I came up with this simple idea for tin covers so that I had something watertight, flat-bottomed and pretty-pretty to stand my little plant pots in. However, these tins look soooo sweet wearing their crochet coats that I've been making a few more to have around the house. You know, it's always good to have a pretty little something to hold all those Small Things. Hair slides, loose change, buttons, sweets, they all benefit from a sweet little hooky home to live.
I started out using tuna tins (the tin on the right) as these were the perfect shape and height for my little pots. But I've since moved onto pineapple tins (the tin on the left), and have also got my beady eye on a rather large-but-shallow Treacle Sponge Pudding tin. Any tin will do really, this project is very adaptable.
A word of caution about using tins.....they can end up with a devilishly sharp inner edge if you are not careful. Fortunately my tin opener is very efficient and seems to open a tin cleanly and evenly with no jags, but please do take care.
Right, on with the hooky then......here's a little summary of the basic stitches, I'm writing using UK crochet terms ::
sl st [slip stitch] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, then through the loop on your hook.
dc [double crochet] :: insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (two loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US sc stitch)
htr [half treble]:: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all three loops on hook (note :: this is equivalent to the US hdc stitch)
When you make your slip knot to start, make sure you leave a decent length "tail end" as shown above. You'll be using this to sew up with, and there's nothing worse than fighting with a too-short end.
You need to make a foundation chain to fit snuggly around your tin. Remember that crochet stretches, so aim to make it on the snug side. For my tuna tin, I used a dk weight cotton yarn on a 3.5mm hook, and made a starting chain of 46+1 for turning.
For the first row, begin in the 2nd chain from the hook and work a row of double crochet.
When you get to the end of the row, bend the crochet round and make a slip stitch into the first chain to join the row and form a ring. Fasten off (as above)
Before you go any further, you'll need to join up the foundation chain. Using a darning needle, thread the long tail end of yarn that you left when starting the chain, and use this to make a few stitches to join the ring completely.
It should now look like a crocheted bracelet, as shown above.
NOTE :: For all subsequent rows, you'll be working out of BACK LOOPS ONLY and you'll be working all rows with the right side facing you, so no turning of the work.
Row 2 :: Insert hook through the back loop of the first stitch, draw through a loop from the new colour yarn and chain 1 (as above). I've found there's no need to knot the yarn ends together, just hold onto the end of the new yarn as you pull it through to stop it slipping and create the first stitch.
You'll be working a row of double crochet, back loops only.
Remember to hold both tail ends horizontally along the top of your stitches as you work, passing the hook underneath them (as above). This effectively "traps" the ends in as you work, meaning no tedious darning in, yaayyy!!!
Do this for about 8 or 10 stitches, then you can go back and snip the ends off at the end.
Work you way to the end, then join the round by making a slip stitch into the very first chain you made, see where I've put my needle?
Fasten off. You should now have the beginnings of a neat ring.
All you have to do now is to keep adding more rows until you reach the height of your tin.
You can make each row a different colour, or you can work two rows to each colour if you prefer. If you are keeping the same colour as the previous row, no need to fasten off between rows. Simply make a slip stitch as normal to close the round, then chain 1 and go straight into working the subsequent row (as above).
I found that it's best to make the cover ever so slightly taller than the tin itself. For my tuna tins, I made 8 or 9 rows, then went on to the edging.
:: SCALLOP EDGING ::
For the scallop edging, first make a row of dc (the pink row above). Join it with a slip stitch as normal but do not fasten off.
Skip 1 stitch, then make 4 htr's into the next stitch (as above).
Skip 1 stitch, then slip stitch into the next stitch. Scallop made.
Skip 1 stitch, 4htr's into next stitch, skip 1 stitch, slip stitch into next stitch.
Repeat this pattern all the way round till you get back to where you started. Fasten off.
:: BEADED EDGING ::
Now I'm going to tell you about making a sweet little beaded edging. Such fun!!
First you need to get some beads. They need to have a big enough hole to be threaded directly onto the yarn. You might find it easier to thread them if you wrap a small bit of sellotape around the end of the yarn first.
You need to thread all your beads on at once, in the order you'll be crocheting them in. Please make sure you thread enough (if in doubt, put a few extra ones on!). Some basic mathematics are needed here, I'll try and keep it simple. I had 46 stitches in my rows, so I could either add a bead every two stitches (23 beads needed) or every three stitches (15 beads needed with an odd stitch left over).
Once you've threaded all your beads, push them right down the length of yarn as you won't be needing them for a bit. They just need to sit there waiting.
Use the beaded yarn to crochet a normal row of dc (just ignore the beads at this point, push them way down so they don't get in the way). Close the round with a sl st as usual, then chain 1 and TURN THE WORK.
You'll be working this beady row from the WRONG SIDE, as above. Work in the Front Loops Only (ie the loops of the stitches that are nearest to you as you look at the Wrong Side of the work).
For this example, I'm spacing the beads with 2 stitches between. So work 1 dc in the first 2 stitches (as above)
Now pull the first bead down the yarn until it reaches the crochet. Work 1 dc into the very next stitch (don't skip any stitches), making sure you yarn-over on the far side of the bead (as above)
See how the first bead is kept in place? Clever eh?! Now work 1 dc into the next stitch.
To recap :: you worked dc twice, then pulled the bead into place, then did dc twice again (4 stitches in total, with a bead in the middle). That's basically the Beady Method.
So keep going :: pull a bead into position, then work 1 dc into the next 2 stitches. Pull a bead down, then dc twice. Easy? Yeah!!
See how it's looking from the Right Side? A neat row of evenly spaced, hooky beads is forming. Lovely!
If you counted right, you should have enough beads to get you all the way round with even spaces between. Finally, make a slip stitch into the first chain and fasten off.
Darn in the end and................................
Ta-dah!!! One sweet little beady-edged tin cover.
Now you've got the basics, you can go for it. Unfold your Creative Wings and fly, fly, fly.
You can find my Tin Ta-dah post here.
Pattern for Teeny Tiny Flowers (and leaves) can be found here.
Pattern for Little Picot Flowers can be found here.
Please do let me know how you get on? And remember we'd love to all see what you come up with so it'd be fabulous if you could add some pics to the Attic24 Inspired Flickr group here.
Have lots of tinny, hooky fun my lovelies!
All my tutorials are created for you to use and enjoy for free, I absolutely love making them and spreading the Hooky Love. But as I'm sure you can appreciate, they take a lot of time and energy to create. Absolutely ooodles of it. So if you would like to support what I do here in the Attic you can make a small donation......
xx Thank you so much as always for your support and hooky love, it's very, very much appreciated. Wishing you many happy, blissful hours of joy with hook and yarn xx