It's a wonderful thing to occasionally take off on a short jolly away from home, something a little last minute which transports you away from routine and grants you some concentrated family time. We did just such a thing last week, decided quite spontaneously to get ourselves away and enjoy a couple of days at the coast.
When we used to live in York, we went to this part of the North Yorkshire Coast quite often as it wasn't too far to travel. Now we've moved 40 miles to the west, it's just a little too far away for day trips, and I can't tell you how much I've missed this coastline. Robin Hoods bay, Whitby, Sandsend, Runswick Bay, Staithes...we know these places well and have many layers of sweet memories attached to them.
We stayed in Whitby this time, mainly due to the fact that there is an amazing Youth Hostel there which made it an affordable way for the five of us to spend the night. Finding a family room for five in a hotel/B&B isn't easy and is often very expensive, so hosteling provides the perfect solution. Of course, if it had been Spring/Summer we would have taken Connievan which is another perfect family solution, but we are not quite hardy enough to camp out in Winter.
Whitby is probably most well known for it's connections to the novel Dracula, as Bram Stoker was heavily inspired by the place and wrote part of his novel whilst staying in Whitby. On the back of that, you do come across some rather wacky people wandering around the town, and there is quite a strong Gothic flavour to to many of the shops. But the gothic thing does weirdly go hand in hand with the traditional British Seaside vibe here (think fish and chips, souvenir shops and candyfloss sitting next door to the "Dracula Experience"). Whitby is also a traditional fishing harbour with centuries of history in the beautiful buildings and ancient streets. It all adds up to a charming, bustling old seaside town with lots of atmosphere and some major quirks.
We had no idea what the weather was going to do, best not to think about it too much. We had a fair idea it would be very cold and we were really hoping for it not to rain/hail/sleet/snow on us. It did indeed stay dry (despite a couple of snow flurries) and as expected it was absolutely stonkin' freezing! It was the sort of cold which makes you want to screw your face up tight as you walk.
But walk we did....down the 199 steps from the top of the cliff where the hostel and abbey are situated, along the narrow cobbled streets of the old town, over the bridge and around the harbour we went. Then out along the pier....brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr it was bitterly cold along here, a biting wind whipping in from the grey north sea. I loved it. I loved the sound of the seagulls and the waves, loved breathing in great gusts of fresh, bracing sea air, loved being out and about with my family. I have to tell you the others did not share my enthusiasm. They endured the walk, but oh they complained and moaned! It's too cold! It's freeeeeeeezing! I'm hungry! When can we go back?! They couldn't wait to about turn and head back to the old town, to one of our favourite pubs for a bite to eat and a warm up.
The Duke of York pub is old, cosy, friendly and atmospheric with amazing views out across the harbour.
We managed to find a table right next to one of the picture windows and enjoyed a superbly cooked early dinner (the local fish in here is delicious and vast, so big it falls off the side of the plate). The Little People enjoyed their food, but truthfully they couldn't wait to get back to the hostel. It's amazing how the promise of bunk beds to play/sleep in can cause so much happiness and excitement (even Little Man was looking forward to going to bed in his Top Bunk).
So nicely warmed up and full of good food, we made our way slowly back up the 199 steps just as darkness was falling.
Back at the hostel, the atmosphere was relaxed and friendly. There was a sizeable Lounge for guests to use, as well as a large self catering kitchen/diner. But best of all there was a Games Room, complete with table football and a pool table. The Little People instantly made friends and the games commenced. It was lovely to watch them so at ease with other children, they are quite confident Little People and happily take most things in their stride. J and I drank beer (the hostel is licenced, oh yeah!) and I crocheted half a daffodil.
We are lucky with Little B in that he can very easily be persuaded out of routine and will happily stay up long into the night if you allow him the freedom to do so. When we stay in Connievan, we learnt the hard way that it is foolish to try and expect him to go to sleep before anyone else. It just does not happen. So when we are away from home we tend to stay up until around 9.30pm, then all go to bed at the same time. It means an early night for J and I, but that's ok as we are an early to rise family. And besides, after all that bracing sea air, good food and beer, I was more than ready to collapse into my bottom bunk.
I tried to take a few pictures of our room to show you, but I'm afraid they didn't come out too well. It was great value for money, and very warm and comfy. Our family room consisted of three bunk beds, a few chairs and some storage cupboards. All the bedding is provided, but you have to make up the beds yourself when you arrive (each bed comes with a freshly laundered, pristine cotton sheet, duvet cover and pillowcase) and strip them off again when you leave. This was the first time we had our own en suite bathroom as we've always had to share a bathroom in other hostels we've stayed at, so it felt quite luxurious in a basic kind of a way.
If you've ever stayed in hostels, you will no doubt know about the breakfasts, they are legendary. Amazing food, and lots of it, for very little money. A great way to start the day. After breakfast, there was only one thing to do......
....pack up and head for the beach. The tide was out and the beach was wide, expansive and practically deserted with just a few hardy dog walkers keeping us company.
I went with Little B down to the waters edge and we paddled along together in the shallows. Then it was back up onto the damp sand to search for sea glass and beach treasures.
It was still very cold, but somehow not quite as raw as it had been the day before. The Little People were much happier and didn't complain once, it was lovely just pootling about with them. Eventually we left the beach to come back up to the promenade and it was time to move on. We said our goodbyes to Whitby and drove further down the coast to my favourite of all places.....
....Robin Hoods Bay. The last time I was here was just over four years ago, on my 40th Birthday. I remember it well and the memories remain fresh and intact (mainly thanks to my blog, such a terrific memory-keeping tool).
I just love it here, it's a very special place with great atmosphere and oodles of charm. You can't drive or park in the village, so cars get left at the top and there is a steep walk down.
There are some beautiful little wiggly, windy streets lined with ancient cottages.
A few shops, and an especially good cafe that we always visit here called Swell. The coffee and homemade cakes are scrummy, and on this very cold winters morning, it was deliciously warm and inviting inside. I treated the Little People to a mug each of luxurious hot chocolate topped with a mountain of whipped cream and marshmallows. Payment for the lack of whinging in the Extreme Cold of the morning's beaching. They were suitably grateful and we all enjoyed our Swell time very much.
I never want to leave the sea when I am there, I feel an almost physical pull to stay. It's so strong that I often feel very surprised that I have managed to settle and make my home inland. How odd, why on earth do I not live near the sea?! I fantasize about one day living by the sea. Sigh. I don't feel quite so bad about being home this time cos I know that in five weeks I'll be in Dorset for our Easter break, so the sea isn't that far away really. Just five more weeks to go.
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Am Stephen from Preston.my mother was born in wonderful whitby and as a little girl use to live at the foot house of the steps when sadly went to the higher side of life in April 2011.I made a stone rockery with her Leeds United things around opposite the abbey. Every opportunity I get I always come back to wonderful whitby.and highly recommend to anyone else to go to the best seaside resort town in Britain.it's my mum's wonderful whitby.
Posted by: stephen Geoffrey hughes | January 26, 2015 at 12:24 AM
So nice to see these places through your eyes again. In may this year me and my boyfriend went to yorkshire for a meeting with facebookfriends we got to know in a photogroup. 2of them are from Yorkshire and they took us to see a lot of nice places. I was so happy seeing all of them because I had wanted to go for such a long time.
The last days we spent in York on our own but right before that we had 2 days in Whitby an Robin Hood's bay. Our hosts also love it there. And it really was a great experience for us too.
It was great to read about it again here today :)
Posted by: An Valenteyn | August 07, 2014 at 09:47 AM
Oh what memories looking at your photos. I grew up in Harrogate and summer hols each August were always on the East Coast. I now live in Australia (Melbourne) but have been back many times and always visit Whitby, Robin Hood's Bay and Brid. I've just discovered your Blog and am just LOVING the colours you use, keep it all coming.
Posted by: Judith | March 13, 2013 at 12:16 PM
"a steep walk down" is a bit of an understatement !
visited when i was 4 months pregnant and my OH had to practically drag me back up the hill ha ha
Beautiful though
Posted by: kerry | March 07, 2013 at 07:28 PM
Ooh, thank you for this post. Your enthusiastic words and gorgeous pictures have reminded me of our own wonderful visit to Whitby and Robin Hoods Bay a couple of years ago.
Posted by: Handmade in Israel | March 04, 2013 at 08:55 PM
Hi Lucy! I've just written up my post about our trip to Whitby - Hope you can have a look!
http://thedustyatticblog.blogspot.co.uk/
Thanks Ax
Posted by: Anna | March 04, 2013 at 10:24 AM
Gorgeous pics! I've been to Whitby just the once. As an Aussie, I'd say that Whitby is best known because of Captain Cook!
Posted by: Liz | March 02, 2013 at 08:21 PM
Beautiful pictures...wish I could blink myself into your part of the world and visit for awhile. I would arrive in my warm fannel pj's, robe and slippers, along with two cups of tea and lemon yogurt cake to share! Hot chocolate for the kids, storytime too, then watch you crochet. I need some lessons! Kitty from New Jersey USA :)
Posted by: Kitty | March 01, 2013 at 06:41 AM
Was feeling slightly depressed tonight so I thought I would nip into your blog to cheer me up with some bright colours and warmth your blog gives me. It totally lived up to expectations! and this post is fab.....although I live in Spain I do miss the N.Yorkshire coast and Whitby and Robin Hoods bay are 2 of my favourite places (Staithes being another).
Not been back to UK for nearly 4 years and it is nice to see these photos and I can go to bed and have nice dreams of the lovely times I had when I lived in Scarborough.
Posted by: Kate Dengra | February 28, 2013 at 09:53 PM
I've been to Whitby and think I actually went to the same pub as you. I remember clearly how the North Sea looked VERY different from the English Channel - It was dark and foreboding and looked very scary! I live in Brighton and the sea here is usually quite blue/green and very sparkly. You should definitely try to move to the seaside if you can; I've been here 18 years and it STILL feels like I live on holiday!
I love reading your blog; I'm not at all into bright colours like you are & prefer simpler palettes and using a lot of white around my colours to make them ping - but I still check your blog every day and recommend you to the people I teach crochet to. Keep up the good work; you're a brilliant resource & provide the most excellent tutorials. Even if I do have to mentally have to convert them into US terms!
Posted by: J Munro | February 28, 2013 at 06:19 PM
I feel like that about the ocean myself. Of course I grew up in Brazil and right in front of the beach every day.... It's hard to understand how we can go away from such beauty. It's a lovely place indeed. :)
Posted by: Taciana Simmons | February 28, 2013 at 07:01 AM
Such lovely pictures :) I know how you feel about the sea! I've been a beach girl all my life from living in Alexandria, Egypt on the beautiful Mediterranean to living on the east coast of the USA by the great Atlantic. Since I got married almost three and a half years ago i've lived inland and everyday I long for my home, the sea!
Posted by: may | February 28, 2013 at 03:34 AM
Whitby is a beautiful place I think it is what a seaside town should like on a postcard. I walked the West Highland Way a few years ago and we booked hostels to stay in I was very nervous as I'm quite fussy for accommodation but they were great places to stay in clean, friendly and better than some hotels that I have stayed in. I think people, certainly I know I did have a misconception about hostels but I would recommend them to anyone looking for a cheap break away
Posted by: Tracy Dixon | February 28, 2013 at 12:01 AM
Oh, I live way down here in Australia, and started reading along here sometime ago because I am another hook addict, and I love your work, but I do believe I have stayed in the very same youth Hostel in Whitby long ago! I loved it there. This post makes me want to come back.
(And I also believe Captain Cook left from Whitby, so it's a place of meaning for us Aussies.)
Posted by: Ali | February 27, 2013 at 10:39 PM
Oh to wander the beautiful streets and alleys of Whitby again. My Nan was born there, though since has moved away, and we went to stay there for a week with her. It was one of the most wonderful places I have ever been.
Posted by: Verity | February 27, 2013 at 08:49 PM
Hope you managed a visit to 'Bobbins' and its amazing yarns...and other things. it is in an old chapel just before the 199 steps. When my family were younger we used to send them up the 199 steps to count them...6 children always had different answers....so we sent them up again, a great February warm-up!
Hope you write a book soon, your blog is so rich with colour and inspiration, thanks so much.
Posted by: Marianne Richardson | February 27, 2013 at 06:44 PM
Thank you for sharing your experience. What a lovely place to visit. I can see why you are so drawn to the seaside. It is good for the soul.
Posted by: Cheryl | February 27, 2013 at 06:21 PM
There's another great hostel just down the road from Robin Hood Bay (next cove along) called 'Boggle Hole'. We had the run of the place a couple of years ago!
Posted by: Kate | February 27, 2013 at 06:15 PM
It all sounds so wonderful!! Reminds me of when I lived in the UK. I love those towns by the sea! Thanks for your wondeful post!
Posted by: Taylor | February 27, 2013 at 06:06 PM
I am reading this post in the middle of another Monster Snowstorm (I'm in Ontario, Canada). The photos and descriptions of your trip have completely changed my mood from whining to content. Thank you for this and all your other wonderful posts.
Posted by: Judith Solecki | February 27, 2013 at 05:31 PM
Thank you for the great vacation! I was in need of a little trip and I feel through your blog that I have been down to the Yorkshire seaside.
Posted by: annie | February 27, 2013 at 05:07 PM
we spent a week in Whitby last year and now I want to go back :) lovely!
Posted by: Rhianne | February 27, 2013 at 04:48 PM
Thank you for taking us on your little jaunt.
I've just taught a lady to crochet your teeny tiny flowers and introduced her to your blog - your admirers must be growing to vast numbers!
xx
Posted by: sew | February 27, 2013 at 04:30 PM
Lucy, I really enjoyed your 'postcards' from Whitby!
The next best thing to being there. xx
Posted by: Deborah | February 27, 2013 at 04:20 PM
We were in Whitby the week before last - it was only the second time I've been, and I loved it - I can't wait to go back. We stayed in the lighthouse cottage, just past the Abbey. Looks like you had a lovely time :)
Anna
thedustyatticblog.blogspot.co.uk
Posted by: Anna | February 27, 2013 at 03:59 PM