Time by the Sea

On Friday, after two and a half hours of frantic emergency housework (in preparation for my in-laws coming to stay) followed by one and a half hours of gentle driving, J and I arrived at the sea. This was a trip that had been booked and planned many months ago, a trip concocted by me in the midst of a very weary and busy summer period when I was feeling very much in need of a break. Just the knowledge of having these few days waiting patiently for me on the other side of Yarndale has been wonderful, sometimes I think the mere anticipation can be almost as good as the actual thing itself.

This trip was pretty much a repeat of the few days we spent away at this time last year - I've just looked back through my bloggy archives but sadly it seems like I just didn't get around to telling you about it last year. No matter, like I say, the two weekends were very similar.  This was to be a precious child-free time for J and I to spend together, a few days beside the sea in gentle recognition of our wedding anniversary at the very end of September (16 years this year), and my birthday which comes in mid October (tomorrow in fact, and that'll be 49 years for me on this planet). Around this time of year I always experience a driving desire to be beside the sea, maybe you might remember a few of our past October trips to Robin Hoods Bay (here and here)? The pull is so strong that I feel almost powerless to resist it, and luckily for me, J knows my ways well by now and is happy to let me have my way.

So last year and this, we went to the North East coast and stayed in a quirky little hotel in Saltburn-by-the-Sea. The hotel is perched high up on the cliff side (you can just see it on the left of the photo above), with uninterrupted sea views which made my heart speed up a notch.

Arriving up there on the side of the cliff and taking in the familiar sea view made me feel all kinds of happy. I felt like I was breathing out properly and able to relax for the first time in ages. Precious indeed. 

We'd decided before we arrived that we would do a short walk on Friday afternoon before settling ourselves into the hotel. I just couldn't wait to stride out along the cliffs - coastal walking is my very best favourite kind of walking. So after pottering a little way along the sea front, we quickly began to climb up and up....

....to join the Cleveland Way coastal path. The Cleveland Way is one of the Uk's National Trails and is 109 miles in length. I would dearly love to walk the entire trail one day (it's on my personal bucket list), but I am more than happy to enjoy little snippets of it whenever I get the chance. 

This walk was just a short 4.5 mile circular route -  a couple miles along the coast, then back inland a little way to return to Saltburn. It was windy on Friday, and the sound of the waves below us was noisy and joyful. I absolutely love love love to have the sound of the sea filling my ears, it makes me so happy.

I had read about this sculpture before we did the walk, but coming across it in real life was still unexpected somehow. It was larger than I thought it would be (around 5 ft tall) and managed to look so at home and so out of place at the same time.

This steel "charm bracelet" was designed and made by artist Richard Farrington around twenty years ago, and I love it very much. The dangling charms (which tell stories of local folklore) clank gently in the wind and the whole thing is just so simple and uncomplicated. There is a wooden bench close by, so it makes for a sweet place to stop and take a breather and ponder the delights of all things coastal. 

The return part of the walk involves a steep climb up a blinkin' great hillock, with a trig point on the top where you can collapse and gasp noisily for the breath that has left your body during the assent. Climbing steep hills is exhilarating, no doubt about it, and I do quite enjoy the challenge to my poor weary, out of shape body. 

Returning down to the flatness of sea level was rather lovely after all that exertion.

We took a stroll out along the old pier as the sea pounded onto the shore beneath our feet.

The sea at Saltburn is ever so wavy, and as a result it's a place where surfers come to well, to surf. I am fascinated by people who choose to do this kind of thing for fun, honestly, I am in awe. You couldn't pay me enough to throw myself into all that cold, frothing water, it just would never, ever happen. I truly adore being by the sea, and occasionally I can be convinced to ride on top of it in a boat, but I am most definitely not someone who enjoys being inside the stuff. I might paddle my toes on warm sunny days, but full body immersion?? Nope, never. And on a completely different note, aren't those beach huts beautiful? Bright stripy colours - just exactly my thing. 

 After our walk, I tucked my camera away and put myself thoroughly in the moment. We had a wonderful time, J and I. We enjoyed good food followed by a few cheeky cocktails in a local bar with a view right out over the sea. When it got dark and the tiredness set in, we took ourselves slowly back up to our hotel (oh so many steps!) to loaf about and indulge in being away from home and in a hotel no less. We don't get to experience hotels all that often, so it feels like quite a luxury really. We were able to open our window wide and listen to the sound of the sea below, which pleased me hugely. 

The following day (Saturday), following an almighty Full English breakfast, we set out to walk a little more of the Cleveland Way. This time we were a bit further down the coast, starting out at one of my most favourite little coastal places - Staithes. 

I've written about this village before, and I absolutely love it here. It's very charming and atmospheric, a rustic, ancient jumble of higgledy-piggledy cottages which tumble down the steep hillside to the sea.

Walking down through the little lanes is an absolute delight, and I am entranced each and every time I visit. There is just something about Staithes which draws me in and makes me not want to leave. We didn't stay as long as I'd have liked here, as J was keen to get walking - I could have spent hours just pottering around taking photos and soaking it all in...but that'll wait for another time....

We were soon climbing back up again and leaving Staithes behind (can you see the dog in the window? Aww!) By golly, the roads and paths along this coastline are seriously steep, and it takes much physical effort to get yourself up 'em. I was huffing and puffing like a steam train....

....but the sea views from high up on the cliffs are spectacular and so worth the effort.

After a few miles we came to another favourite little place - Runswick Bay. As with Staithes,  I've written about this place before when we visited two years ago, and it was really lovely to be back. The walking route we were following didn't need us to descend the mega-steep road down to sea level, but at this point I suddenly really needed a pee, and possibly a hot frothy coffee too. So I twisted J's arm and we set about tackling the half mile descent - can you see in the above photo, the pavement on the right is so steep that it's been made into steps? Yeah, hold that thought while we go and pootle around at the bottom.......

....it's so lovely down at Runswick Bay, even on a very grey October day when the clouds decided to let loose the rain they'd been carrying over our heads all morning. 

Lucky for us, there is a very cute little cafe right down at the edge of the beach, and we managed to squeeze into the corner by the window to enjoy a really surprisingly good coffee with a sea view while we waited for the rain to ease up. 

Now, remember that thought I asked you to hold, the one that contained the half-a-mile of steeply stepped pavement? HALF A MILE!!! It's a shed-load of steps, way more than any person should have to cope with on a drizzly Saturday morning with a belly full of hotel breakfast and frothy coffee. But.......we made it back up to the top, heart pounding, legs screaming and really the entirety of my body feeling on the brink of collapse. Ahh.....you gotta love coastal walking, so pleasurable, so relaxing!! Haha!!

After Runswick Bay, the route began to curve inland away from the sea, and much of the walking was around very green, lush farmland.

At one point we rounded a bend in the track only to come face to face with a whole herd of dairy cows slowly ambling their way back to the farm for milking. There was no way I could make myself walk through the herd (I admit I am a little fearful of these hefty big farm animals in large numbers), so we opted to stand at a respectful distance and allow them to pass through.

Annnndddddd......twenty minutes and a gazillion milk-filled cows later, the path was finally clear for us to carry on our walk.

The last part of the walk was through a really lovely little bit of woodland - ooodles of trees growing very close together made it very shady and very green beneath the canopy. It was ever so tranquil and quiet, and when we stood still and listened carefully we could hear the actual sound of leaves dropping to the ground, how cool is that?

Although the trees are still looking pretty green, Autumn has definitely arrived here in Yorkshire.

I think this whole walk was around 7 or 8 miles in total and I loved every bit of it (with the exception of being breathed on at very close quarters by a huge nosy cow). Even the rather grueling climbs were exhilarating and although we arrived back at the car feeling completely exhausted, it was at least a sound, satisfied kind of exhaustion that I felt right down inside my soul. So so good.

Back at the hotel, and we had some time to just relax before dinner. Complete relaxation isn't something easily achieved during the day at home when you have children, so it does feel more than a little bit special when the opportunity presents itself. The very idea of just kicking off my boots and flopping out on the bed for the pure pleasure of just being horizontal for a while seemed suddenly very decadent and luxurious. Oh, the joy!

Our hotel room had these huuuuuuge floor to ceiling windows, the above photo only show the top half of them.  I spent a while just laid on my back on the comfy bed, watching the clouds shift across the sky. It was so soothing, enjoying such a simple thing, with no interruptions and nobody requesting anything of me. It was almost as if time stood still for a while. J made us a cup of and we sat on the bed eating crumbly digestive biscuits and insanely good truffle chocolates, and all was so very happy in my little world right then.

After a bit I noticed the light had quite dramatically changed, so I dashed outside to take in the view.....

It was around 6pm, in that short passage of time where day is closing and evening just beginning.

The landscape looked so beautiful and rather dramatic with those deep dark rain clouds still overhead from earlier and the low slanting early evening sun making everything glow golden.

Our evening was rather blissful - a very delicious meal in the hotel restaurant, which was a big airy conservatory filled with plants and twinkling fairy lights. Then a long soak in a hot, deep bubble bath before climbing into bed to watch a film. I could hardly keep my eyes open, what with all the fresh sea air and exercise from the day, combined with the food, wine and then the scented bubble bath, gosh I struggled to stay awake beyond 9pm. But it was the best kind of feeling, one of total relaxation and a deep kind of happiness and gratitude.

We enjoyed two nights away, which in reality is only forty eight hours but it was plenty enough to really feel the benefits of a complete break from routine. On Sunday morning we had breakfast early, then set out to walk to the the giant charm bracelet on the cliffs again - sounds funny to say that doesn't it?! It was fabulous to take in those huge gulps of fresh sea air before we had to turn our back on the coast and set off back to our inland home.

Such a wonderful forty eight hours, and still very fresh in my memory (and my leg muscles) too.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

 

 

 

Comments

[brendaintheboro]

Lucy , you were in my neck of the woods. I hope you got to see Ripping Yarns , a lovely little wool shop . I think someone in there the other day was making your moorland blanket

[jo]

So excited - this is my "neck of the woods" I am at this beach - just along from Saltburn - nearly every weekend. Glad you enjoyed. x

[Helen Welsh]

Happy birthday Lucy!! So glad you and your hubbie had this opportunity to get away for a little break. There is nothing quite like being by the sea to recharge your batteries, no matter the weather. In many ways I prefer those grey blustery days as it is more exhilarating walking and the sound of those crashing waves is just magic compared to the calmer days! Have a great week,
Helen x

[Christine]

Happy Birthday Lucy what a lovely blog post x

[eimear greaney]

love those photos of the gloaming - and the rest. looks glorious

[sew]

Happy Birthday dear Lucy. Happy Birthday to you.........

x♥x

[Hannelore Farrell]

Happy Anniversary to you and J and Happy Birthday to you Lucy! I'm so glad you got to get away for a couple of days. Your description of where you are and what you're seeing makes me feel like I'm right there. You have such a talent for writing Lucy. Thanks for bringing us along and able so see your beautiful pictures, it must have been a wonderful trip. Hanna from New Orleans.

[Inge]

Happy birthday Lucy!

[Linne]

Lucy, thanks for this wonderful post. First, Happy Anniversary and Birthday to you (one of my sisters shares your birthday, but 12 years older).

I lived by the sea as a toddler (unfortunately, I can't remember that time, but it sure imprinted on me). From age 19 I spent most of the next 33 years on Vancouer Island and South Pender Island (in the Gulf Islands of BC). I'm well inland now, but it's part of my soul forever. Your post brought back so many good memories! I could see, hear, smell, even taste the air. Wonderful! I'd have to take those climbs a bit slowly now (until I'm back in shape again), but I'd still love to visit anywhere that is so evocative of my earlier life. Thanks for all the photos, too. I'm glad that you had that time, especially after the work of Yarndale. Have a wonderful year, Lucy. Hugs from Canada ~ Linne

[Janette Surtees]

Sounds like a refreshing, relaxing yet energetic weekend. Happy Birthday and anniversary. I can hear the sound of the sea in my mind as you write. Lovely.

[Laura Gabriela Martin Del Campo Sescosse]

Have a wonderfull birthday, Lucy!

[RuralTN]

Happy anniversary and happy birthday.

[Teresa Kasner]

*H*A*P*P*Y* * *A*N*N*I*V*E*R*S*A*R*Y*!*!* and *H*A*P*P*Y* * *B*I*R*T*H*D*A*Y*!*!*!* to you, Miss Lucy! I totally loved hearing about your wonderful 48 hours with your husband. We leave in 4 days for 10 days by the Pacific Ocean in our 32 foot caravan! I am so looking forward to our time there, just the 2 of us. ((hugs)), Teresa :-)

[fiona lake]

Totally glorious! I visited the same places when I was home visiting my parents this summer. Your post has reminded me of special times.

[Anne.skene]

Happy birthday. Happy anniversary celebration with your weekend away.
I do love visiting the sea when I come up north to visit my daughter, son in law and his family. Especially when it is Yarndale as well!
x x x

[Willy Beerepoot]

A happy birthday,LucyI
I love to follow your blog,the photos are beautiful! Willy

[Shirley Flavell]

Oh bliss. Beautifully told and could feel every emotion Lucy.Wonderful, beautiful photos/scenery.Happy birthday and belated wedding anniversary.

[Louise]

Happy Anniversary and Happy Birthday! (Mine wss last week so we're both creative librans!)
How wonderful and soul-enriching to have time away with your J!

[Lisa]

I hope you have a lovely birthday! Thank you for all your wonderful blog posts and crochet - as well as being inspirational craft-wise, your interesting and beautiful posts always make me smile :-)

[Liizzy Dillingham]

Bequtifully, happily, written. Thank you for taking us along.

lizzy at gone to the beach....

[Linda Bowden]

Happy Birthday and Happy Anniversary. Thank you so much for sharing. Now on my Bucket List.

[Susan Smith]

Awww Lucy, the memories you've just brought back for me is tugging at my heart again. Last year I visited Saltburn for the first time and loved it. Didn't see the charm bracelet though. Your walk sounds absolutely wonderful. When in UK we usually visit Whitby, Robin Hoods Bay & Staithes and I find all of them just so beautiful. Happy birthday for tomorrow & have a lovely day. Ooh, next year is a big "0"!!!! So is my hubby's, but we are a little more advanced than you (lol). Have a wonderful day, take care & huggles.

[Ginney]

I love readying your blog Lucy. Your pictures today were absolutely wonderful. I would love to go on that walk along the sea.

[NORA McGRANN]

WONDERFUL, Lucy! and richly deserved....

Thanks as ever for sharing..xx

[Margaret Simpson]

Thank you Lucky for the beautiful blog and stunning photo's. 😊🇦🇺