I've been looking through this collection of photographs and remembering our brief visit to Whitstable, wondering why it already feels like a distant memory when it was only one week ago? Maybe it was because our visit there was so short (only half a day), that the essence of the place didn't have chance to seep in and take hold.
I've wanted to visit Whitstable for a good many years, inspired in part by the knowledge of Frank and images of this incredible property. Sigh. Did you sigh over those images too? I think maybe they were responsible for the crushing disappointment I felt when we first arrived in Whitstable. We hopped off the bus and despite the rain, made our way straight to the harbour. I felt sure it would be amazingly picturesque, a gorgeous fishing harbour bustling with brightly coloured boats and some wonderful little seafood cafes, shops and dinky little fisherman's cottages. My friends, it was so not that. It just wasn't. It was bleak and industrial and a tad depressing. I stood there in the rain and said "is this it? Surely not????"
But yes, this is indeed Whitstable. Lovely little painted beach huts and a bloomin great big tarmac plant. I just couldn't believe how far it was from the image in my imagination. Where were the cafes and the cute little fishermen's cottages?
Granted, the weather didn't help, it was pretty bleak I have to say. Cold, windy and wet. When we were really starting to get soaked, we took refuge in a wooden bus stop shelter where we just sat and wondered what on earth we were doing. The Little People were very unhappy, and even some emergency jam sandwiches and chocolate didn't cheer them up much. So it was decided that we should leave the miserable beach and harbour behind and head into town to find a cafe.
It started to feel just a smidge better then.
The rain eased up a bit, and I started to really look at my surroundings. I began to detect a little bit of quirkiness creeping in, and I began to like what I was seeing.
This is the very bottom end of Harbour Street, and is one of the nicest shopping streets I have ever visited. It just ooozed charm and promised to deliver plenty of happy visual surprises. But first.....we all very much needed a hot drink and some shelter from the cold.
When we arrived on the bus, we had spotted the back of Elliotts Coffee Shop, and we all said what a cute little place it looked to be. In reality, it was bigger than it looked, the front entrance on Harbour Street being a very handsome double fronted affair.
Inside it was gorgeous. Lots of natural wood and light, the delicious aroma of fresh coffee. Scrubbed wooden tables, painted chairs, newspapers, quiet chatter. And a fabulous view of Frank (which sadly I didn't get chance to go in after all that wishing)
J and I had super cappuccinos with toasted teacakes, and the Little People all had hot chocolates....
....and Halloween cup cakes. It was declared by each of us to be Really Very Great Indeed and did wonders to restore our flagging spirits.
So back out into the damp day we went, determined to explore this crazy, quirky little town and enjoy the very best it had to offer.
The variety of beautiful old buildings in this one street was remarkable. I fell in love with the Tourist Information which was set back slightly from the street. Oh, how cute!
And of course Wheelers Oyster Bar which was another place I had heard about, another Whitstable image that I had retained in my memory banks.
The shops were beautiful. Individual, quirky and beautiful. I loved the mix of them, the clothes shops and the gift shops, the children's shops and the big boys shops. High street shops mixed with lovely little one-offs, galleries, cafes, bakeries and butchers.
I especially enjoyed the fruit and veg shops (there were at least two), they are such a rarity these days and the overflowing baskets of produce made me so surprisingly happy!
After we'd had our fill of the shops, we branched off down a little side street to take another look at the sea. Little B spotted this shell and pebble mosaic and spent ages running his little fingers all over the shells.
I spotted this star fish a little bit further along, I do really appreciate little details like this when I visit a place. I began to like Whitstable more and more. The more I saw, the more I softened a little towards it.
As you can see, the weather was still pretty pants. There was a persistent light drizzly rain and the light was very dull indeed. But we made the best of it, pulled up hoods and strode out along the blustery beach.
The beach I found frustrating as it was very hard to walk along due to being segmented at regular intervals by wooden breakwaters. So you had to keep walking up and down as well as along, sort of a zigzaggy thing, and there was never a great view of the beach.
However, I do happen to like greenery on the beach. I like when grass and plants sort of creep out over the pebbles.
I kept trying to imagine what the beach would feel like in warm, bright, sunshiny weather. Would it be busy? Would it be full of families picnicking, sunbathing and swimming? It had such a deserted feel to it that it was impossible to imagine it any other way.
I quite enjoy out-of-season seaside visits though (remember our trip to Whitby in February, when it snowed?!), and once we got into the beach thing it felt really good. Pootling along, discovering how different the pebbles are to the ones we have in Dorset, searching for treasure.
We found the best type of shell-treasure :: Oyster shells. It's the first time I've ever been on an oyster shell beach and I was thrilled with my finds. They are big (as big as my palm) and beautifully tactile. Love love love them.
As we wandered along, we discovered some beautiful houses. Oh, so, so beautiful. Dreamy.
I especially loved this terrace (I am very fond of terraced houses), it was enchanting with it's bright paint work and assortment of boats out front.
I have to confess to you that I stroked this upturned boat. Ran my hands over it's paintwork and quietly worshipped the colour. Boaty seawashed turquoise, my favourite, most favourite colour.
How amazing would it be to actually live here? To have a balcony and an uninterrupted sea view, it's the stuff of my dreams.
A crab and fish encrusted bay window, turquoise paintwork and pretty swirly-wirly railings. How completely fabulous. I swooned a bit.
As you would expect from a colour junkie like me, I am constantly in tune with colour in the world around me. It really is constant. Everywhere I walk, I instinctively search it out, it's like I can't help myself, can't switch off from seeing things in terms of colour, not ever. I've been like this for as long as I can remember, right back into my childhood I've always felt very affected by colours. Red against blue is one of my favourite combos, it makes my heart flip to see it.
After the beach, we began to wander slowly back along the little streets, marvelling at the cute fisherman's cottages (yes, we found some!), the old sail lofts and the amazingly narrow little alleyways running to and fro between the buildings.
I just love visiting somewhere new and studying the houses, it fascinates me.
I love rows of houses. I love looking at front doors, windows, chimney pots, flower pots, paintwork. I just love the visual comfort it gives me, a sort of cosy domestic feel-good I suppose.
So. We ended up liking Whitstable after an unpromising start. More than anything, it provided me with a much needed sea-fix and gave us some really sound family time together. Because we did a lot of walking that day, there was also a lot of conversation, and it made me realise that aside from mealtimes, it's not that often that we all five of us get to chat together as a family. It felt good.
The bus ride back to Canterbury was also unexpectedly good. We chose to travel the long way back via Herne Bay, sitting on the top deck of the bus and taking in the panoramic views. One Little Boy was very weary after our seaside adventure and nodded his sleepy head against my shoulder as we bumped along the roads. He was thrilled with the £1 windmill I bought him in a little toy shop. Such innocent, simple enjoyment from something that spins in the wind.
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Glad you started to fall in love with Whitstable after a poor start. The thing about the harbour is most people, residents and natives, want it to stay as a working harbour, we like it like that, shops and cafes on that site is exactly what we dont want. Anyway come in the summer when there is a cafe open on the harbour and the beach is much more inviting.
Posted by: eric | January 24, 2017 at 11:10 AM
My name is June and I was born and raised in Whitstable. I married an American and now divorced. Unfortunately, I lost contact with all from Whitstable and my parents who always lived in Albert st are not alive today, so I no longer visit.
I am SOOOO homesick and only have the pictures on the computer to remind me. You know, I love the gloomy, rainy, cold weather. It is cosy. I have been in the states for more than 30 years and live in HOT California. I long for rain, wind, storms. I long for beautiful Whitstable. I am sure it has changed and I would be a stranger there now.
Thank you for posting these pictures.
June
Posted by: June | August 11, 2014 at 02:41 AM
I grew up in Whitstable and it's okay but it's so false now. Over the last couple of decades it's change from a town where everybody knew one another, to a place too trendy and expensive I've moved North. Sorry Whitstable.
Posted by: Sarah | November 18, 2013 at 10:36 AM
Your bus ride brought you through my home town Herne Bay, Whitstable is lovely when the sun is shining and there are some lovely pubs on the beach that are wonderful to sit and watch the sunset over the sea on a summers evening. Hope you began to see some of Whitstables charm before you left x
Posted by: Charlotte Burch | November 17, 2013 at 08:13 AM
PLEASE visit Herne Bay! It's only a few miles from Whitstable but the beach front is SOOOO much nicer! We have a little pier with beach huts converted into little shops, and a bandstand and a little harbour which you can walk along!
whitstable and Herne Bay sea fronts blend from one to another and you can walk the whole way! Past playgrounds and coffee shops, along to the Downs and up to Reculver towers if you felt like it which is a wonderful tumble down ruin.
Whitstable IS lovely particularly on a sunny day, but the less well known neighbours have SO much to enchant you with, if you like the seaside our little town is well worth a visit!!!
Posted by: Rhona | November 15, 2013 at 10:02 PM
So glad you ended up enjoying whitstable. It's a beautiful place in the summer, hot full of prople and fisherman and candy and oysters on the beach. You really shouldnt judge it by the winter months but im glad you had fun all the same. Its my local beach you see and we spend most of our summers there, gosh i even got engaged there 5 years ago in the Hotel Continental on the seafront (in one of your pics) Here's a link to my last visit to Whitstable on my blog..... http://sandyfloorboards.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/whitsta-bubble.html
Posted by: Gemma | November 13, 2013 at 02:06 PM
Like Clare, I live in Deal and I've visited Whitstable a few times, usually in better weather than you had, but I'm glad you eventually enjoyed your visit. Perhaps another time, you'll come and visit us here in Deal! :)
Posted by: Belinda | November 12, 2013 at 09:04 PM
Absolutely love your snaps, Lucy! Even the gloomiest of them, with drizzle of the rain made me feel cozy:) Like your writing always does. Wonderful trip! I love small cafes too :)
Posted by: Anna | November 12, 2013 at 04:25 AM
Can I suggest Rye as a beautiful place to visit...very quaint and full of history :)
Posted by: Sarah W | November 11, 2013 at 09:26 PM
I shared this post with my hub who is originally from the Walmer Deal area of Kent. He said the last time he took the bus from Whistable to Canterbury it was 1963 and he spent the evening in The Seven Stars playing bar billiards.
Next time you are 'down south' go to Deal. It is my absolute favorite town and the conservation area houses are to die for. The seafront is pretty good, too. In fact, I wish I was there right now.
Posted by: Candice from Georgetown ON Canada | November 10, 2013 at 11:57 PM
...I live just up the road from Whitstable and shop there often, and i have to say your photos of the town are just wondeful, you captured everything about whitstable beautifully, it made me look at this town in a differant way, its good to see things from another persons perspective and to think how often i have sat in that cafe opposite 'Frank' knowing that its probably the best cafe for miles and now sharing that with another who lives such a long way away.....thank you my dear, for sharing those photos, i know my next trip there will been seen with better eyes...
Pixie x the crafte nook blogspot
Posted by: pixie kaye | November 10, 2013 at 01:43 PM
It does look lovely Lucy. And I'm thinking it felt much better after cake and hot chocolate and a lick of cream. Love the picture of your little man and his windmill. My littlest would be utterly thrilled with such a thing as well. How adorable they are when they are small and happy. Hope you all have a good Sunday.
Posted by: CJ | November 09, 2013 at 08:28 PM
Love your blog so much. The crochet tutorials, the pictures, the stories. Thank you for keeping it up!
Posted by: Nichole | November 09, 2013 at 08:19 PM
I really recommend you visit the East Neuk of Fife in Scotland, there are lots of beautiful little fishing villages such as Crail, Pittenweem and Anstruther to name a few, I just know you would love them.
Posted by: Caroline Smith | November 09, 2013 at 12:52 PM
Thank you so much for all your lovely pictures of Whitstable. I am from Belgium but 7 years ago Me and my kids were on holiday in Whitstable and we loved it there.
I didn't take as many photo's in those days as I do now so I only have a few from the beach but nothing from the town itself so I was very happy to see your pictures here :)
Greetz
An
Posted by: An Valenteyn | November 09, 2013 at 08:54 AM
Love those cute little multi-coloured houses - something the British seaside towns seem to do so well! You were just across the water from where I grew up - Southend on Sea! Definitely not quite as quaint as Whitstable!
Posted by: Katie | November 08, 2013 at 10:16 PM
Do go again! in the sunshine next time when the colours of the terraced houses with their fish and crab encrusted bay windows sing against the blue skies and the smell of the sea and the cries of the seagulls make for a perfect day
Clarabeaux
Posted by: clarabeaux | November 08, 2013 at 09:32 PM
Love your pictures of Whitstable,I went there at the end of the summer and found a little sewing shop which sold gorgeous buttons.
Sarah
Posted by: sarah | November 08, 2013 at 08:14 PM
What a lovely post Lucy, thank you, really enjoyed it. I have felt like this about places sometimes and ended up falling in love with them - others are the opposite - it is so strange. I loved the house you mentioned, boy would I love one like that - in my dreams. Have a wonderful weekend Lucy, always love to read your blog.
Big hug
Dorothy
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Posted by: Dorothy Griffiths | November 08, 2013 at 07:52 PM
loved your afternoon jaunt .... you are remarkable in your thoughts and views on anything and everything you see xx love Joy xx
Posted by: Joy | November 08, 2013 at 07:43 PM
Glad you could find some good things in a dreary, damp day. Some sugar and sweets always helps!
Posted by: Katie | November 08, 2013 at 05:40 PM
Well at least you loved it in the end. I have never been to that part of the country. I loved the pictures of THAT house! Would love to be close to the sea. One nice thing about staying with inlaws is they are right on the coast. One of their fields is on the cliff edge!
Love the quirkiness of that little town with all the colours and different buildings.
Posted by: Anne Marie | November 08, 2013 at 05:34 PM
Whitstable has a charm of it's own, a mix of old and new and I like it like that. It saved a trip to the seaside when we were told to go to Broadstairs by a friend, went to the recommended restaurant and then the waitress refused to seat us outside - despite their being free places - so we went to Whitstable instead and had a brilliant time, eating seafood, poking about and seeing Billy Childish going for a walk on the beach. It might not be pretty pretty but it has character.Herne Bay has a fabulously authentic ice cream parlour - no fakery there and a great little fish restaurant.
Posted by: Charlotte | November 08, 2013 at 04:23 PM
So glad you found eventually found the charm and quirkiness of Whitstable. My husband and I are about to buy a property there and everytime we drive down that cute High Street my heart skips a beat. There is a thriving craft community, plenty of inidivdual shops which the locals support and above all friendly chatty folk - I cannot wait!! If you get a chance to visit again please annouce beforehand then us locals (yes I'll be one of those!)can provide you with some hints and tips.
Posted by: Hazel O'Boyoe | November 08, 2013 at 03:20 PM
Funny how that can happen- a place you think you hate from first sight turns completely the other way! When somewhere looks that good in the rain, just think of it in the sunshine...no chance of sun today though...
Posted by: Kate | November 08, 2013 at 02:52 PM