside walks too, having grown up very, very near the coast in Sydney, though in summer I do find them very crowded, so hang out more for the cooler times when they are more deserted. I threw a mini tantrum a couple of days ago when the coffee machine in the cafe we'd gone to had broken down & being repaired & like you I really needed it after a walk.(giggle). Thanks for a great post, take care & hugs.

[Sara Jane Apple]

Oh Happy start to my day being carried off to your adventures by the sea. I am so fortunate to live by the Pacific Ocean and have seen orca whales twice recently. I lived inland growing up and this is a dream come true being close to the ocean living in wild nature. (Pacific Northwest Rainforest Canada). Thank you Lucy for your exuberant love of colour, character, crochet, crafting, coffee, calm, and caring! xox

[CathP]

Lucy, thank you so much for posting this. I live in Ontario, Canada but lived three miles from Saltburn before emigrating here in the early 1980's. I remember a post last year when you mentioned going to Saltburn and I have been longing to see these photos. I will definitely be in Saltburn on my next trip to UK as my sister has recently moved there.
I have not posted here before so just want to THANK you for sharing all your lovely photos of beach and country walks. The crochet blankets a wonderful too and I have made two now from your patterns.

[Marcia Love]

So appreciate your travelog. You are so lucky to have access to such a lovely place. I really appreciate your sharing.

[Deb]

Looks so very lovely. Can't imagine walking the ten miles.

[Carol Partridge]

Thank you so much for this post Lucy. I read it slowly and drank it all in. The photo's made me feel that I could almost hear the waves, Just what I needed on a drab Saturday morning, And as usual...written from the heart.

[Alison]

Oh gosh, we were in Saltburn on NY Day, wasn’t it busy! But wonderful as always 😀

[Patricia]

Thank you for this account of your mini break, the pictures helped me imagine I was there. Although NZ is very beautiful, there is nowhere like the homeland - looking forward to being able to visit again one day. In the meantime, please keep sharing.

[Jackie Farrow]

Lovely photos, makes me want that trip back to England so much. Our borders open beginning of March and I’m guessing there will be so many people flying from UK to Perth and Australians flying to UK. We are planning crossing fingers for Sept next year, let the rush die down. I’m so looking forward to be able to have walks along the sea front and in the lovely countryside, can’t wait.

Sounds like the men folk in your family would not like our beaches which is all sand, very hot sand at the moment what with our very hot temps. Maybe another one of our 40’s today.

[Miep]

What a lovely write up, and I do love your pictures. So nice to see different historic villages around the world.

[Bev]

Fabulous Lucy, your description had made me feel like I was along for the journey too. (and wishing I was - away from our summer heat and bushfires - two weeks ago it was 42 degrees celsius, and fires destroyed four houses and and a huge amount of trees paddocks, fences etc). I have seen parts of the Robin Hood Bay walks on TV, so I knew where you were. The sky looks amazing, blue and few clouds! Agree that it was a great way to start the New Year!
Thanks. Cheers Bev x

[Carol]

Saltburn and Robin Hood’s Bay, two beautiful places. We too spent New Year at the coast … Norfolk for us , also with plenty of blue skies and sunshine. It was a real treat. The last time we were in Saltburn the railway was out of action too but we did have fabulous fish and chips sat off the pier 😃

[Angela]

Thanks so much for sharing Lucy-your photos are wonderful.
It looked a perfect time & am sure it’s given you some forever special memories!

[Louise]

Hahaha! That paragraph about having a tantrum when you discovered the cafes were closed, I have totally been there! How dare they?! But there's nothing better than a coastal break. Everytime we go, we longingly look at real estate listing's in the area and sigh as year after year the prices steeply climb. Thanks for sharing your mini break! Xox

[CJ]

What a lovely trip, it looks like a beautiful corner of the world. Great idea to book an Airbnb for just a couple of nights as well. My middle boy doesn't like beaches with sand either, odd isn't it? There's a nice little Victorian seaside place near here too which is quite charming, lovely old pier, nice cafes and bookshops etc, I think you would approve! CJ xx

[Maryjane O’Malley]

Thanks for this lovely up close and friendly tour! My grands are from the UK and their Boston home often echoed the charm that your work and photos convey. Enjoy the spring days as they start to erupt!

[Linda from Boston]

Beautiful!!! I feel as though I just came back from a trip!!!