Whitby in Winter

It's a wonderful thing to occasionally take off on a short jolly away from home, something a little last minute which transports you away from routine and grants you some concentrated family time. We did just such a thing last week, decided quite spontaneously to get ourselves away and enjoy a couple of days at the coast.

When we used to live in York, we went to this part of the North Yorkshire Coast quite often as it wasn't too far to travel. Now we've moved 40 miles to the west, it's just a little too far away for day trips, and I can't tell you how much I've missed this coastline. Robin Hoods bay, Whitby, Sandsend, Runswick Bay, Staithes...we know these places well and have many layers of sweet memories attached to them.

We stayed in Whitby this time, mainly due to the fact that there is an amazing Youth Hostel there which made it an affordable way for the five of us to spend the night. Finding a family room for five in a hotel/B&B isn't easy and is often very expensive, so hosteling provides the perfect solution. Of course, if it had been Spring/Summer we would have taken Connievan which is another perfect family solution, but we are not quite hardy enough to camp out in Winter.

Whitby is probably most well known for it's connections to the novel Dracula, as Bram Stoker was heavily inspired by the place and wrote part of his novel whilst staying in Whitby. On the back of that, you do come across some rather wacky people wandering around the town, and there is quite a strong Gothic flavour to to many of the shops. But the gothic thing does weirdly go hand in hand with the traditional British Seaside vibe here (think fish and chips, souvenir shops and candyfloss sitting next door to the "Dracula Experience"). Whitby is also a traditional fishing harbour with centuries of history in the beautiful buildings and ancient streets. It all adds up to a charming, bustling old seaside town with lots of atmosphere and some major quirks.

We had no idea what the weather was going to do, best not to think about it too much. We had a fair idea it would be very cold and we were really hoping for it not to rain/hail/sleet/snow on us. It did indeed stay dry (despite a couple of snow flurries) and as expected it was absolutely stonkin' freezing! It was the sort of cold which makes you want to screw your face up tight as you walk.

But walk we did....down the 199 steps from the top of the cliff where the hostel and abbey are situated, along the narrow cobbled streets of the old town, over the bridge and around the harbour we went. Then out along the pier....brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr it was bitterly cold along here, a biting wind whipping in from the grey north sea. I loved it. I loved the sound of the seagulls and the waves, loved breathing in great gusts of fresh, bracing sea air, loved being out and about with my family. I have to tell you the others did not share my enthusiasm. They endured the walk, but oh they complained and moaned! It's too cold! It's freeeeeeeezing! I'm hungry! When can we go back?! They couldn't wait to about turn and head back to the old town, to one of our favourite pubs for a bite to eat and a warm up.

The Duke of York pub is old, cosy, friendly and atmospheric with amazing views out across the harbour.

We managed to find a table right next to one of the picture windows and enjoyed a superbly cooked early dinner (the local fish in here is delicious and vast, so big it falls off the side of the plate). The Little People enjoyed their food, but truthfully they couldn't wait to get back to the hostel. It's amazing how the promise of bunk beds to play/sleep in can cause so much happiness and excitement (even Little Man was looking forward to going to bed in his Top Bunk).

So nicely warmed up and full of good food, we made our way slowly back up the 199 steps just as darkness was falling.

Back at the hostel, the atmosphere was relaxed and friendly. There was a sizeable Lounge for guests to use, as well as a large self catering kitchen/diner. But best of all there was a Games Room, complete with table football and a pool table. The Little People instantly made friends and the games commenced. It was lovely to watch them so at ease with other children, they are quite confident Little People and happily take most things in their stride. J and I drank beer (the hostel is licenced, oh yeah!) and I crocheted half a daffodil.

We are lucky with Little B in that he can very easily be persuaded out of routine and will happily stay up long into the night if you allow him the freedom to do so. When we stay in Connievan, we learnt the hard way that it is foolish to try and expect him to go to sleep before anyone else. It just does not happen. So when we are away from home we tend to stay up until around 9.30pm, then all go to bed at the same time. It means an early night for J and I, but that's ok as we are an early to rise family. And besides, after all that bracing sea air, good food and beer, I was more than ready to collapse into my bottom bunk.

I tried to take a few pictures of our room to show you, but I'm afraid they didn't come out too well. It was great value for money, and very warm and comfy. Our family room consisted of three bunk beds, a few chairs and some storage cupboards. All the bedding is provided, but you have to make up the beds yourself when you arrive (each bed comes with a freshly laundered, pristine cotton sheet, duvet cover and pillowcase) and strip them off again when you leave. This was the first time we had our own en suite bathroom as we've  always had to share a bathroom in other hostels we've stayed at, so it felt quite luxurious in a basic kind of a way.

If you've ever stayed in hostels, you will no doubt know about the breakfasts, they are legendary. Amazing food, and lots of it, for very little money. A great way to start the day. After breakfast, there was only one thing to do......

....pack up and head for the beach. The tide was out and the beach was wide, expansive and practically deserted with just a few hardy dog walkers keeping us company.

I went with Little B down to the waters edge and we paddled along together in the shallows. Then it was back up onto the damp sand to search for sea glass and beach treasures.

It was still very cold, but somehow not quite as raw as it had been the day before. The Little People were much happier and didn't complain once, it was lovely just pootling about with them. Eventually we left the beach to come back up to the promenade and it was time to move on. We said our goodbyes to Whitby and drove further down the coast to my favourite of all places.....

....Robin Hoods Bay. The last time I was here was just over four years ago, on my 40th Birthday. I remember it well and the memories remain fresh and intact (mainly thanks to my blog, such a terrific memory-keeping tool).

I just love it here, it's a very special place with great atmosphere and oodles of charm. You can't drive or park in the village, so cars get left at the top and there is a steep walk down.

There are some beautiful little wiggly, windy streets lined with ancient cottages.

A few shops, and an especially good cafe that we always visit here called Swell. The coffee and homemade cakes are scrummy, and on this very cold winters morning, it was deliciously warm and inviting inside. I treated the Little People to a mug each of luxurious hot chocolate topped with a mountain of whipped cream and marshmallows. Payment for the lack of whinging in the Extreme Cold of the morning's beaching. They were suitably grateful and we all enjoyed our Swell time very much.

I never want to leave the sea when I am there, I feel an almost physical pull to stay. It's so strong that I often feel very surprised that I have managed to settle and make my home inland. How odd, why on earth do I not live near the sea?! I fantasize about one day living by the sea. Sigh. I don't feel quite so bad about being home this time cos I know that in five weeks I'll be in Dorset for our Easter break, so the sea isn't that far away really. Just five more weeks to go.

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Comments

[Linda]

What a lovely trip. We have never stayed in a hostel but it does look ideal for a family. We are lucky as we live by the sea.

[Bridget Wilkinson]

Fantastic Blog Lucy. I'm lucky enough to live in Whitby. I'd like to share this on my facebook Art page if that's ok

[Angela-Southern U.S.A.]

Oh lucy! What a wonderful winter get away.Thanks so much for sharing it with us,as I don't see in my near future of getting to visit such a lovely Country.

[Clare]

Picture postcard perfect, looks like a lovely part of the world, nothing like being by the sea even in winter. Thanks for sharing.

[Mrs Tiggywinkle]

You sound to have had a fantastic time. Robin Hoods Bay is one of my favourite places too.

[5ladybirdlane]

It often takes someone else photos to show me how lovely England is and how lucky I am to be from here. Ooh how I wish I was by the sea. It looks like you had a great time, roll on Easter for some warmer weather for your Dorset break!!! Sarah

[Michele]

Robin Hoods bay looks like a wonderful place...I'll put it on my list of places to visit now! I love the coast and am lucky enough to be near the coast in Suffolk, but love the hills further north!

[Patti]

As always, thank you for sharing xxxx I am finding myself waiting for each new part of your world.... as I love your trip to the sea... I so wish I were living across the ocean... what a beautiful place... Once you get back into your lovely crochet~world the time will fly... and Easter will be here!! ~~and you must get the Spring wreath started.. ;) ...your crocheting friend from Ohio xxx

[Lilli]

Lovely pictures...I LOVE Whitby! The last time we visited the east coast we stayed in Scarborough, but I like the idea of staying in the youth hostel - maybe next time :)

[Rhianon]

Lovely bracing blog - when the children are causing me too much stress I retreat to a comfy corner to revel in your panoramic blog - so relaxing - I just feel like I have had a 5 minute holiday - thank you!

[Kirsten]

Lovely pictures! They have a nice cosy feeling to them :)

[Joanne from Colorado]

Oh you're making me miss your part of the world again! Thank you for sharing this village with such wonderful pictures, and thank you again for inspiring me to make those hand warmers last year...I love them.

[Kate]

Whitby is lovely- bracing, but lovely.The North East coast is wonderful- the weather can be so hilariously awful that it almost makes a holiday there even better if snowed on/rained on and blown over/frozen. It is just as beautiful in Winter as Summer.

[lori]

you make an excellent tour guide lucy, and have me wishing dearly to someday visit this part of our beautiful world. so glad you had a wonderful time!

[Fiona]

Thanks for sharing your pictures of one of my fave places in the World. How funny that we both spent our 40th Birthday's in Robin Hoods Bay as well. Love it up there so much. We're hoping to be there again at the start of Sept for my 42nd! Can't wait! Fiona x

[Maria]

Thanks Lucy, with your photos and your stories make me live the good emotions, every time I seem to be traveling ... you have a very nice way to tell your daily life, a way that captures my imagination!

[Sara]

How lovely to enjoy the simplicity of family time together. We also have a favorite place to stay in the Scottish Borders. Its cheap and lacks anything remotely modern (apart from a tv and I can live with out that!)but even at 10 and 15 my two still want to return. So that our Easter trip...to the hills ( no sea but I do live on the NE coast!)

[ade quesada sanchez]

hola Lucy que hermoso todo lo que han vivido gracias a Dios. Eres muy buena para escribir parece una novela. Gracias por darnps tanto detalles que nos hacen conocer los lugares sin estar alli. MI NOMBRE ES ADE QUESADA vivo en COSTA RICA MI PUEBLO SE LLAMA PARAISO en CENTRO AMERICA. Estoy feliz de compartir con usted.

[Emily]

This trip looks so lovely.I am new to crochet and have been following your blog. Thank you so much. I live by the sea in Belfast....Belfast,Maine USA. I cannot believe you are 44! No way! You are awesome, a great writer,photographer,and an amazingly creative crafts person. (and a Mom with little ones!) WOW! Bravo! Thanks again for your inspiring work!

[martha]

This post has brought back many happy memories for me.
My Grandad lives in north yorkshire and I spent many a happy summer in Witby such a lovely town full of history.
I took the family there last year and it's just as I remembered it to be.
Lovely pictures thanks for the reminisce

[Caroline]

I can't thank you enough for that beautiful fantasy trip.

[Hannah Booden]

I love the piccies and the nostalgia I feel looking at them.

[Jo]

(Also) being from North Yorkshire I can't help but say that Whitby's North Yorkshire (good ol' Bridlington is in East Yorkshire), but it's so nice to see that it hadn't changed from when I was last up there 12 years ago. Did you take the kids to see the whale bones?

You just reminded me I definitely need to visit Robin Hood's Bay again, though. I did my Duke of Edinburgh on the Cleveland Way (roughly...), and stayed on a campsite on the hill overlooking the bay, and yet never ventured into the village. Still a regret, but you've just sparked my determination to go back, so thank you!

[Hen]

I admire you for braving the cold there, Luce, it's always freezing when we go and that's in October. No mention of fish 'n' chips?!
Hen x

[tammy]

Thank you for this post and for taking me away for a little while. It is snowing here in Iowa and I am very tired of it! I would love to be by the sea......