The first Monday in May is a national holiday for us here in the UK, making a 3-day weekend for many people as schools and work places generally close for the day. It's a lovely time of year as we are in full Springtime mode with deliciously long days and the beginnings of fresh greenery sprouting in the hedgerows and treetops. The weather doesn't always co-operate mind you, but somehow it doesn't manage to dampen the feeling of celebration.
Back in early April, I hatched a plan with my wonderful in-laws who live fairly close to us. It was a plan in which J and I would escape to the countryside for a much longed for mini break, proper exciting stuff for us I have to tell you. Now here's the thing - I absolutely love love love my role as Mum to my three Little People. But every so often it really is a great thing to hand the responsibilities of parenting over to someone else entirely and jaunt off for a short period of togetherness with the other half.
Do you know, when I sat and thought about it I realised that the last 2-nights-away we had together was a last minute jaunt to Amsterdam when I was 27 weeks preggers with baby number one. So that would have been the Summer of 2002 then, 13 years ago, holy-moly, I'd say we were really due this precious time away.
So with childcare arranged and consensus from the Mr, I booked us into a favourite little holiday hideaway up in Wensleydale which we had stayed in many years ago. Located in the picturesque village of Askrigg, it promised a weekend full of Good Things. A cosy nest, a comfy bed, great village pubs serving delicious fodder and the most fabulous walking country right on our doorstep. Wensleydale is extremely picturesque and also very watery - if you want to find spectacular waterfalls and rivers, this is the place to come.
Our very first walk was certainly a wet one alright. The weather was awful when we arrived in Wensleydale, with low-slung heavy cloud and a persistent light drizzle, the sort that my Mum always used to call "wet rain". But we were stupidly happy to be there, striding out in our old mismatched waterproofs, marvelling at the novelty of being able to walk and talk without the hindrance of offspring.
We walked from the gorgeous village of Hawes, across wet soggy fields to Hardraw Force which is apparently England's largest single-drop waterfall. It was very atmospheric, very noisy and extremely wet. We loved it. We perched on a wet rock and drank steaming coffee whilst admiring the watery scene and couldn't have been happier. I got to try out my new flask too, such a pretty little floral number purchased from the divine Girls Own Store in Bridport, but also to be found on Amazon {here
The beauty of the Yorkshire Dales is not diminished much by a spell of dire weather, and we had such a good time tramping up and down hills and over stiles and bridges. Everything looked lush and vibrant and the rain-soaked air and damp earth smelt wonderful.
We eventually arrived at our little cottage at 5pm, walking in to find the table laid for two with home made scones and jam and a bottle of white wine waiting in the fridge. This is Yorkshire hospitality at it's finest, and made such a lovely welcome for two wet, weary walkers.
I didn't take any photos of Gamekeepers Cottage, but you can see find a few on the website here. It's a wonderful, cosy, teeny-tiny little place perfect for couples, with one room (plus bathroom) downstairs and one large bedroom upstairs. You can sit in bed (with crochet to hand!) and look out the window onto a green field with sheep grazing. The peace and quiet of the place is incredible, it fills your ears with a comforting silence and makes you sleepy like you wouldn't believe. OK, so the local ale might have contributed to the sleepiness a little (great pubs in Askrigg, it would have been rude not to mingle with the locals).
Next morning we couldn't wait to get out into the countryside again, but needed some fuel first. So across the street we went to visit Askrigg Village Kitchen. What a gem of a place, we settled ourselves down in the very pretty tearoom and enjoyed some mighty fine bacon sarnies and frothy coffees before heading out for another wet walk. Yup, still raining...........
.......and still very watery around these parts! This is probably one of the most famous waterfalls in Yorkshire, Aysgarth Falls. Not just one waterfall in fact, but a whole flight of them (three I think), rushing and gushing down the valley over a series of spectacular limestone steps. The picture above is of the Upper Fall and due to all the rain, the volume of water was really huge and the noise was very noisy indeed.
The rain continued to fall steadily as we followed footpaths and admired the scenery....
....up hill and down dale and along some quiet country lanes. The Blackthorn hedges were looking very pretty...
....and even in the dripping wet they remained beautifully springlike.
The above picture was the view from our morning coffee stop, a (wet) wooden bench in the sleepy village of Castle Bolton where there is indeed a real, larger-than-life ancient castle looming up at the end of the village green.
This is Bolton Castle, an historical 14th century pile of stone. Parts of it were badly damaged in the English Civil War, but there are still some rooms intact and you can have a good old wander around in there if historic castles are your thing.
We carried on walking (and yes, it was still raining), past impossibly beautiful stone houses and productive looking farms, over fields and rushing streams.....
....this was actually described as a "small beck" in our walking book, but it was a bit more "raging torrent" on the day we crossed over it. I wish you could hear the sound of all this water, it's in my ears as I type, I can remember it so clearly. It was sooooo noisy!
Another lovely Wensleydale walk, I think our wet soggy boots walked six miles or so on that Sunday morning and it felt deliciously lovely to finally sink back into the warmth and comfort of the car. It was mid afternoon by this point, too soon to return to the cottage but our legs were also veeery tired. So we did what many others do in this part of the country and took ourselves off for a pleasure-drive.
Driving anywhere in the Yorkshire Dales involves hills, and in some places those hills are rather enormous. In fact, we were driving so high up that we were pretty much sitting inside the clouds as you can see. We were passing over the high hills that divide Wensleydale and Swaledale....
.....and the views were absolutely breathtaking. Then suddenly - NO RAIN!!!!!!!!!! Yipppeeeeeeeeeee!!! The rain stopped and bit by bit the clouds cleared........
.....oh those hills.......can you see the little winding road that we have driven along? We stopped the car up here and ate a late lunch (don't you just love a car picnic, in dubious weather conditions they are the bees knees).
We drove in a large loopy loop to Reeth and then back to Askrigg, just for the pleasure of passing from Wensleydale into Swaledale and then back into Wensleydale again. To view all those views and commit it to memory, this special time just the Two Of Us.
Back to Gamekeepers Cottage, a quick change of wet clothes and footwear, then straight back out the door to the local pub. We had gotten cold after spending so much time in the rain and were delighted to find the big old range in the pub was fully stoked with a glowing fire and it was incredibly warm and cosy.
I don't often drink ale, but when I am out with J I do like to join him for a pint or two of the local brew. It slipped down surprisingly easily as we warmed ourselves by the fire and talked about all sorts of things. We went on to enjoy a superb evening meal in another of the village pubs before wandering back to the cottage and falling tired and happy into bed.
Our last morning dawned grey and overcast but finally the rain had stopped. We had promised the Little People that we would be back in time for lunch, but figured if we got going early enough we could manage one last tramp through Wensleydale before driving back home. An early bedtime and sound nights sleep meant that we were up and eating breakfast at 6am, and out starting our walk at 7am. It was wonderfully tranquil as we walked beside the River Ure, and gradually as the early morning progressed we noticed a slight lift in the weather....
....it was still very grey and stormy in the skies, but every so often there would be a brief break in the clouds and the sun would come streaming down to illuminate the landscape. Oh that sunshine, it was sooooo good to feel it and see it!
We climbed some steep hills on this morning, striding out over a high ridge which took in the ruins of an ancient chapel....
....and gave us sweeping views over the landscape.
The light was magical and literally changed minute by minute. It was mesmerising to watch the play of sunshine and shadows across the lush green fields as we walked.
We finished our five mile walk at 9.30am, and true to our promise we landed back amongst our happy Little Peeps in good time for us all to eat lunch together. Turns out they had enjoyed rather a good time staying with their doting grandparents, and I can guess that they were more than a little bit spoilt. As for J and I, well we enjoyed rather a good time too, I came home with aching legs and a happy glow.
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EDIT TO ADD :: for those who have asked, the walking book we've used for 20+ years is this one :: Pathfinder Yorkshire Dales (Pathfinder Guides)
I've just found this marvellous post again, I read it with pleasure last year as well. Being a Hungarian teacher of English I have enjoyed not only the amazing pics but Lucy's wonderful day-by-day diary,her unique, living style finding 'useful'phrases to study. Anyway, I love England.
Posted by: Éva Géczi | May 13, 2016 at 01:06 PM
I so enjoy being an armchair tourist following your wonderfully descriptive commentary and photos! We have had our ups and downs with Spring weather in the Midwest States as well. Yesterday was sunny, windy and 74 F. This morning it was 47 F.
Posted by: Libby Parker | May 19, 2015 at 06:21 PM
Thank you for letting us readers in on your get-a-way. I have never seen a real castle or the lovely pastures like you have in your area. I feel I got a chance to see it better than having it presented in a brochure or travel book. You live in a very pretty place. It keeps my dreams alive in having a chance to travel to England someday.
Posted by: Cat Smolka | May 19, 2015 at 01:41 AM
Landscape,I mean.
Posted by: Delfina | May 18, 2015 at 11:08 PM
Such lovely photos, what a beautifull landskape.
Posted by: Delfina | May 18, 2015 at 11:05 PM
I had to come back and gaze at the pics on this post again. You are an amazing photographer. The last pic with the odd looking tree near the road is amazing. The other pics that have thick gray skies. Utterly wonderful pics. Makes me want to be there walking along the paths and roads. Please do write up the way you join the squares with the long tails that you leave on each one. I would love to know please!! I can't wait to see the harmony pack and blanket. This is all so exciting. xxxxxxxxx
Posted by: Robin Summers | May 18, 2015 at 10:36 PM
Oh how beautiful Lucy.
I always love your descriptions and photos of the walks you take, it is always a wonderful escape.
Could you share the title of the walking book you mentioned.
Thank you
Posted by: Michele | May 14, 2015 at 10:26 PM
Sounds like a perfect weekend! :-)
Posted by: Corinna Mazzotta | May 14, 2015 at 09:53 PM
I found your blog while looking for a flower pattern to adorn a baby sweater. I'm at work so really shouldn't be doing this but I got distracted so here I am. I just loved what you said about picnics in cars. My sweetie and I were driving home from a party in the Bronx one night and we saw the cutest little pizza place. Of course, he had to stop. He came back out with a delicious pie and we had a little picnic at a bus stop on a rainy night. It was so romantic and sweet and your blog brought it all right back to me.
Posted by: Karen | May 14, 2015 at 09:33 PM
Hardraw Force looks very much like an area near me called Silver Falls State Park, which offers views of some of the many waterfalls in Oregon.
I've heard that England is similar to Oregon in many ways, the rain, the green (that we have due to the rain), and some of the scenery. I'd love to visit some day.
Thank you for the photo trek. :-)
Posted by: Carole | May 14, 2015 at 08:37 PM
Love, Love, Love, your blog! Your photos are absolutely divine, and I have really enjoyed your handiwork. You have really inspired me to be more creative with color. So happy I found your blog!! I have long dreamt of a trip to your neck of the world - to walk - and view where my ancestors walked.
Posted by: Sherri Jarrett | May 14, 2015 at 08:24 PM
bonjour je viens de créer mon blog et je propose un mini swap je serai heureuse que tu y participes ou que tu fasses passer l'info.
merci
http://hobbyandcie.blogspot.fr/
Posted by: danel | May 14, 2015 at 05:53 PM
Beautiful trip Lucy - I love England - though I am very far away! North Carolina - it is 85 here already and just about as green as your parts - we have had a lot of rain and even a tropical storm last week. I want to come and visit the Yorkshire Dales - never been to that part of England - except to pass through by train to Scotland. Thank you so much for giving us such beautiful visits via the internet - and Keep em coming!!
Posted by: Denise Hall | May 14, 2015 at 04:09 PM
Lucy, what a lovely trip! We Americans aren't used to being able to tromp through fields like that! What joy - and what great sights you can see! What is the name of your walking book? Would love to have it for our next trip to England. . . .someday.
Posted by: Mama O | May 14, 2015 at 02:58 PM
A smile for the day. ; )
https://www.flickr.com/photos/craftygal/17634802725/in/dateposted-public/
Posted by: Angela-Southern USA | May 14, 2015 at 02:24 PM
I love reading your stories. It is just like being there. You should publish a book!
Posted by: cathy | May 14, 2015 at 11:49 AM
Beautiful photos from such lovely places. My husband & I have only just recently started having time away by ourselves. I think it is good to make time to be a couple again. xx
Posted by: Pj | May 14, 2015 at 11:27 AM
Oh Lucy!! What glorious photos and simply a beautiful, beautiful country. I am very envious! Lol!! I love the country...live in a city! :) Lol!!
Thank you for sharing and I am happy you two had a grand time together!
Posted by: Sandra Campbell | May 14, 2015 at 05:03 AM
Couldn't believe your post today Lucy. My husband and came back yesterday from four days in our caravan at leyburn. We stayed at lower Wensleydale caravan club site and had a wonderful long weekend visiting all the places you did. My photos look very similar to yours. I adore the Dales and would rather visit there than anywhere else.
I'm a Yorkshire girl though and Gods own country has special significance for me. Thank you for sharing xxx
Posted by: Lisa Lancaster | May 13, 2015 at 11:39 PM
Beautiful! I just love reading your posts. They make me want to slow down and breathe in the fresh air.
Posted by: Jenny B. | May 13, 2015 at 10:50 PM
What a marvelous post! I enjoyed immensely following your steps through these precious landscapes. I have never been to England (it's one of my dreams!), so it was really a gift to read your post and hear the water, see the green, the light, the shadows... I almost felt like I was there. Thank you!
Posted by: Sofia | May 13, 2015 at 10:36 PM
Really lovely post today - all my family is from Yorkshire but I am from Manchester living in London - Yorkshire is my ancestral home! So beautiful thank you for writing about it - I can hear the water!!
Posted by: Gill | May 13, 2015 at 09:05 PM
Lucy, Thank you for the tour, as a visitor to England this is what I missed. Your pictures are frame worthy, your words brilliant. Please keep sharing! I am a self addicted Lucy blanket lover, have so enjoyed (and bought more than enough Stylecraft) your blog and patterns. Thank you again!
Posted by: Patricia | May 13, 2015 at 08:41 PM
So pleased you enjoyed your weekend Luce :) I know how much you were both looking forward to it. Hard to believe that 2 weeks before this we were out in that amazing sunshine! Still, the Dales have their own special climate don't they. At least you have happy memories, soggy ones yes but happy nonetheless. See you tomorrow xx
Posted by: Sarah | May 13, 2015 at 08:04 PM
I enjoyed your post a lot today, Lucie! Especially the picture of the stormy Sky with the sunlit shed, beautiful! And i am so curious how you are getting on with your granny blanket... I keep checking your website for new posts several times a day :-))
Posted by: Danielle | May 13, 2015 at 08:00 PM